Hi guys, as described in my Intro, ( https://www.k100-forum.com/t5106-hi-there-from-nz ) I am taking an 89 LT and stripping it down and rebuildiing to an unfaired K100 with a bit of customising

When I can figure how to put up a pic I shall upload the starting point ( fully faired with bags, blue LT) and go from there

Regards

Keith

Ok. Starting out here, I took the thing out back of my place where there is a dead straight, 6k road (albeit a little bumpy) and wound it out and it performed flawlessly . I have been advised not to post speeds online but think we all know how fast these things can go :-)

It has new continental tyres on it and the engine seemed very tight and responsive, with this being my maiden ride, and unfamiliar with the controls etc it was a little unnerving but a lot of fun! . . . .lol

Took the bags and top box off, but the bags will go back on the finished product

Ok.

I lowered the bars and got the Topbox carrier off and took the windscreen off as it was practically unusable and I could not wait to get my face in the wind. Damn these things are hot to ride when fully faired!

Now at least its ridable but I have already figured out I am too short for the bars. They will HAVE to be extended for me otherwise I am hunching forward slightly, no good for me . . .

Just as a side note I will be keeping a record of financials as I go

So far = Purchase price @ $2500 NZD

I have been sussing out headlamp and indicator options tonight. If I cant source brackets for, and mount the original Headlamp then I am thinking either to go with new brackets and a headlamp like the one below:

For the Head lamp

http://motorcyclegear.co.nz/roadbike-parts-accessories/bike-parts/headlights/headlight-7-round.html



Brackets:

http://motorcyclegear.co.nz/roadbike-parts-accessories/bike-parts/headlights/headlight-bracket.html



The other option is to try and source K100 one but that seems almost impossible

Any and all suggestions welcome Pleeeeeese . . . :-)

bemade wrote:Just as a side note I will be keeping a record of financials as I go

So far = Purchase price @ $2500 NZD

Bad idea. Really really bad idea. Unless you like to cry a lot or you can hide the receipts from the financial controller.

Purchased my bike for $6000 in 1995. Rode it till 2000.

Now back on the road. Receipts of over $1500 (including tyres) and I stopped with twice as many uncounted as counted.

Keep the receipts as proof of work, but don't bother yourself with the cost. Just enjoy the ride.

rossco

The rest of your post loaded after I added my response.
I bought a pair of headlight mounts and it is posted somewhere. let me look.

Indicators . . . a lot of variety but the simplest form seems to be this ( at the mo' but I just started looking . . .)

http://www.motozone.co.nz/products/hard-parts/lighting/indicators/indicators-universal/blinkers-mini-long.aspx

rossco wrote:

bemade wrote:Just as a side note I will be keeping a record of financials as I go

So far = Purchase price @ $2500 NZD

Bad idea. Really really bad idea.

Nah . . this is a great idea . . lol . . I AM the financial controller . . .heh . . and . . I want to see if I can complete this job under 5 grand,. If I can then I will have pretty much a near new bike for that amount and be very happy.

And I am not talking about counting every bean, just the initial purchase price and the conversion cost and the engine overhaul cost, then stop counting. Also, I operate a Land Transport service over here so one of the things I do is keep ledgers

I dis-count perishables (tyres, batteries, fluids, rego's and Wofs) but record repairsand modifications

By the way . . has anyone here ever done a nitrous oxide kit on a K ?

seems like a logical step to me but just wondering if I am actually mad to consider it or not . . comments ??

Have planned the color scheme - Black and Gold trim like an SD900 Duke was born in '82, considering powder coating the wheels, sighted this one and it gave me all sorts of ideas:

http://www.bmwmoa.org/images/gallery/The_Fifth_Build_A.jpg

I can only assume the owner of it may well be a member here

What an amazing machine!

Have a look at caferacer's bike. It is black and bronze/ copper and looks awesome. Close to balck and gold.

