Small update for tonight; got the engine and gearbox spray painted in black Bill Hirsch Engine enamel. Will lay on a second layer today...

Great progress, looking forward to the finished product!

GMcQ

And here is and update from last night:



White rims and black core for the outside of the brake discs, white triple tree.

Also tonight, I will paint the plenum black, as well as swing arm and final drive.

Not terribly good photos, but they are sufficient to show progress.

Gearbox done painting and mounted with footrest brackets, gear selector lever, stands, and brake lever. Still waiting for the parcel from Motorworks to complete the brakes.



Done painting and assembling the front end. I like the way the clip-ons tidy up the front end real nice.

You guys wear me out.

I'm looking at Bargearse and think "Just put it back together and give it a wash and polish".

Excellent work Erman, excellent work.

Been busy with a lot else than the bike for the past couple of weeks, but now things are starting to come together again.
The frame is done painted white, and I've started removing old paint from the tank.



After struggling to get the front right bolt out, I noticed that there is supposed to be a dowel pin of sorts (or maybe a rubber damper) between the hole and bolt. Any idea where I can get this?

It's #4 on the schematic below. Oddly enough, it's not even in the description.

nice !

sorry got no idea about the rubber insulator ... erm ...yet !

Rubber mounting, part # 46 51 2 312 775.

Inge K. wrote:Rubber mounting, part # 46 51 2 312 775.

Inge saves the day again
Thanks alot!

But 28 bucks... woooow

Looking forward o seeing all those painted bits going together Erman. Get cracking dear boy!

That riding season it just around the corner.

Rick G wrote:That riding season it just around the corner.

Not at all, Rick. We got fresh snow here in Oslo just yesterday




Some small changes have to be made:
- new brake line from MC to stem, OR directly to the calipers
- I'm a bit undecided on the gauge cluster - top of stem or lowered old position
- there will be a combined seat pan / tail cover, housing the jetronic and relays
- thinking about vertically mounted dual headlights
- front indicators will mount onto tank sides
- thinking about belly pan
- will try to fabricate a rear wheel hugging mudguard
- diamond plate covers on battery sides
- battery in the original position

It's been a while since last update, and to be honest I haven't done too much on the bike for the past month.
But the tank is painted and on frame, as well as front wheel and some other tidbits.
I've taken the tape wrapping off the main harness. I'll tidy it up with some newer stuff later.

Mind you, I am not satisfied with the tank paint, and may be redone if the clear coat doesn't fix things. Looking forward to riding it every time I look...

You can see that the rear of the frame will sit a lot higher than before. I'm guessing about 15 degrees. The location of the clip-on bars make you pretty much lie on top of the tank, and I'll put on a large black rubber pad to the rear of it to keep from getting scratched.

Finally got the right side swing arm adjuster bolt, and been busy putting the bike together before fabbing parts needed.
Ran the clutch cable, put on a new rear brake reservoir with hose, and a rubber pad on the tank.



Bonus on the pictures: Angry girlfriend and my 1984 Seca

Hey Erman...can you do me a favour?

Can you post a pick of your right side footrest (footpeg) and rear brake set-up please?

I noticed that you have done away with the footrest (footpeg) carrier...or did you cut up the original to how it looks now?

Thanks in advance.

Geez mate, next time you get your missus to take the photos make sure you are out of the shot if you are going to be wearing your boots and leggings.

You tease.

rossko wrote:Geez mate, next time you get your missus to take the photos make sure you are out of the shot if you are going to be wearing your boots and leggings.

You tease.

Will do, promise

blaKey wrote:Hey Erman...can you do me a favour?

Can you post a pick of your right side footrest (footpeg) and rear brake set-up please?

I noticed that you have done away with the footrest (footpeg) carrier...or did you cut up the original to how it looks now?

Thanks in advance.

