I'm at work, far far away from my brick.
Can anyone post me the OD of the exhaust pipes?

I've found something on Ebay that may be interesting....

I measured the 1 (of 4) pipes that I could get a Mic. around on my 85 K100rs 4V.
My measurement was: 1.110" or 28.194mm
regards, ibj...

28 mm Erman.
Paul.

Thanks!
I'd found a few 4-1 collectors, but none of them go as low as 28mm. Need to have a custom one made...

That measurement was for each of the individual header pipes in front of the muffler. not for the collector neck

Yes sir. I was looking for the inlet diameter to muffler.
I can have one made here, but it's going to cost big money...

Two days of fiber glass horror is over, finally.
Pictured below is fitting of the bottom plate and the boxing. I will add more layers and filler where needed tonight.
Holes will be drilled and a lockable lid on the front will allow access to the compartment.
Once I'm satisfied, I'll add more layers of fiber glassing to glue the two parts together.

Here we go; two parts glued together to form one + a flat piece that will act as a lockable lid.
Only some cutting, filling, and sanding left before paint.
The compartment will house the jetronic, as well as documents etc.
The base plate has been reinforced towards the rear to allow for mounting of licence plate holder.



Also, I found the following item to trick out the tank

After having worked on the tail piece for about a week, it's time to sand down a final layer of filler and prime it.

In the meantime I've ordered load resistors for the blinkers and installed those. Right side has correct flash speed, while the left side is blinking at double pace. Not sure if I should suspect one of the resistors or the flasher relay at this point.
Can the flasher relay get damaged by being turned on without load resistors?

no mate ...its just a bimetal strip ...which bends according to heat (current ) through it you more than likely have a partial open circuit (corrosion ?) in one of the globe holders ......or just a globe rated lower than the other .....might be a good idea to get another ...maybe a new pair ? .

i was doing something similar last weekend ..and noticed that the flash rate didnt change much with a 21 watt globe in the front and a 10 watt in the back .......against just a 21 watt globe on its own ...but with 2 x 21 watt globes the rate slowed down really quickly

FYI the LEDs are not bulbs into old sockets, they are all new.
The rear is wired to have a running red light core + brighter red light for braking, as well as yellow for blinking.

I tried tracing for bad ground yesterday, and I might do a search today. At least it's good to know that the relay can't be buggered.

Erman wrote:FYI the LEDs are not bulbs into old sockets, they are all new.
The rear is wired to have a running red light core + brighter red light for braking, as well as yellow for blinking.

I tried tracing for bad ground yesterday, and I might do a search today. At least it's good to know that the relay can't be buggered.

did you actually "read" the statement ...... i was commenting about the load required to make the "right" flash rate

yes i do know what leds are, and why load resistors are used

do you understand that the bimetal stip actually distorts for a certain length of time by the amount of heat produced by the load or range of value of the load ?

if you dont have enough load -- current and all the same materials used , in exactly the same way ....you have an issue

better recheck your work ....or look for some form of loss or difference ....

you have provided us with little information , study, measurement or understanding of the issue

you have told us, what is happening only ,not how it is installed or anything else ....we cant read minds .... i am bemused why you ask such a question without testing anything .

not all load resistors are the same ....have you actually tested that you have the same values ..... and that you have wired them correctly ?

sounds like a wiring stuff up to me .

Yes, I'm suspecting the wiring as well. Just wanted to make sure that the relay would not take damage from operating at a fast flash rate.
I'm not 100% into how everything on the bike works. It's more of a learn-as-you-go...
Sorry if all info needed is lacking. Sometimes my impatience gets in the way of documenting everything.
The load resistors are all 50W-6Ω

a guess would be that one of the load resistors is not connected properly ...could be in series rather than in parallel on one of the indicators ,,,,,,fast = less load

look for a connection to earth that is not made properly from the load resistor

just a thought

As you thought, one of the fast clips for the resistor on front left was not connected properly to engage the resistor.

Once properly connected, both sides work well. In addition, I've added a small switch to engage the hazard lights.

The licence plate LEDs arrived on Friday, and were promptly installed.

