about as stylish as .....now, you know what i'm going to say here .....   a blue plastic "brick "...giggles

charlie99 wrote:about as stylish as .....now, you know what i'm going to say here .....   a blue plastic "brick "...giggles

Charlie, Im building a K bike....it should be perfectly obvious im not concerned by 'style'    

Good inexpensive top box?

Givi E26

Or you could go even cheaper with a Rubbermaid container, or maybe not....(worked well on my KLR)

floyd wrote:

charlie99 wrote:about as stylish as .....now, you know what i'm going to say here .....   a blue plastic "brick "...giggles

Charlie, Im building a K bike....it should be perfectly obvious im not concerned by 'style'    

touche there Floyd

got love the old "k"s mate
happy days

Had a fairly productive weekend.

Cleaned up lots of parts and generally sorted a few things out - moved parts around from one storage shed to another....

A few items cleaned up so well (for the purposes of this project) that they will be scratched off the paint/powdercoat list. Just used a big plastic tub and some Diggers degreaser concentrate, diluted with water and some dish washing brushes and scouring pads. Followed with a bit of some citrusy frothing foaming degreaser in a spray can that works a treat. 

Unfortunately, the 3 main engine cases havnt responded as well to the above cleaning method, so off to the soda blaster they go. Around $100 to get them all done, then ill be hitting them with 'Gibbs Brand Lube' which was recommended by Kyle10 in this post. 



Seems like wonderful stuff, albeit slightly expensive @ $28/can - but the importer reckons a little goes a looong way and wouldnt sell me more then 1 rattle can when I explained what Im up to. It seems to be (among other things) and kind of linseed-oil-on-timber equivalent for raw metals. Im going to use it the entire engine, footpeg mounts, gearbox, clutch housing, rear drive etc.


Another slightly unfortunate occurrence - I failed to pay attention to the placement of the 3 shims inside the gearbox cover. Will have to do a bit of measuring and calculating to get things all back together again, but should be fairly straight forward and Im sure to learn a bit. 


Very happy with how this stuff has cleaned up:










K1100 Triple Trees - Do not need repainting - woohoo!


Same with the forks!

Also managed to get a trip out to the farm in this last weekend (well, did this on Friday actually). 

Picked up lots of goodies and dropped off some stuff that I dont need for this project. 

Got the 1986 K100LT final drive and drive shaft (about 150,000kms according to the instruments) Will post picks of drive shaft later, but will do for now I reckons.

Lucky, as the other RS final drives are shagged AND the LT was the one I really wanted due to its ratio. Yay!

duck wrote:Good inexpensive top box?

Givi E26

Looks nice Duck.

Im after something a bit bigger though, something to carry all my cooking gear, food, beer etc and other misc shite while on the long road. 

Currently planning on fabricating a rack that will clamp directly to the subframe, and then a large top box will bolt to it. possibly even with some lugs fitted into its lid so other things can be strapped on in times of spacial desperation. 

I envision it coming out partially over the panniers. looked at one in the shop the other day that was about 700x300x300 and look to be just what im after....

we shall see....

a little wear on that one Floyd ....but should see you through many kilometres

good to have a better looking one

If you're going single seat, there is a rare Aussie made topbox that gives you heaps of space. It was made for the K series ambo bikes used instead of the police radio box.  It went full width over the full-sized panniers, they were made so the ambulance bikes could carry more gear like an Oxy-viva bottle set.

Ambulance bikes are pretty rare and those top boxes are just as rare.  I found one once but the seller wanted an extortionate amount even though he realised I was probably the only buyer.

I'm looking but cant find a photo at all.

Al

this one, courtesy of the Kiwis.


it would have to be a fibreglass shell, do think Al.

Yep they are fibreglass, limited production run by the mob in Tamworth that used to do the F150 ambulance bodies.

Al

Jakab I think.

groverK wrote:this one, courtesy of the Kiwis.

Blimey, a System II helmet. Haven't seen one for ages.

groverK wrote:Jakab I think.

Thats the one, couldn't remember the name.

Al

Flloyd ,have you thought about moulding something yourself , to meet your needs.

Im after something a bit bigger though, something to carry all my cooking gear, food, beer etc and other misc shite while on the long road. 

Ideally you want to put your heavy stuff as low and as far forward as possible.  Putting a lot of heavy stuff high and to the rear adversely impacts handling.

Try the old square GIVI top box and paniers they have a 45 ltr top box that will do also as a panier. I have a 45 ltr top box and 36 ltr paniers. They are squarish and not round as are the newer ones and can double as an eski, tough as old boots. Cant find any on fleabay at the moment but they usually go for about $150 for a top box in mint and $150 to $200 for paniers in excellent to mint

I have a Kappa top box. Supposedly, Kappa is made by GIVI but is at least 30% cheaper.

http://www.kappamoto.com/index-en.php

duck wrote:

Im after something a bit bigger though, something to carry all my cooking gear, food, beer etc and other misc shite while on the long road. 

