Well, Ive said it before, and Ill say it again - I think Im nearly there...

So, you know the water temp sensor? that simple little gizmo that is so simple its never meant to fail? Yeah, well 3 out of 4 of mine are cactus. 

One of them did not have connectivity, another 2 were stuck at 5.5 k ohms, indicating freezing point, one seemed ok, but for some reason kept the FI thinking the engine was cold and therefore it ran rich when it was up to running temp.

(EDIT: the one that was causing the rich running + flooding was actually for a 16V.    )

The 4th and final seems to be the keeper, as I now have idle, easy cold & hot start etc.

As you will see, the TB's are way out of wack, even though the PO reckons the butterfly adjustments have not been tampered with. Either way, the 3rd and 4th butteryflys were sliiiightly open when I installed them, indicating to me they have been adjusted or they have gone out of wack over time. Now they are very difficult to balance. I have shut the indle adjust screw thringys in all the way and held the throttle open a tad to observe the difference and it looked pretty much the same as it does in the video.

Will play more with the balance next week, but for now Im just totally stocked its running ok!!

Oh, I decided to measure the resistance of the ignition coils and leads. Leads were ok, but one coil gave a reading of 300ohms. I check my spare, ratty looking set and the appropriate replacement measured ok at 10 point something ohms which was the same as the other 'good' one. So from to shagged sets I made one ok one. If anyone is selling a set of the later model ones, please PM me. I have K1100 coils to sell as well.

More to come. Been a busy day.

a good find floyd 

good to hear its idling at least

ride first then adjust ...if need be ...you can tell pretty quick ...on back off then a slight acceleration ...

good luck

Floyd, the carbtune is upside down.  The hoses should be at the top allowing the vacuum generated to suck the metal rods upward.

From the Carbtune site:



Still sounds good though.

Al

AL-58 wrote:Floyd, the carbtune is upside down.  The hoses should be at the top allowing the vacuum generated to suck the metal rods upward.

From the Carbtune site:



Still sounds good though.

Al

Cheers Al, 

Was using it the right way up, then saw a youtube vid of a bloke tuning a K using it upside down, was much easier to read, thought id give it a crack. Will be sure to use it the right way up when I do the adjusting.

BTW, its mercury, not metal rods.

Also managed to extract the pistons from the rear calliper and rebuild it today....

floyd wrote:

AL-58 wrote:Floyd, the carbtune is upside down.  The hoses should be at the top allowing the vacuum generated to suck the metal rods upward.

From the Carbtune site:



Still sounds good though.

Al

Cheers Al, 

Was using it the right way up, then saw a youtube vid of a bloke tuning a K using it upside down, was much easier to read, thought id give it a crack. Will be sure to use it the right way up when I do the adjusting.

BTW, its mercury, not metal rods.

I've got a mercury one(Motion pro), you can't tip it upside down, the mercury separates as its a liquid.  They are a pain in the behind as they have to be kept upright at all times.  The carbtune doesn't have mercury. I've retired my mercury sticks after many years and bought a carbtune as well, no liquids in it.

from http://www.carbtune.com/carboprn.html:
Everyone knows how the mercury Carbtune works.
There is a column of mercury in a tube. The tube is connected to the engine. The vacuum in the engine pulls the mercury up the tube. You take readings off the scale.
It's a good idea until you drop it, turn it upside down or try to transport it.

The mercury free Carbtune Pro is used vertically like a mercury manometer and works in a similar way - except you have a column of stainless steel rising and falling. No chance of that leaking!
The ground and polished stainless steel columns float smoothly through guides that have been machined to fit them. The guide acts like a seal and the column moves through it vertically. This is contained inside a clear plastic tube which gets connected to the engine. The vacuum from the engine draws the stainless steel column up through the guide.
As with the mercury manometer the stronger the vacuum, the higher the column rises.
Simple!
Just like the mercury manometer except it's smaller, there are no liquids to spill and as the Carbtune Pro is made from high impact plastics and metal it is much more robust.


Al

T

Too Pretty. 

Looks like New....but the bleed nipple is mounted where the pipe from the master should be.

