Hey guys,

Instead of making posts with absurdly retarded questions about my K100, I thought it would be a better idea to create a blog where I can share some of the experiences and challenges on the way to getting it running again.

I'm considering a complete rebuild coming winter, and this will be an archive of sorts

From my experience trying to restore an old XJ, progress can be slow. Thus the title for the post, he he.

I like your concept Erman.

But whats wrong with absurdly retarded questions......its the only thing i'm good at. Oh and dumb looks.

Good luck with the blog.

Why not there are a few here that have done/are doing it and they are good reading for many a new member and I dare say the many hundreds who lurk here.

Go for it Erman...I'll be reading it!!!

88KE

Thanks a lot! The first update is already here:

The bike is originally a 1984 K100RS, but the PO has taken the front fairing off and sold it before I bought the bike.
He'd experimented with LED turnsignals on the front, but these did not work. I opted to put on bulb blinkers from my Seca as a temporary option.

The first thing I did, was to examine the bike for wear etc. Occasional dripping from the obvious locations on engine, but working electronics and unknown condition of oils and coolant. Not to mention squeeky brakes.

I even got to riding it for a little while, whilst waiting for parts. Before the first parcel came in, it decided to quit on me

Oil is now drained, and I've put new sealant and o-ring on the bottom pan - hoping that it will hold oil better than before.
Also, new crank breather hose, new air/oil filter are also in.Currently waiting for new shiny bits from Motoworks, and an 18mm ig.plug socket.

Next up, I'll have to check/fix the oil leak from the clutch. I could probably benefit from changing the rear wheel, but I want the bike running before I do that.

Finally, there are the cosmetic changes: round cruiser headlight on the front (which I want to replace with a small fairing), new seat cover, fresh paint, new decals, deep cleaning.

Stay tuned...

It's all good progress Erman - glad to see you're getting stuck in!
88KE

Small update:

Still waiting for parts. Our customs people do a magnificent job at stopping and checking everything with a value of NOK 200,- (20£ or 32$). Delaying the delivery by 2-3 days and adding 30% to the final paid price.

So I haven't gotten to checking the spark plugs, thus coming along at diagnosing my starting troubles, just yet...

Good start Erman those bits will help with the engine running smoothly. The leak in the clutch my be the oring that goes between the engine output shaft and the clutch flywheel you will want to keep an eye out for this as the clutch on mine started spinning with the oil on the clutch pad.

Halo wrote:Good start Erman those bits will help with the engine running smoothly. The leak in the clutch my be the oring that goes between the engine output shaft and the clutch flywheel you will want to keep an eye out for this as the clutch on mine started spinning with the oil on the clutch pad.

Thanks! I did actually get a spare oil seal from the PO. I got intermittent dripping, which I've stopped by tucking some tissue paper in the affected area, but the plan is to drain the clutch oil, change the oil seal, and hopefully get it back together.

During last week, I've received ig.plug tool and new gaskets. These were promptly changed. I also went and bought new gear oil and coolant.
Some pictures of the bike below:



When I filled coolant, I noticed a leak from this small peephole... oh boy!

Time for a water/oil pump overhaul........I`ll guess it have been running for some time w/o coolant, when it leaks like this while just trying to add coolant.

yep its broke .....

get "the kit" erman

you will be pulling the shaft from the oil pump as well durring the process , and i think the later style impeller does a good job any how .

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t886-oil-water-pump-rebuild?highlight=water+pump

Thanks guys!
I had a bad feeling when I opened the coolant drain hole, and only 4-5 dl came out

I was going to ask whether it would be difficult to dismantle the water/oil pump assy, but judging from the videos and the guide, it should be easy enough.

The only trap is the bolts, a couple of them are not very easy to see especially when there is the usual coating of oily dirt. Make sure you clean the hex head out before you try anything as you eed the full depth to get the needed grip.

Nice machine herman, all the help you need is one this forum, That rear shock is a good peice of kit.