I'll do better, here is the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Footrest-Foot-Pegs-Front-left-right-Yamaha-98-11-YZF-R1-99-11-YZF-R6-/281057479077?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417054c9a5&vxp=mtr

They fit fine, same bore. Although, the bolts in the package are too short, so you need to use the BMW bolts.
I have indeed cut the footrest plates. Below is an unpainted picture.
I kept just enough of the plate to mount the brake MC in the original position.

Just a small progress update.
Made a bracket to mount the ignition switch to frame underneath the tank.
Re-soldered the wires after having cut into one while test fitting.
FYI, the ignition switch measures 30mm, and there is a 1mm clearance between the body and the plastic cover, perfect for a 1mm steel plate.

Getting a lot done these days, a little work a day goes a long way...

This is not the final location, but I was thinking about having the MAF sensor like so, with a cone filter pointing out from the frame. Thoughts?



Also, please agree with my idiot self that this tail solution looks totally weird:

Also, please agree with my idiot self that this tail solution looks totally weird:
Yes it sure does I hope it's easy to sort out.

the maf and pod filter will be in direct airflow of pretty warm air in that configuration ...had thought similar on this idea .

the real problem is that it cant suck cooling air through the maf .

charlie99 wrote:the maf and pod filter will be in direct airflow of pretty warm air in that configuration ...had thought similar on this idea .

the real problem is that it cant suck cooling air through the maf .

Thanks for the tip. I assume that's why there was a forward pointing air vent before?

yes indeed erman ....to get around that hot spot ..we call the radiator

i did notice that scheffers did another plenum and ran his maf and pod outside the radiator line ...which would have worked well ...but didnt look as neat

funny enough i left a remote temp sensor inside my airbox one time to test the heat factor ..in standard configuration ...with radiator quite hot .... the results were that i got temperatures slightly lower that ambient in the air flow path in the air box whilst under way .

there may have been slightly more heating effect on the last part entering the plenum ...but i have an idea that the cooling constant flow keeps the temperature down ....

i guess i should say this is relative to 30 odd degrees c ambient ....not in the low 10s degrees c when things might be a bit different .

you may notice quite a bit of difference to the normal faired type bikes though ...i have noticed that naked bikes or even my rt without the lowers or radiator surround run a good deal cooler anround the kneees area havent tested the airbox external temps when in this configuration though ...i must get onto that .

i have to buy another dual temperature sensor for this ...my last one got a bit damp and decided to chuck in the towel ....about $6 (cheep ) from the local electronics shop

still looking for one that goes up to 240 f with a remote sensor though ....cf linked me one available in ikea ....in his neck of the woods (for oven applications_)...but so far unavailable here in aussie ... i guess ebay might be the next solution but ive been looking ...but not found yet .

charlie99 wrote:yes indeed erman ....to get around that hot spot ..we call the radiator

i did notice that scheffers did another plenum and ran his maf and pod outside the radiator line ...which would have worked well ...but didnt look as neat

funny enough i left a remote temp sensor inside my airbox one time to test the heat factor ..in standard configuration ...with radiator quite hot .... the results were that i got temperatures slightly lower that ambient in the air flow path in the air box whilst under way .

there may have been slightly more heating effect on the last part entering the plenum ...but i have an idea that the cooling constant flow keeps the temperature down ....

i guess i should say this is relative to 30 odd degrees c ambient ....not in the low 10s degrees c when things might be a bit different .

you may notice quite a bit of difference to the normal faired type bikes though ...i have noticed that naked bikes or even my rt without the lowers or radiator surround run a good deal cooler anround the kneees area havent tested the airbox external temps when in this configuration though ...i must get onto that .

i have to buy another dual temperature sensor for this ...my last one got a bit damp and decided to chuck in the towel ....about $6 (cheep ) from the local electronics shop

still looking for one that goes up to 240 f with a remote sensor though ....cf linked me one available in ikea ....in his neck of the woods (for oven applications_)...but so far unavailable here in aussie ... i guess ebay might be the next solution but ive been looking ...but not found yet .