Inge K. wrote:Looks like New....but the bleed nipple is mounted where the pipe from the master should be.

That was just to see if you were paying attention mate.

It was promptly corrected when I tried to mount the bugger.

AL-58 wrote:

floyd wrote:

AL-58 wrote:Floyd, the carbtune is upside down.  The hoses should be at the top allowing the vacuum generated to suck the metal rods upward.

From the Carbtune site:



Still sounds good though.

Al

Cheers Al, 

Was using it the right way up, then saw a youtube vid of a bloke tuning a K using it upside down, was much easier to read, thought id give it a crack. Will be sure to use it the right way up when I do the adjusting.

BTW, its mercury, not metal rods.

I've got a mercury one(Motion pro), you can't tip it upside down, the mercury separates as its a liquid.  They are a pain in the behind as they have to be kept upright at all times.  The carbtune doesn't have mercury. I've retired my mercury sticks after many years and bought a carbtune as well, no liquids in it.

from http://www.carbtune.com/carboprn.html:
Everyone knows how the mercury Carbtune works.
There is a column of mercury in a tube. The tube is connected to the engine. The vacuum in the engine pulls the mercury up the tube. You take readings off the scale.
It's a good idea until you drop it, turn it upside down or try to transport it.

The mercury free Carbtune Pro is used vertically like a mercury manometer and works in a similar way - except you have a column of stainless steel rising and falling. No chance of that leaking!
The ground and polished stainless steel columns float smoothly through guides that have been machined to fit them. The guide acts like a seal and the column moves through it vertically. This is contained inside a clear plastic tube which gets connected to the engine. The vacuum from the engine draws the stainless steel column up through the guide.
As with the mercury manometer the stronger the vacuum, the higher the column rises.
Simple!
Just like the mercury manometer except it's smaller, there are no liquids to spill and as the Carbtune Pro is made from high impact plastics and metal it is much more robust.


Al

Well there ya go, they certainly made it look like a liquid

looking quite a beast floyd ...

woohoo !

Gentlemen.....

Im at a loss on this one...


Where the bloody hell does the rear brake light indicator switch mount on the late model 8v foot peg brakets? i did not dismantle these, they were in my boxes of bits......

(I was also going to post the diagram for this part, but I cant find it again. Anyways, I cant figure it out)




Oh....another school boy question.......

Surely....the front brake lines DO NOT go underneath the front fender?

i may be wrong floyd but that switch is different from the 86 or so foot peg plates ....

on those ones the switch is a  threaded cylidrical affair ...that screws throught the small integrated bracket just above the brake pedal


hope that helps

to use the microswitch type you need another little bracket ...me thinks

charlie99 wrote:i may be wrong floyd but that switch is different from the 86 or so foot peg plates ....

on those ones the switch is a  threaded cylidrical affair ...that screws throught the small integrated bracket just above the brake pedal


hope that helps

to use the microswitch type you need another little bracket ...me thinks

You mean like the one that does the front brake on the K100? like a little screw in cylinder on the end of a lead, with a small button on its tip?

yep thats it

in fact they are interchangable  (same connectors at the loom end )

charlie99 wrote:yep thats it

in fact they are interchangable  (same connectors at the loom end )

deadly! Ive got heaps of those!

Thanks Charlie!


(Ive just realised....The K100 clutch light iswitch is on the handle bar lever assembly. The K1100 clutch light switch is on the TB's. I am using a K100 clutch lever and a K1100 TB assembly, and was wondering why I had a switch for the clutch light at both points...  Ill use one for the rear brake switch)

There

floyd wrote:Oh....another school boy question.......

Surely....the front brake lines DO NOT go underneath the front fender?

If I understood your school boy question correctly, Yes they do need to go underneath the front fender on your K1100 forks.  You should have a splitter mounted on the fork brace.  The brake line for each caliper coming off that splitter should exit adjacent to the fork tube between the brace and fender.  Then the line follows a smooth curve to the caliper, hugging the inside of the fender.  I had a devil of a time getting mine right, but they are right now.

floyd wrote: (Ive just realised....The K100 clutch light iswitch is on the handle bar lever assembly. The K1100 clutch light switch is on the TB's. I am using a K100 clutch lever and a K1100 TB assembly, and was wondering why I had a switch for the clutch light at both points...  Ill use one for the rear brake switch)

What is a clutch light switch? I don't have any kind of switch at the TB's on my K11, and definitely not a clutch light switch.

