Hi K-freaks,

(sorry, rather long winded....)   

Time to start my own build thread....Havnt got a great deal actually done yet, but need to start dumping stuff on here so I dont have to do a massive post in the future.....

Ok, so some of you may already know what Ive got planned, as I have been lurking here for a few months asking questions etc, but now its time to consolidate all that stuff here in one place.

Doing this thread for 2 main reasons – 1) because I have so thoroughly enjoyed reading other peoples, and have learnt a lot in the process, so hope to contribute to this massive body of knowledge in some small way; and 2) So I can simply keep track of things and have a personal record of what I have done.....

Soooo, I have 3.75 K bikes now....and from them will emerge 1. The idea being that I can either go out and spend 5-10 grand on a nice machine, but I would be uncertain of its real condition etc and as we all know, all machines drink money regardless. I would also have to spend a bit of coin setting it up for exactly what I want....
OR;
I could go and buy some cheap wrecks, and build them into 1, knowing exactly what has been reconditioned or replaced etc and end up with a reconditioned machine, perfectly trailered to my needs and desires – for roughly the same cost. Also, a big part of my choice was the fact that Im simply itching to get my hands dirty and cant wait to get balls deep in a bike build project. Oh, and by the end of the process I would know the machine inside out, and be able to easily diagnose and repair issues on the road.

There is a range of reasons why I chose the K, and I guess a quick description of what my end goal for the machine would help you see why I have gone down this path...

My wife works in the international aid/development industry, and I am a horticulturalist/permaculturalist with quite a bit of experience in providing design services and consultancies to a whole range of organisations etc. This time next year, the Mrs will be shipped off to some far flung place in Africa or Asia, and I will be riding off into the sunset to where ever that place happens to be. There is a 50/50 chance she will be coming with me on the back, so a single cylinder dirt bike was deemed to be unsuitable. There was also the idea (and still is kicking around) of building a sidecar outfit.

So I needed something with:
- decent power,
- good load carrying capacity,
- extreme reliability,
- Can run for long periods of time, in varying conditions and still be happy about it,
- fairly basic in design,
- easy to service and work on at the road side,
- cheap and readily available parts
- strong community of riders willing to help
- something I can slightly customise and set up as a bit of a GS – not a Dakar GS, just something a bit more suitable for international travel on a range of road surfaces and WILL be dropped at some point – so dont want a full fairing that can be damaged etc.

Id always been attracted to the R bikes, but they are more expensive basically – and when I was ready to pull the trigger and throw money at someone, I couldnt find anything suitable.

So, perhaps somewhat foolishly and hastily, I bought 3 K100's off a bloke in QLD for $1800. Sight unseen mind you! He delivered them to my mums place and unloaded them too. Apparently these 3 have done the rounds a bit, so hopefully they have found their new home!

At the end of last year, I drove up to QLD and collected them all. I have an 84 and 85 RS and a 86 LT. Only thing missing is 1 of the seats. The 85 RS was mostly original and together and it actually ran, but fairly rough. The 84 RS is a totally pile of shit, but will have some salvageable parts on in. Not sure if the engine even turns over yet, we'll see. The 86 LT is completely and totally dismantled. Every single nut and bolt has been removed. I have boxes full of pistons and conrods and cams and on and on. Looks like this is the one that the original starter of this project was doing up. The frame has been painted, engine cases soda blasted etc.

This weekend I will be driving back out to Mudgee where I lived all last year, and bring my beasts to the big smoke, to commence their resurrection.

In the meantime I have also purchased a K1100. It is missing the gearbox, the swing arm, final drive, rear wheel. But I only bought it for the complete front end (although I have since realised that the K1100 came with either a 17 or 18in front – not sure what I have but I want the 18), the output shaft, throttle bodies, injectors and bigger alternator. The rest will be sold. Oh, and I paid $500 for it – a little to much perhaps.

Yesterday I dropped $700 at motobins on the following:
- Complete service kit
- timing chain kit
- steering head bearings
- fork seals
- fork gaitors
- engine seal kit
- water/oil pump kit
- gasket cement

There is more that I need obviously, just waiting to strip the bikes and see what I can salvage first. Things like throttle body rubbers etc.