Thanks man, I do appreciate experiences from other "modders" when trying out ideas. The most annoying thing about the stock setup is the rubber bit between the MAF and the plenum chamber. If I can get hold of something similar only a different angle, I may test some other angles. I could add something that will direct air towads the intake, but that may put more bulk on the bike when I'm trying to remove as much as possible.

Conversely, my 1984 Seca (air cooled), has the airbox directly behind the engine (hole underneath the seat).

RicK G wrote:Also, please agree with my idiot self that this tail solution looks totally weird:
Yes it sure does I hope it's easy to sort out.

Thanks Rick
I wanted to test it on the new frame setup, in case of plan "Z", but I will attempt at a sheet metal box (somewhat similar to the top tail of a K1).

There was a K1100RS I saw some time ago that had the rear kicked up but not as far as you have and a bit removed so the seat section was shorter, it looked quite good and I think many would have looked at it for some time before figuring out what had been done. Scheffers did a similar thing but went naked where this one was still with the RS fairing.
I cant find a photo but from memory he had shortened the front of the rear section and it still mated with the standard side covers.

have a look at ben kinghams racing bike ....

it looks as though he has come straight out of the plenum to the afm ...(straight across the bike) with the right angle then pointing towards the front .

you would need a flexible rubber adaptor from the plenum 73mm? to afm 60 mm (both id sizes ) and they do exist (usually in the turbo shops )

there is a reported round adaptor to suit the afm inlet side also, which just bolts up (60mm i think)

it looks as though he has also fitted a nice big scoop at the front of the right angle sitting just outside the radiator to the right hand side that hangs off that adaptor

i am eager to try this pretty soon ...but have to come up with a way to filter the air rather than let all the nasties in there ....and have been secretly hiding the stuff i need to do this mod ....and this is the first time i have mentioned it on the forum

i have a few other radiator heat direction changes , a bracket to hold the afm solidly to the frame , a heat shield for the afm and possibly a new plenum intake idea

this should all result in throwing the airbox away completly, allowing the heat to go directly under the afm and out the backish ..way past the calves of my legs . well thats the plan .

halo is also planning some mods in the afm direction i think

Erman wrote:

RicK G wrote:Also, please agree with my idiot self that this tail solution looks totally weird:
Yes it sure does I hope it's easy to sort out.

Thanks Rick
I wanted to test it on the new frame setup, in case of plan "Z", but I will attempt at a sheet metal box (somewhat similar to the top tail of a K1).

This could give you some ideas:

Ohh that seat looks too hard for my poor old bum.

RicK G wrote:Ohh that seat looks too hard for my poor old bum.

It looks like it was a K1 at some stage. The footrest plates and gear selector are K1. You'd be surprised how much those footrests being about 5 inches further back alter the riding position and take the weight off your bum.

I've just swapped my bike back to the standard pegs as the lowered ones put my weight back on my backside instead of the inner thighs. It sounds illogical but it's more comfortable (for me at least).

charlie99 wrote:have a look at ben kinghams racing bike ....

it looks as though he has come straight out of the plenum to the afm ...(straight across the bike) with the right angle then pointing towards the front .

you would need a flexible rubber adaptor from the plenum 73mm? to afm 60 mm (both id sizes ) and they do exist (usually in the turbo shops )

there is a reported round adaptor to suit the afm inlet side also, which just bolts up (60mm i think)

it looks as though he has also fitted a nice big scoop at the front of the right angle sitting just outside the radiator to the right hand side that hangs off that adaptor

i am eager to try this pretty soon ...but have to come up with a way to filter the air rather than let all the nasties in there ....and have been secretly hiding the stuff i need to do this mod ....and this is the first time i have mentioned it on the forum

i have a few other radiator heat direction changes , a bracket to hold the afm solidly to the frame , a heat shield for the afm and possibly a new plenum intake idea

this should all result in throwing the airbox away completly, allowing the heat to go directly under the afm and out the backish ..way past the calves of my legs . well thats the plan .

halo is also planning some mods in the afm direction i think

The sheer size of the airbox had me annoyed as soon as I looked at the bike for the first time. So,yeah, I'm pretty determined to not put it back on.

