Pannier Hinges overhauled:

https://www.k100-forum.com/t5814-overhauling-pannier-hinges#65880

The Air Intakes got overhauled today. I was going to bin the box and do some throats up but after talking to a few people it seems performance suffers markedly when you change the intake configuration up so I will be keeping the standard setup - . . as ugly as it is :-(

The starter motor and the Alternator came back from the Auto electricians today

A rather hefty bill but they are fully overhauled:

Starter motor got new drive bush, + bearing (shagged), and brush holder ( also shagged - on its way out) Just the bearing for the starter motor was $76.00 and the brush holder was $54.00

The Alternator got new bearings ( @ $11.00 :-)

Not too bad when you consider that the originals did 110,000 ks and probably would have done many more so I am pretty sure these will out-live me

Remanufactured starter from Euro MotoElectrics for $99 + shipping. Seems like a bargain?
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-K-Denso-Starter-p/bmw-strk007r.htm

Yep. That would be a damn good price.

My problem with this is that importing anything to NZ from other countries has proved to be something of a hit and miss affair for me in the past. I have had a few packages go AWOL over the years and lost a fair bit of cash so now I just get stuff done locally

I did note this:
BMW-STRK007R
BMW List Price $435.44
Our Price $98.00

Plus shipping and currency conversion = around $180.00 to me - I am in New Zealand - still a real good price.

Thanks for the post :-)

Today I managed to source new HT leads and also managed to get the skinny 8mm hose clips for the air intake throats. The factory ones were crimped and munted upon removal.

Also I got new aftermarket swingarm bearings ( @ 50% of the price BM charge) and the old ones removed (apply heat)

Off topic but . . .A real blow to my home town today . . our local dealer here which used to sell BMW bikes had the dealership for them. Well . . today, I went to check out where my parts were after waiting a few weeks for the common item of Tank Badges, just to be told they could not tell when my order might arrive. I left, frustrated.

Upon further inquiry it looks like their BMW service Agents contract has been TERMINATED by BMW because they refuse to sell the BMW bikes, having taken on Triumph!

So now, for everything, I have to get it via mail from Auckland @ an extra $10.00 per order shipped or go up there (130ks away from me)

Looks like I will be writing a BIG list of ALL parts I need and get them to post me ONE order for everything and hope I dont have to order any more

Also, I got Air and oil filters priced today. No one, and I mean NO ONE carried any frams or k + n's

Gen articles are $56.00 air and 29 oil so I will be grabbing those ( for now)

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

motobins and motorworks rule....
http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K Series
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=2&NU=15&M=40

Have ordered the following today:

1 X Head Gasket
1 X Timing Chain Kit
3 x Oil filters
Gear Box Main shaft seal front
Choke Cable
Accelerator Cable
Clutch Cable
Rear park lamp Bulb
Rear Tail Light / Brake Bulb

I think the only other things I am going to be needing over and above this list will be valve guide seals and a few o'rings etc but will wait and see once the engine is stripped. I think I have pretty much renewed the whole machine by the the time its finished, with exception of the wiring loom, the Z box and other ignition box etc

Whats left ??

Ok,

• Braid the brake lines, I have 3 x sets of new pads to go in,
  
• I could renew the rotors but that can wait.
  
• Plugs and fluids go without saying.
  
• The gearbox I have to assume is good for another 100,000. I haven't seen any reports of premature failure,
  
• Aside from the final drive bearing and
  
• Overhauling the speedo (if I stay with it)
  
• I think that's about it
  

Suggestions welcome if I have missed anything :-)

thanks

Engine reconditioning starts when parts arrive and re-assembly proper follows completion of engine rebuild

Front Calipers have been dissasembled, cleaned, checked for wear, de surfaced and re-surfaced (silver now, not black any more) and are awaiting new internal o'rings prior to re-assembly. The line over the guard has been resurfaced (black to blend with the guard). Photos following when the front end is finished fitting

At the mo' the forks repainted/ new dust covers (discarding the gaitors after all) wheel repainted and new bearings fitted / new tyre/ valve stem / mudguard repainted / new head lamp / new indicators / handle bars repainted and new clutch cable are on)

Once the calipers are finished the painting process they will get fitted and then I will begin to lay the wiring loom in properly from the front end, the instument cluster ( grrrrrr , , . . . . this is stil *&^%@@# me off)