BIG D

Interesting placement of the front indicators

rossco wrote:Interesting placement of the front indicators

I know

PO had the fairing removed and sold before I acquired the bike. Said he was planning on converting the bike into a street fighter. I mounted a pair of rear blinkers from my Seca as a temporary solution. Ultimately, I want to go for LEDs all over, but that has to wait.

Once I get the bike moving without leaks, I want to go for something like this:

Finall got the water pump housing off the bike. It immediately struck me how much dirt it had collected through the years - oily dirt that had gotten into places you would have thought the cover would, well cover....

The following discoveries were made:

- Old type impeller (14 on the picture below). Cast iron, I presume. Looks kinda inefficient. Can I change it?
- Worn seals (7 and and spacer (15. Is it made of plastic?)
- Couldn't get the small drive shaft out (9), and neither the o-ring (10)
- The large drive shaft has a threaded shaft towards the front, and a hex slot on the backside. No visible scoring. Is this the newer type?

Unfortunately you have the older type of pump, the newer type is the one pictured.
Those older type can't be rebuilt easily and not with OEM parts.
The small gear should come out with a bit of persuasion but don't lever against the engine casing as you will score the sealing surface.
You will need a later type of large gear and a pump kit as well as a new type of impeller and the bolt in the centre of the impeller. Motobins have it all ready and waiting just for you.

Yes Erman do like Rick G says his dead right I had exactly the same setup as you. There are plenty of threads on it here CF did a great writeup.

Rick G wrote:Unfortunately you have the older type of pump, the newer type is the one pictured.
Those older type can't be rebuilt easily and not with OEM parts.
The small gear should come out with a bit of persuasion but don't lever against the engine casing as you will score the sealing surface.
You will need a later type of large gear and a pump kit as well as a new type of impeller and the bolt in the centre of the impeller. Motobins have it all ready and waiting just for you.

Thanks alot!

I will order the kit which will fit the new type impeller, and the impeller itself. And then I have to get hold of a newer type of toothed gear, but not too new, ca. 1983-1989 right?

This is the motobins part number for the large gear Part No.11535

Rick G wrote:This is the motobins part number for the large gear Part No.11535

Great. I'll have a look on the buy&sell pages first if someone wants to get rid of their gear&shaft for a reasonable price...

I'm sure you guys already tried sourcing older parts for the water pump, and that leaves me no choice but try to install the new shaft and seals.

Meanwhile, here are some pictures of the pump housing after moderate cleaning:





And here are the old seals - you can see how much gunk they've collected...

Have a look at Moto bins....... K Series/engine parts/oil and water pump.

Every time i do a pump thats what the seals look like, little bits of hard rubber, the odd spring and a washer or two.

Thanks Inge! Parts ordered... 1000 NOKs. Customs going to rain fire on my a**...

Rick G wrote:Every time i do a pump thats what the seals look like, little bits of hard rubber, the odd spring and a washer or two.

Amazing... How many kms between change? Or did you mean when you do other people's pumps?

I have done 3 for myself (one for each bike) ane 2 for others.

Erman wrote:When I filled coolant, I noticed a leak from this small peephole... oh boy!

Judging from the oil res. fins it looks like the PO did some off-roading. I mean, how else would you do that?

Driving off a kerb,zaubertuba.

'The voice of experience!'

Paul.

Nice work Erman

Halo

zaubertuba wrote:

Erman wrote:When I filled coolant, I noticed a leak from this small peephole... oh boy!

Judging from the oil res. fins it looks like the PO did some off-roading. I mean, how else would you do that?

Actually, that was me

I managed to snag it on a curb. Me weighing 120 kg + a passanger of 70 kgs + a higher curb than expected managed to do that

While waiting for the water pump toothed gear, I've spent some time looking at the obvious oil leaks on the front of the engine. I took off the covers and put on new rubber gaskets on the covers and bolts, as well as sealing compound.
The only place that got me stumped, was the timing chain cover, where I didn't have any gaskets, but instead only used sealing compound. Will this cause clearance issues on the inside? I also checked the oil seal, and while it looked ripe for replacing, I had none lying around and opted to wait for the end of season.