That red/ yellow bike is but a dream for most.

guy is a pro and has done a few bikes of equal awesomeness.

led blinkers need some sort of resistance I believe to overcome the blown globe syndrome.

that is all I know.
Warp factor 5 Mr Sulu

rossco wrote:Have a look at caferacer's bike. It is black and bronze/ copper and looks awesome. Close to balck and gold.

That red/ yellow bike is but a dream for most.

guy is a pro and has done a few bikes of equal awesomeness.

led blinkers need some sort of resistance I believe to overcome the blown globe syndrome.

that is all I know.
Warp factor 5 Mr Sulu

Thanks for the advises, beamer me up !

is it just me or do others find these bike are an exquisite art form....it reminds me of the times when girls became more interesting than football....at least a beautiful K is achievable by all....

Klompy the grey brick wrote:is it just me or do others find these bike are an exquisite art form....it reminds me of the times when girls became more interesting than football....at least a beautiful K is achievable by all....

Nah . . its not just you. :-)

My avatar will be replacing the BMW badge on the rear seat cowling

Will be adding a nitrous oxide kit once its finished

Wizards of NOS SB75 4 cylinder direct port bike nitrous Kit

The unique concept behind the
Street-Blaster 75 makes it the simplest yet most effective direct port
system on the market and it is specifically designed for all 4 cylinder
motorcycles with or without the original air box fitted. The
distinctive feature of a Street-Blaster 75 system is the compact Venom
injectors, which are much easier to fit than US Fogger ‘type’ nozzles.
Venom’s can be fitted in numerous locations whereas Fogger type nozzles
are only suitable for being fitted into the head ports, which usually
requires the head to be removed for machining and is therefore more
expensive.Independent results have proven that when adding up to 75bhp, a
Street-Blaster 75 can out perform any other direct port kit in all
respects, whilst also being more user friendly.

No other system has such a desirable combination of low price, ease of fitting, user friendliness and superior performance. Despite
the low price, this system still benefits from the same list of unique
high standard features as our Street-Blaster 150Bi. The Street-Blaster
75 has been designed to fit a stock street bike without any major
modifications and as a result can often be fitted without removing more
than the fuel tank, in less than half the time of other kits.

The
WON team have put a great deal of thought into the ease of fitting,
performance and cost when developing this unique system, to make sure it
ticks all the right boxes, for you and your bike. If you’re looking
for up to an extra 75 hp, why search further, only to find a more
difficult to fit, more expensive and less effective system, when you’ve
already found the best?

from here:

http://www.noswizard.com/bike-nitrous-kits-2/street-bike-nitrous-kits/sb75-direct-port-bike-nitrous-kit.html

The only thing I have ever seen nitrous do reliably is to melt holes in pistons especially the type the factory makes for any bike.

Thanks for that. I will obviously be needing to do a LOT of research before taking the plunge, but, seriously, after blatting up to Auckland last night (130ks from where I live) and screaming down the Auckland motoway methinks I may well not be needing nitro at all

This engine configuration and the bike amazes me. I had R100's years ago, a kwaka thou, and a few others but these k's handle a lot better than anything I have ever ridden before and the performance is right up there with the best of them. . . I am starting to understand the love affair with them now . . :-)

bemade wrote:after blatting up to Auckland last night (130ks from where I live) and screaming down the Auckland motoway at 200kph with still some to go on the throttle methinks I may well not be needing nitro at all... but these k's handle a lot better than anything I have ever ridden before and the performance is right up there with the best of them. . . I am starting to understand the love affair with them now . . :-)

He Heh!....now you're getting it I like your choice of colour scheme.

