Hi All, I need to replace the disc rotors they are under spec. Is there an alternative replacement disc that fits? or some second hand good ones from any reader,Im on a budget would like original new but so expensive Cheers Coopz

kmodel beemer bits down the south of nsw offer a rear disk replacement  at a cheaper than normal price
drilling out the rivets is required to fit them on but as more than 50 dollars cheaper could be an cost saving ?

https://kmodelbeamerbits.com.au/bmwk-seriesshop.html#!/K75-K100-K1100-K1200-New-Aftermarket-Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-P4/p/68896194/category=23450039



btw. I found that the front disks available from motobins (not ebc or original ) were a lot cheaper landed here  than many alternatives available , and so far work well  , just use the standard pads to protect them rather than sintered pads , which on  these tend to squeal at light application .

good luck

thanks for info Charlie much appreciated.

For reference purposes, EBC part numbers are often used by other aftermarket brands to cross with their part numbers. I don't know what your model is but will assume the conversation is around the standard non-floating 285mm front discs and rear disc of most K75/K100-8V and the rear of 16V models, R1100RS Oilhead and the newer K1200RS/GT. These are the 'replica' brake disc, not a wave or petal type. The front 305mm floaters of the 16V models are not included here.

EBC rear non-ABS is MD611 (with carrier) - BMW part number 34 21 2 310 206

EBC front left is MD604LS - BMW part number 34 11 2 316 069 in silver
EBC front right is MD604RS - BMW part number 34 11 2 316 070 in silver
or BMW part number 34 11 1 457 386 (x 2) in black

EBC rear ABS is MD661 (with carrier) - BMW part number 34 51 2 310 305

They all have a retail price of US$224.94 and if anyone needs one or more I can get them to you for $179 each (no sales tax) plus postage to your door.

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse here, but I'm looking at the EBC MD611 to replace my warped/minimum spec rear rotor. If my understanding is correct, it looks like it's mounted to the final drive using the two recessed bolts and then sandwiched using the wheel and the four lug bolts? Am I missing anything? That almost seems too easy, there's gotta be a catch.

The catch is that the countersunk screws that hold the disc are installed with that feckin' red Loctite.  If you try to remove them without heating them good and hot first, you will round out the internal hex and create a truly entertaining project.

Thanks for the info! I KNEW there was a catch. Heating up the bolts I can do. Thanks again.

Here's an EBC MD611 which will be fitted to my '87 RS later this year. It comes 'complete', ready to bolt on. I use new tapered seat screws each time and never loc-tite, but always a smudge of anti-sieze. They're not coming out with the four lug bolts holding them against the final drive.

That's kinda what I was seeing/hoping, hence my trepidation about how easy it looked-I've been suckered before... 

Was the Red Loctite used as a trap to punish owners who didn't use dealer service?

G'day Coopz & Tom , when I replaced my front rotors I used "Braking" an Italian brand , similar concept to what Charlie suggested in his response , remove & refit from disc carriers , they work very well . On the rear I also used an EBC complete carrier & disc , straight bolt up and yes look out for the loctite !

John Re

Melbourne Australia

Found this for the correct Braking disc

http://www.braking.com/catalogue/dettaglio_prodotto.php?codice_articolo=BW02FI

John Re

Melbourne Australia

If you do get stuffed by the Loctite, drill the heads off carefully starting with a 6mm drill bit. That should leave about 5-6mm standing proud. Again, carefully, file a flat on opposite sides until you can just get a 6mm or 7mm AF spanner on there. At this point I was expecting a real fight to get the remains of the bolts out, but they just unwound as easy as pie. I guess that was because you're no longer fighting the stiction/corrosion of the bolt heads against the disc.

And no, I can't see the bloody point of them. Clamped between the wheel and the drive until with four 12mm wheel bolts done up with huge amounts of torque, the brake disc ain't gonna be moving anywhere.

Any one attached a carrier to disc rotor with rivets...wondering what the rivets are made from...looks like some kind of stainless...also wondering if you can buy them ...any one use nuts and bolts to hold rotor to carrier...bike is k100rt 1988...regards Tez

I use A2-grade stainless nuts and bolts fitted with a healthy dose of Loctite 641 Threadlock. Done it on BMWs and Moto Guzzis with no problems. There's a minor catch: you will need to use dome-head allen bolts and NO washers to clear the insides of the front forks. Put a washer between the nut and the carrier on the inside of the disc. There's a little more clearance on the rear disc but not much.

Thanks Dai ill give that a go...have to get bike registered so hopefully that work around is allowed regards tez from sydney

My old Peugeot 405 has the same arrangement on the front discs.

The screws are to stop the disc falling off when you remove the wheel. The wheel bolts are what keep your disc in place. If you put the tapered screws back they don't need to be more than lightly torqued as they cant go anywhere.

If you are unfortunate enough to round out the shallow hex in the countersunk screws holding the disk, you can safely drill out the centre of the screw as the depth of the threaded hole in the hub is greater than the length of screw. Then apply heat and a screw removal tool.

Note that this advice is based on my experience when replacing the rear disk on my K1100LT where I was lucky enough to get one out and then was able to measure hole depth versus screw length before attacking the other with the drill. I assume the K100/75 set up is the same.

I've since learned a safe method of heating up the bolts to release the loctite before I round out the the hex in the bolt heads. It is described in Post 8 at this thread.

Cheers

I did not heat the recessed hex bolts, one came out with air impact wrench the other rounded out the hex head on the recessed bolt.  I spent 4-5 hours and broke 3 drill bits drilling out out the bolt.  My drill bits were horrible to begin with.  Unfortunately, I did not read this post prior to attempting the removal. 
I actually did not believe I was going to be able to achieve the removal of the bolt!!!
Jim

I did my rear disc on the 88 2v a while back. No problems removing the carrier and disc off the FD.
I bought a Metal Gear disc from Show 'n Go in Adelaide. It was a new disc but I'm pretty sure they are M/C wreckers as well.
I think you'd have a little difficulty drilling the rivets out as they're high tensile and there's quite a few. You'll probably go through a few drill bits. I ground mine off with a thin cutting disc but do it on the disc side not the carrier side to avoid damage. Bolts and lock nuts were provided with the disc.

I found something on Aliexpress. Rear disc without carrier which could go on front wheel probably. The price is cca 100 US dollar.
Regards

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001029858918.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.281c7d13unghe8&algo_pvid=0e0d918c-c102-4b95-aabc-20995748c9b0&algo_expid=0e0d918c-c102-4b95-aabc-20995748c9b0-1&btsid=0b0a556916044957955515167e020c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_