Hi Guys,

As above, got a nice s/h adjustable front brake lever from Motorworks for my smaller-than-the average-German hands . On my other bike this is an easy screw/unscrew 2 minute job but from the manuals I am unclear if it is as straightfrward on the K?



Also, have a new rear brake pedal (old one corroded beneath) and two really good 'new' front discs (getting thin and one is badly scored; £60 a pair rather than £250 each!) so a few jobs to keep me occupied as the snow falls.

Cheers
Dave

AFAIK they are all the same thru to the end of the K1100 but there were a lot of changes in the 94 models.
Real OEM says they are the same.

Thanks Rick, yeah I think the part is right - but when I remove the old lever it won't piss fluid everywhere will it?
Cheers
Dave

All will be dry when you have done the deed. There is an adjuster screw that you may need to play with No 7 here http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0526&mospid=51710&btnr=32_0784&hg=32&fg=72

Thanks mate much appreciated

Hi MT350Explorer

Can you let us know the steps you go through to replace the lever as I also want to do the same thing. Thanks

Sue thing will post up some pics

Good on you, there are a lot of us who would probably want to follow the path you have selected, I have big hands but it always feels a big stretch to ride with my hand open on the lever.
Regards,
K-BIKE

It could be a good idea to check (and eventually change) the boot at the same time,
it tends to have a rather loose fit at the outer circumference after some years.

Blue loctite should be used both on the pivot screw and the adjusting screw,
cause the pivot screw moves/turns when the lever is used...the adj. screw isn't
tightned against any surface or have a nut to secure it.

If you have a small amount of play at the lever, I would have leaved the adj. screw
alone.......if you feel it need to be adjusted, the procedure is: turn the screw until
it touches the piston, back off a half turn.

Put a small dab of grease at the end of the adj. screw, where it contacts the piston.

Cheers K-BIKE. Here you go Ringfad- it is straightforward (but only when you know how ).

1. Remove this screw



2. Looks like this underneath. Ignore the big flathead screw for now it's only for handle adjustment.



3. Get underneath the handlebars, look up and find the allen head bolt that secures the lever. This is it with a socket wrench in it.



4. Close-up. It is quite difficult to get good access to the allen bolt. Make sure the allen head is a good solid fit; my bolt was threadlocked and pretty stiff so there's a risk of rounding off.



5. This is the bolt removed; I replaced the the plastic 'boot' outlined in yellow (as Motorworks suggested on their homepage and Inge mentions below). The lever simply pulls out from the front with this removed. I applied new threadlock and put it back with the new lever in place.



Now adjust the screw in 2 as Inge says above and threadlock it.

Cheers
Dave

Many thanks for this guide. I know what I am doing tomorrow

Excellent instructions thanks very much.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Dave, no parts left over???

ReneZ wrote:Dave, no parts left over???

If you have any bits left over then there were too many in there to start.