Sooooo, in summary my vision at the moment for the bike is:

- K1100 front end, throttle bodies, injectors, 12 rivet output shaft, upgraded alternator
- Use the running 85 RS engine and drive line (or the drive line in the best nick)
- Use the already painted 86 LT frame
- Buy a new high quality rear shock
- Replace most engine seals and rubber
- Remove most of the body work. Not sure which nose fairing to use. Leaning toward RS front fairing with a screen extender and the LT bars
- Remove tail section and make a very strong rack attached to the subframe
- recondition the best set of panniers I have
- Paint it all flat khaki and flat black (very basic, utilitarian, etc)
- Put about another 100,000kms on it

Stand buy for some pics, regular updates, and loooots of questions!

Thanks heaps to you pack of gents (and ladies?)

Floyd.


BTW, click this link and you can see spread sheet I have made to keep track of expected costs and actual costs. Let me know what ya think!


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuDWCEQiyShFdDQ0dWhZenRZT3JmbjZKM2J3dFQwSHc&usp=sharing

QUICK POST SCRIPT:

Faaaaark me, the bins just charged me 60 pounds for shipping to Aus....well, I guess bearings, cam chain etc weight adds up...

Wonder if there is a matrix to help us determine when an item is more cost effective to have shipped from the UK or get it locally..... Or maybe I just need to do the research

Anyways, was thinking today how radical my K bike purchase actually is...

Firstly, at the beginning of this I said to my self "the fewer cylinders the better, carbs are great, water cooling sucks" - well, I now have 4 liquid cooled engines and more cylinders then you could poke a proverbial stick at...alas...as far as high tech goes, these bikes are nearly as low tech as you can get hehe  

Secondly, my old man was a bike mechanic from age 16 til the old bastard carcked it nearly 11 years ago. He was only 53 too the silly bugger. Some of you (if your from the Central West of NSW, and have anything to do with Harleys or Ducatis) may or may not be familiar with him. Phil Constable is his name. Mostly worked for him self, but did a stint at Frasers in Bathurst as the workshop manager for a bit too. Anyways, he hated Beemers for some reason. Bikes but especially cars. Always said he'd buy a Lexus over anything European. Said BMW stood for Big Money Waster, and the story goes that once - long before my time - a mate of his turned up at a rally with a brand spanking Bee Em. "Ohhhh, nice" says the old man..."Mind if I kick it over?"...."No Drama" says the mate....Well, the grumpy old prick promptly did as he asked and literally kicked the poor thing over....

Im sure he is rolling in his grave, but I sure would love to have the conversation with him regardless. I bet he'd come around, and realise that now, after 30 years, and K's are MORE then affordable, and still clocking up miles, just how freakin great they are....

rant off. cheers.

 

Whats 'the' SS braided line to go for?

I got some from Motobins and from memory about 17 squids a piece thats about $30 plus postage. I can get them made in Stanthorpe but the thief charges $60 each and that was 18 months ago.

Thanks Rick.

Will have to wait and see what bars I go wtih before purchasing lines...

Just read that the K1100 has quite a bit less ground clearance then the K100 (something like 135mm vs 185mm)
What causes that? Suspension or bodywork/larger engine?

The RS would have less clearance due to the belly fairing but the LT isn't much different to the K100 but then again they are road bikes and where on our super smooth highways and byways would you find a bump that big. 

RicK G wrote:The RS would have less clearance due to the belly fairing but the LT isn't much different to the K100 but then again they are road bikes and where on our super smooth highways and byways would you find a bump that big. 

fair point....Its something I should have taken into consideration though when I decided to buy the K1100 for its (among other things) front end. According to the specs I can find the K1100 has shorter travel forks too...

The name Phil Constable rings a very faint bell in the old puddn. From this far away seems unlikely
I would have heard of him, then again I used to keep my ears open and voraciously read the magazines.

One thing tho Floyd, with 2 complete K's I would expect 2 rejuvenated bikes. Please dont rob much from
the other potential bike, a small point I know but a goer will always be worth more than a basket.
Well done with the K11 front end, That's gotta' be worth $500 alone.
Pics ASAP please?

Soooo,

I have the 84RS here in my tiny, shared back yard in Marrickville. Its poked down the side of miserable block of flats I now call home. 

Proud to say though, that Im living the dream! Have all my old mans tools and tool chest in my bedroom! hehe and the Mrs doesnt seem to mind. Oh well, she has enough of her trinkets etc so its time for me to put my touch on the place   

The other K100's are still back at the farm and I will raid parts from them as required when I go back to teach on various courses that I run or co teach there.