Currently trying to solve an issue where the headlight has three operations; 1) park light (separate bulb), 2) near light, 3) far light.
When I set the RH lighting switch to center position, the driving lights in the back engage as well as the instrument lights, as expected. However, when I set the switch to its left position, the near headlight does not engage.

Finally got some work done this weekend. Radiator overflow container is under works, and I managed to (very badly) paint and clear coat the tank and tail piece before it started raining indoors (again)!
The workshop is two floors below ground, and a water leak in the floor above caused water to seep through the ceiling and onto various places...

Anyway, photos:







The first version of the tailpiece is made of fibre glass. It's hard to get it right without a negative mold. I molded outside of a mold, causing some bubbles. The next version will be made of sheet metal once I learn to MIG weld.
also added the nice trim I got off Ebay onto various places...

The seating looks weird, but I think it's because the bike is on the center stand. Anyhow, it is what it is. I think I can live with it. 
Only waiting for a new brake line from front MC to the triple tree, and a new front brake switch, as the last one is buggered.
I'll have to reuse the original exhaust can, but I have some ideas for next winter...

Been working on some small details while waiting for the final bits to arrive.
I contacted the fellows over at BSK for info on their exhaust collector, and we're just waiting for it to come out of production to know the price.

Here is the Ohlins rear shock. Time to spice this baby up. Get the lower crown off, and shine the bits. NOT touching the gas canister...


White is the new yellow:


While waiting for the paint to dry, I went ahead and molded a hugger for the rear wheel.

And it's reassembled and fitted onto the bike.



After having cleaned the front (and rear) brake calipers and refitted them with fresh seals, I'm having difficulty with bleeding the front brakes. Somehow, I never reach full pressure on the MC.
I had no problems on the rear. I redid the front calipers for a second time after seeing bubbles around the bleeding screw on the right side.
Upon refitting, I put teflon tape on the brake line entry pipe and on the bleeding screw, but no luck.
Will try to redo the front MC and see if it fixes things.

try cleaning out the vents to the piston of the front master cylinder from the reservoir ...there are or should be 2 obvious holes viewable when the fluid is removed ....you might find the smaller vent ...towards the end of the reservoir blocked ...thus restricting the ability of the piston to breath ...and let off or suck in new fluid ....a small probe might be used to clean this hole up and get back to pumping the way it should .....
just a heads up ...
looking good !

Erman the brake fittings are not to have that teflon tape anywhere near them it can work its way under the seals and cause leaks and damage the seals, Never use it.
If there is a leak fix it with the correct fittings your life depends on it.
The front calipers can be a real problem to bleed because of the crossover tube to the left caliper and it can be very difficult to get the air out of the tube. If you can get a vacuum or a pressure bleeder it will make things much easier.
You can even use a big syringe to draw the fluid through fast to stop the air accumulating in the top of the crossover tube. You can get a syringe from a vet and I have seen them in the auto shops lately.

Thanks guys. I will check out both options. Already ordered an MC overhaul kit, just in case.
While browsing, I noticed that there is a large U-shaped steel tube to go between left and right calipers. Is this something that was used on some bikes to eliminate double hosing (thus only having to bleed one caliper)?
(Is this the crossover tube?)
On mine (*inhale*), the MC goes through the triple tree, splitting in two on the bottom, over to two hoses, then over to two steel tubes, and then over to the calipers (*exhale*).

That is the crossover tube I refered to. There is a way round it.
If you get the tube that goes through the centre of the steering stem and that will allow you to put two seperate lines from the bottom of the lower tripple clamp to each caliper. Part 6 in the drawing

A friend and a colleague of mine, claims there are ghosts in the basement where I work on my bikes.
I've never believed him. I've blamed odd noises to machinery, rats, etc, and lights flickering to bad connections, water damage, and aging fluorescent tubes.

And now, I may be one step to becoming a believer. I finished off the bike by mounting the exhaust, and very carefully christened the bike by taking it down from the pallets to the watery floor. Had to roll it a bit back and forth. Suddenly, there was pressure in the front brakes. I'm shocked and appalled. I thought I had to wait for another week to get the final parts, but it looks like I may be able to try starting it up this evening.

