AL-58 wrote:In tribute to Bob Marley & the Wailers?

Al

I think the beast just found its name

hey man, great work, you'll have a right good bike by the end of this!!  

I wanted to ask, as I could probably do a search, but what is that about a difference in gear ratios between the Lt and others?  i've only eve had LT's and I've always felt that they should be geared to rev lower by the time you reach 5th...

The LT had 2.91 ratio as did the RT but the RS has 2.82 and is interchangeable with the LT/RT

RicK G wrote:The LT had 2.91 ratio as did the RT but the RS has 2.82 and is interchangeable with the LT/RT

Or a 32:10 from a K75. 

so you guys are saying that the LT was already geared to have longer legs?   I'm surprised, running 5K rpm at ~80 mph seemed like I could have really used a 6th gear!!

I always thought that these 100's would get pretty great mileage if they had another gear, 38mpg isn't that great overall. 

So is this just the output shaft, or the entire gearbox? Could the K75's 3.2 be substituted for a K100?  (not that I have the time or energy to do so, but as an idea)

Sorry to hijack your thread mate, looking forward to the next installment!  

You can fit the bevel box ( final drive) from a K100RS which will gear the RT/LT slightly higher. It drops the engine revs by a couple of hundred at 60 mph in top gear. Personally I have found that it makes no difference to fuel consumption.

snowbeard wrote:so you guys are saying that the LT was already geared to have longer legs?   I'm surprised, running 5K rpm at ~80 mph seemed like I could have really used a 6th gear!!

I always thought that these 100's would get pretty great mileage if they had another gear, 38mpg isn't that great overall. 

So is this just the output shaft, or the entire gearbox? Could the K75's 3.2 be substituted for a K100?  (not that I have the time or energy to do so, but as an idea)

Sorry to hijack your thread mate, looking forward to the next installment!  

The bike is designed to run at those RPMs. It's not a Toyota Camry.  It runs at even higher RPMs at Autobahn speeds.

I used to ride my K75RT around Montana at 7K+ all day long.

duck wrote:

snowbeard wrote:so you guys are saying that the LT was already geared to have longer legs?   I'm surprised, running 5K rpm at ~80 mph seemed like I could have really used a 6th gear!!

I always thought that these 100's would get pretty great mileage if they had another gear, 38mpg isn't that great overall. 

So is this just the output shaft, or the entire gearbox? Could the K75's 3.2 be substituted for a K100?  (not that I have the time or energy to do so, but as an idea)

Sorry to hijack your thread mate, looking forward to the next installment!  

The bike is designed to run at those RPMs. It's not a Toyota Camry.  It runs at even higher RPMs at Autobahn speeds.

I used to ride my K75RT around Montana at 7K+ all day long.

Ohh, a camry had a couple of those .
the 2.0 didnt exceed 4000rpm. At a 170km/h


KK-rider

oh, I think I was confused in reading the ratios, so the RS has a lower rev in top gear, got it. 

and its all in the final drive? our gearboxes are the same? that could almost be within my abilities...

I understand that the bike is designed for this, but as we are all here to tinker, I want to "improve" on it for my own devices. I find it to have more than plenty of power across the range, so why not get a little better mileage. 

disclaimer: I've been living in Europe for the last few years, smaller cars, better mileage, less power. I'm happy to save money and feel like I'm using less of our resources  

Yep. Final drive swap - easy peasy.

The only other difference is that a K75 has 3% "shorter" gearing in the transmission for 5th gear.  (Shorter means it would increase your RPMs 3% for a given speed.)

In the process of stripping and painting the tank and front fairing.

The front fairing has a crack in it where the headlight sits. Whats the best way to fix this do ya reckon?

Flat Olive drab will be going on in the next few days

Also, I cut off the knee spikes that result from just having the front fairing fitted without the lower fairing bits that cover the throttle bodies etc. Looks nice and natural. Like a bought one...

Just removed the insulation stuff (can you buy news bits of this?) and roughly sanded back the original paint, then primed it ready for the green.



Use auto-paint stripper and a scrapper to get back to the bare alloy. Sanded then hit with primer this arvo. Easy.



How do I fix this?

fibreglass matting and resin ,,,from behind to strengthen the crack
then resin - bog to fill the space up ?  then a then layer of fiberglass on the outer  before cutting back

just ...what I would do

I'd jam JBWeld into the crack, you can buy it at jaycar and thin it with acetone so it runs. Takes a couple of days to go off that way though. Strong stuff. Bend crack open, apply the epoxy weld, let it set, sand it flat.