Ideally you want to put your heavy stuff as low and as far forward as possible.  Putting a lot of heavy stuff high and to the rear adversely impacts handling.

have to agree after our run to Far Kairn, I had a lot of weight up high at the tail end , and it gave me the speed wobbles, on the bends.

Yay! Spline lube and locktite arrived in the post! Took fricken ages though...

Thanks to RickG for recommending me this stuff.

groverK wrote:

duck wrote:

Im after something a bit bigger though, something to carry all my cooking gear, food, beer etc and other misc shite while on the long road. 

Ideally you want to put your heavy stuff as low and as far forward as possible.  Putting a lot of heavy stuff high and to the rear adversely impacts handling.

have to agree after our run to Far Kairn, I had a lot of weight up high at the tail end , and it gave me the speed wobbles, on the bends.

Completely agree with you both, and certainly want as much weight as low and forward as possible. 

My current train of thought on luggage is a bit of a pain really. Although in all honesty im being slightly pre-emptive here - im not going to need the luggage for quite some time, and by then I will have a clearer picture of exactly what my requirements will be.

The biggest challenge so far is the fact that it is unclear weather I will be travelling solo or 2 up. However even if solo, there will be times when looong trips 2 up will be called for, and I do want the flexibility of having enough space so that with a bit of repacking and re organising, the bike can be very quickly re-setup for 2 people travelling a long way on far out roads - rather than just 1 - if that makes sense...

So in a solo situation the large top box would mostly empty and I would have my sleeping gear strapped to the pillion.

Also, this project was initiated with the intention of building a sidecar rig - and my original ideas of what equipment I would travel with were obviously vastly different then they are now.

Anyways, the point is I dont need a top box yet and Im still trying to figure out what the best configuration for all my/our gear would be. (gotta have something to think about at work)

I just walked into the hardware store the other day and saw this enormous assortment of Pelican brand, very rugged cases of all sizes for a reasonable price that would be ideal 'flexible' storage units and I got excited. They even do ones that would make fantastic top opening panniers.

I have ordered one of these off fleabay. 

Dunno how it will fit, if at all, but cheap cheap ...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oxford-Universal-Top-Box-44-litres-/190781412223?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6b75537f&_uhb=1

floyd wrote:Does any body have any experience of, or better yet, experience AND photographs of a K100RS fairing fitted with K100LT handle bars?

I'm hoping someone posts a picture of this... 

good buy , there Flloyd , looks roomy.

What did Floyd buy? Did I miss something? Wouldn't be the first time mind you.

Ghost who rides wrote:What did Floyd buy? Did I miss something? Wouldn't be the first time mind you.

I think Grover is referring to the big ass Pelican cargo cases at Bunnings that would be a good buy. Havnt bought one yet, and wont until I have an assembled motorcycle to bolt it too!

Floyd,

From the damned-near-non-sequitur file: Traveling Cookware



The Muff Pot: Alton Brown used one on his series 'Feasting on Asphalt' and had high praise for it. Popular with snowmobilers, it clamps to the exhaust pipe utilizing its heat. He made '200 mile stew' with it (on an R-type, no less). Haven't purchased one for fear of social ostracism.




The Outback Oven: I've had mine for about a dozen years and love it. Pizza, scones, calzones, brownies, cobbler (with local berries)...if you can bake it you can with this clever device. Astonishes people on the trail when you pull out a chili/cornbread bake followed by cinnamon rolls. Invented by a couple who bicycle toured the globe. Melts snow in a flash (I was in mountain rescue).



I pack light. Found this out on my first real road trip, as I ended up jettisoning so much of what I thought was useful, necessary.

BEHOLD! 

The 12 rivet output shaft of a K1100!





And the standard 6 rivet that it will be replacing




Also, got the engine cases cleaned up a bit, awaiting a treatment with Gibbs Brand Lube

that six rivett doesnt look too bad Floyd .... have you checked for movement ?

but I guess better to do it now eh ?

RicK G wrote:Try hammering a torx bit into the hole and if that don't work drill the head off the bolt then get the remainders out after the sump is off.

Ended up pikcing up a set of Irwin Bolt Extractors to remove the stuck and rounded allen bolt inside the sump securing the output shaft.

Worked incredibly well! Highly highly recommended.

charlie99 wrote:that six rivett doesnt look too bad Floyd .... have you checked for movement ?

but I guess better to do it now eh ?

Yeah its pretty good charlie99, I just figured that while I was this deep in, I may was well change out a known weakness for the superior component. 

I see that as one of the huge advantages of these machines - most of the known weaknesses and design flaws are well recognised and can be resolved fairly easily and cheaply. Good fun too.

Great Weekend!

Sat: Removed output shafts from K1100 and the 84 K100RS.

Inge K wrote:Beware that it's a different bearing and shims used.
Could be a idea to have a early model bearing at hand, and some shims.

Right you are Sir. Need to go around to the friendly neighbourhood mechanic and ask to borrow a gear puller.


