Bugger it, Ill just order a set of these...





Anyone of you poms got a thousand quid you can lend me? You know, just til I can post you some Aussie dollars....

The back ports go into the TBs above the butterflys so don't start to get any vacuum till the throttle starts to open and even then don't get a very high vacuum.
Having the back ports linked would do almost nothing towards a smooth running engine if they are linked because in theory they should be getting the same vacuum level and so would not flow any air.
The ports at the front are for the purpose of reading the vacuum to balance the air flow and get a smooth idle and there is no way that such small openings could affect the engine at speeds above an idle. The vacuum drops of as the throttle is opened until at WOT the vacuum at front and rear ports are for all intents and purposes the same.
To me the idea that a smoother running engine is possible from linking the ports is not good thinking because the best way to get a smooth running engine is to get all the vacuum readings equal and so what do you need to link them for.

RicK G wrote:The back ports go into the TBs above the butterflys so don't start to get any vacuum till the throttle starts to open and even then don't get a very high vacuum.
Having the back ports linked would do almost nothing towards a smooth running engine if they are linked because in theory they should be getting the same vacuum level and so would not flow any air.
The ports at the front are for the purpose of reading the vacuum to balance the air flow and get a smooth idle and there is no way that such small openings could affect the engine at speeds above an idle. The vacuum drops of as the throttle is opened until at WOT the vacuum at front and rear ports are for all intents and purposes the same.
To me the idea that a smoother running engine is possible from linking the ports is not good thinking because the best way to get a smooth running engine is to get all the vacuum readings equal and so what do you need to link them for.

Ahhhhh Sensei - all that was murky has now become clear. 

The little black rubber caps shall once more be reunited with their brass tubes. All is well in the world - as I have already ordered new black caps from the bins a week or so back

Thanks Bunnings - $1.70.

another day, another dilema....

The K1100 ignition/key switch thingy thats mounted to the top triple clamp hangs down waaay to far for me to mount the K100RS front fairing/headlight bracket....hmmmm what to do what to do....

I recall someone cutting that part off and using the K100 switch pad and ignition lock.

RicK G wrote:I recall someone cutting that part off and using the K100 switch pad and ignition lock.

Any idea how to undo those weird security screw things?

You drill the head off

RicK G wrote:You drill the head off

Well, that is rather secure then isnt it...

done...

AL-58 wrote:

floyd wrote:hmmm

how does one extract an apparently seized piston from a K1100 front master cylinder?....

Do I detect several more hundred dollars leaving my bank account in the near future?.....

Mine wasn't extremely seized, but i boiled it for a while to breake up the crystallised brake fluid.  Piston then came out easy.

Al

Damn....

Boiling didnt work, a bicycle tyre pump as a compressor didnt work, everything else I have wont work...

I dont own a compressor but maybe can get access to one....

But regardless....I just called about getting it re sleeved to a mob in Lismore that do a fair bit of this...
20mm stainless = $185!!

+ a rebuild kit, plus a new rubber sleeve, plus a new sight glass thingy (of you can get them), plus a rattle can of black paint.....certainly adds up.

I think Ill have to take the brand new route. Beemerboneyard do it for $USD 240. Thats nearly $300 (AU + shipping) I wasnt planning on spending, but I was budgeting for a rebuild kit and everything else excluding the resleeve - so Im really only $100 over budget and Ill have a brand new front master cylinder....

You have removed the small stop screw for the piston at the side of the cylinder?

Inge K. wrote:You have removed the small stop screw for the piston at the side of the cylinder?

Inge....mate....

I know I have made some school boy errors before now, but I can proudly say that this ain't one...

riiiiight, so Im feeling pretty lazy about cleaning the exhaust in any meaningful way. Im not particularly interested in shiny things so the concept of polishing it for hours seems like the definition of insanity.

Now, some of you will scoff at me no doubt, but this is my bike and in the words of Eric Cartman, whatever whatever I do what I want. 

Think I might get it ceramic coated. Keep in mind Im saying that with no idea of cost, so we'll see. Any of you Aussies had it done?