I found this while looking for Ducati bits.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heat-shield-Motorcycle-Fairing-universal-100x25cm-Ducati-ST2-ST3-ST4-/151156423863?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23319ffcb7&_uhb=1

Also, there is no need to go back to metal if painting with 2Pac paint. You can simply rub back with a scotch pad but I prefer a 400 grit rub under primer. Then spray 2Pac primer with a 1.8 to 2 mm gun, it tends to clog smaller guns. Then sand the primer with 800grit, now it's glossy. It's ready for colour and clear. If you are using acrylic or enamel I can't help at all.

Floyd,
As recommended by Old Goat, I used Dynamat as a heatshield.



Just cut it to size, remove the backing and stick it down.

It may be worth a double layer in your part of the world.  

Paul.

Floyd get onto this guy I bought some heat shield from him about 2 years ago John Ashworth jandjash@bigpond.net.au

Drill a small hole at each end of the crack, to prevent the crack running any further.

 Careful some get hooked on it.




 

Thanks lads,

thought id give the JB Weld and holes drilled at ends of crack combo ago. Just done it, so will sand it back in 24hrs and paint it. 

Also, Im using enamel paint Robin, and have never painted a tank or fairings before, so I thought, bugger it, Ill go back to bare metal and the stripper I used worked well. BTW mate, my new shims arrived today so Ill get your valve adjustment tools back to you asap. 


Also, qucik update.....I pulled the sump/oilpan off my 85 RS and HOORAY, it fits the 84 model, unlike the 86 sump which seems identical to the K1100 model, where the output bearing had a chunky lip as a part of the bearing its self, where as
the earlier models had a big circlip type things around the bearing instead. 

So, im ready to finish the valve adjustments, fit the K1100 output shaft (with the 84 K100 bearing fitted), put the sump back on, put all engine cases back on, fit the K1100 throttle bodies, put my new clutch in, fit the re sealed gear box etc etc etc on and on....

good news Floyd ...keep at it mate

ungaas wrote:Drill a small hole at each end of the crack, to prevent the crack running any further.

 Careful some get hooked on it.




 

What a crack up! Oh shit....pun was not intended, and if it wasnt so lame id remove it

Nice to see a fellow Linux user

Im a very busy little Vegemite lately. Busier then I have been in year in fact. Between full time work, semi-full-time study, teaching on various sustainable design courses, doing design consultations, being married, being a 30 year old male, and rebuilding a 30 year old motorcycle, there aint many hours left in the day....

Anyways, all this to say, I dont have the time I would like at the moment to delve deeply into these enormously rich and delicious forums and extract their juicy golden Knuggets of goodness.

If anyone would like to suggest any suitable 'mods' that they reckon should either: A) be taken up by all K owners, regarldess of the bikes use and function, or: B) those mods which would be suitable for a "round-the-world-semi-adventure-tourer" like my beast here.

Just to quickly sum up the mods currently on the agenda: 
(items in blue have already been purchased/done)

- K1100 front end (brakes, forks etc)
- K1100 output shaft
- K1100 throttle bodies

- Some kind of bash plate
- some kind of 'fender extender' front and rear to prevent stone damage to timing chain cover and also clutch arm/GPI etc
- I might raise the front fender by an inch (or at least 10mm) to prevent mud build up and blockage
- Extra under tank cooling (also elsewhere?)
- Just read that Charlie (via Rossco) did a fuel cooler mod? WHats this one about?



Also, whats some other known issues I should be keeping an eye out for at this stage?
This is what I have my eye on and and addressing currently:

- new thrust washer at engine output (can apparently where and cause load noises
- will clean and service the start sprag bits and bobs
- obviously, replaced the 6 rivet output shaft with a 12 rivet version.


Last but not least....I bought a complete engine seal kit from the Bins. It came with a new head gasket. Should I fit it or not? I have no reason to believe the existing one is nackered, but while Ive got the engine out etc, would it be a good time to do it? Please say no, I dont think im up for taking the head off.

Mentioned elsewhere in the forum, replace the rear shock stud in the rear drive, maybe even reinforce it. They can snap in some circumstances.  I had one snap on a solo K100 on some corrugations at speed (the bike had done many kms with sidecar also, it was far from fresh).  Others have had them snap too.

Al

indeed al

sidecar paul has blessed a few of us with an awesome solution

a simple solution indeed

highly recommended for the adventurous ...and others just trying to keep it all happening

Gentlemen, I have two words for you.....BAD ASS...

Or, acorrding to the color:baboons ass:-D

Nice job did you paint it 

k-rider

looks great Floyd .....I want one ...grin

Got it powder coated k-rider. Not a perfect job, but good enough for the bush...

Nice! I'll be very interested to see how this all turns out!  did you have a choice of color or did they just cut you a deal on what they had extra of?  (no offense intended)

 I have a BSA A10 frame that I received powder coated red, along with every other piece he could lay hands on  :suspect:  , and I think the frame might be the only thing I leave red, and all the other tin either black or silver...  olive green will be an interesting preview I think! 

