Just gone and bought a K1100LT.  

It's not here yet and is a bit knocked about so I don't quite know what I'll do with it. My initial thoughts are to turn it into a 'naked' but not a cafe.

The rear brake is buggered (no pressure) so that will be the first job, then ride it and see what it needs.

I'll update this when it arrives.

I also have a 1993 K1100LT which sadly has dropped a cylinder ! Seeing as I am only just up the road from you, please feel free to contact me if you might be interested in my bike as a parts donor etc.  The bike is in good order apart from the engine problem

Cheers. I'll see what it needs when it arrives and if necessary we can discuss the exchange of folding stuff. 

Well the K1100LT was delivered today. It's bit of a shed but at some stage in its life it was loved enough for someone to have gone around and fitted lots of stainless fasteners so that will save me one expense. 

All the brakes were seized. When I was getting the front callipers off so that I could roll it about, what's left of one pad's friction material fell out leaving the backing plate in the calliper!



With the callipers hooked up out of the way I could at least get the bike onto the lift table:



Off with the rear wheel to remove the rear calliper and lo, one of the disc retaining screws has been sheared off. Not a huge problem, one will be enough to keep the disc in place. Some judicious heat and the remaining one came away easily.



Of the footrest plates, one was seized on the sub-frame. Again, heat and this time a bash or two with a hammer and it came off:



With the sub-frame and the battery tray out I could clean out the crap on the top of the gearbox:



Then I set about the rear of the frame that has suffered the usual corrosion:



At the moment I have the rear calliper stripped and am trying to strip the front ones. Then I can see what parts I'm going to need.

The engine runs nicely, I just want the thing to stop!

The plan at the moment is to get it into a rideable state, use it for a couple of months and then turn it into a K1100R. With that in mind I have a pair of 'C' bars and a round headlamp that I hope to fit into a slightly shabby K75/100C small cowl. I'm eyeing up an RS belly-pan and wheels.

One thing's for certain, I'm not going to go to the lengths I have with recent bikes.

MikeP wrote:

One thing's for certain, I'm not going to go to the lengths I have with recent bikes.

Sure Mike, Sure!!! 

No we believe you.

No really.

"Will I Never Learn?"

Let's hope not Mike, for the good of K Kind!

Don't grow up  
It's a trap!

This is slow going for a number of reasons.

Well I've given up on the front calipers. Even if I get the pistons out a rebuild will cost more than a hundred quid for seals and pistons. So I've taken a chance on a second-hand pair off an R850R on ebay. Hopefully they'll fit and a scrub with brake cleaner and new pads will do the trick.

In the meantime I've been cleaning bits that have come off so far. Some will need painting. I'll post before and after photos once I've got enough bits ready to paint.

The rear caliper is apart, cleaned and a new seal kit is on order. A PO has fitted stainless in a lot of places including the two caliper half screws. He didn't know about anti-seize paste though. I don't think that my hot air gun has been worked so hard in its life.

I suspected that the cause of the failed rear brake was this:



The plunger was moving with the pedal but sure enough the piston was seized solid in the bore. I tried my air line but that wouldn't shift it even after two days soaking in a releasing agent.

A new piston will be required so I decided the existing one could be treated with that in mind. The solution I turned to was to cut a thread in the end of the piston, screw in a long screw and then twist, turn and pull until the piston budged:



It gave in eventually:



I was surprised and pleased to find that the bore isn't scoured, a clean and it looks as though I'll get away with jut a new piston kit. 

The rear brake pedal needed some heat to free the adjusters:



Then it was given a clean along with the adjusters and the pivot/bolt/spring/washer before setting aside for later:



It took me most of yesterday to free the footpeg pins and clean-up the various parts.



Considering that this bike passed an annual test in May of this year, I'm struggling to understand how it did so given the state of the brakes. It must have been ridden through sea water then had bags of salt sprinkled liberally all over to have caused the amount of oxidisation that is present.

Good job I've got nothing better to do. 

go on
reminds me of the winter 2011/12

what about naked ?

zonenfeile wrote:go on
reminds me of the winter 2011/12

what about naked ?

That's Plan B.