On second thought, I should probably have checked valve clearances, but procrastination devil took me

Nice blog, nice RS. Good pics. Thanks.

sweet

boristhebike wrote:Nice blog, nice RS. Good pics. Thanks.

It's no RS anymore. Although originally so, the PO has removed the fairing and sold it. Says he wanted to convert it to a street fighter before he sold it to me due to time limitations.

I'm planning on taking it a little further once I get it running; small fairing in the front, and a higher set of bars.

I wanted to do clip-ons, but they're not in the budget right now...

My engine was at that stage a couple of months back Erman, whilst I did the engine cover painting and inspected the cam chain. Since I had no real issues I decided to put it all back together and wait until winter to do the cam chain and valve shims. I also reused the rubbers seals on the covers (after careful cleaning of old sealant residue).

I used "Dirko" sealing compound on the joints and a little on the rubbers as well. I let it go off for 24 hrs before refilling oils and water and had no leaks.

Good work so far
88

So, the new shaft has arrived and the pump is assembled. Having a little trouble fitting the small gear though. It seems the new o-ring makes it hard to get all the way in. I guess using a hammer is out of the question?

Beware that the cutout in the shaft is off center.

yes it should slot in just nicely .....else turn it 180 degrees

Thanks! I wrote the post and went to try again, when it magically slotted in.
The pump assy is bolted on and awaiting the 24H mark for sealant to settle.

I'm really looking forward to getting off work today. I spent yesterday evening refilling coolant and oil, and left the bike overnight for a leak-down test. This morning, I noticed no signs of oil or coolant on the exterior and tried to start the bike.
I was hoping that it would start, but the battery was too weak. 8 hours of charging should do the trick.

Like I said, I'm really looking forward to getting home later!

(Btw Inge, how do the K's hold up in the cold - i mean COLD? This morning I read +2 on the dial, so it must have been a few below 0 tonight..)

good news ...so far erman hope she hold together on the running test ...

dont forget to run the bike for a short time to let the bubbles out of the cooling system ..with the cap off .....

good luck... got my fingers crossed

Erman wrote:(Btw Inge, how do the K's hold up in the cold - i mean COLD? This morning I read +2 on the dial, so it must have been a few below 0 tonight..)

No problem (when you got a good battery). Earlier I did use the K all year around
for commuting, as it was my only vehicle.

Good man, good man...

Well, I'm home from work now... and battery seems half full.
So I tried to crank it, but no deal. After a few attempts, I noticed that there was a slight wetness and dripping coolant around the muffler manifold for cylinder 1&3... Not good...

It could be that a new head gasket is the next step on your to do list.

This would be caused by running the engine with a close to empty coolant circuit, which yours apparently did refered to the earlier posts.

If it sad enough ends up to be the reason for the leak, check the cylinder head for straightness.


And don`t do to many starting attempts with a weak battery, you could end up with a welded starter relay.

Hahaha... wow... the list just keeps adding up, eh?

In realization that I need to check and most likely replace the head gasket, I've been thinking about a way to do it with a minimal amount of dissambly.

The engine needs base support, and I need to unbolt the frame from the engine:



Also, the timing chain has to come off, as well as the cams, and then the head bolts. The question is if the air box is separate from the air distribution unit, so that it can clear a dismount?

Erman wrote:The question is if the air box is separate from the air distribution unit, so that it can clear a dismount?

It`s hose in front of the air filter housing which connects it to the plenum chamber, it`s a hard to reach hose clamp at the rear of the plenum chamber.

Check the rubbers between the TB`s and plenum, if they are old, dry and have started to crack (not unusal, and would sooner or later lead to a air leak), this is the correct moment to change them.

It would also make this work a whole lot easier, with the plenum out of the way.

Thanks, Inge.

Looks like this is turning into a full-on winter project. Luckily, we have lots of winter-time here in Norway