88

88KE wrote:He Heh!....now you're getting it I like your choice of colour scheme. 88

Thanks. I used to do the r100's in Black and silver but it seemed so common along side British bikes. I have always admired the SD900 (not just the colour's) but never really wanted to be a duke owner . . .a bit too exotic (not to mention EXPENSIVE repairs and parts)

What has stunned me is the affordability of these older K's. Mine cost a whole $2500nzd. A drop in the bucket really and you don't get anywhere near as much bang for your buck with other makes / models or the amount of flexibility when it comes to modification-ability. This thing I bought handles so well ( like a train on tracks really) and goes like a rocket . . Not to mention the astetics (Very pleasing to my eye). Methinks ur not gonna get any better value for money, or reliability or easy of use / low maintainence. I'm wrapped with the k100. This one will see me for the next 20+ years

So . . . . imagine it naked, and black, with gold pinstripe, engine bars, big spotlamps, highway pegs, small ape-hangers, a round headlamp and some sexy signwriting / logs etc. I think it will come up reasonably nice by the time its done . . and all for around 5 grand total, tops

have managed to get some yamaha xs650 special headlamp ears. a lot better than what I had planned

My headlamp brackets arrived today and fit almost perfectly, only requiring a trim of 15 mm in length

For those interested in converting they are of a Yamaha XS650 special, 38mm stalks

I got them off trademe for $80.00 which, although this sounds expensive, when I looked at the alternatives it was $280.00 to get some made and chromed almost identical to what you see here, aftermarket clip-ons ugly as for $65.00 so all things considered I think these are a great solution and will complement the universal 7 inch headlamp nicely

Interesting thread as I've just removed the fairing from my '84 RT.
Nothing wrong with it but just a bit fed up with the extra weight up high. It has nearly caught me out a couple of times when wheeling it around.
Think it might be a bit more 'chuckable' on the road too. I had a 83 K100 a few years ago and remember it as being more fun to ride.
Bought a pair of satin black headlight brackets with the rubber inserts for £30. They are very sturdy and after polishing up the bottom yoke, look smart. One advantage with this type of bracket is that you can alter the height of the headlight position.
Have a new 8"(?) round headlight on order for £35 and it should arrive soon. Going to try to mount the horns just under the headlight when I see what clearance I have.
Have kept the standard RT bars but removed the 1" risers. Will see if I need lower bars later.
The standard K mirrors are available from Motorworks in two lengths for £20 each. Going to pick up a smoked fly screen to hide that ugly big set of clocks.
Still have the RT fairing and, if I do miss the old fart feel, reckon a day will put it back on.
Hope to get a run out Friday or Saturday when the temperature is set to get into double figures. Then I'll see how much I miss the fairing.
Did have a thought when the costs where mentioned.
If I sold all the fairing bits on eBay I think my K would be FREE! Hmm.

Looking forward to see the trimmed but version CJ.

'Looking forward to see the trimmed but version CJ.'

Have you been peeking at my but?

Comberjohn wrote:
Have kept the standard RT bars but removed the 1" risers. Will see if I need lower bars later.
The standard K mirrors are available from Motorworks in two lengths for £20 each.

Thread hijack alert.
Comberjohn, check out THIS thread on bars. I did exactly as you plan to do and put on the Standard bars. Very comfortable to ride. I also got the mirrors from Motorworks and they are perfect. Just specify which bars you have or you will be looking at your elbows.

Thanks for that Rossco. Useful write up on the various types of bars.
Had the standard K bars in mind as I remember them as being about right.

Comberjohn wrote:'Looking forward to see the trimmed but version CJ.'

Have you been peeking at my but?

"Damn you predictive text" not "but" or "Butt" bike. Anyway the only view I only ever get to see of your butt is a feint red dot in the distance from your tail light. Where it says "tear along the dotted line" on your licence they weren't referring to the road markings

rossco wrote:

Comberjohn wrote:
Have kept the standard RT bars but removed the 1" risers. Will see if I need lower bars later.
The standard K mirrors are available from Motorworks in two lengths for £20 each.

Thread hijack alert.
Comberjohn, check out THIS thread on bars. I did exactly as you plan to do and put on the Standard bars. Very comfortable to ride. I also got the mirrors from Motorworks and they are perfect. Just specify which bars you have or you will be looking at your elbows.