If you have Ryco filters over there, the Z418 (pretty sure thats the right number) fits, I use them and HiFlo. And cheap as chips.
But note the Oil filter tool doesnt fit properly, I use the 3 arm filter removal tool that fits on a rathchet, also cheap as chips and you can get 'em from any auto store
hope that helps.
cheers

andyb wrote:If you have Ryco filters over there, the Z418 (pretty sure thats the right number) fits, I use them and HiFlo. And cheap as chips.
But note the Oil filter tool doesnt fit properly, I use the 3 arm filter removal tool that fits on a rathchet, also cheap as chips and you can get 'em from any auto store
hope that helps.
cheers

It does help! thanks. Shame I already took delivery of 3 x gen parts :-( but will know now for next time . . thanks again ! :-)

We always used to use OEM BMW 318i oil filters, they fit, they work fine, around 1/3 the price of the bike filters from memory and the oil filter tool fits. We'd buy a slab of 6 from the car dealer and usually get a better price again (we had 3 bikes using the same filter, that made the bulk buy worthwhile)

Al

Sourced new O'rings for Brake Calipers (internal x 1 each) and new O'rings for injectors (4 x 2 ea) today

AL-58 wrote:We always used to use OEM BMW 318i oil filters, they fit, they work fine, around 1/3 the price of the bike filters from memory and the oil filter tool fits. We'd buy a slab of 6 from the car dealer and usually get a better price again (we had 3 bikes using the same filter, that made the bulk buy worthwhile)

Al

Nice! Thanks!. I'll keep that in mind :-)

I have been using the HiFlo 126 and they are good, meet factory specs and the filter tool fits. Oh year they are a gal finish so mo flakes of paint can come off them.

Hey bemade, what are the dimensions for the caliper "O" ring please?

blaKey wrote:Hey bemade, what are the dimensions for the caliper "O" ring please?

OEM measures: 6,6 x 1,8 mm.

blaKey wrote:Hey bemade, what are the dimensions for the caliper "O" ring please?

Thank you Inge for answering that as I do not know. Upon cracking the calipers open I simply took the old ones in as a sample and the man sized them up and sold me the new ones ;-)

I finished laying in the wiring loom below the tank today, along with the plastic sheilds that go around the steering head etc. I couldn't resist popping the tank and seat on just to get a feel for what the finished product is gonna look like. This is what I seen so far:



Still a LOOOONG way to go but I am loving every minute of this. Probably my last rebuild for at least a few years

Picked up the new Braided brake lines today and fitted them.

Front end is now complete with only the headlamp wiring and the ignition key way / instrument cluster left to do.

After MUCH deliberation and soul searching I have decided to keep the original Instrument cluster. This is mainly because of the amount of information the thing delivers. I will redesign the mounting bracket to seat it lower than standard as it sticks up way too far so I will get it to go as low as possible. It will probably still stick up but (IMO) better than replacing it altogether and I still have the option of some kind of shield as previously discussed in this thread

The ignition key way will get relocated and I am going to discard the handlebar cover which mounts it and and substitute that for an alloy plate if necessary

That is looking very nice indeed.
I don't blame you for putting the tank and seat on 'for a look'. Would have done the same myself.

I will be interested to see how the silver calipers look. Most folks tend to paint the lower forks black and so have black calipers. With the gold wheels it is looking pretty good.

Nice seat too. A good seat like that makes for a very nice finish.

Looks fantastic, superb, credit to ya. Love the gold wheels. mawhera
Rick

thanks. I worked on the instument cluster mount today and managed to knock approx 45mm off the height.



Looks a lot better than what it did but the clocks are a lot more vertical now than before . . .lol . . this will be interesting. Unfortunately the headlamp made it impossible to get the clocks any lower, unless I turn the headlamp brackets UPSIDE DOWN. Then the headlamp would be a lot lower and I could get the clocks down real low. Far from finished with the set up though. will play with it a bit and see what else eventuates

I do not know what you used to lower your cluster, but when I lowered mine I used some alum. square stock cut to length. Each piece was attached to the upper and lower threaded locations where the fairing bracket used to be. With the two pieces of stock attached I had an infinite choice in height of the cluster.
Have fun with your project.

frogy wrote:I do not know what you used to lower your cluster, but when I lowered mine I used some alum. square stock cut to length. Each piece was attached to the upper and lower threaded locations where the fairing bracket used to be. With the two pieces of stock attached I had an infinite choice in height of the cluster.
Have fun with your project.

