Thanks, Inge.

Looks like this is turning into a full-on winter project. Luckily, we have lots of winter-time here in Norway

Sounds like a good idea to turn this into a winter project, since this is a rather major task.

Then you got more time to do a proper job, and can check the valve guides and seats.

It is used stretch bolts at the cylinder head, they can be reused one or two times......
but normally this kind of bolts is a one time use if you follow the book.

Thanks, will do!

What are the specs for keeping these apart from obvious damage?

Don`t have any info on the cyl. head bolts used in our bikes.
What I said above is a general rule when stretch bolts is used.

Most manufacturers specifies one time use.
Others that they could be reused one time.
At last some have a very specific total length, which not should be exceeded.

It's been a long while since I paused work on the bike. Today, it's finally time to get her into the workshop and start dismantle.

Yesterday I took off the tank to drain it for fuel, and found that it's easiest to do through the plug where the 4-pin sockets enters.

Also found that the original color of the bike was blue, as the underside of the tank was coated with this...

And so begins the dismantling process.

So far, this includes:
- Engine and drivetrain overhaul
- New tires
- Test of the Electrical system + repairs
- New seat cover
- New fairing on the front - streetfighter style
- Clip-on handlebars

good to hear that your getting time to play with the bike .....enjoy !

i just wonder ....there are far better candidates for street fighter style,

but hey ! most of us in here like to see different things and how they turn out... and we love our "k"s

good luck

Thanks!

The primary reason for wanting to alter the front, is that the bike came with a round aftermarket headlight which I really don't like.

After having finished tidying up the garage, I spent the entire last night dismantling my brick.

So far I've gotten off the following:

- a very rusty seat (overhaul is impossible, need new or single seat)
- tail, lisence plate holder, inner mudguard
- tank
- battery

...
and discovered that the bike is full of dirt and rust. Nice and cozy winter project..

Good start Erman
hope to see the results in Spring/Summer.
Keep warm
RT

Got some pictures of yesterday's work:





Also got the wiring off, as well as onboard computer(s), airbox, and exhaust.

I note that there has not been any work done on the bike for maybe the last 10 years.
Oh, and there was definitely seepage of coolant into the cylinders...

Ok!

After having looked somewhat amazed at how some people have (modded becomes too weak a word for this) sculpted their bricks into new works of art, my brain hurts with all the impressions I'm left with.

So I'm considering the following:

- Clip-on bars (already ordered)
- small fairing on the front (mentioned many times)
- cutting the rear and putting on single seat
- digital speedo (acewell or similar)
- getting rid of the airbox (is this possible?) (why is the airflow meter so big?)
- rider footpegs only

Also:

- right hand sidestand... (impossible?)

I managed to sodablast some parts during the weekend, for reasons stated below:

- Rusty
- Prepping for new paint
- Dirty



I have this setup for blasting:

Hi Erman
that stuff looks excellent. What size compressor do you use to get that result?
Can't wait to see your finished machine
RT

RT wrote:Hi Erman
that stuff looks excellent. What size compressor do you use to get that result?
Can't wait to see your finished machine
RT

Thanks! It's a relatively small 3hp compressor with a 20 litre tank blasting away at 10 bar

Great progress Erman

Looking good now Erman...........Like that soda blasting.

Have I understood it correctly if I believe the air inlet sensor regulates the amount of fuel to add to the mixture - so that if I were to swap the stock airbox with a cone filter, the mixture would just adapt to the change?

Inside the top section of the air box there is a MAF (mass air flow) sensor which is sometimes refered to as a barn door type.
You must retain that sensor for the system to work. The barn door is only on the 8valve engines and not the 16valve.

You mean this here?

Yep thats the item. It meters the air going in.

Next question (of which there will be many):

Footrests!
More specifically, some type of universal or adjustable mountings. Is there anything out there, or do I have to fabricate? Worst case scenario that I'm considering, is to cut the bracket in half, but that will still not fit my height.

Reason:
The seat as it sits now, is completely useless. It's rotted out and quite ugly. I want to make a new single seat, lowering it in the process. With my 186 cm, the current setup is a no-go.

I need better equipment if want to get this brick back on the road, so I went and made this blasting cabinet from some junk I had lying around...





Christmas lights, glass from a picture frame, 2x filtered bathroom ventilators,
sleeves from an old jacket, furniture wheels.

Leftover media collects nicely in the bottom.

Total cost 75 $

woohoo ...good inventiveness

good luck !

Brilliant!

Good thinking Erman - I'm interested to know if the Christmas lights are bright enough when the dust starts flying.

88

88KE wrote:Good thinking Erman - I'm interested to know if the Christmas lights are bright enough when the dust starts flying.

88

The top lights are very bright, but the other strip turned out to be for decoration mostly. Luckily, the fans drain the dust out in a matter of seconds. It's just enough to clean a part and take it to the workbench. When I come back, the cabinet is clear again

I've done quite a lot of work during the weekend. Frame is off and sits by itself with all bolted-on parts removed.
Engine is lying on the workshop floor.

I stripped the front-right bolt which held the frame to the engine. Need to try to heat it later today. The plan is to drill the bolt, smooth out the crevice and use a nut+bolt combination when putting the bike together.

Also did the same to the swingarm bolt. Apparently, this one and the frame bolt have been in since the bike was built. A friend suggested cutting a slot and trying out an impact driver. Maybe I'll try heating it first...

