Hi guys.

I have been looking on getting a BMW after seeing a few I really liked. There were a few cafe builds that a member here (exorcist I think?) did that ended up leading me to this forum.

I came to ask to see if anybody thought this was a good buy:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/3616751691.html

I am thinking of heading up there and checking it out, but did not want to waste a trip unless the value was there.

Thanks!

if its not on the other side of the country, go and offer less...haggle a bit although if it were here it would be considered real good value.....

The bike might seem relatively cheap, but if you keep the accessories as provided it could end up costing you a fortune in maintenance.

groverK wrote:The bike might seem relatively cheap, but if you keep the accessories as provided it could end up costing you a fortune in maintenance.

Yes, those bikini fairings can be a bother. High maintenance ...

I have always associated bikini fairings with slappers, tank slappers and would never use one.

Bike looks good but I know a few have this done after being dropped because of the cost of the replacement plastic. No harm in this if its done right as that sort of damage is cosmetic. Done well you could be having a really nice bike there. The K bike in the photo isnt bad either.

Here's some good advice: http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fyk-purchase-faq.shtml

Even if it passes all the above you're basically buying a naked K. My thoughts are that without the original faring and panniers it should be no more than $2k as it will cost you another $2k to bring it up to stock.

:|

Folks, thanks for having me, while I’m new here, over my 64 years I’ve owned several BM’s, (R69S, R100RS x2, K100RT, K1100LT) and my current bike, K100RS SE ABS1, which I’ve owned for 10 years or so. I also own lots of other bikes (Triumph Rocket III, Harley Sportster x2, Ducati S2 x2, BSA C11, Kawasaki Z1-B, Mach III 500’s x2, KZ750 twin, Honda CB750 K0, Suzuki T500 and T350, Yamaha XS650 and DT250, etc etc.)

 I pulled the K100RS out of storage after a 10 year nap recently and replaced the battery, fuel pump, ultrasonically cleaned the injectors and tested them, changed the oil and filter and coolant. It fired right up, so as I’ve kept the club registration and insurance up, yesterday I gave it a was and went for a ride. 

The bike was running flawlessly and I’d ridden around 40 miles, when the oil light came on. I stopped on the side of the road and put it on the centre stand. With the engine running I could see that it had plenty of oil, and could see it moving around behind the sight glass, so assumed that the light was faulty as I’ve had a few weird electrical problems with this bike.

I continued riding for another 10 miles or so and as I pulled into a little town, was sure I could hear a faint knock. Bugger. I rang the auto club (RACV) and ordered a tow truck. When I got home I dropped the oil and let it drain overnight. This morning I dropped the new K&N oil filter. I measured the oil that came out, about 3.5 litres and it looked pretty clean, but when I tipped it into a container for disposal I saw some tiny golden flakes. No chunks, just tiny flakes the size of a pin head.

I installed a new BMW oil filter and tipped in 3 litres of new oil. Hit the starter button and the oil light went out, then flickered on and off. I can hear a faint knocking from the front of the crankcase, which sounds like rod knock. I’m now debating on whether to rebuild the engine or buy another one. 

Any thoughts? I buy most parts from Motobins and they list new bearings, so I’m wondering if I’ll get away with replacing the main and crank bearings, and reconditioning the oil/water pump, or whether I’ll need to replace the crank and rods. I’ve built plenty of other bike engines over the years, but have never had a K100 engine apart. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers, Terry.

Hi Terry, first I would recommend to open your own thread in a technical section instead of here adding to another’s welcome one; it’ll get you more responses.

Second, before you start pulling the bike apart I would have a good look at why the oil light comes on. Is it an electrical issue? The pressure switch sits at the dirtiest place on the bike and a ground issue could give false indications. Whilst at it, with the laid-up time in consideration - how good are your ground connections? Another thing to look at is the free movement of the oil pressure setting plunger, has it free movement or is there a rim?

Brgds, Rene from NSW

I am puzzled how you could see the oil moving around behind the sight glass when it was running. I have been changing the oil in my Ks over the last few weekends and it was the turn of my Sprint on Saturday. As there was some discussion about oil levels elsewhere I ran it after changing the filter and once it fired the level dropped and it could not be seen, same as always on all my Ks. My mind is thinking if you could see oil that there might have been an overfill situation, even though you say 3.5 litres came out.?

I wonder did you have something going on? Failed oil pump? What oil did you use? Was the filter correct?

You don't say if it is an 8v or 16v engire.

I expect an engine swap.

Hopefully it's not as bad as is sounds. It's still not as bad as the light went out and stayed out, more like it's been going up and down like a bride's nightie.

Using an oil pressure gauge would be another way of looking at it.

Hi,

to our community!


Bernie

Terry, as mentioned, you've - astoundingly - piggy backed onto another member's intro from over a decade ago. How's about dropping into the Forum's main page and making your own Member's Introduction from there? To save time you could cut and paste your (edited) post from here. If you have a specific technical question you should further that by starting a new Troubleshooting or technical thread from the appropriate place.

I will lock this thread down from further posts now so we can move on and not wake up the dead.
Hippiekiller never returned.