I collected the K1100 yesterday for the nutter that I bought it off last year in Hornsby. This bloke has 16 Peurgeots and volvos in various states of decay throughout his suburban block, and a house full of ancient stero equipment he constantly buys of ebay. Getting the bike from within the bowls of this mess, up a steep driveway, between cars on blocks and onto my trailer was a massive feat to say the least. Not to mention it has no back wheel fitted!

Anyways, dropped it off at a farm/market garden in Dural run by some Spanish and Aussie friends of mine. They have lots of sheds and are more then happy to store shit for me in exchange for the odd oil change on their tractor. (http://www.common2us.com/)

Dropped it off, and immediately removed the throttle bodies, air box, injectors, front wheel, callipers and forks. For some reason, on the trailer the forks seemed to be seized and would not compress. But once they were removed they were loose and springy as an old mattress....

When using the K1100 throttle bodies on the K100, does one need to also use the K1100 air box?


This arvo, after my long hot first day back to work in my new job (Bush Regeneration - today was working at Mona Vale Dunes) I got home to some ice cold Boags, and commenced stripping the 84RS. Removed the pannier racks, the rear fender, foot peg mount plates, rear wheel and final drive.

Check out these splines....in my completely un-k-experienced eyes they seem shagged. Will have to grab the other final drives and drive shafts I have out at the farm. From memory they are slightly better...but show very obvious signs of wear....damn...

Drive Shaft off 84RS


Close Up Drive Shaft


Final Drive off 84RS

Ghost who rides wrote:One thing tho Floyd, with 2 complete K's I would expect 2 rejuvenated bikes. Please dont rob much from
the other potential bike, a small point I know but a goer will always be worth more than a basket.
Well done with the K11 front end, That's gotta' be worth $500 alone.
Pics ASAP please?

Cheers mate! Yeah, ideally I would end up with 2 runners. 
#1 my semi-adventure bike
#2 a fairly stock, early RS

However right now the priority is most certainly to just get a runner that will get me to work (and around the world). Not sure if ill have the time for the second for quite a while, but I should be able to store it all until the time arises... 

 

Goodo Floyd, nice to see some pics, thanks. Splines SHAGGED same as mine. Bumma eh?

You have spares tho' so fingers X'ed

Hmmm..for the sake of curiosity, assuming my other 2 drive shafts and rear drives are kuput, what are the options in Australia? Seems hard to beleive no one here can rebuild them...

Just read this post: https://www.k100-forum.com/t7226-shaft-and-drive-splines and in it RickG says that you can get a replacement spline for the pinion gear in the final drive....how does this work? IS it essentially cutting off the old splines and attaching the new piece? 

Couldnt find the part on motobins...

Ahhhh something rather significant just occurred to me....its really the LT final drive that I want anyways so hopefully its still got many miles in it....although the LT is an 86 so may have the 20 splines. Will a 20 spline drive shaft also require a new gearbox output shaft to match?

Managed to get a bit done this arvo!   


BEFORE:





AFTER:



filthy!!!




Will be having a go at removing the K1100 output shaft this weekend

don't forget ....drain all the oils-fluids  first ......don't ask !

Hi Floyd, going well there mate, keep at it you will end up with a unique Moto.

About the spline replacement part Rick referred to, I checked the post you linked and
he means the back end of the driveshaft, available from Motorworks and "Bins 
. Any competent engineering shop should be able to cut the old and weld on the new bit.
However get advice from your local forum mates as to who they would recommend.
Some blokes here are more than able but postage 2 ways is a consideration.
I volunteer since I am doing mine soon but as I say research local first.

I think all driveshafts have the same spline at the gearbox end but at some stage (Paralever maybe?) they
could have changed. Someone will jump down my throat if that's wrong, ha ha.

Ghost

Agree with Charlie, and yes don't ask!

Hi Gordo and Floyd, been looking at driveshafts lately as well. Local BMW dealer quoted me $950 for K75. A new rebuildable design sold by Munich Motorcycles is $530 with $15 freight to east coast. I like the look of the design of it. The rear end of the shaft is a blind hole so the issue of lube migrating up the hollow shaft that has been mentioned by a few on the web is not applicable, also the uni has a grease nipple fitted and rubber dampers are replaceable.