About the picture of your brake light switch, it's shows a -86 model year footrest bridge
and a -87 model year (or later) brake light switch......which you can't mix.

The K100 has a switch on the clutch lever assembly to override the no start in gear function and that switch is the same as the front brake light switch on a K100 and the rear brake light switch on pre 86 K100. The K100s have a choke light switch on all but the latest (91 on I think) on the TBs and that can also be used for a rear brake light switch.

The switch you have pictured cant be used on that foot peg plate you need a later type (87 on I believe).

there is a similar looking switch on the k100 ,,,,it is used for choke indication floyd ,,,,and is attached near the tps    the plunger of the switch connects to a cam which operates when the cable is tensioned and mooves the idle up rail ...possibly the k1100 tbs have that as well ????
just a heads up

charlie99 wrote:possibly the k1100 tbs have that as well ????

The K1100 TB rail is provisioned for such a switch but it usually is not installed.  There is a M8x1.0 threaded hole at the TPS end of the rail.  Screw in a plunger-type clutch switch, hook it up to the harness under the tank and, presto, choke light works.  Did it on my K75.

Non of the Motronic equipped models have this switch mounted from the factory
......and as Rick says, removed from the 2V's as well, from -91 and on.

Gents, the correct brake switch has been well understood since Charlie pointed it out many posts ago. Thanks to all of you!


I have many of the correct switch types and will fit one today. As I said, I didnt dismantle this one and didnt see it together.

Im also clearer now on the other switches. The k100 clutch lever switch is to override the GPI.

The K100 has a clutch light switch on the TBs, and the K1100 TBs also have a provision for this on the TBs, which I am using. And also, see this diagram:

#10. 

Its working as expected for me....



So, all is well and as it should be in the land of little switches....
 
Now I just need to figure out how to get rego without any ownership docs..... 

Ring and ask the RTA, the blueslip is an identity check, if the engine number and VIN number don't show up as dodgy/stolen/already registered somewhere else you might be alright.

Al

AL-58 wrote:Ring and ask the RTA, the blueslip is an identity check, if the engine number and VIN number don't show up as dodgy/stolen/already registered somewhere else you might be alright.

Al

Holy Moly - after all that work, the wrong answer could really spoil your day. 

I wonder if there is someone out there in the forum-down-under just patiently waiting to say "Cheers Floyd - thanks for fixing my bike"!

PaulLipscomb wrote:

AL-58 wrote:Ring and ask the RTA, the blueslip is an identity check, if the engine number and VIN number don't show up as dodgy/stolen/already registered somewhere else you might be alright.

Al

Holy Moly - after all that work, the wrong answer could really spoil your day. 

I wonder if there is someone out there in the forum-down-under just patiently waiting to say "Cheers Floyd - thanks for fixing my bike"!

Yeah I know. Pretty silly huh?

I ran a check the other day through the Aust Govt website and it came back as clean. Not stolen, not currently registered elsewhere, no owed money associated with it.

floyd wrote:

PaulLipscomb wrote:

AL-58 wrote:Ring and ask the RTA, the blueslip is an identity check, if the engine number and VIN number don't show up as dodgy/stolen/already registered somewhere else you might be alright.

Al

Holy Moly - after all that work, the wrong answer could really spoil your day. 

I wonder if there is someone out there in the forum-down-under just patiently waiting to say "Cheers Floyd - thanks for fixing my bike"!

Yeah I know. Pretty silly huh?

I ran a check the other day through the Aust Govt website and it came back as clean. Not stolen, not currently registered elsewhere, no owed money associated with it.

Well, if your bike were stolen, you'd want to be reunited when it was found, yes? And if it was already registered elsewhere, of course they'd want to know why.