Plan A was to fix what I was led to believe was a seized rear brake, ride it for a couple of months until the tax runs out and assess what else it needs. Then turn it into a "K1100R".

Plan A got sidelined when I discovered that the front calipers were seized solid too.

Now the plan is to sort it out to the point where the frame and running gear is up to snuff then start chucking the bits that I've been accumulating for an "R" conversion at it.

I have a pair of 'C' bars, a K100/K75C round headlamp, the small headlamp cowl (like this one on my old K75C):



I also have another of those touring screens to hand.

On the list of parts to get are an RS bellypan and the wider wheels to take radial rubber, either 3 spoke K100RS 16v, K1100RS, R850/R1100R or possibly the five spoke 1150R ones.

I know someone with a store of K bits, hopefully he'll have the front indicators that I still need. He also has a couple of K100C radiator covers.

MikeP wrote:... the wider wheels to take radial rubber, either 3 spoke K100RS 16v, K1100RS, R850/R1100R or possibly the five spoke 1150R ones.

Will all of these wheels fit the K's rear drive and front forks without modifications (i.e. direct swaps)?  Or are there complications?  Wanted to get a sense for the "real cost" of obtaining radial tires.

As this is a K1100 it has the Paralever swingarm and greater clearance than the older bikes. The 4.5" rear rims fit without any issues. The wider front just requires the same procedure when removing (taping the calipers to protect the rim) as the K1 etc.



The forks are the same.

It's one of the reasons why I waited to find a cheap 16v bike, that and the better looking silencer.

Thanks Mike.  My question was more aimed at understanding if there were any mods required to ensure fitment.  For instance, are the wheel spacers or axle diameter the same on the front if you chose a 5-spoke 1150R front rim?  Or would new spacers or custom axle be required?  I get a sense that more custom mods are required for later model wheels.  For example, fitting K1100 wheels to K100 drive is easier than fitting 1150R wheels to the same.

I guess the rear is easier because the bolt-hole pattern is the same and the wheel is not captured between swingarm legs; it's as you point out, clearance for the tire and the frame.  Fitment issues such as these increase the total cost, sometime significantly.

Truth is Rob, I don't know but it can be done as the K1 with the fancy McLaren F1 car style paint job shows:



I just like the look of the spoke pattern in preference to the three-spoke wheels. It's probably just an idle fantasy on my behalf and I'll stick to the three spoke wheels. It's not as if I want any wider rubber, apart from appearance I don't think it's actually of any benefit to go beyond a 160 rear.

The "shed" has much to be done on it before I get to that stage and much of what's needed at the moment is cleaning to see just how bad some of it is underneath:



Brake fluid has destroyed the powder-coat under all that crap:



Once I've cleaned-up all the parts that are off so far, I'll strip the swingarm and FD to see what sort of state the shaft, bearings and seals are in.

Great work Mike, love it.

I got a new toy to. Looks like it just needs a service and bobbins on the front rotors.

That makes a change  

what about that mcclaren paint job, that looks snappy8) 

MikeP wrote:Truth is Rob, I don't know but it can be done as the K1 with the fancy McLaren F1 car style paint job shows:



I just like the look of the spoke pattern in preference to the three-spoke wheels. It's probably just an idle fantasy on my behalf and I'll stick to the three spoke wheels. It's not as if I want any wider rubber, apart from appearance I don't think it's actually of any benefit to go beyond a 160 rear.

The "shed" has much to be done on it before I get to that stage and much of what's needed at the moment is cleaning to see just how bad some of it is underneath:



Brake fluid has destroyed the powder-coat under all that crap:



Once I've cleaned-up all the parts that are off so far, I'll strip the swingarm and FD to see what sort of state the shaft, bearings and seals are in.

buy the way , Arent those rims the same as on the k1200rs ?

Ta Mike.  I know it's sometimes daunting to know all the ins and outs of modding these beasts.  I believe I read somewhere else that Beachcomber had new parts manufactured to fit late model wheels to early model K-bikes.

BTW, that paint job on the K1 looks very much like a paint job on another motorcycle, unfortunately stolen here in Toronto earlier this year.  This one is modeled after Spitfire panelling.

k-rider wrote:buy the way , Arent those rims the same as on the k1200rs ?