There looks to be the same item on the Motoworks site for 240 pounds plus freight. Link is below and on that page if you go to the larger image link you get an exploded view of the shaft components.

Rebuildable driveshaft

They're all very pricey but info may be of interest.
Cheers

Ghost who rides wrote:I think all driveshafts have the same spline at the gearbox end but at some stage (Paralever maybe?) they
could have changed. Someone will jump down my throat if that's wrong, ha ha.

Ghost

Not jumping down your throat but they are the same.  I've fitted a monolever backend to a paralever gearbox on one of my sidecars as I trust the strength of the mono more than the para. Straight swap.

Al

Yeah I knew that just saying at some point it would have changed.

Hey    LOOK!    German rat shite!

Ill accept all reasonable offers for these genuine brown nuggets.

  

Looks like I might not have to buy any new throttle body-to-engine rubber bitsies. 

Got 3 good ones from the 84RS and 1 good one from my stripped 86LT. That saves around 100 squid.




Nothing that a bit of silicon cant fix?



In all seriousness - you 'experienced' blokes  - do these 3 good ones look ok or is it the kind of thing that after all these years they should be replaced?

When I acquired my '85 K100RS I went through the bike, bringing the service up to date and decided the rubber bits between the throttle bodies and the head were "good enough." Big mistake.  I never was able to stop small intake leaks and the bike ran very erratically.  I solved the problem by fitting new ones.  That's no simply task, as the early bikes have little room to work in that area. It's especially frustrating if you're new to K-bikes.  That said, I suppose if you're working on the engine out of the frame, it may be a simple task.
I'm also a bit surprised that you plan to fit the later, larger throttle bodies on the engine with the 2-valve layout.  The rubber connectors are very different, and though I've never tried that mod, I'd be surprise if it is a good one.

And can someone please explain to me what the frigging deal is with the single use clamps on the inlet manifold rubbers?!?

brickrider wrote:When I acquired my '85 K100RS I went through the bike, bringing the service up to date and decided the rubber bits between the throttle bodies and the head were "good enough." Big mistake.  I never was able to stop small intake leaks and the bike ran very erratically.  I solved the problem by fitting new ones.  That's no simply task, as the early bikes have little room to work in that area. It's especially frustrating if you're new to K-bikes.  That said, I suppose if you're working on the engine out of the frame, it may be a simple task.
I'm also a bit surprised that you plan to fit the later, larger throttle bodies on the engine with the 2-valve layout.  The rubber connectors are very different, and though I've never tried that mod, I'd be surprise if it is a good one.

Gday brickrider. Thanks for the bit about the intake leaks, guess at this stage I may as well just get the new rubber manifolds.

I have read in several places about the small, yet significant gains when fitting K1100 throttle bodies to a K100...They are more or less identical except for 1 or 2 mm wider throats in the K1100 units I believe. 

Check out https://www.k100-forum.com/t1944-k1100-throttle-bodies-on-a-k100 for as start...

Also, when doing this mod you use the stock K100 inlet manifolds, because your correct in saying that they inlet system on the K1100 is very different, with the injectors being mounted in the rubber manifolds themselves on the K1100. 

Now I need to check if using the K1100 or K100 air box bits is the way to go...?

Im ordering a list of parts from motobins.....and Im about 45 seconds away from pulling the trigger on an outrageously expensive "oil proof" clutch friction plate....

tell me why I shouldnt.....or should?

I would only order one if I was expecting a major oil leak from the rear seal.  However you are planning to travel some out of the way places, so could be a smart option.

floyd_of_oz wrote:And can someone please explain to me what the frigging deal is with the single use clamps on the inlet manifold rubbers?!?

My guess is to reduce assembly time/cost.

Ghost who rides wrote:Hi Floyd, going well there mate, keep at it you will end up with a unique Moto.

About the spline replacement part Rick referred to, I checked the post you linked and
he means the back end of the driveshaft, available from Motorworks and "Bins 
. Any competent engineering shop should be able to cut the old and weld on the new bit.
However get advice from your local forum mates as to who they would recommend.
Some blokes here are more than able but postage 2 ways is a consideration.
I volunteer since I am doing mine soon but as I say research local first.

I think all driveshafts have the same spline at the gearbox end but at some stage (Paralever maybe?) they
could have changed. Someone will jump down my throat if that's wrong, ha ha.