Thanks for that. The problem is the cluster is stopped from going lower by the headlamp but lets just wait and see . . far from finished :-)

I found this photo of the last conversion I did, back in 1992.

It WAS an R100RS, 1979 model. and started out life as a stock standard vehicle but in big need of an absolute rebuild. All the paint was shot and the thing had been rapped around europe to the tune of around 400,000 MILES when it came in to my possession.

I know this is the wrong forum for this but I thought I'd post it anyways . . . just as a reminder of what customising is all about :-)

I took it, stripped it, reconditioned everything and put it back together the way i wanted it. Was a fantastic machine back then but now parts are just a headache for them .. prohibitively expensive

bemade wrote:I found this photo of the last conversion I did, back in 1992.

It WAS an R100RS, 1979 model. and started out life as a stock standard vehicle but in big need of an absolute rebuild. All the paint was shot and the thing had been rapped around europe to the tune of around 400,000 MILES when it came in to my possession.

I know this is the wrong forum for this but I thought I'd post it anyways . . . just as a reminder of what customising is all about :-)

I took it, stripped it, reconditioned everything and put it back together the way i wanted it. Was a fantastic machine back then but now parts are just a headache for them .. prohibitively expensive

Always nice to here about a save.

Front end is completed

Good work bemade.

What headlight holder did you use? From what bike?

Can you post a side-on shot please?

Headlamp hoders are from a Yamaha XS650 - as per this post:

bemade wrote:have managed to get some yamaha xs650 special headlamp ears. a lot better than what I had planned

They did need substantial modification though

They are 38mm - I needed 41.3mm dia so they got split to become an interference fit over the forks
The holes needed filling and redrilling, the flaps needed straightening flat and then the length needed trimming by about 15mm
Then they got re-chromed

Rather an expensive and lengthy exercise but probably the most difficult part of the total conversion

I have finally finished the:

• Gearbox resurfacing
  
• Rear Foot peg mounts
  
• ABS cylinder brackets (Powder coated)
  
• Rear Drive unit
  
• Rear Brake caliper
  
• Rear Brake pedal (brushed and clear coated)
  
• Gear selector lever (brushed and clear coated)
  
• Main and side stands
  

The footpegs got new front rubbers (rear ones were good / hardly used), cleaned pins and brushed and painted mounting bolts
The Footpeg plates, final drive unit, Rear Brake Caliper and gearbox got resurfaced ( brushed) and baked in silver and clear
The main and side stands got painted but I am going to get them powder coated






The shaft on the brake pedal received a healthy dose of white lithium grease



The oil sensor for the drive gets a new o'ring along with the Brake Caliper

bemade wrote:The oil sensor for the drive gets a new o'ring along with the Brake Caliper

Um, that is your speed sensor. That is what you meant yeah?
The oil sensor for that bit of the bike is an eyeball.

Duh . . . thanks for that. I had the wiring loom connector for it labeled as oil . . .lol . . .as long as it gets plugged back in to the right plug then everything will be fine :-)

After seeing your re-build, my project looks like a well used tart.

some great work there

congradulations ....!

Thanks for the kind words guys.

Hopefully it will all work out ok at the end, which is a couple of months away at least

Today I revised what I had done and went over everything done so far.

I drew up a list and went and replaced a lot of the bolts with new stainless steel ones due to too much wear in the Allen Heads, looking pretty hucky and the tools having slipped

I managed to source a new after-market side cover >>>> fuel tank grommet for the left sidecover. The old one was so brittle it died when removed :-( . . .heh . . well . . .@ 24 years old why am I not surprised. I also re- fitted the new braided brake lines on the front.

I have had to order oem from Auckland nuts and bolts for the exhaust heat shield as the bike came with it detached and I had no samples. The shield is in the paint shop getting VHT Blacked

The next major job is to assess the exhaust system / muffler and decided what to do there.

Be made wrote:

The next major job is to assess the exhaust system / muffler and decided what to do there.

Decision made. After applying a high speed cotton buffing wheel and Autosol in random places I discovered the vast majority of the Chrome is save-able so this is the chosen road for the exhaust system.