I believe that they are very similar. The variation between the different applications seems to be how the rear disc is mounted; some 4-valve Boxers have the disc on the wheel, while some have the disc on the final drive (like a Brick).

Well the R850R calipers arrived the other day. I've stripped and cleaned them, they just need the new pads (on order):



New pistons and pad pin set has arrived for the rear caliper:



The pistons were required because the PO, who was in the process of investigating the unresponsive rear brake has been a bit heavy handed trying to get what he thought was sticking pistons to move:



Even gentle attention with fine grit paper cannot salvage the pistons. The hard anodised finish has been too deeply gouged. Trying them with the old seals revealed that they stick occasionally. Even though I tend not to use the rear brake much, I'm not going to risk the caliper sticking or having to strip it down again because it leaks.

Considering the amount of clagged-on oil and dirt on the wheel-face of the final drive (photo above), I half expected to find a blown gearbox output shaft seal. Only half expected because my K1 was similarly covered when I first got it:



Yet, there was no blown seal. So fingers-crossed and peel back the swingarm gaiter:



Good news. Even better once the final drive is removed (splines in good order too):



Next it was off with the inner footrest mounting plates. Like every fastener on this bike, I applied lots of heat before trying to undo them. These will be added to the pile of parts for painting, not that they're visible behind the huge cast aluminium outer plates but just that I don't want them rusting away any further:



Funny isn't it? The way that on one bike that's been looked after something might need a struggle to strip down and yet on one that's been ignored the same thing is easy! I was anticipating a struggle with the right-hand swingarm pivot because I've never removed one without fighting it. This one just popped out with my fingers:



The left (adjuster) side needed a bit of heat but it too came out easily. I've found that they can gall and cross thread on the way out:



Needs more than just a scrub:



I found a pretty good match for the silver finish recently when I painted some valve covers for a GS owner and I have enough to try it on the swingarm and final drive:



All four swingarm races are in good order:



As are the fixed and adjustable trunnions (pivot pins if you prefer):



They'll get a good clean and close inspection in due course as will the splines, which look okay so far:



I'm struggling to split the final drive housing at the moment to replace that seal and inspect the bearing. It's resisting my efforts so far. I've never had this happen before, they've always just fallen apart. Still I have a spare unit from a K1 so if the worst comes to the worst, I'll get to find out how a K1100 feels with the tall K1 final drive ratio. 

Edit: The paperwork has just arrived with the bike now registered to me. This thing has had sixteen owners since 1993! I was sorting the papers that came with the bike last night, the 55K miles seems genuine, backed-up by the annual test certificates. I can only speculate as to why it's had so many owners who seem to have averaged less than 4 thousand miles apiece.

Just spent the evening wrestling with the final drive housing and managed after much grunting and swearing to separate the two halves. It took a lot of leverage and some resultant scars on the edges of the two casings to unstick the dreaded "white lurgy".

The O-ring is toast but that's not a problem as I have a new one I'll fit along with a new seal. Being a former R1150GSA owner, they and a spare bearing have travelled with me for years and seen quite a few countries so it will be nice to put them to good use at long last.

The bearing is fine:



I've started cleaning the O-ring recess:



It's cleaning up okay (some of the resultant gouges in the casing are visible):



The powder-coat is going to need stripping where it's flaking and the edges feathered before I can apply paint.

Nice work Mike, thanks for taking the time to show us.

G

nice ...
keep going mike  it will look good for sure.

Mike - it's not just the quality of the work you do on the bikes that inspires. The detailed way you photograph and describe the project is fantastic too. Thanks for the thread.

Will

Thanks for the positive comments guys. My motives aren't entirely selfless. Apart from hoping that some may see how simple it is to do, that some of it might help, I've found that documenting the work does help if I come to sell my bikes. It isn't that that's my intention, just that it helps to be able to point out what's been done - that's useful considering the age of our bikes and the concerns people might have about them.

Anyway, today some parts arrived so I've been doing some "reassembly therapy". Continuous scraping, de-greasing and rubbing down gets a bit tedious. Putting things back together acts as a spur to keep going.