Ghost

Ahhhh of course, thanks Ghost.....  

I wouldn't bother with an "oilproof" clutch plate.

Here's why:

1) A leaky rear main seal will not oil the clutch friction surfaces.  It is in front of the clutch basket so oil will drip down the back of motor and drain out the weep hole.

2) A clutch nut O-ring CAN oil the clutch surface but it takes a while as the leak gets worse. You need deal with it fairly soon after seeing oil at the weep hole.  I once bought a bike with a leaking O-ring. I rode it home about 1,500 miles and the clutch friction surfaces still hadn't been oiled when I got it home and took it apart.

duck wrote:I wouldn't bother with an "oilproof" clutch plate.

Here's why:

1) A leaky rear main seal will not oil the clutch friction surfaces.  It is in front of the clutch basket so oil will drip down the back of motor and drain out the weep hole.

2) A clutch nut O-ring CAN oil the clutch surface but it takes a while as the leak gets worse. You need deal with it fairly soon after seeing oil at the weep hole.  I once bought a bike with a leaking O-ring. I rode it home about 1,500 miles and the clutch friction surfaces still hadn't been oiled when I got it home and took it apart.

'Cheers mate, great points.

Do most of you tend to opt for the genuine item of the after market option?

Mmmmmm oily....





New clutch friction plate high on the agenda - any consensus? OEM vs Pattern? 


Preparing to get fork lowers, triples and the belly pan blasted and powder coated black. 
Was also just going to do the frame in black, or use the 86LT frame as its paint is in pretty good shape....but i dunno....lately im feeling the deep urge to do a red powder coated frame. 

All other engine cases (not the head or block), swing arm, foot peg brackets etc in clear coat - Thinking of giving the DIY soda blast and Diamond Coat option ala Halo. 

Any members had a clear powder coat before? Wondering what would be cheaper/better value - DIY clearcoat or clear powder coat... ?

I've always just used OEM clutch plates. In fact one has just arrived.

Clear coat on the engine cases can be problematic. If it isn't proof against the heat it's likely to yellow.

An enamel clear coat will be robust enough to cope with the heat on the covers but then you have the problem of chipping. Unlike with a colour coat you probably won't notice that it's chipped or split until those nasty little tendrils of oxidisation spread under the coating.

Polishing bare aluminium covers is possible but then you'll be forever re-polishing. Cleaning back to a near original finish is possible, a bit time consuming and you need to be careful not to be too aggressive and mark them but they'll be easier to keep clean.

Alternatively, paint them. Use a silver or aluminium enamel if you want to keep it as near original as possible. 

Or, as BMW mixed and matched a bit, you could use a satin black enamel (my preferred choice every time).

I'm in the process of building-up a couple of coats on mine:



The last ones I did were on a K75:

ooooooh la la - look at what I just got!

What a beautiful thing, very excited about this acquisition...

Any Sydney members able to recommend an injector cleaning service?

Local guys (Marrickville) wanted $35/injector and a mob (who look better to me) out at Seven Hills say $25. Dunno if I want to drive out to Seven Hills twice tho...

OK, quick update.

The 84RS is stripped down to its engine. I will duck out to the farm this week end and collect my previously soda blasted engine cases including the head/crank/timing covers, the oilpan/sump as well as the oil/water pump off the 86LT. They are all in much nicer shape and will require far less work cleaning up. 

Also need to get another drive shaft and the final drive off the 86LT from the farm. A few other bits and bobs too im sure. 

So, here is the current priority list:
- remove output shaft from K1100
- Install 1100 output shaft in 84RS engine
- Re-do oil/water pump (seals etc)
- Install new timing chain/guides etc
- Install engine seal kit
- Install gearbox seal kit
- clean injectors and throttle bodies
- Paint engine covers w/ high temp engine enamel 



Will be taking the following to the powder coaters next week:
- the triple trees (black)
- the lower fork legs (black)
- swing arm (aluminium/silver)
- footpeg mounts  (aluminium/silver)
- clutch bell housing (aluminium/silver)
- frame (red or black) [maybe ill hold til the last minute to get the frame done]



I sure am enjoying having all the funds allocated to this project and just getting stuck into it, ordering parts as required etc. not being held up by funds is very liberating. 