Whats my next question I hear you ask with rabid excitement?...

To heat shield, or not to heat shield - that is the next question. 

I have a few Bangkok tattoos (muffler burns to those who dont travel) and have naturally learnt to be weary of exhausts (my best effort was veeery embarrassing....I hit the starter on a mates Duc 888 without checking it was in neutral after a long ride. Wrestling a very heavy bike to stop it hitting the ground while your calf flesh cooking is an experience difficult to forget...)

Anyways...the mounts are buggered. Should I bother fixing it? Its not it a particularly 'dangerous' location or anything....

No

Ceramic coating might prove to be expensive.  The pipes have to be coated on both sides (and not just the outside) and that means cleaning out the ancient dirt and carbon.  That part of the process might be a price killer, but you'll have to discuss it with the company who's going to do the job.

Yes, consider restoring the mounts. The reason you want the heat shield is to reduce the risk that the hot muffler will damage the saddle bags. The bags have known to be melted if the shield is missing, but not 100% guarantee that this disaster will happen if it is not there.  There is a kit available and the process is not hard. You only ned to repair the broken ones. You might be able to McGiver the job by sourcing the threaded inserts locally and coming up with appropriate spacer washers.

robmack wrote:Ceramic coating might prove to be expensive.  The pipes have to be coated on both sides (and not just the outside)

Didnt know that about the ceramic coating. Do they dip it?


Anyone got a proper name for those little rivet-like expanding screw things?

Do you mean popnuts?

K-rider

k-rider wrote:Do you mean popnuts?

K-rider

That sounds nasty

Nutserts

Have to be careful.  The BMW ones are sealed at the bottom; the link you gave are open-ended.

robmack wrote:Have to be careful.  The BMW ones are sealed at the bottom; the link you gave are open-ended.

Yeah I think a variety are available. Do you reckon it would really matter though?

If you have some thread right through they get a nice coating of carbon and can jamb coming out.

floyd wrote:

robmack wrote:Ceramic coating might prove to be expensive.  The pipes have to be coated on both sides (and not just the outside)

Didnt know that about the ceramic coating. Do they dip it?

I'm wrong about coating the inside.  I was thinking of the chroming process, not ceramic coating process.  Ceramic coating is sprayed on the outside only so it's not going to be expensive, like chroming would be.

Hi Floyd, motorworks have mastercylinders for $233 AU plus delivery, but you probably already know this.

Garyk100 wrote:Hi Floyd, motorworks have mastercylinders for $233 AU plus delivery, but you probably already know this.

Got a link?

Cant find it. There is UK motorworks and they have it for about 250 pounds.

Motorworks Aus (the one i Can find) dont do beemers.

Munich motorcycles in Aus have it for like $400AU or something crazy.

For a front M/C and a rear M/C rebuild kit (my 12mm rear M/C seems fine. A light hone should do it) from Beemer, delivered, was $360. Postage was about $60. Wish I found this local one first!

try this link
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_40_IA_40

Floyd,

Muffler repair kit.

HERE

Gary, I think Floyd has an 1100 front cylinder?

Cheers Rossko,

Yeah Gaz, I have a K1100 front end. The K1100 M/C at motorworks is 233 pounds undelivered. Quite a bit more then from the states.



Just called about ceramic coating the exhaust system.....$350. Think Ill be borrowing an angle grinder instead. Unless Duck convinces me of the marvels of ceramic coating.

Complete 1100lt front end Inc mc $500.

Jamie has it

floyd

just be aware that we dont pay the extra tax stuff from the uk ...usually there is listed a "full price " and an "ex vat price " for which is the figure for us folks

cheers !

AL-58 wrote:Complete 1100lt front end Inc mc $500.

Jamie has it

I see it's listed on ebay with starting bid $300.00. Get your M/cylinder and a mile of spares.

So it turns of that cleaning up stainless isnt that difficult if you have the right goop...yay!

