All back together, teeny shroud bolts now coated in anti-seize... Hopefully the heatproof black will stay on the shroud for a while. 

I just used Rustoleum satin black on mine and it hasn't been heat effected yet. So heat proof will definitely stick.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:I just used Rustoleum satin black on mine and it hasn't been heat effected yet. So heat proof will definitely stick.
Regards Martin.

Brilliant paint but not sure how it works. Used it on part of the frame of my K100RT in 2013 and still looks like new. Used in on my heat shield and not so good but I used bike in winter and there is salt ends up trapped under it. My RS got a new heat shield last summer and it wasn't in great shape when I swapped it this time for another brand new one. Might put Rustoleum on the now old one as it came off in one piece.

I love the disc, mine was one of those too ....while you are there with that heat gun crack out the two bolts holding the disc on and put them back with anti seize.....

Another job done, all 3 callipers overhauled & refitted. Not without some drama, the overhaul kits were bought from Motobins that quoted a kit (Ariete branded) to suit early K100 and some R series, so without any thought I ordered the 3 sets. HOWEVER on rebuilding the first calliper the pistons/pots refused to pass through the new seals, at first glance the old & new seals looked identical size wise - both to suit 38mm pistons, however without a set of digital verniers to check it was impossible to tell if there was a difference in seal profile size. The following corresponding OEM number is quoted by Motobins for the Ariete overhaul kits, however after researching that BMW number it appears it is ONLY for various R series:  

34 21 1 237 234  

So, after scratching my head (and feeling a tad cranky) 3 more sets of overhaul kits were ordered, this time genuine Brembo kits with the following corresponding OEM number:   

34 11 2 310 493   

Which DOES match the BMW recommendation for the early K’s.....and fit perfectly. My guess is (without measuring with callipers) is that the K100 calliper seal relief is marginally shallower than an R calliper....or is it an Ariete thing? All I know is it is appears to be impossible to use the Ariete kit seals. 

You live & learn, to check & check again.  

Much better....



New Brembo seal on left, Ariete branded new seal on right....

That's the same problem I ran into but I never got to the end of it....now I know. You did it by the book as you saw it, just like I did but the book was wrong.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:That's the same problem I ran into but I never got to the end of it....now I know. You did it by the book as you saw it, just like I did but the book was wrong.

Very annoying indeed, serves me right for not checking the OEM numbers I guess. 

BTW Motobins have refunded the kits, can’t fault their service in that regard.

The rebuild progresses, After all external fuel & vacuum hoses/plugs were replaced, the original injectors had a birthday by being cleaned & tested, all 4 were pretty much in spec surprisingly & flowed pretty much the same, albeit still being full of crap. 

On first startup after the external work she still wasn’t too happy until warm and took several hits of the starter, and throttle could not be touched. I was putting off changing the in-tank filter & piping until the tank was painted, but gave myself a slap and pulled the filter....she was shagged, you could barely blow through either way and had a manufacture date of 22/04/03... not to mention the rubber lines perished and swollen. Funnily enough, after the in tank work she started up first hit of the button dead cold. Not enough pressure for a cold start? 


The build’s now at the far end, with the brakes to finish off, tyres, battery & fresh paint. 

And yes Martin, you’re tuning skills may have to be booked in in the near future 

Regards

Dan

No problems Dan anytime. Are you going to the swap meet?
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:No problems Dan anytime. Are you going to the swap meet?
Regards Martin.

I hope so - i’ve pencilled it in, barring anything else coming up I’m keen

Dan

Before pics....





And after




Some locally purchased new FAG 6005 wheelbearings were also popped, an absolute wallet-burner at $14 AUD:lol:

Shiny new brake lines to be fitted next. 

Regards

Dan

When you get to the seat Mick67 is really good with upholstery he just redid one of my spares. He did a really professional job.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:When you get to the seat Mick67 is really good with upholstery he just redid one of my spares. He did a really professional job.
Regards Martin.

Ok thanks Martin - I think the seat (early pattern with the hand holds) is actually in reasonable nick, but I'll def keep that in mind if it turns out not so. 