The main thing they do is to check/verify the VIN, that it's a correct VIN and not on the write off register(mostly not re-registerable in NSW now). It helps if you have some form of ownership papers or receipt for the frame and the engine stating that number on the receipt.  In my experience, they don't check the receipt, they just want to sight it and photocopy it (at the Blue Slip inspection) for the file (hint).  They aren't worried about build receipts etc, just the ID docs.

I got caught up in one of these years ago trying to re-register a bike that came up as stolen when I was at the registry office.  The police came to the RTA office and took me back to the station.  It turned out that it had been stolen, it had also been recovered but the police on the original case hadn't bothered to change the status so it was still listed as stolen. Lucky me.

Al

Floyd,

It will not prove ownership etc, but on Rick's advice I called BMW and the girl on the phone could not be more helpful.

Get an email from BMW Australia on BMW letterhead with details of the vin, build, dates etc.

It is free and cannot hurt.

rosskko

Thanks all for the paper work advise.

Also, just to clarify, my statement "its a bit silly" meant I was a bit silly for not checking the ownership details etc before spending a shit load of coin on the bike - I didnt mean that its sill that a check is done when you register the bike. 

BTW HERE is the Australian Govt webpage for checking if your bike is stolen etc. It costs $4 and you get an instant report.

Will call BMW now, thanks Rick G via Rossko.

Just taken my K1100 front wheel back to Balmain motorcycles, due to it leaking....Turns out the Hidenau in using is meant to have a tube in it - and they missed it. I know Im about to get messages saying the will wear out etc. He swore blue in the face that its not an issue....we'll see....

It's not that it will wear out if you use a tube but that you should not use a tube in a tyre that is meant to be tubeless, in particular a radial.  If a tyre is marked tube type then you use a tube.  It will distort when cornering and braking/ acceleration and that distortion will cause the tube and tyre to rub which can wear thin spots or holes. Often a tube will last the life of the tyre but reusing it is certainly not recommended.

floyd wrote:

!!!!!THE BEAST LIVES!!!!!  


            :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:           


Just rode around the block a dozen times! What a sweet ride she is so far

Even think I felt my first (suspected) case of the rear end 'twisting' under hard deceleration....

Excellent news on the test runs - bike looks beautiful too.   
Good news on your VIN checks etc. - just hope that the paperwork trail goes smoothly with getting her registered.

Ooooooh I can almost smell those freshly minted number plates!

All lights and switches etc etc working like new. Brake lights, indicators etc etc.

You'll be mildly surprised to hear that my DIY headlight relay set was actually functional all along and my skills at auto wiring are above that of a newt. It was one of the relays under the tank that was at fault! I know, shocking. 

Unfortunately the horns are not working, although power is being sent to them when the button is hit. Will dismantle tonight. Any tips?

Can not get rear brake bled for the life of me, no matter what I tried - and SuperCheap were out of the vacuum style bleeders. Thinking Ill get the mechanic to do it when I take it for a rego check.

All that I need now is some adapters to arrive (please come tomorrow) so I can fit after market mirrors, and rego here I come. 

Thanks again to all of you for reading, posting and assisting.

good luck floyd ....fingers crossed for you

On ya Floyd!

Horn: if there is a nut and a screw on the back of the horn (adjuster), just move the screw around a bit (tighten/loosen) and see if it works. This has worked for me in the past.

Rear brake: what exactly is not happening?Still spongy? How old is the brake hose?

Getting there Flyod   

Good luck with the reggo!

Getting there Flyod   

Good luck with the reggo!

Good luck.

Hey Floyd, prime the rear master cylinder with brake fluid then do the bleed stuff, air just doesn't cooperate.

So close on an awesome build in super quick time, great work by the forum too, congrats all round,

too many helpers to mention but for Floyd a relative novice and this far, amazing!

I think Floyd would be the first to agree, and those who think they need a BMW mechanic, try the forum,

these guys can "talk" you through it, well done forum, but mainly Floyd kudos kudos kudos.

PS   Red frame looks shit with the olive drab! Hey beauty is in the eye....

floyd wrote:Ooooooh I can almost smell those freshly minted number plates!