Now, my 85LT muffler that I plan to use (with the later style footpeg brackets) has the busted heat shield mounts and didnt come with the heat shield when I purchased the doner bikes.

It has holes through the stainless underneath where each mounts was/is. Is this stock? Im doubting it is....What to do what to do...

On a slightly different note, tell me what battery to buy.

6 years ago I put a Panasonic LC-X1228AP UPS battery in my outfit.  It's still working great, park the bike for a couple of months, it always starts.

So I had no problem buying another for the 16V.  It's a smidgen higher that the stock 28AH battery, but not by much. This last one cost $175 at my local Battery world shop(with the Useless-sissie discount   ). 


Al

Are these holes in my 85 exhaust from the factory? There is one for each heat shield mount...





Maybe some toss just used tek screws or something to hold the heat shield on...

Damn....I was only using this exhaust so I could easily use the newer 85 onwards footpeg mounts. This 85 exhaust didnt come with a heat shield, but the 83 exhaust had the orignal one still attached. I drilled it off the other day to put on this one but have since realised the pain in the arse that is repairing the mounts.....

Ok, so plan be. Adapt the 83 exhaust to the 85 footpeg mounts. Shouldnt be to hard and may only require a new hole drilled...

I would guess the first Flloyd, is that the better one of the bunch?

groverK wrote:I would guess the first Flloyd, is that the better one of the bunch?

Nah not really, just the one that would have bolted directly on with the newer footpeg mounts.

I have already taken the other exhausts to one of my squirl storage dens throughout the east coast, as my 'workshop' space is incredibly limited. But inevitably, each time I take shit away to store, I end up needing it a week later....

Lucky Ill be heading back up to Dural this weekend to meet up with Al anyways, so its not a total waste of a long drive...

Yes...thats just a 'gun' in my pocket...

Anyone ever seen a skid/bash plate fitted to a K bike?

Need to fabricate one of these + a radiator/fuel cooler shield + heat light guard....

floyd wrote:Anyone ever seen a skid/bash plate fitted to a K bike?

Need to fabricate one of these + a radiator/fuel cooler shield + heat light guard....

Too lazy to look it up.
Recent post, today yesterday about relocating ignition.

Thee is a GS k75 with a bash plate. Look at the posted links.

Middle photo in this posting shows a home-made plate attached to the oil pan.

Thanks Rob.

See I care.

I just dont care a lot.

Floyd, as for the holes in the 85 muffler, can't you get a welder to weld over the holes to seal them up and then grind down the welds flush with the surface?  The muffler is stainless so it should look good in the end.  Or maybe get them to weld on threaded bushings to allow the shield to stand off the muffler.  Make them 3-5mm and M6 x 0.75 there should be enough thread to catch a bolt.

robmack wrote:Floyd, as for the holes in the 85 muffler, can't you get a welder to weld over the holes to seal them up and then grind down the welds flush with the surface?  The muffler is stainless so it should look good in the end.  Or maybe get them to weld on threaded bushings to allow the shield to stand off the muffler.  Make them 3-5mm and M6 x 0.75 there should be enough thread to catch a bolt.

The wleding idea would work, but idea 2 wont unfortunately. Thats what I thought at first, but the holes dont line up exactly with the heat shield holes.

I will investigate my 83 muffler this weekend, and if its as simple as i think (drill a new hole in the mount on the muffler) then thats the cheapest (FREE) and easiest option.

Well, I was thinking, since all the holes are sealed, don't penetrate the muffler's exterior when welding on the bushings; weld them to the surface.  They would have a 3-5mm depth, stopped at the end.  Use the holes in the shield to locate the bushings' positions for welding.  Use metric fine threads to get as many threads in 3mm as possible.

Just tossing out the ideas for contemplation.

Floyd, you have probably seen this bike on the net already but if not check out these photos. Sump bash plate on it looks the same as the one on Robmack's post.

German K75GS

Cheers

Hmmm some good stuff there to ponder over

Have a look at this;

https://www.k100-forum.com/t3210-sump-guard-for-lt?highlight=sump+guard

Paul.