Well . . I know this might piss the purists off but here goes anywayz . . I am fitting apehangers . . YES . . APE Hangers to this K

as below:



Why? . because I am a short arse and have experimented lots with bars in the past and ended up preferring to sit in the "armchair position", especially for long distance so, ape hangers and highway pegs here we come!

I know it might end up looking a little weired but at the end of the day I am here to please me (after all I AM THE ONE WHO HAS TO LIKE IT / RIDE IT) not everyone or anyone else. . . . .lol

Did you make those ape hangers? I see no knurling on the mount points so was wondering also wondering if they are 22mm bars

Wouldn't be for me but, as you say, its your bike and the K is an ideal bike for modifying to suit your own tastes.
You'll have a bit of extra work with the longer control cables and electrics needed. Brake line should be easier to organise.
I'm hoping to road test mine tomorrow after removing the RT fairing. Pleased with the result so far. Still have the RT bars on in the meantime. High enough for me.
When wheeling the bike in and out of my workshop I notice a big difference moving the bike around. Not the same top heavy feel to it. Looking forward to seeing the difference on the road.

K75cster wrote:Did you make those ape hangers? I see no knurling on the mount points so was wondering also wondering if they are 22mm bars

No . . these are aftermarket and for sale supply aplenty off trademe.co.nz or direct through the supplier in new plymouth here in nz @ $ $65.00 I think, and they are 7/8th inch which means the upper half round mounting clamps need to be shaved slightly for a perfect fit but I have had 7/8th on beamers before and never worried about doing the shaving and they seemed fine. then again I am not a purist or a perfectionist. I just go for what works for me . . :-)

Headlamp and indicators arrived today.

Settled for a 7 inch chrome dome and mini bullet style indicators x 4

Only hitch is the thread sizes

Have to make stems to marry 10mm headlamp thread with 3/8 imperial indicator thread as indicators will be used to fasten headlamp to headlamp ears

PRELIMINARY FIT UP OF HEADLAMP / INDICATOR ARRANGEMENT

so we've gone from this ; . . . . . .



To this . . .



This turned out to be a bit expensive as the headlamp ears didn't fit using my eyecrometer

The diameter was 38 mm and forks 41.3 so they ended up being split up the seams, spread and an interference fit over the staunchons which actually worked out well but I filled the bolt holes so now need to rechrome.

The flaps needed straightening as well and the Front indicator stems needed to be remade as they were 10mm thread and the headlamp was 8mm but it got the job done nicely @ $148 for indicators, $250 for the finished ears and stems, rechroming still to be done

Very nice ...but imagine if those clocks were lower....mmmmmm

Yep . . . just in the prelim stages at the mo' but obviously wanting to hide the horns, do something about the clocks (maybe discard and run just a aftermarket speedo), do something else with the rear vision mirrors etc, disgard the gators

Just took it for a quick strop and my oh my . . its GR8 to be back in the full force of the wind. 29 degrees here today and 100% humidity

Land of the low warm cloud hey bro....

bemade wrote:

rossco wrote:

Comberjohn wrote:
Have kept the standard RT bars but removed the 1" risers. Will see if I need lower bars later.
The standard K mirrors are available from Motorworks in two lengths for £20 each.

Thread hijack alert.
Comberjohn, check out THIS thread on bars. I did exactly as you plan to do and put on the Standard bars. Very comfortable to ride. I also got the mirrors from Motorworks and they are perfect. Just specify which bars you have or you will be looking at your elbows.

Well . . I know this might piss the purists off but here goes anywayz . . I am fitting apehangers . . YES . . APE Hangers to this K

as below:



Why? . because I am a short arse and have experimented lots with bars in the past and ended up preferring to sit in the "armchair position", especially for long distance so, ape hangers and highway pegs here we come!

I know it might end up looking a little weired but at the end of the day I am here to please me (after all I AM THE ONE WHO HAS TO LIKE IT / RIDE IT) not everyone or anyone else. . . . .lol

My RS sidecar had bars a bit like that when I bought it. I rode it home, replaced the bars with a set of K1100RS bars(along with 2" barbacks) that I had immediately. Then I threw the chrome buckhorn things in the bin so they wouldn't be inflicted on any unsuspecting motorcycle

Like you say, its your bike and your choice no one else has to like it.

