201 Re: The slow road back to roadworthiness - a blog Thu Aug 22, 2013 7:47 am
Erman
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In 5th?
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Yeah, I was thinking of replacing them with something else than torx. I do see the benefit of having the extra grip, but both bolt heads and bits tend to F up often.RicK G wrote:Getting the Torx head bolts out to get the bellhousing off is a lot easier if you put the bit into the hole and with an extension bar in the socket drive hit it hard with a 16oz hammer then undo then, the jar will make any corosion release that grip it forms on the threads. There is absolutely no need to use those torx head bolts you can use the ordinary socket head cap screws (allen head bolts) when you replace it.
It shouldn't be any play in the idler gear, it could be that the hole in the spring have becoming oblong.Erman wrote:
I was stunned to find that the 6 bolts on the Absorber Gear Wheel were all fine with no play, and that the Idler looked fine with just a tiny amount of play (though I reckon this is how it should be).
Rick: HahaInge K. wrote:It shouldn't be any play in the idler gear, it could be that the hole in the spring have becoming oblong.Erman wrote:
I was stunned to find that the 6 bolts on the Absorber Gear Wheel were all fine with no play, and that the Idler looked fine with just a tiny amount of play (though I reckon this is how it should be).
Not unusual on the early models, which did have a to strong spring.
Look at the top of teeth on the idler and the absorber, they should not be in line
.....when you lightly twist the idler to take up the play.
88KE wrote:Terminator....it just won't stop!!
Just cacthing up with your thread Erman, Great pics and very educational, Keep it up and thanks.
Will
Erman wrote: The wear on the sprag clutch is noticeable, but not critical at this time.
At least, I now know what was causing the noise coming from what I thought was the alternator. I will try running the bike in this condition to see if the problem goes away after the rigorous cleaning. Otherwise, I guess I need to fit a new sleeve or replace the sprag clutch assembly altogether.
Inge K. wrote:Erman wrote: The wear on the sprag clutch is noticeable, but not critical at this time.
At least, I now know what was causing the noise coming from what I thought was the alternator. I will try running the bike in this condition to see if the problem goes away after the rigorous cleaning. Otherwise, I guess I need to fit a new sleeve or replace the sprag clutch assembly altogether.
Hmm.....it's a pity this is a bit late, as most this and that is assembled by now.
I don't think your problem goes away with rigorous cleaning, as you got a seized bearing spinning around in the engine block...which also have been grinding itself forward...a gear have started to grind the engine block.
I would have tried to fixating a new bearing straight, centered, at correct depth (bearing level with surface) and glued it with Loctite 660.
Complete alternator driveshafts it's a lot of on ebay.
Get the bearing from a well known manufacturer.......SKF, FAG.
RicK G wrote:Erman sounds to me like the bearing was turning on the shaft and and then seized onto the shaft where the bearing inner should be a press fit and any spinning should be left to the bearing rollers. If the new bearing is a lose fit on the shaft don't use the shaft as it will only happen again. Some shaft loctite may do the job or a new shaft would be needed. Some pics of the shaft would help determine what has happened.
Inge K. wrote:Erman, in reply #227 it's a link to the correct bearing and its designation
(and a hint that you would need a new alternator drive shaft).
RicK G wrote:That bearing is supposed to run in oil and be lubricated by the engine oil. Don't put grease on it just oil it before assembly or use some engine assembly paste which will mix with the oil. Grease wont mix with the oil and could actually prevent the oil getting into the bearing.
I haven't been able to get at any of my engines to have a look (because of the surgery I had recently) but there should be something there to catch the oil and direct some of it to the bearing, it may be just a slight dish in the casting or something like that. Make sure that if there is something like that it is clean and the oil feed is clear. It may even be something that directs oil down the centre of the shaft.
I feel quite confident that BMW would have some means of getting a positive oil feed to the bearing.
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