The warning light is on, but I believe this is due to me not having installed a resistor on the brake light? Also, a halo is ordered from Ebay, and will be mounted inside the headlight housing for low energy running lights.

Hopefully the last photos I'll take of the bike indoors:

I disconnected the ECU wiring, and the bike wouldn't turn over unless I held the clutch in. Fair enough...
But after 2-3 presses on the starter button, the starter relay stuck and wouldn't release. So off with it for cleaning. Worked fine after cleaning. I'm sure it isn't meant for prolonged operation :p

The weird thing was that there was no action on the fuel pump despite having worked when I applied power directly to it when testing the injectors.
There is no sensor on the fuel pump saying "don't turn on" when the tank is totally empty, right?

Erman wrote: I disconnected the ECU wiring, and the bike wouldn't turn over unless I held the clutch in. Fair enough...

Did you first select neutral and the neutral indicator was lit?
The start button (and the neutral indicator) get its power from the GPI PCB.............
or the clutch switch.

Erman wrote:But after 2-3 presses on the starter button, the starter relay stuck and wouldn't release. So off with it for cleaning. Worked fine after cleaning. I'm sure it isn't meant for prolonged operation :p

Usually caused by a to weak battery, get it charged or renewed.

Erman wrote:The weird thing was that there was no action on the fuel pump despite having worked when I applied power directly to it when testing the injectors.
There is no sensor on the fuel pump saying "don't turn on" when the tank is totally empty, right?

The pump should have turned, have you checked fuse 6?
I don't think the pump is that happy about being run dry...more than just a few sec.

Thank you, Inge. I'll check on it this evening. As long as it's raining, I don't want to bring the bike out. It might get dirty :p

Had some other issues to sort yesterday, so no start yet. But they're all sorted now!

I wonder why my neutral light comes on when I put the bike in 1st gear, and not when it's actually in neutral...

Inge K. wrote:

Erman wrote:The weird thing was that there was no action on the fuel pump despite having worked when I applied power directly to it when testing the injectors.
There is no sensor on the fuel pump saying "don't turn on" when the tank is totally empty, right?

The pump should have turned, have you checked fuse 6?
I don't think the pump is that happy about being run dry...more than just a few sec.

Hey, Inge... Just something I thought of right now...
Would the pump work if I disconnect the Jetronic?

Erman wrote: I wonder why my neutral light comes on when I put the bike in 1st gear, and not when it's actually in neutral...

What does the GPI shows when the other gears is selected?
I would guess it's something wrong with the gpi switch.
It got one brown wire (ground) and three yellow wires w/ diff. tracers.
When the bike is in neutral all three yellow wires should be connected to the brown.
Measure at the GPI switch connector to check.

Erman wrote:Would the pump work if I disconnect the Jetronic?

The fuel pump (and the Jetronic) is powered from the FI relay.
The ignition ECU signals the relay to close the contacts when the starter button
is pressed, or a hall sensor signal is received (~ the engine is turning).

Hehe... actually my gpi doesn't work

Well... what to say?...
We took the bike out today and it started up after a while. Puffed some white smoke from the exhaust and throttle assy. I'm guessing coolant. Again?!
After some attempts, where it ran relatively smooth twice, it stopped working when I shut it off.

If I disconnect the ecu and the bike turns over but doesn't when it's connected, is it safe to say the ecu is fried?

Found a used jetronic ecu for cheap. It should be on its way. Getting really eager to try starting it again.

In the meantime, I've got the gear position switch sorted. Apparently, I'd mounted it on with the wire at 90 degrees to the left, when it should have been 45 degrees to the left. Anyway, it's fine now

It's the little things in life. I switched the leads to the starter relay, and lo! the bike now turns over. Below, a courtesy pic of two almost finished bikes.

Gentlemen, I'm proud to state that she runs! And not bad too!
Had a couple of hickups at starting. Seems like the starter relay sticks in these final years. Had some white smoke in the beginning. It wore off after about a km. Responsive throttle, all gears in order, good front suspension (still original springs).
The seating works ok, but arms got tired at the end. 
However, I do feel that the engine gets hotter now. It does have a higher idle when warm, and radiator is warmer than I can recall it was before teardown.