Can not get rear brake bled for the life of me, no matter what I tried - and SuperCheap were out of the vacuum style bleeders. Thinking Ill get the mechanic to do it when I take it for a rego check.

Have you tried removing the caliper and raising it above the M/C ideally with the bleed nipple at the top.  It allows any air bubbles to go straight 'up' instead of getting trapped in the line at a high point.  Its worked for me on a number of occasions.  You will need to chock something between the pads to stop the pistons from escaping.

Al

Damn....

long day...

Try as I may, I cant bleed the rear. With the caliper off, in the air, standing on my head, mastercylinder full etc etc, just wont work.

Even with a vacume pump bleeder thingy at a bike shop it didnt work.....?

Ive had it apart and nothing is blocked?!?!

Anyways, the bike shop couldnt do blue slips (didnt know wtf that was til today, learn something new...)so he sent me to a place that does. That bloke was a blue slip nazi and refused to even look at thing without an old rego form. Thought I was mad and that I should just walk away from it without the old rego form. Said Id have more luck importing a vehicle then doing what I was proposing.

So then I called around, and the bike shop that I should have gone to first time around said they didnt care about paper work, that was the RTA, but they couldnt fit me in til monday.

So then I called another place who recommended another place (this was all at 5.35pm on a friday arvo mind you) who said sure, come by at 8.30am tomorrow. No need for paperwork. sweeeet.

So I then went back out to the garden and dismantled the rear brake and tried yet again. yet again no joy at all. no fluid is making it all the way through, although there does not seem to be any blockages anywhere.....

Anyways, Ill go to this place tomorrow and see if he can bleed it, or alternatively give me a blue slip with a non functioning rear brake  yeah right....

Ghost who rides wrote:Hey Floyd, prime the rear master cylinder with brake fluid then do the bleed stuff, air just doesn't cooperate.

So close on an awesome build in super quick time, great work by the forum too, congrats all round,

too many helpers to mention but for Floyd a relative novice and this far, amazing!

I think Floyd would be the first to agree, and those who think they need a BMW mechanic, try the forum,

these guys can "talk" you through it, well done forum, but mainly Floyd kudos kudos kudos.

PS   Red frame looks shit with the olive drab! Hey beauty is in the eye....

Thanks Ghost. Your right, long list of folks to thank for sure.

This forum is bloody fantastic. It reason enough to by a K bike really - let alone how nice a bike they are (I clocked up about 30kms today while cruising from bike shop to mechanic to home  )

The wealth of knowledge and resource and the free and open spirit that prevails here is really remarkable. Thanks once again to all!

Oh, and your eyes clearly are holders of little beauty ghosty!

I suppose you have to check one thing at a time:

1 is the fluid making it from the reservoir to the MC? The hose could be crimped or crushed by the footpeg plate.  If you leave MC cap off when you're pumping the pedal can you see the fluid level dropping or any bubbles?

2 if the fluid is getting to the MC, is it leaving the MC when you pump it, check at the hose, not at the caliper bleeder.  What condition is the rubber hose in?

These things are just sent to test us Floyd, you're almost there but its bloody frustrating to get that last glitch.

Al

Ladies, Gentlemen and esteemed guests.

The time has arrived....

It is with enormous gratitude, excitement and little bit of pride - That I can now formal announce......


"B ob M arley & the W ailers" is now officially LEGAL!!!!!

Green slip - check
Blue slip - no worries
Number plate - CHECK!

Rear brake - nope

The feeling of riding a beast like this, where nearly every nut and bolt has passed through my finger tips - priceless 

 :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  :flower:  yay blue smiley men

Congrats............  .

well done Floyd , you must be immensely proud of your rebuild. 
a lot of people here have shared your experience along the way , if not by stalking you, or offering you parts , or just  by sharing their knowledge.
a renovation well deserving of praise.
again well done , enjoy the ride.

Congratulations, enjoy the ride   


K-rider

Any locals got any recommendations for a nice lengthy scenic shake-down ride for me to embark upon tomorrow..?