Here's the stud support details......from post 35 onwards.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t5094-studs-who-wants-a-stud?highlight=stud

Paul.

Some people do seem to like red:



 

 

I mean, even the stand and handle bars are red .. I've never seen anything like it.

You don't have a shot from the other side do ya?  I think the swing arm is red too !!!


 

I think that was what the fellow I bought this basket case from was going for. If you notice, he even had the d@&n barrels powdercoated!!! on an air cooled bike no less   

and he actually had a few bikes, most of them tending toward red. Must be an obsession ;-)

still looking forward to seeing how just a red frame peeking out looks tho mate!  

Powder coated barrels on an air cooled engine now I have seen a few of them cook more than the sausages.

Can any body tell me the sizes of these 2 red O-rings, located between the crankcase and the sump?

My seal kit didnt come with any

15 x 2,5 mm and 27,3 x 2,4 mm.

Inge K. wrote:15 x 2,5 mm and 27,3 x 2,4 mm.

Thank you sir!

Don't use the black nitrile O-rings they go hard and will leak within 2 years. Use the red silicone or the brown viton but red silicone is the best.

Viton isn't that fond of hot water, the bigger o-ring is for a coolant passage.

Inge K. wrote:Viton isn't that fond of hot water, the bigger o-ring is for a coolant passage.

True but it is much better than the nitrile which doesn't take a lot of doing.

RicK G wrote:Don't use the black nitrile O-rings they go hard and will leak within 2 years. Use the red silicone or the brown viton but red silicone is the best.

I am really sorry to hear that i just used tve black ones after a outputshaft rebuild.
  .i thought they where fine since i bought them at motorworks.
well the bike is running , i guess ill just have to see for how long   


k-rider

k-rider wrote:

RicK G wrote:Don't use the black nitrile O-rings they go hard and will leak within 2 years. Use the red silicone or the brown viton but red silicone is the best.

I am really sorry to hear that i just used tve black ones after a outputshaft rebuild.
  .i thought they where fine since i bought them at motorworks.
well the bike is running , i guess ill just have to see for how long   


k-rider

Thanks all. Im pretty pissed they werent included in the seal kit I got from Motobins. There is heaps of things in the kit that seem to have no apparent home, but these obvious ones were frustratingly absent!

Sorry to hear k-rider, but at least you know about it and will  be able to fix it at a convenient time....

Where should I go to buy these here in Sydney? Would repco have them?

Any of the bearing places should be able to find them.

Can anyone point me to a post Ive seen but cant locate regarding strengthening the front faring/headlight mounting bracket?

k-rider wrote:

RicK G wrote:Don't use the black nitrile O-rings they go hard and will leak within 2 years. Use the red silicone or the brown viton but red silicone is the best.

I am really sorry to hear that i just used tve black ones after a outputshaft rebuild.
  .i thought they where fine since i bought them at motorworks.
well the bike is running , i guess ill just have to see for how long   


k-rider

It isn't necessarily that bad k-rider, on the motorworks page it's informed that this o-ring could be red or black.
I assume that both colours is of the same material and quality.....

Also have a look at this.

very informative inge ...thanks for the link

charlie99 wrote:very informative inge ...thanks for the link

 

Inge K. wrote:

k-rider wrote:

RicK G wrote:Don't use the black nitrile O-rings they go hard and will leak within 2 years. Use the red silicone or the brown viton but red silicone is the best.

I am really sorry to hear that i just used tve black ones after a outputshaft rebuild.
  .i thought they where fine since i bought them at motorworks.
well the bike is running , i guess ill just have to see for how long   


k-rider

It isn't necessarily that bad k-rider, on the motorworks page it's informed that this o-ring could be red or black.
I assume that both colours is of the same material and quality.....

Also have a look at this.

Ooh, thats a relief, thank you for posting

k-rider

I'm worried that some microscopic crud has (or will, when I clean up the mating surface where the TB rubbers go) fallen into the inlet of the head. 

how to proceed? Maybe I should take the head off, clean it and put the new gasket in...?

Or am I unnecessarily paranoid?

Stuff a bit of rag down the ports and clean the mating surfaces reapply with a smear of 3 bond remove the rag and replace the TBs.
It's called paralysis of analysis.

Thanks mate, paralysis averted. The clymers manual makes out that a single grain of dust will cause spontaneous self destruction of any component worth more than $2

RicK G wrote:Don't use the black nitrile O-rings they go hard and will leak within 2 years. Use the red silicone or the brown viton but red silicone is the best.

Asked for Red Silicone ones at the bearing shop and told them its for high temp - went to collect today and they gave me brown viton.

Also, got all 6 bearings for the gearbox and new steering head bearings (second set Ive had to buy....the damn safe place stole the others!)

for O-rings and bearings it cost $160.. More then I was expecting, but ya get that dont ya.