I've got the rear half of the final drive casing into a state ready for masking and painting:



The other half is nearly done and the swingarm is de-greased ready for the preparation.

With the final drive bearing de-greased I detected some drag when spinning it so I've decided to use the new bearing that's accompanied me so often on long trips. 

Getting the old bearing off the bevel drive, like so many things so far on this bike, involved more effort than I'm used to. I've detailed a bearing swap elsewhere on the forum. Here it's started to move (and my favourite releasing agent):



Normally, once started, they slip off pretty easily but in this case I resorted to a puller:



The old bearing on the right, the new one, the seal and O-ring that I'll be fitting:



You can see the step where the seal sits here. It's worth gently cleaning-up the exposed part as it might damage the new seal when it pushes through:



Some of the parts that have been cleaned and re-painted:



As the ABS has long ago been removed, the footrest sub-frame brackets that mount the ABS1 are redundant:



So I've cut them off:



Time to re-assemble the cleaned and painted rear caliper:



New pistons and seals fitted, the caliper had the ABS sensor bracket on it. I've removed it and put a couple of stainless screws in to the threads just to tidy things up:



My Motobins order arrived just as I had finished the above. New pads all round and the new rear master cylinder piston kit:



Pads and piston kit fitted:



Time for a cuppa.

it is really a treat and inspiration to follow this kind of commitment, keep it up:D

Nice one Mike, good to see you are still carrying out resto work most of us would happily eat our dinner off! Really enjoying the thread.  
Cheers
Dave

Again, thanks for the positive comments everyone.  

While some painted parts are curing I decided to investigate the wobbly fairing. It shows signs of having taken a heavy thump on the main section just above and behind the headlamp.

I was still considering putting it back on the road temporarily as an LT until later in the year but I wanted to know why the upper section of the fairing was not as solid as it should be. So it was off with the lot:



You may be able to spot the cause of the wobble if you look at the upper arms of the fairing "spider" but here's a couple of better views:





Both captive threads have pulled out taking a chunk of the ABS plastic with them. An attempt to repair it has been made in the past. 

So the whole upper is junk and will be off to the local tip soon. The plan now is to take my time and do the R conversion now. 

The frame is going to need some attention and if you look you'll see that the forks have been dropped through the yokes in an effort to quicken the steering I suppose. Junking the fairing should do that, so I'll restore them to their original position.



The left-hand fork filler has been over-tightened and the cap rotates with the filler. This seems to be a common problem with the Marzocchi forks, I found the same on my K1. I replaced them both even though one was okay so at least I have one to hand.

I'll be fitting K100/K75C handlebars, once I've painted them, so I've started to get the controls ready for removal. I've never stripped the bars from a K1100LT before and had never really noticed that the end-weights have a plastic cap covering them. The left-hand grip peeled back okay but the lower grub-screw didn't want to budge. The top one came out okay (like they do) but the lower was rusted solid as usual. With the top one out I sprayed some releasing fluid through the hole and the bottom screw gave-in after some wiggling back and forth.



With the fairing off I had a good look around. It seems that I'll have trouble adjusting the throttle bodies on this bike, all three screws have lost half of their heads:



Meanwhile, the accumulated gunk is slowly disappearing from the gearbox recess:



Paraffin (kerosene) isn't as easy to source as it once was but it's still an effective de-greaser and cheaper than other stuff. As my garage is under my house and accessed via an internal stairway, there's a slight whiff of paraffin permeating the whole place. Probably explains why I've remained single in the thirty-odd years since my divorce! 

 As my garage is under my house and accessed via an internal stairway, there's a slight whiff of paraffin permeating the whole place. Probably explains why I've remained single in the thirty-odd years since my divorce! 

She who has to be obeyed just laughed and agreed with you totally


I thought she was talking about the difficulty in getting cheap paraffin

Hi Mike,

Another one of your good informative posts.

It seems that I'll have trouble adjusting the throttle bodies on this bike, all three screws have lost half of their heads:

Are they the ones you are not supposed to adjust as they are set using a flow bench? 

Mike

Well that's what some people say but I've ignored it often enough without any issues. Then again, I have a decent set of mercury gauges.

