I know some of you have been over this track before as I've read the posts from the google search of the forum.

I decided to knock off work an hour early today in order to fit the new rear Grimeca rear disk which arrived from Motobins yesterday. I got as far as the two allen head retaining screws which duly wrung off. ( I had ordered replacements with the disk). After removing the exhaust (one stud broke there too ), trying and failing with stud extractors, I proceeded to drill out the heads. Vice grips have not succeeded in budging the remains either and the metal in them is so soft I'm now left with 2 ugly little stumps.

My question is.....should I remove the Final drive and try to drill and tap them out or just mount the new disk on the stumps. The screws seem to only hold the disk in place until the wheel nuts are clamped up as far as I can see.

88KE

88 - your call really, they are only for assembly purposes, the wheel bolts do all of the work.

I had the same problem. For your peace find some good metal workshop. They will remove broken bolts precisely.
And you will be happy

Cut the heads off the new ones and superglue them to the stubs of the old ones






Only kidding 88!
Hope you get it sorted - beyond my skill set by a furlong
Best
Dave

MT350Explorer wrote:Cut the heads off the new ones and superglue them to the stubs of the old ones


Only kidding 88!
Hope you get it sorted - beyond my skill set by a furlong
Best
Dave

Thought you were going to say weld it. :-)

if you take the drive off 88 ,it will give you the ability to get some penetrating fluid around the threads at least

let them soak for maybe overnight at least , adding a little more as you see it working .

you may need to clamp up the drive in a vice , use the square drive pinion section of the housing in "soft jaws "vice ,as when off they seem to moove around pretty easy and no flat surface to get to

get a hack saw and carefully cut a groove across one of the "now stubs" as fine a blade as you can .

this might let you get a sturdy flat headed screwdriver in there and try and turn them out

before you do anything though get a good hammer ...and hit the stub firmly on its face ..just the once ....we find this is usefull for "breaking " the bond between the screw and the housing

just a though ....

good luck mate

These screws are glued with a thread locker (Like this one)
Give it a bit of heat, hit the stub firmly on its face and then it should be a piece of cake.
I replaced my disk about 4 months ago, and yes they could be hard to remove.

CF

Crazy Frog wrote:These screws are glued with a thread locker (Like this one)
Give it a bit of heat, hit the stub firmly on its face and then it should be a piece of cake.
I replaced my disk about 4 months ago, and yes they could be hard to remove.

CF

Thanks CF, Nino and Charlie - I had applied a bit of heatr as I could see the thread lock on the new studs but not too much as I was afraid I might damage some seal or something in the FD. It didn't occur to me to hit it and I don't know why. I will try all of those things Heat hit and cutting with a hachsaw to see if I can remove it, If all else fails I will be trying Nino's suggestion and off to the engineering shop. The exhaust stud is going to be a bigger problem I think.

88

Thread can be stock by corrosion, over tightening or thread locker glue. When you apply a big shock on the body of the screw, it stretch the softer threaded material (by less than 1/10,000") and separates the bond between the 2 parts (screw and threaded hole).
This is a Technic well use by mechanics.

CF

Same problem I had, I have one final drive in a shop getting drilled out after I broke the head off whilst trying an "easy out"remover tool. Ha.
Am now riding with a spare unit without the retaining bolts in, I cannot see what they do except for alignment on replacing the unit. If I ever get financial enough to buy a brand new disc I will replace them then.
RT

i feel your pain 88 , having had the extact same thing happen. it is merely a momentary setback and not a complete halt to proceedings.

beanoldboy wrote:i feel your pain 88 , having had the extact same thing happen. it is merely a momentary setback and not a complete halt to proceedings.

Thanks for the encouragement Bean but at the moment it feels like it's going to be a real SloMo setback . Did you every repremand yourself for ever having started something?

I got as far as unnbolting everything for the FD but the speedo sensor wont budge and I'm a little wary of these sensitive parts so I parked that for a while and turned my attention to the Exhaust Studs. (I removed it for better access with a bigger drill for the brake retaining screws.)

One stud had wrung off at the flange and all the nuts were in really bad condition having been reused once too often by a previous owner. Having read the forum here I decided to remove them all for a clean up and new nuts. I must have been getting tired becuase I attacked the wrong stud with the vice grips and wrung it off in the head. . At that stage it was close to midnight and I admitted defeat and retreated to bed before doing any more damage.

Looking at it in the cold light of Day. I will now proceed to remove the cylinder head and bring it to the local enginerring shop to extract the stud remains.

Looks like I'm off the road for a while! On the plus side I'll get a chance to really see into the mechanicals of this machine - I'm still on a huge learning curve with the K. I'll get to inspect the cam chain and paint the engine covers while they're off too, somethings that have been on the "to do" list for a long time.

88KE

With regards the speedo drive use two very fine blades and get them under the flange you should then be able to lever it out but use equal force on oposite sides or you could break the spigot that holds the sensor.
CAUTION clean carefully around the sensor before removing as it collects sand etc and that will fall into the drive via the hole.
Heat is the answer. Ues a gas welding torch and heat the screw as quickly as possible and the thread lock will soften and the bolt almost falls out. Apply the heat very locally to the head of the bolt and dont let it get red hot or you will need to replace it.

dang ...sad to hear that 88

heres hoping it all gets fixed up ...cheers and comiserations

charlie99 wrote:dang ...sad to hear that 88

heres hoping it all gets fixed up ...cheers and comiserations

Thanks Charlie, It'll get fixed up ok because it has to!

Since getting back on the bike I've bene using it for the weekly forray to Dublin city centre and the saving in time fuel and parking fees really justifies keeping the bike on the road, not to mention the enjoyment. So we'll get over the hurdle somehow!

88