Sun: Did the timing chain and all guides etc change as well as adjusting the valves. Cam shafts needed to come out to facilitate this, which freaked me out at first, but was very straight forward. Almost encountered disaster when I misread a torque specification and way over tightened a nut, realised in the end though before it was to late. 

3 or 4 of the clearances were to tight and I had enough suitable shims to adjust all but 2 of them. Will have to source some shims in the next few days.

Before:



Before:







Slightly interesting observation - All my engine cases are stamped on the inside with '82' and are then restamped lightly with '84'.

Sun: Did the timing chain and all guides etc change as well as adjusting the valves. Cam shafts needed to come out to facilitate this, which freaked me out at first, but was very straight forward. Almost encountered disaster when I misread a torque specification and way over tightened a nut, realised in the end though before it was to late. 

You don't need to remove the camshafts to adjust the valves on a 2V,
use a wide flat bladed screwdriver to press the tappets down.....
insert the screwdriver sideways between the camshaft and tappet.

But of course the correct tools makes this task a whole lot easier.

Inge K. wrote:

Sun: Did the timing chain and all guides etc change as well as adjusting the valves. Cam shafts needed to come out to facilitate this, which freaked me out at first, but was very straight forward. Almost encountered disaster when I misread a torque specification and way over tightened a nut, realised in the end though before it was to late. 

You don't need to remove the camshafts to adjust the valves on a 2V,
use a wide flat bladed screwdriver to press the tappets down.....
insert the screwdriver sideways between the camshaft and tappet.

But of course the correct tools makes this task a whole lot easier.

Of course, but they need to come out to change the timing belt - at least I couldnt find another way, and RickG advised me that this is the case...

To change the timing chain you only need to undo the bolt that holds the sprocket on 
one of the camshafts.

Some years ago last time I did this.....it could be that I remember wrong......
but if you mount the the tensioner and it's guide as the last parts, it's no need
to disturb the sprocket(s) at all.

Did you get the shim tools and shims I snail mailed you Floyd? You haven't answered my PM.

RobinW wrote:Did you get the shim tools and shims I snail mailed you Floyd? You haven't answered my PM.

 Yeah sure did mate, did you get my PM?

DO these seals ever come in black like this? Or are they always red?

I didnt get an red O rings in my engine seal kit.....

These seem to fit....

Apparently I have been doing it the hard way. I found it difficult to get the orientation right when the cams were bolted down because they didn't want to sit where I placed them they would move.

red o rings have a nitrile ? component ...um usually ...
meaning they are made of some better than normal temperature resistant rubberish compound ...nothing wrong with the black ones ...(cause we have a great cooling system )  but the nitrile component is supposed to last well....... so the story goes

Use the red O-rings there they will stand up to the oil temp far better than the black nitrile which will harden and leak within 50000km.   The red O-rings are silicone and will stand up to 500°F.

Very busy period combined with a few minor set backs has slowed progress slightly.

Damaged my lower engine/output shaft cover (the sump bit) while removing it. No massive drama I thought, I have a nice new looking one of the 86 LT. Well, the changed the bearing and it wont fit. The 86 must have used the same bearing style as the K1100.

Will have to go and pull the case off the 85 RS at the farm and pray its the same as my 84....

Also, cant find the red O-rings for the bottom case to go back on (see above) in my engine seal kit so will have to source some else where....anyone?

Miss placed a very small yet very valuable box of bits from motobins! damn! it'll turn up....

what else...?



Anyone body know what paint the army use to do all their vehicles in olive drab? I want some...

any good bearing joint should be able to source some Floyd
don't give up hope

just take the new black ones along and ask the brightest looking one behind the bench ???
bugga to hear about the sump cover ...cheer up !

rejoice in the glory!

My brand spanking new RAM shock turned up the other day, and what a beautiful bit of kit it is. Cant wait to ride with this thing on. Combined with the K1100 front end, it should be rather nice indeed.

Also got the stainless steel engine bolt kit from desmoparts, which turned up yesterday. Very well packaged and bagged up with decent instructions - unlike alot of 'kits' from motobins such as the various seal kits they sell. 

Have a 2 week course that I am teaching a fair bit of starting this coming Sunday, so will be out at the farm the entire time. There is a big compressor and spray gear out there, so I think ill take the tank, front RS fairing and side covers and K1100 fender pieces out with me and paint them flat olive drab enamel. Will also take the frame with me and take it to the powder coaters in Mudgee (cheap) and get it done red

Red frame, olive drab tank etc, yellow Nolan helmet - Ill be the travelling Rastafarian on a K bike hehe  

kool runnings , Flloyd.

nice touch Floyd ...have fun

In tribute to Bob Marley & the Wailers?

Al

floyd wrote:
Red frame, olive drab tank etc, yellow Nolan helmet - Ill be the travelling Rastafarian on a K bike hehe  

New riding gear?



EBAY

AL-58 wrote:In tribute to Bob Marley & the Wailers?

Al

I think the beast just found its name