Pet Theory Number Two:

The K-Series was the first EFI equipped bike produced by BMW and probably the first mass-market bike so equipped. They didn't want lots of warranty claims after ham-fisted owners decided to see what would happen if they fiddled with the little screws. It would have done their reputation no good and only played into the hands of the Luddite Boxer Brigade (who didn't want BMW making anything other than opposed twins).

No-one bats an eyelid at the balancing of EFI equipped 4-valve Boxers. Yet the principal is the same: One throttle body is used as a benchmark to which the other is "harmonised" by twiddling the control. Just do the same with two or three throttle bodies on a K (BMW helpfully leave one without any adjustment as the benchmark).

Onwards:

The inner footrest plates have been divested of rust and flaking paint then given a squirt:



The 'C' handlebars being rubbed down (currently in their final coat of paint, just curing):



Here's why I dislike powder-coat:





It can be okay if it's done right. It can last well if looked after. However, if the coating requires a face to be machined after coating (as BMW do all too often) that leaves an edge that is exposed to moisture creeping under. The result is that corrosion creeps along under the thick coating, it isn't able to expose itself immediately owing to the thickness of the coating and does much more damage while hidden than would occur with normal paint.

As mentioned, I'm going to fit a BMW 'touring' screen to this bike. My old K75C had the same type and although it probably isn't terribly pretty it is very effective. So among the other bits, the brackets needed a bit of attention. I've stripped them and given them a squirt of satin black:



They and the 'C' bars are done:



Once the bars have had a bit more time to fully cure, I'll do the fiddly job of feeding the heated grip wires through. Which reminds me, the bar end-weight tubes need to be modified for heated grips. The ones that I have don't have the cut-out for the wires to pass through.

The swing-arm and final drive casings are almost ready:



I've found some clear enamel lacquer so I'll try it out on these. It used to be quite common but until recently it's been hard to find. In the past when I've used it, it tends to darken the paint finish slightly. That won't be a problem as this silver is a bit brighter than the original.



I'm in two minds whether to remove the gearbox and give it the same treatment. It's actually not in too bad a condition. It's not my intention to turn out the sort of finish that I've done to the last four bikes because I want this to be just a clean, everyday, all weather ride. I have no idea as to the state of the clutch but the paperwork suggests that the friction plate was replaced not too long ago. I'll probably leave it but make certain that the fixings are all free so if or when I need to get the 'box out, it will be relatively easy to do.

Is that silver the halfords heat proof I saw you refer to in some post Mike?

Yes Will. They do an aluminium too. I've tried them both and there seems to be little difference in colour.

Their range is increasing both in colours and application. The colour range is wider than Hammerite's and it's cheaper per can but the cans are smaller. They now do a clear lacquer, a primer and an adhesion coating (for non-ferrous metals). There's a 'rubberised' black too. It's intended for high impact areas. I've tried it and it does seem more chip resistant but it takes quite a lot longer to cure to the point where it does what's claimed.

They don't seem to do a satin black yet (just high gloss and matt) so I'm sticking to trusty old Hammerite smooth for that.

 

Fantastic work Mike, truly inspiring many thanks for sharing all this I found the final drive strip very interesting as a lot of my pals have had GS issues.
I aggree on the Halfords paint I used the same stuff when I rebuilt mine and it came out fine Its a shame the manufacturers don't use anti seize compound when building their bikes it would save a lot of headache later on.

BIG D

MikeP wrote:They don't seem to do a satin black yet (just high gloss and matt) so I'm sticking to trusty old Hammerite smooth for that.

Mike,  You can always get your desired surface texture from the clear coat.  So, even though you spray gloss, the clear can reduce that to satin without affecting the colour tone.  Does Hallfords make a two-part clear, like Spraymax in North America?

Rob,

Only a high gloss clear lacquer. It's not much of a problem while Hammerite produce such a good satin black.

I thought that I'd grab a comparison shot of C & RT/LT bars:



One of the good things about going down a size of bars is that the heated grip wires are longer so I could afford to lose a bit of them to pare the sheathing back a couple of inches. This exposed the two inner wires that I then twisted together, in turn that made poking the wires through the central hole and around the curves a lot easier. It took much less time than the last time I did this but then I didn't have as much wire to play with on that bike.