Kingham, I think, used a different type of sensor, which I currently cannot install due to begin dumb on electronics. (Unless someone can just serve me the dessert )

Also, the Plenum ID is 70mm, and OD is probably 72mm. The fastening ring says 73mm.

my cheep chineese tape measure is short then ....giggles ... thanks remember to add 3mm every 75mm smacks head

Looking to mold some fibreglass over this...

Erman wrote:

charlie99 wrote:have a look at ben kinghams racing bike ....
it looks as though he has come straight out of the plenum to the afm ...(straight across the bike) with the right angle then pointing towards the front .
you would need a flexible rubber adaptor from the plenum 73mm? to afm 60 mm (both id sizes ) and they do exist (usually in the turbo shops )
there is a reported round adaptor to suit the afm inlet side also, which just bolts up (60mm i think)
it looks as though he has also fitted a nice big scoop at the front of the right angle sitting just outside the radiator to the right hand side that hangs off that adaptor
i am eager to try this pretty soon ...but have to come up with a way to filter the air rather than let all the nasties in there ....and have been secretly hiding the stuff i need to do this mod ....and this is the first time i have mentioned it on the forum
i have a few other radiator heat direction changes , a bracket to hold the afm solidly to the frame , a heat shield for the afm and possibly a new plenum intake idea
this should all result in throwing the airbox away completly, allowing the heat to go directly under the afm and out the backish ..way past the calves of my legs . well thats the plan .
halo is also planning some mods in the afm direction i think

The sheer size of the airbox had me annoyed as soon as I looked at the bike for the first time. So,yeah, I'm pretty determined to not put it back on.
Kingham, I think, used a different type of sensor, which I currently cannot install due to begin dumb on electronics. (Unless someone can just serve me the dessert )
Also, the Plenum ID is 70mm, and OD is probably 72mm. The fastening ring says 73mm.

Sorry for the long quote...

Just checking my options on the possibility of swapping out the MAF with some other sensor. Anybody done this (the easy way)?

All right!
After realizing that the tail would become too angular by molding fibreglass over cardboard, I did a foam core / clay variant as seen below. A few hours of work, but I think it turned out pretty well.
(Bonus in the photo above, custom seat made with form core and red faux leather cover. Also, the basement in-house pool.)




Next up; planning stages for positioning the stock instrument panel.
I experienced a lot of shaking with the sub-optimal fastening, added the fact that the clip-ons allow for a more forward leaning riding position (enough to almost butt the helmet onto the instrument panel), I had to find a new position for the panel. There is also enough room to insert the ignition switch and hazard lights switch.



I've made two 25cm brackets to bolt onto the four holes on the triple T, and onto these I'll fabricate another plate to hold the panel.
The plan is to swap this one out with aftermarket gauges once the bike is running, so the front end is only temporary. Underneath, I will mount two lights vertically, and probably finish off with some panelling for looks.

Following up the front "fairing" fabrication, here is version 1.0 of the final look. I went to buy double headlights at the only place in town stocking them, only to find out that they were no longer. Instead I found this one really cheap:





Still left to do:
- Cover up the sides so the brackets don't show
- Bracket for the ignition switch behind the speedo
- Paint the upper and lower cover in red

Pretty ingenious approach to shaping the rear Erman

Thank you!

For the last few days, I've been setting up the fuel pump and injectors for testing.
I used the original fuel lines/filter/distribution block for this, and hooked up a small 2.2A battery to appropriate terminals for the injectors, and another cable to prime the fuel line (blocked off at the end where it continues to the pressure regulator.
Since the pump was sitting for several months, it was reluctant to come on at first, but after a few moments, I guess the dried fuel deposits flaked off, and it was clean.
All injectors were cleaned in ultrasonic bath and tested for resistance (17.7-17..