Your spare seat turned out great, very impressed. Don't know about the thought of you three playing around with vinyl though - sounds suss  

Regards

Dan

It is Mardi Gras night in Sydney
Maybe there was a Brisbane float with space

Mmmm there is enough scrap vinyl to add fringes to the seat and my jacket. It might be possible to slip the Brick in amongst the Hardly Ableto riders.  
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Mmmm there is enough scrap vinyl to add fringes to the seat and my jacket. I might be possible to slip the Brick in amongst the Hardly Ableto riders.  
Regards Martin.

Your exhaust isn't loud safe enough to blend in successfully.

I could tear the sleeves off one of my shirts and I could then add a couple of lick and stick tattoos. The only problem with them is they're off my granddaughter and they're of llamas.
Regards Martin.

WOT NO UNICORNS!!!!! (sigh) I dunno. Young people today...

Still plodding along with the renovation, a before & after shot of her backside - 






The rear shock was overhauled by RAD on Brisbane’s southside (thanks for the head’s up Mick & Co), new Avon hoops front & rear, new rear brake reservoir, master cyl overhauled, pretty braided lines front & rear, etc etc

Pretty much now on the home straight - a battery to be purchased, the front master cylinder to be re-kitted (I KNEW it would start bloody weeping the minute the front brakes were bled....) then it’s time to start thinking about paint I guess. 

Regards

Dan

Dan there is a guy in Brendale that sleeves front master cylinders with stainless steel and makes a new piston to suit. It used to be $200.00 Au and a replacement cup kit was $10.00.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Dan there is a guy in Brendale that sleeves front master cylinders with stainless steel and makes a new piston to suit. It used to be $200.00 Au and a replacement cup kit was $10.00.
Regards Martin.

Thanks Martin - I’ve got a kit for this one & the bore looks OK, but will keep in mind for future reference. Def worth thinking about. 

Regards

Dan

Greetings all

Lotsa bits back on the K this week after receiving my freshly painted bodywork on Saturday, just the radiator surround mountings & grill to sort out now.



I did have the pleasure of a quick "trial lap" around the block, she appeared to get along quite ok.   The fuel tank non- return valve is a noisy little devil when it chimes in though...why didn't i pull the guts of it out when I had the tank apart 

Hopefully the next post may just be a "completed!" post.

Regards

Dan

Looking good Dan looking forward to the time when I can view in the flesh.
Regards Martin.

Love that you've kept it 'stock'...Gee they are good crisp clean lined looking machine..not at all dated....Love em undressed like that!!

Top job - many many k's of fun when we are allowed out again.

Great work Dan. I reckon you must have done a crash course in polishing with Charlie. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Tom

Mick do you realise you can no longer win the oldest K bike award if Dan comes along.  Dan keep an eye on Mick he might resort to sabotage in order to keep his crown.  
Regards Martin.

Thanks for the kind comments Gents, looking forward to the first show n tell at the K Klutch. 

I’ll swap VIN plates with Mick so as not to de-thrown him, my relic will be then “updated” by a few months/years too... 

In saying that, Brisbane Ian’s Nekkid (basic) K100 is pretty bloody early, 08/83....couldn’t be too many K’s over here earlier than that 

Regards

Dan

nice result Dan

lets hope the radiator shield comes together soon

Greetings all

Well, the project has come full circle pretty much, the K now has rego & done a few test KM, still a few niggles to sort out but overall happy with her so far. 

I will post up a few images in the K pics topic forum. 

Looking forward to a SEQ K Krew Kruize soon! 

Looking really good Dan, looking forward to a meet up.  
Regards Martin.

Bonzer!

Oooooh Nice result!  

Very neat! 

Is a project ever really finished? Still tinkering at this end....apologies for probably boring you all 


The low RS bars position was starting to niggle me, with Martin’s help & some locally sourced upper K clamps the bars have been raised a little - 




I’ve also managed to source a VERY cheap OEM toolkit within Oz which required a decent clean up, I think it scrubbed up OK, luckily it was 95% complete with the shock & spark plug tools - 





Oh, and refitted the First Aid kit from 1983 that was found in the filthy rear tail upon stripdown....I think I need help 



And a recent winter’s evening urban “arty” pic too, why not... 