So the top yoke could have a quick clean and demonstrates a future issue - the cast ignition tower means that fitting a crash pad for C bars is out of the question. I'll need to find a way to house the rocker switches;



Then on with the new ones and replace the controls (you can see the twisted heated grip wires poking out. I'll solder and heat-shrink connections in due course);



The silver painted parts have had a clear lacquer coat and while they're drying I thought that I'd mock-up the headlamp and gauges;



The steering/ignition lock means that I had to cut out a portion of the back plate to clear it. The different shape of the steering yokes on the 16v bikes means that some spacers are needed. The holes are in-line but the concave shape of the yokes mean that the plate is stopped by the stanchions from sitting flush with the upper yoke. The 16v ones are also further apart so that means that some brackets will need to be knocked-up to align the lower mounting points of the headlamp/cowl plate. My initial thoughts are to fabricate suitable brackets, then drill and tap receiving threads into the lower yoke.

I have a pretty tatty cowl for the headlamp (minus the black louvred insert which is on the way). I just want to see how the older model parts fit and how much adaptation is required.



I need to experiment with the mounting of the clocks. They screw straight onto the plastic back plate without the usual damper rubbers. I may see if I can cobble together a mount that will allow the use of the dampers, we all know how susceptible to vibration the Motometer can be.

So the top yoke could have a quick clean and demonstrates a future issue - the cast ignition tower means that fitting a crash pad for C bars is out of the question. I'll need to find a way to house the rocker switches;

Mike,  Could you get a machine shop to mill off the cast keyswitch tower and then do something similar to what I did with my K75 build?

I took my K1100 triple clamp to a machine shop, along with the K75 key switch.  They measured and bored out the key switch hole on the triple clamp until the K75 switch fit tightly.

In the final build, I have inserted the switch from below and used a bead of silicone sealant to secure the switch (more of an insurance policy than required; the fit was perfect).  The switch's bezel can be fitted but I've chosen not to do that.

This might allow you to fit a modified K100 crash pad, with the associated switches.

I'm not sure that it's possible with the 1100 Rob. The ignition lock also works the steering lock.

I've been scrubbing away like a skivvy, there's a lot to do. 



The rear mudguard now weighs about a kilo lighter with all the accumulated soil, grit and tar to which it all adhered. Took me bloody ages to scrape it all off the inside. The outside will be buffed-up in due course.

The fan runs. I shouldn't be surprised as the paperwork shows that it was replaced not so long ago but it's nice to be sure.



The very second-hand headlamp cowl I'll be using has had a thump at some stage in the past and the right-hand indicator mounting is split. I've glued it together here:



To reinforce the area I've cut and shaped a piece of 1mm aluminium plate to sit inside:





Then that's bonded and clamped until the adhesive is fixed:



The surface crack will be filled, probably just needing stopper as opposed to body filler, then the cowl can be rubbed down and painted.

Before taking the fairing panels to the dump for re-cycling, I decided to hack out the grill section of the front panel:



A quick whizz round with a cutting disc and hey-presto!



Once I'd trimmed the edges I tried it to see if it would work as stone-guard. It's not a perfect match, the lower corners being rounded don't look quite correct but it will do. The next step was to work out how to mount it. I want to be able to remove it to clean behind now and then.

I've recycled some of the clips from various fairing panels:



And reused some edge-rubber:



Next I knocked-up some brackets and made use of a couple of handy extensions on the radiator header rail and riveted them on:



This set up will allow me to undo the screws and remove the guard easily when the need arises (the brackets will be painted in due course):



With a similar arrangement at the bottom, the guard is snug against the radiator:



Then it's a rubbing down (fiddly buggers those elongated hexagonal slots) and a coat of plasticised primer (inside and out):



Followed by a top-coat (front and rear):



Tomorrow I'll check the coverage and get the clear-coat on.

Nice to see an Irish number plate in the background too.....

It's a Dublin number and was on my K1 when I bought it (the bike was a UK one exported to Eire and then back to me).