Al

My wife had a Yamaha Virago with those bars. On anything more than a 1/2 hour trip they made her arms ache and to be honest they made the bike into an absolute pig of a thing but she liked the look.
I eventually persuaded her to change the bars for a set of more conventional bars and it changed the bike. it was even easier to manuver it in the shed. After a couple of runs there is no way that she would have let me change the bars back.
When we sold it I put those bars back on because it did look far more appealing with then. When the guy that bought it picked it up we told him to take the spare set of bars with it as he might like to try them but he declined, he rang a week later and asked if we still had the bars we offered. I was very happy to give them to him.

But it is your choice and best of luck.

With a bit of careful drilling of the mounting bracket I was able to lower the clocks by about 23mm.
Doesn't sound like much but is noticeable. In the process of fitting smoked fly screen at the headlight. Could have been made for it. Hides the area between the headlight and back of the clocks. Was thinking of hiding the horns in there.
About to change the bars to Suzuki 1400 ones for a more forward position.

One way to hide the gap between the clocks and headlight.

[img][/img]

Rick G wrote:But it is your choice and best of luck.

Yes, I knew this info about my choice of bars would attract some comments.

All I will say is that I had a Honda 750/4 C a long time ago with these bars on it. 3 hours from new plymouth to hamilton, 4 hours to napier etc, numerous trips all ove NZ and I never felt more comfortable, especially with the highway pegs, a real low slung "armchair" riding postion. One can but experiment with what fits oneself and settle for that in the end, huh

That is what building a custom bike is all about. Seesh it'd be a dull old world if we were all the same.

Must have a Cast Iron Bum to ride for 3 hours in the cruiser position. I rode one once for 200km and in my 55 years of motorcycling I have never enjoyed a ride less. Cant get your weight off the seat with forward footrests and the wind does its best to blow your head off your shoulders. Still I am an old fart and its your choice and best of luck to you.
Regards Dennis.

dalderton wrote:Must have a Cast Iron Bum to ride for 3 hours in the cruiser position. I rode one once for 200km and in my 55 years of motorcycling I have never enjoyed a ride less. Cant get your weight off the seat with forward footrests and the wind does its best to blow your head off your shoulders. Still I am an old fart and its your choice and best of luck to you.
Regards Dennis.

are you forgetting we still have the option of using the original foot pegs :-)

anywayz, not into a rider position debate on this thread. feel free to start another one just for that if you like

Surely if you were not interested in comments it would be pointless to start the thread. It was after all only a point of view with no offence intended.
Regards Dennis.

my seat hurts my bum.........no one asked or cares but I am sharing this gem anyway.

Klompy the grey brick wrote:my seat hurts my bum.........no one asked or cares but I am sharing this gem anyway.

Nice. . .my bum is a gem as well but I ain't sharing it . . .lol

Comberjohn wrote:With a bit of careful drilling of the mounting bracket I was able to lower the clocks by about 23mm.
Doesn't sound like much but is noticeable. In the process of fitting smoked fly screen at the headlight. Could have been made for it. Hides the area between the headlight and back of the clocks. Was thinking of hiding the horns in there.
About to change the bars to Suzuki 1400 ones for a more forward position.

Love the screen in the photo. Can I ask where I might obtain one of those!

Of course I would chop it off at the clocks or maybe half an inch above but it still would do a supreme job and looks a lot easier than dispensing with the stock clocks

I picked it up on eBay for £17. Its made by a company called Puig.
It was supposed to be from a Suzuki SV650/1000. Only mods were swoping over the mounting brackets and flattening them slightly.
Thinking about what you are going to do with it, what about spraying it same colour as the bike? Would look like a cowling then.

look good the bottom half black......heaps of choices