But the grin of a successful build is there 

You'll have t learn all over again what "normal" is.
 An idle set at 850 when cold or slightly warmed up will be maybe 1200 when fully hot. Nothing wrong there.

The radiators make TREMENDOUS heat, especially when ambients rise above 90F.
 
You'll be amazed at just how much heat the radiator can remove from the engine coolant if/when it finally reaches a temp when the fan finally does start up.......

When operating at 100 deg. F. or higher.......a set of aftermarket side heat shields help a lot if you can find a set. (On second thought, I guess those wouldn't work on your bike, lol)
I live in the desert Southwest in USA......I use a pair of knee high Rev-it socks with a pair of fairly tall boots and denim blue jeans when it's warm out and I can ride all day without burning my legs.

Don't do anything to try to alter the bike to combat heat......it's a waste of time.

use the correct gear and enjoy the ride.
Congrats on your excellent workmanship.

Regards, Ibjman

Good job Erman.

Next time you take a photo just make sure the K is in front. Where it belongs

Thanks guys. I'm thinking at least some reflective foil under the seat, just to keep the gluteus from becoming roast chicken after a longer ride. He he he...

You're absolutely right Rossko. But now that the bike is out of the shed, I have "some" ideas of capturing the beast in the right environment 

New starter relay is ordered. Need to check the temp sensor and thermostat, and possibly order new ones there too.

It seems the thermostat and temp.sensor, as well as the fan, are working within spec.
I'm currently working on a cheap intake funnel, as I believe hot air from the engine/radiator may be messing up the mixture in slow speeds (stop-and-go etc.) and causing higher idle.

I've also moved the relays from under the seat to the tail piece. I would like to get hold of thinner cables though... any ideas?


What's up?

I've been riding for almost two weeks now. Like I said earlier, the engine idles fast once it's warm. Especially after city riding. 

Yesterday, though, I thought I lost a cylinder. The bike had a noticeably different engine sound and went sluggish.
This morning I checked the cylinders for heat buildup when warming up. 3rd cylinder stuck out as colder than the rest. When I came to work after some 5 minutes of riding, I checked again, and came to the same result - 3rd cylinder is cooler than the searing 1, 2, and 4. 

I guess I need to do more electrical tests tonight.

might be an option to do a compression test erman
we have seen that valve issues can cause similar noticed issues

have you actually pulled the head covers off to confirm that valve clearances aren't too tight (never close fully )  ???

its pretty easy to do

Thanks Charlie. I haven't done a comp. test, but it seems to me that the change in engine performance is too sudden to be caused by the valves.
I suspect the coil or the injector.

I pulled the plug and it was slightly brown, and dry. If the injector was working, I assume it should have been wet? Also took out the injector on cylinder 3 for ultrasonic cleaning. Hoping it's sorted when I'm done at work in 5 hours.

It was the injector all right. Purred like a tiger kitten at once after having cleaned 3rd injector. The difference in engine running before and after was so noticeable that I now think the engine is getting a bit too much fuel. It might be an idea to put in new injector down the line.

Thanks for all help guys!

marvellous news erman .... 
good to hear

you will have to do something about that coil that doesn't measure right ....one day

My odo has reached 476km after the rebuild (144342 km total), and I think it's time for a little recognition of how durable this bike (and K's in general) is. 

The clanking sound from the alternator is only present sometimes when starting, and almost all the time when decelerating. All other functions seem to be in order. 

When I let go of the bars on steady road/speed, the bike pulls to the right just enough for me to have to grab the bars again. 

She pulls nicely even in 5th gear. Even though the tach needle is still, I can still guess the RPMs from sound. Around 5500-6000 RPM / 110km/t, I get a shudder from the engine. I remember a similar thing at 9000 RPM on the Seca. 

Haven't tried to go over 110 km/t yet. In a way, it feels like breaking the sound barrier 

Erman, 4K RPM is very close to 100Km/Hr.

aye !!!

In 5th?