All work, and seem to inject equal amounts, but the coils seem to hang and a tiny amount of fuel runs through.

Now; is this a bad thing. I can think of the plugs fouling, and also lower fuel economy. But wouldn't it also hurt the engine that more than the prescribed amount of fuel entered the cylinders?
Also, can I fix the injectors somehow or are they up for replacement?

Try to put some carb and injector cleaner through them there could be some if the deposits caught in the pintle valve but if they continue to dribble then replacement is the only option as you cant get them apart to do any maintenance

Thanks, Rick

While browsing, I've come across this K1100 belonging to a Markus Bender. Notice the fancy exxhaust... *droooool*

Yeah I like that exhaust been thinking of lots of different exhausts for my K1100 as the stock one has cracked again.
I would like to put a staintune on it but the money doesn't even come close to it.

[quote="Erman[/quote]

Sorry for the long quote...

Just checking my options on the possibility of swapping out the MAF with some other sensor. Anybody done this (the easy way)?[/quote]

pretty hard to go map sensor ...because of the valve durations , but not impossible

a combination might be the go

Would you recommend something else (read easier) ?

I'm definitely keeping the barndoor sensor, just checking options to save space. I have ordered and mounted a straight reducer from Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370732283719?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's a no-hassle bolt-on solution to getting the airbox out, only left to do is find/adapt an air filter mount. I might still be using the stock 90 deg. bend hose to direct incoming air from front of radiator.

Haven't got a picture of it yet, but I've finished the licence plate holder setup. This mother:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160984539641?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

comes with brackets to mount indicators, and I've also fashioned a bracket to mount driving/license plate/brake light. I sense a picture would be in order...

All right, as promised, here is the license plate holder setup:



Still need to put on license plate light. It will go on the bottom of the brake light. Possibly a strip of 3-5 lights curved.

I was up until 9 in the morning (after my night shift finised at 4am) doing the wiring harness. I ordered 10m of spiral wrapping and went ahead!
Swapped out the headlight connector, as well as new wires from starter relay to battery and to the alternator. Many of the loose fitting connectors were pretty corroded, to the limit that I'm clueless as to why they were still performing for the one week that the bike ran.
The headlight has a running light, which the PO had disabled with the aftermarket light he installed. This one is now back on.

This picture is a bit small, but you can see the reducer hose for air intake and the wire braids. The relays and fuse box will be located beneath the seat.


BUT
I ran into an unforeseen problem about the blinker relay. I guess the stock version is impossible to swap for a load bearing relay, but what are the options? Anyone?

gettng nearly finished erman ....good work !

you might have to make an astable 555 timer circuit timed at about 1 second intervals ( is that formular 10k and 1 Uf )...and a bit of a relay setup for each side indicators ......dont forget that bmw uses ground switching to activate

you will definatly loose auto cancellation .... and might have to think about end cancellation

maybe 2 astable circuits might work 1 for the blink rate ...and one for the flash duration ?

nice work so far

charlie99 wrote:gettng nearly finished erman ....good work !

you might have to make an astable 555 timer circuit timed at about 1 second intervals ( is that formular 10k and 1 Uf )...and a bit of a relay setup for each side indicators ......dont forget that bmw uses ground switching to activate

you will definatly loose auto cancellation .... and might have to think about end cancellation

maybe 2 astable circuits might work 1 for the blink rate ...and one for the flash duration ?

nice work so far

I'm sorry Charlie, I'm not skilled enough in electronics to be able to do that

ill look around ...perhaps there is a solution already done ? or if any body knows of one ?

Been doing a bit of Googling, and I'll try to add resistors on all 4 lines, and on the tail light cluster...

I imagine a setup as below. Please evaluate and add/remove what may be needed.

Thanks!

I'm at work, far far away from my brick.
Can anyone post me the OD of the exhaust pipes?

I've found something on Ebay that may be interesting....