First thing today I squirted the radiator guard with a coat of fuel-resistant clear lacquer. It will do:



Then I popped-out to collect the seat. It was sound but I couldn't live with the baby-poo colour:



So my local trimmer did this for me:



I've known Ian for donkey's years. It's nice to be able to farm out jobs and not wonder what sort of result you'll see later.

So far today, all I've done is flatted the cowl and the ebay front mudguard halves ready for a guide coat. There are some fairly deep scratches in the rear half of the mudguard, it looks as though someone has used something much too coarse on it at some point:



Hopefully a heavy coat of primer will fill them and the next flatting-down will see them disappear.

Bludy 'ell what a fantastic job. Can I sell my bike to you and then buy it back in 6 months?  

I love the way you glibbley say "heated it up a bit" that part alone would just completly stump me. How hot, how long will it effect the temper or whatever. Maybe I just worry to much  

---

nice work mike

zonenfeile wrote:

Good Idea

but - The 2V Brackets do not fit on the 4V bridge - tried that with mine

you´ve got to take the brackets from the R100R
or pls show me how you made it

Olaf,

I was hoping that the 2-valve K brackets would fit, perhaps with a little modification. As the K-series set-up is as rare as hen's teeth and the R100R one is even less commonly seen second-hand, I'll probably end up just cutting my losses and selling this screen. 

It's a shame as I looked long and hard to find this one. I really learned to appreciate the one on my K75C.

Ohmmmm
calm down
the prob is not the fork diameter but the fastening
i thought about modifying the 2v bracket but that turned out to be a complete new construction... incl distroying the org. part

just open your eyes and search - you´ll find an R100R set on e-bay

we´ve got so many BMW guys around here and i just asked
after 2 days a rusty R100R bracket set was found on my door (without knowin  if it might work)
10 min later I roughly checked it -> 100%
because: the R100R has got a modifyed Showa fork as the K75 - but fork brackets like the 4V k´s 
so BMW = Lego 

one little change / addition  is needed: - I´ll tell you when you found one

go on you´ve got still enough work

I'm quite calm thanks and I know that it's not the stanchion diameter; the upright bar fouls the top-yoke pinch bolts.

Once the primer is good and dry I skimmed the worst scratches and dints with knifing stopper:



Then they were flatted back. First dry sanded and then wet:





The bottom half of the tail unit was given a rub too:



Then another coat of primer to check that the stopper is feathered-in fully:



Then they were again wet sanded but this time with 1200 grit before giving the edges a squirt with colour coat:





I may get the upper surfaces colour coated today but in the mean time I'me selecting the best indicators from my collection - the front ones for the cowl have a different shaped black section and I only have two of those but I can put together four decent lenses I think.

Edit: Just squirted the colour coat on:

My collection of front and rear indicators ready to select the best:



The front version has a different shaped black section, it's longer and the mounting lugs are different:





The front mountings are still available from BMW but pricey and quite rare second-hand.

Next job was to clean up the four that I've selected. Here's a tip: Use a paint cutting compound, just rub it on and buff it off:



Of the eight indicator lenses, only four have the locating tabs left and one of those is missing the two "prongs" on the tab. There are some ham-fisted people out there:



I've finished painting the lower section of the tail unit (satin) and given the upper half a clean and polish. The photo doesn't show the marks left by bungee hooks (spawn of the devil those things) in the flanks. I was tempted to re-paint it but for now it will do. Re-assembled with the cleaned indicators added (note the absence of pillion handles and the blanking plugs - the 35 litre top-box rack would foul the handles):



Things were going well. I'm happy with the colour coat on the front mudguard and headlamp cowl. Yesterday they had their first clear coat and today I cut it back with cutting compound ready for the next (heavier) clear coat. Then:



Bugger! It slipped off the wire it was hanging from. Back to square one then. 

Mike your work is fantastic, especially your painting. Is there any chance of writing a "How to paint" all items, ie fiberglass, aluminium in a clear step by step guide for this numpty and perhaps others? Being in the UK the use of Halford's paint and primers makes it easier to obtain rather than the items posted by Halo who's work is also exceptional.