Regards

Dan

Looking good Dan, I've got my original very much out of date first aid kit stashed in a cupboard. Now that you have your very own tool kit and first aid kit, does that mean that you can venture out overnight.  
Regards Martin.

Very nice job

Just a detail;
The wiring to the headlight and cluster is routed wrong, it goes under the bottom yoke in the bottom of the mask.

MartinW wrote:Looking good Dan, I've got my original very much out of date first aid kit stashed in a cupboard. Now that you have your very own tool kit and first aid kit, does that mean that you can venture out overnight.  
Regards Martin.

Touché mein herr.... 

Regards

Dan

Arlina wrote:Very nice job

Just a detail;
The wiring to the headlight and cluster is routed wrong, it goes under the bottom yoke in the bottom of the mask.

Ah, good spotting....   I did try to reroute the headlight harness as per the Basic K100 spec, but it seemed like the RS harness was shorter & it was too stretched...may have been me of course, perhaps if I had cut every ziptie in the harness I may have had a bit more room...oh well, next time...

Regards

Dan

Finally got around to fitting the RT/LT bars & pad I sourced from kmodelbeamerbits. As well as the bars the old girl got all 3 cables replaced (which I should've really done a while back) and a longer front master cylinder line down to the steering stem. 

Early days but liking the comfier ergos so far. 




 
 Regards

Dan

Get your motor runnin, head out on the highway try, to void dementia. Tassels and fingerless gloves are in your future.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Get your motor runnin, head out on the highway try, to void dementia. Tassels and fingerless gloves are in your future.
Regards Martin.

.....and saddlebags too?

Looks Great Dan

Nice job

Man, that turned out nice! Would like to know your process for cleaning and polishing the aluminum. The paint job looks amazing as well. Would like to have my RS redone but I'm afraid the cost would be more than the bike is probably worth even though it's in great shape.

A local body shop wanted $600 just to do my black belly pan I got from Flat Racer. Jeez!

well done Dan

RS Rider GB777 had really good results using a colour matched can of 2 pack paint. It looked professionally done.
Regards Martin.

Hi All, thanks for the kind comments.

RS Rider the aluminium cleaning is via other's members tips on this forum - stainless steel wool, water & sunlight soap, followed by a wipe over with Inox from time to time. Seems to have kept clean so far. 

Agree with MartinW, GB777's spray job looked pretty good to me

Regards

Dan

MartinW wrote:RS Rider GB777 had really good results using a colour matched can of 2 pack paint. It looked professionally done.
Regards Martin.

 Martin,

        Would you happen to know what brand he used? I’m thinking about getting RS aerosol from the UK (they do ship to Canada) and then trying that on some of the smaller pieces, such as rad shroud or front fender. The only thing is that I would want the 2K clear which is nasty smelling stuff. I have a garage but it is attached to my townhouse. I don’t know how well spraying that stuff in my garage would go over with my neighbours.

Ideally I would like to find someone that has a set-up at home and would do the work for cash and I would supply the products.

Tom

RS I'd just PM Gary (GB777) and he'll give you all the information, you'll need. I do know he used a mask and a disposable suit. 
Regards Martin

In the past, I have done the prep and base coat on my parts and then taken them to a professional collision shop for the clear coat.  If you ask around, you should be able to find a shop that will shoot the clear for a reasonable price. 

The big part of any paint job is the time that goes into the prep, the actual work isn't rocket surgery if you take your time and don't cut corners.  By doing the prep you can save as much as 80% of the cost of the paint job.

The only important part is to shoot your base coat within a day or so of when the shop can do the clear.  This is to get the best bond between the coatings.  You can do everything up to the primer and then have the shop let you know when they can shoot the clear.  Then do your base coat and get the parts to the shop for the clear. 

I had a local shop clear all the painted parts for a K1100RS for $150 and a dozen donuts for the shop crew.  The finish was better than I could have done with my Harbor Freight gun and didn't require any more than an hour or so of buffing to look fantastic.  It's amazing how well a 40cfm compressor and a $300 gun in the hands of someone who shoots 5 days a week can apply paint.