Hi Guys,

Got a better set of discs for the front - including ABS ring. Took the wheel off but can't shift these allen bolts. Have all been hit with a hammer. Tried a torx on one, still no luck. Hesitant to use heat as the wheel finish could burn off. Should I drill them? If so what bit size? Just pausing to think before I proceed and wondering what the best option is?



Thanks
DAve

The ones on my K1100 I had to drill the head off and replace them with stainless button head screws. 9 or 10 turned the hex out before they moved but all came out by fingers when I drilled them. I used some antisieze and torqued them to the specified torque and none have moved.
I also did some that had loctite on them and had to use heat to melt the goo and they came out but I am told that loctite was not from the factory.

Thanks I'll try them all with allen/torx and drill what's left and risk a little heat if I can't shift the stumps with mole grips.

Thanks Rick

Hi Dave,

I remember mine had been loctited and where a bu**er to shift I cannot remember the key size but I used a Hex socket and long breaker bar., I cannot remember what size hex it is.

BIG D

Loctite is used on these screws from factory.

If you are concerned about the paint when using heat......
use a 50-60W soldering iron, and mount the bit holder in that....
enough heat would be transferred for this small screws.

Today I made a simple job quite difficult for myself. This is the way I found was very effective to remove the bolts holding the discs. I got them all out in about an hour with heat.

Step 1. Tap in the hex drive with a hammer gently (the photo shows is a torx because I tried to remove the bolt cold with a hex and rounded it off). Then apply heat. The paint on the wheel was unnaffected (of course I was quite careful where I pointed the flame!). I wasn't too concerned about the disc as it's scrap.



Step 2. Put the drive on and remove



The heat melts the thread sealant and hey presto .

Question: Does Loctite also melt with heat like the BMW thread sealant I presume was used here or do I need to get BMW thread sealant before I put the new discs on?

Cheers
Dave

Thanks for the update, I was also stuck with this and will give your method a go. Looks like we are doing exactly the same thing at the moment but you are slightly ahead of me

Loctite melts when heat is added, I have used blue loctite on these screws. (can be dismounted with hand tools).

But I guess red loctite is used on these from factory. (heat must be added when dismounting).

Ringfad wrote:Thanks for the update, I was also stuck with this and will give your method a go. Looks like we are doing exactly the same thing at the moment but you are slightly ahead of me

It should really help Ringfad; like chalk and cheese. I applied quite a lot of heat - until the hex drive was starting to glow red at the edges. Not sure if this is correct but less than this and there was still a lot of initial resistance.

Inge K. wrote:Loctite melts when heat is added, I have used blue loctite on these screws. (can be dismounted with hand tools).

But I guess red loctite is used on these from factory. (heat must be added when dismounting).

Thanks Inge. I have some 243 which apparently 'can be unmade with normal hand tools'

Cheers
Dave

Which is the same I have used.

Inge K. wrote:Which is the same I have used.

Excellent mate. Thanks. I'll do it tomorrow - I am in need of a nightcap

I read through a long advice question and answer session on another site with a Loctite applications specialist who goes under the pen name of Dirty Sanchez His advice was very good and worth ploughing through, the bottom line is he recommends using Loctite on all threads metal into metal to prevent corrosion and loosening.

A particular question was raised about using stainless steel screws in alloy which are prone to corrosion and seizing in place. He pointed out to get corrosion and electrochemical reaction you needed water and oxygen to get into the thread, if it is filled with Loctite neither can enter in meaningful quantities so there will be no electrochemical corrosion which is great news.

Second point was do not ever get Loctite or similar near plastic it will cause the plastic to break down.

Third point use blue Loctite on all bolts except those that mandate the use of red, Red Loctite always needs heat to get it to release the temperature being 500F or 260C therefore never use red on something which cannot take that sort of temperature such as something that incorporates rubber parts.

Purple the lowest strength can be used on small screws which need to be undone with a small screwdriver or small Allen key. The anaerobic sealants like Loctite always exclude moisture and air and will actively prevent corrosion of the screw by filling the thread.

Last point when the bottle starts to look dirty and or slightly sticky it is time to dispose of it if you want the guaranteed strength, this is because the bottles are micro-porous to allow air in and when the Loctite is going the other way it is past its use by date.

Regards,
K-BIKE

Useful advice , thanks K-BIKE

Good to see you are having some success Dave, usual words of wisdom from the guys, yes I used the 243 when I did mine good thing Loctite we use it on the planes and the differant types go from mild to wild in strength and Like the guy's said it can help keep corrosion at bay.



BIG D