Finally got the frame bolt out with an impact driver. Why on Earth did BMW design a threaded bolt on the right, and a bolt/nut combination on the other side?

So the swing arm bolt remains... I've been struggling with it for over a week now. Drilling doesn't work - seems like there is a steel core (?), cutting a slot for impact driver didn't work - the material was too soft for the torque needed to drive it out, heating didn't work.
I can only hope that a workshop can get it out now...

Erman when you say swingingarm bolt do you mean the alloy bolt on the left side that has a 6mm socket head and a thread of about 16mm if so don't try till you get more info it is very easily damaged and VERY easy to damage the gearbox casing beyond easy repair.

Thanks Rick,

It is indeed the left side bolt.
Sadly, I've already managed to strip the bolt. Luckily, the casing is intact.

Well so long as the case is still intact.
What happens is that the thread is very open at the back of the case between the swinging arm bearing and the case. Grease is always there and so grit collects and as you turn the bolt out it picks up on the thread and jams the bolt and damages the thread.
I got caught almost the first time I worked on a K and had to turn the bolt in as far as I could then get a saw into the gap which is wide enough and saw through the bolt then the swinging arm came out.
Once out it was easy to fix things from the oposite side and the bolt came out.
Its a good idea to put heaps of grease in the space after you put the arm back in that way the dirt usually wont get into the thread. When I pull them apart now I clean the grease out and wash the area with petrol and then blow the area dry with air and turn the bolt inwards when the right side has been released and can come out a bit. That way the thread can be cleaned better as a wider gap is present.
If you have not got it out yet I would try turning it in with the right side released then you may be able to get to the thread. Its not an easy job to get into the bolt but the priority is not damaging the thread in the case.

Thanks again, Rick!

I finally managed to get the bolt out yesterday. I can't go into details, as I may incriminate myself in mechanical bike violence.
The thread looks indeed like you describe it. I'll see if I can improve it when I put a new bolt in.

Also, I started on the carbs. First soda blasted, then coated with Eastwood Metal Protect.

Doing what I can to clean up the butterfly assembly:



Edit:
Changed the picture to the entire rack, cleaned and coated with metal protect.

The swingarm, cleaned and primed:

Nice steady progress Erman

Looking good. Love the results of the soda blasting.

GMcQ

Good one well done !

Finished cleaning and priming final drive and footrests.
I am really disappointed to say that one of the two allen-bolts keeping the rear brake disc to the final drive got stripped while trying to get it loose. Luckily, I don't have to redo the final drive at this point, as there is noe sign of failing gaskets or O-rings.

...................the brake disc screws is secured with Loctite,
and must be heated before removing.

Wow.. thanks, Inge, I'll try that!

Also, here is the soda blasted, but not primed gearbox

Does anyone know in which way the stock muffler baffles the exhaust so that they become equal length (pressure) or is it even relevant?

have a look here erman

this might explain

https://www.k100-forum.com/t3968p150-time-for-a-tidy-up#49651

Thanks a lot!

A wee question awaits you on your own thread

I didn't get the time to work too much on the bike yesterday. Mostly thinking out stuff and placing an order to Motobins.

Had to fix a waterleak into our establishment's beer cooler, and did a little upgrading on the sodablasting cabinet to keep the dust inside.
Soda is reusable 2-3 times, but produces much more dust after 1st use.

I also managed to get one of the 20kg bags of soda wet. I had to lay it out to dry. Kinda looks like a whole different setting in this photo... (think Tony Montana)

A few things since last update:

I got the color scheme set, but I don't want to divulge too much before lating the paint down

The torx screws keeping the intermediary engine cover to the engine blocks are stripped - all but 6 of them. So impossible to get that casing off now.
I suspected they may have been set with thred locking compound, but the ones I got out showed no signs of this.

After looking at the water pump and exhaust ports, I noticed blue gel-like substance. WTF?

1 - Speaking of which, the said blue gel:



I propose that it's coolant after being in contact with fuel...

2 - Another odd feature I noticed while looking at the engine's innards, the welded-on timing chain gear lower post:



Wonder what forces could have caused this...

3 - Engine parts cleaned for paint. Notice a very small dent on the right side cover.



4 - Engine and frame being soda blasted in the makeshift blasting chamber for large objects:






I've now rotated the engine to the triangle mark at the hall sensor, and I believe this is TDC right? If I remove the timing chain and valve block this way, I assume the timing will not be affected.

Speaking of which, the said blue gel:

Could it be Hylomar sealant?

Mike

mike d wrote:

Speaking of which, the said blue gel:

Could it be Hylomar sealant?

Mike

No, I don't think so. Haven't used Hylo Blue this time around.

take note if the cam gearwheels marks are in the verticle up or down position...if in the up position it is tdc on number 1 ....if down it is tdc on number 4 (look at the valves if they are rocking to identify the correct rotation ) hope that helps ...

charlie99 wrote:take note if the cam gearwheels marks are in the verticle up or down position...if in the up position it is tdc on number 1 ....if down it is tdc on number 4 (look at the valves if they are rocking to identify the correct rotation ) hope that helps ...

Thanks!

Small update for tonight; got the engine and gearbox spray painted in black Bill Hirsch Engine enamel. Will lay on a second layer today...