51 Re: Starter or Sprag clutch failure Thu Apr 15, 2021 10:46 pm
Laitch
Life time member
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daveyson wrote:I googled plejlstang and got con rod, which matches your description. By the way, which number cylinder did it pop out of?
Your plan sounds good.
Good luck.
88 wrote:You are always welcome to what help can be given from a distance my Viking friend.
You split the gearbox and final drive as before the you can remove the intermediate flange to get at it.
Easy Peary
92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:
I thought the crank case vent into the airbox is through the Z pipe??
Long time since i have seen a photo like that.
Laitch wrote:When it comes to blasts, this event might just have been a case of what goes around comes around.
Danish biker wrote:Now that you know how to post photos, don't miss the next opportunity. Use a selfie stick, too.Laitch wrote:You should have . . . seen my face, when the sprang clutch failed to engage twice on my first ride.
Now that you know how to post photos, don't miss the next opportunity. Use a selfie stick, too.Danish biker wrote:You should have . . . seen my face, when the sprang clutch failed to engage twice on my first ride.
I have heard of people using a product like Rislone to clean the system and end this problem. I have used it in other vehicles to free up sticky lifters. Add the amount recommended to your oil and run the bike for a couple hundred miles then change the oil. You can push/bump start your bike if needed to start and run it for this.daveyson wrote:When you say the former owner claimed the sprag is OK, that made me think it's second hand. Even a new one that slips a lot will soon have more wear than normal.
You have a few options now to consider. I'd consider the easy ones first, that don't require dismantling the engine.
moriarti wrote:Hi D/B,With respect your question should be, What oil will safely lubricate the engine and at the same time cure Sprag Clutch problem.
All auto and truck engine oils lubricate the whole engine and work in vehicles with dry clutches. Take your helmet and some canteens to the base's garage to collect some from there.Danish biker wrote:If I’m actually going mineral shouldn’t I go Full Monty and find one for a dry clutch?
And obviously one that lubricates the whole engine etc.?
moriarti wrote:Too many choices on the market, so i use what i know works that way problems are avoided
I hear you brother. How ever I’ve been through many oils, how ever not minerals.Laitch wrote:All auto and truck engine oils lubricate the whole engine and work in vehicles with dry clutches. Take your helmet and some canteens to the base's garage to collect some from there.
Last edited by Danish biker on Sun May 23, 2021 12:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
In any other subject that could sound like meRicK G wrote:and tell us all just how smart he is.
Danish biker wrote:I hear you brother.
Danish biker wrote:I’m back
Page up and down has been postet about the fact that some brick owners like me have a sprang clutch issue.
The clutch doesn’t engage, but spins and spins and spins. You can get it to engage by jerking the bike forward and especially back in 2. gear. Or you can do the WD40 job.
It is clear to me that if I do a oil change the problem will disappear for about 1.000 km.
So I’m researching the “choice of oil” but only from a “I got Sprang clutch problems” point of view.
I’ve been told I should stop listening to all the advice about semi- or full synthetic oil, and shift to a mineral oil like Motul 4T 3000 20W50. Someone on this forum had same problem as I’m facing, and shiftet to this oil and the problem went away. Obviously I’m going to try this oil in the near future, how ever I just changed oil (Spectro 4 SAE 20W50) and filter and cleaned the engine with a “solvent” running in the oil for 20 minutes before oil change so I’ll be good to go for the next 1.000 km or so.
My question to the experts is:
What oil (if any) did (does) BMW recommend for a 1992 K1100 RS. Is it a mineral, a semi synthetic or a full synthetic?
Last edited by Arlina on Mon May 24, 2021 4:29 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Separated the answer out of the quote.)
Comma XFMOTIG X FLOW 20/50 OR TripleQX 15/40Danish biker wrote:moriarti wrote:Too many choices on the market, so i use what i know works that way problems are avoided
So the $100.000 question that remains to be answered is:
“What oil do you use?”
Our mutual friend told me so. He just didn’t say who Olaf was. Know I know I’m definitely going for the Motul92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:
I am using that Motul oil and its great, problem disappeared and it meets the requirements for a K engine.
Thanks my badTwo Wheels Better wrote:I have merged these two threads because, well, they're the same thing; a continuation of information and easier to locate for those interested, not an entirely new thread.
Most of the engine can be clean but the sprag clutch assembly can still be so clogged with residue—or defective in other ways—that cleaning products only result in the kind of unreliable performance that you are experiencing. If Olaf's recommendation doesn't result in reliable performance, you can keep trying one dosage after another or the application of other products. If none of them increase the reliability of the clutch, it should be removed, inspected, hand-cleaned, sprags and/or springs replaced where necessary then reinstalled, like in Alby's thread here about this problem.Danish biker wrote:So with a engine cleaning and new oil this shouldn’t happen??
Last edited by Laitch on Tue May 25, 2021 1:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
moriarti wrote:To keep costs down and get best results give the engine a DIESEL FLUSH, If that doesn't work Strip down required.
Ok so NOT Diesel engine Oil but diesel fuel (what you buy at a gas station and makes your diesel car move/run)?moriarti wrote:OK Don't Panic System A. Drain all engine oil refill to max with DIESEL FUEL. Remove spark plugs, spin engine 10/20 seconds, repeat a few times, over say 15/20 minutes remember you are trying to WASH the sprag clean. Now drain engine and mix engine oil with diesel fuel 50/50 fill to max replace plugs run engine up to 1500rpm until fan kicks in stop engine wait 20 min, repeat 3/4 times. Drain engine change filter fill with new oil .Should problem reoccur grab your spanners
No B/S just years of experiance ,
You have a nice garage, anyway. What's the dog—a fluffy Pembroke Corgi? If that's you in the photo, what are you drinking after a few hours saturated with diesel and diesel oil?Danish biker wrote:I’m a bit like: Crap
Laitch wrote:You have a nice garage, anyway. What's the dog—a fluffy Pembroke Corgi? If that's you in the photo, what are you drinking after a few hours saturated with diesel and diesel oil?Danish biker wrote:I’m a bit like: Crap
moriarti wrote: OK you tried your best time to move on and dismantle the bike.
You will find all the help you need on the Forum, Good Luck
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