Bought the RAM shock pictured above, anyone got experience with the RAM fork springs vs the K1100 stock springs?

Also have about $1500 worth of parts from motobins waiting to be fitted! yay!  

duck wrote:

floyd_of_oz wrote:And can someone please explain to me what the frigging deal is with the single use clamps on the inlet manifold rubbers?!?

My guess is to reduce assembly time/cost.

Wonder why they only decided to save assembly time/money on the clamps around the throttle bodies....the cooling system etc is full of normal clamps. Wonder if it has some kind of engineering explanation...?


Any Aussies found a good reusable alternative?

What is the name of the tool?

floyd wrote:- Install 1100 output shaft in 84RS engine

Beware that it's a different bearing and shims used.
Could be a idea to have a early model bearing at hand, and some shims.

floyd wrote:
Wonder why they only decided to save assembly time/money on the clamps around the throttle bodies....the cooling system etc is full of normal clamps. Wonder if it has some kind of engineering explanation...?


Any Aussies found a good reusable alternative?

What is the name of the tool?

Another reason to use the one time clamps, is the limited space available...I would Guess.

Some here on the forum have found Suzuki clamps of the correct size...use the search function.

Tool: search Oetiker clamp pliers.

Inge K. wrote:Some here on the forum have found Suzuki clamps of the correct size...use the search function.

Thanks Inge.

Here is the post with information regarding the Suzuki clamps that can be used on K throttle body manifold rubbers. Thanks to Alexander McCarthy for that one!

"As promised I'm sharing the part numbers for those pesky re-usable clamps which secure the throttle body to the air box and cylinder head. They're all black, and come in two different sizes (48mm and 46mm), part numbers 09402-48208 and 09402-46208 respectively.

Hopefully this will helps someone who's re-building their baby in the future."

Just a heads up Floyd,
Last time I tried the 48208 (48mm) clamps were not available so I used the 46mm.

Works just fine.

Absolute pain to get them in the right spot so you don't interfere with any of the throttle mechanism.

$8.00 EACH

rossko wrote:Just a heads up Floyd,
Last time I tried the 48208 (48mm) clamps were not available so I used the 46mm.

Works just fine.

Absolute pain to get them in the right spot so you don't interfere with any of the throttle mechanism.

$8.00 EACH

Cheers mate

http://www.shearwatermc.com.au/find/fiche/114964/M.338147

#10 - $6.20

8 ordered  

I think that the reason for the type of clips used on the throttle rubbers is that they act as a spring clip, maintaining pressure when the rubbers age and shrink.

You'll find that the screw type clamps will probably need re-tightening after a period.

Paul.

Enjoying this thread  

Scott,
I use these for TB clamp.  They are manufactured for auto CV Joint boots.  I find the width of the clamp is spot on for the factory one time clamp. Adjustable pipe clamps in US are too wide to fit properly... top is new, bottom is factory original

Grrr first snag hit....

Have been trying to remove the sump and then out put shaft assembly from the 84RS...

Both of the 'internal' oil/water mounting bolts had seized, the heads ended up rounding out, and I had to drive new 'flat head' grooves into the head and use a small hand held impact driver to get them out.

Then all but 1 of the various bolts holding the sump on came out fine. The last one is totally seized and the hex head is juuust starting to distort....

Its one of the big ones that go either side of the output shaft, on the inside of the sump.

My Allen bits for the impact driver aren't long enough to get down in there but my flat head one is....I have spare bolts, should I just smack in a new slot to allow the flat head bit in and drive it out with the impact driver? Seems a bit dramatic but I dont have access to any other tools...

Try hammering a torx bit into the hole and if that don't work drill the head off the bolt then get the remainders out after the sump is off.

In my experience "rounding" out the allen head bolts is because I neglected to clean out the muck
before fitting the key and Bingo! Half engagement and heaps of torque results in rounded out.
A couple of minutes with a small bladed screwdriver beforehand gives full engagement and the desired result.

BMW use quality bolts, clean out the sockets and you should be OK , or blame the PO.

Does any body have any experience of, or better yet, experience AND photographs of a K100RS fairing fitted with K100LT handle bars?

Interesting option for a cheap, good top box...

Bunnings - Pelican Cargo Case

Bunings - Pelican Case Large

about as stylish as .....now, you know what i'm going to say here .....   a blue plastic "brick "...giggles