The innards and exterior seem sound so I wont be replacing it as I had first thought and I won't be rechroming it either as some people might have expected, given the effort gone in to the project already but this project was never meant to be a Mint Concours rebuild, just a customisation and restoration

I realize the mufflers (especially the mufflers) do give up the ghost at some point but this machine has done only 110,000 ks and I dont think I will out last the muffler but if I do then I will cross that bridge when I come to it :-)

Muffler is stainless. It will outlast us all.

club_c wrote:Muffler is stainless. It will outlast us all.

Thanks for that. Now knowing they are stainless I have embarked on a polishing mission.

I will do these myself (headers and muffler) mainly because I simply cannot justify the further $400.00 quoted by the polish shop for them, given the level of visibility of the exhaust system once fitted to the bike

It was worth it to me to get them to do the engine cases which are HIGHLY visible but not these. I will do little each day until completed

Before and after Headers

3 down 1 to go

about 1.5 hours each

Headers are finished. Muffler needs work now :-). will post when done

Before



Done



10 hours total. @ $400 quote from the polish shop that puts me on $40.00 / hr. The average wage here, by the way, is a pitiful $15 - 16

What we have thus far. 50% down and 50 % to go.



All Body work is done now, just the engine to overhaul and then re-assembly propper will begin. Everything is loosely assembled for now, awaiting the engine re-plant and then the final assembly in it's entirety will begin, re- laying every single component, torque wrenching and anti seize paste application to go on to all nuts and bolts. I may still have a play around with the clocks and the bars but have left the LT bars on here for now.

Well, if I can judge all your work from that front wheel and fork assembly then I think you will have a pretty sweet looking bike.

You should look at bringing it over to the west island where there are enough people left to appreciate it....




Would the last one out of NZ please turn off the light.
old, but still funny here on the west island.

Yeah . . don't really go in for trans Tasman jokes that much . . ends up turning in to a pissing match most of the time but thanks for the dig anyway :-) .

New Zealand can't help being such a cool place . . . . it is a lot closer to Antartica than AU :-)

This is more my style . .  Why did God create Harleys . . . . to keep dickheads off BMW's . . . .

Now I know this is a bit off topic but here goes anywayz.

27 June 2013

Must have been my lucky day today

One of the local bike shops was hosting a bike gear importers national sale

Its a funny ole world sometimes

Last year, back in August, when I first contemplated getting back in to the Motorcycling scene, after a 16 year absence as a Bike owner (but still fraternizing and test riding) I thought to myself that I would spend, like $500.00 on new set of gear for when I started riding again. For that sort of cash I was expecting a Jacket and a pair of Boots

Well, all year I shopped and shopped and either could not find anything that fitted proprely or could not get what I wanted at the price I wanted. Most of the Jackets alone were approaching the $500..00 mark so I thought I would have to up my budget to, maybe, $750.00 or so to get what I wanted. And then . . .

Blow me down. I went Jacket hunting at the same shop that had this sale, 2 days ago. One of the owners who I have known for many years told me about this sale which I had no idea whatsoever was about to happen. See . . I have been a little out of touch . . anywayz . . . I checked it out and got . . . what you see below . . retailing @ $946

for . . . .$495.00

Thats right . . . $495 for pants Jacket and boots!

saved . . . $451 . . nearly 50 %

And the best part is . . it all fits like I was born for it :-)

see! . . God does exist :-)

These are UK made, steel zips, removable linings with CE certified knee and elbow pads, both the jacket and the trou made by the same crowd so zip together at the back :-)

Some days it does pay to get outa bed. My usual trick is Oh no the sale ended yesterday and they are $600 today but yesterday they were $139.

Good buying

Well . . . after a little brain storming I figured I like one thing about the horns . . the NOISE. OMG they are LOUD

however the are prettty damn UGLY too. So . . my thoughts at this stage is

A/ mount them up front below the headlamp but COVER THEM with a leather tool bag, like the hardly riders have on their machines

B/ Replace them with some air horns. I REALLY like the looks of these:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=609100290

I am a big fan of tooting at errant cage drivers and these are pretty much the bizniz

sounds like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQqxhRQ1rPE

Re my last post:

The standard horns have found a new home on the bike and will be hidden from view completely :__)

I find out today if my Mechanic is going to do my engine for me or not. He has put me off for 3 months so last week I gave him "the word'. If he says no or tries to stall me again then it looks like I am doing it :-)

You can't just tell us that you have found a great home for the horns and then not tell us where that is!
BTW the stock horns will sound like a moped's unless you use the original, flat metal brackets. Something about allowing them to resonate.