Hi, i am about to connect a BEP 3.0 to my K100, and was wondering from start how to connect this to a new speedo. I know the original wires goes to the box, but then- is it only wires from the new speedo that goes in to thenother outputs? Or do i need to connect battery , negative and so on? Do anyone have pictures of installing this as i am not good in electric.

Hello!

Maybe this helps:
https://maru-labs.com/maru-labs-2/

Which aftermarket gauge have you chosen? It matters.

I have not received it yet, but i am going to try a cheap china ebay one , it fits good to my space in the front.

Which unit is the most easy and nice to install?

Listed here:

Maybe this helps:
https://maru-labs.com/maru-labs-2/

Should work OK. You need to keep in mind that the tachometer input on the gauge needs a R-C circuit to make it work. See this thread: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11996

Ok, i have now connecred this china speedo through the BEP. Genius made box. Everything is working but fuel indicator so far,
Dont know how to connect speed sensor since this speedo had 3 wires and a loose magnet sensor. So that doesnt work either, any ideas about this?

This gauge is assuming that the installer is using an active Hall sensor based speed sensor.  The installer is usually required to install the sensor on the front forks and then install a magnet on the wheel, usually one of the brake rotor bolts is replaced with a magnetic bolt. In that case, the gauge manufacturer has provided three wires for connection to the aftermarket sensor.  The three wires are +12V power to the aftermarket sensor, ground for the aftermarket sensor and signal from the aftermarket sensor.  Based on the first photo, the functions are:

Tynn Rødt:  +12V positive
Tynn Brun:  Sensor output
Tynn Grønn: Ground Negative

However, you can discard the sensor that came with the gauge because the BEP is going to supply the signal. Your BEP only needs you to connect the signal wire (Tynn Brun) and you can ignore the other two wires.  You'll connect that signal wire to the BEP output SPD.

As for the fuel sender, you'll need to reverse the resistor plate because the BMW sender is opposite to Japanese senders.  See Messing with the In-tank Fuel Sender.

BTW, does the RPM indicator work straight connected to the BEP???  Inquiring minds want to know.

vigdel78 wrote:Hi, i am about to connect a BEP 3.0 to my K100 . . .

Hi vigdel78.

Please click your cursor on the Profile tab in the header of this page then click on the Signature tab that will appear. After that, enter the year of manufacture and the model of your moto then save it. The year and model of your moto will appear below each of your posts, helping readers understand what you are riding without their having to backtrack to find the information. Parts might vary from year to year.

robmack wrote:This gauge is assuming that the installer is using an active Hall sensor based speed sensor.  The installer is usually required to install the sensor on the front forks and then install a magnet on the wheel, usually one of the brake rotor bolts is replaced with a magnetic bolt.  In that case, the gauge manufacturer has provided three wires for connection to the aftermarket sensor.  The three wires are +12V power to the aftermarket sensor, ground for the aftermarket sensor and signal from the aftermarket sensor.  Based on the first photo, the functions are:

Tynn Rødt:  +12V positive
Tynn Brun:  Sensor output
Tynn Grønn: Ground Negative

However, you can discard the sensor that came with the gauge because the BEP is going to supply the signal.  Your BEP only needs you to connect the signal wire (Tynn Brun) and you can ignore the other two wires.  You'll connect that signal wire to the BEP output SPD.

As for the fuel sender, you'll need to reverse the resistor plate because the BMW sender is opposite to Japanese senders.  See Messing with the In-tank Fuel Sender.

BTW, does the RPM indicator work straight connected to the BEP???  Inquiring minds want to know.

Thank you very much for detailed info regarding my issues.
Regards to rpm, it worked , but was a bit slow in function- need to try it more, just had a quick start yesterday in 2-3 minutes with some minor rpm raises. Will post a picture / film when tested.

Laitch wrote:

vigdel78 wrote:Hi, i am about to connect a BEP 3.0 to my K100 . . .

Hi vigdel78.

Please click your cursor on the Profile tab in the header of this page then click on the Signature tab that will appear. After that, enter the year of manufacture and the model of your moto then save it. The year and model of your moto will appear below each of your posts, helping readers understand what you are riding without their having to backtrack to find the information. Parts might vary from year to year.

Done

Now i have tried it for a short test drive today. Works fine, but speedometer is showing 200km/hr when i am driving 60km/hr .. so some mistake here, should be possible to enter the setup in the instrument, but have no instructions on what is what. Any ideas?

You have to go into the programming mode on the speedometer and set the number of pulses per wheel revolution and the circumference of your back wheel. The number of pulses per revolution should be "6". The wheel diameter you can measure and program in the gauge initially. Then play with that value to fine tune the accuracy of the speedometer. Use a speedometer app on your smart phone as a baseline to compare the displayed speed against the actual speed.

Your gauge should have come with programming instructions. See if my instructions help you or not: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IgZF3Qgx_Aa1mvcWAAjfVeTaBCb5WNkC

Very nice writeup, i actually have installed the futuristic one. I found out that holding set button, would get me in some kind of adjustment- but does not show stages, only a 3 digit number 017 and then a 2 digit number 12, i was thinking first 3 was circumference, but i miss 1 digit for that. Any more ideas, since i cant find any stage 1,2,3,4,5

Sorry that my instructions didn't help you. I was taking a guess as to the functionality being the same between those gauges.

This Ebay seller offers the gauge for sale and also documents its functionality as such:

Installation:
Indicator light:
The left turn of the turn signal is green, the right light is green, the high beam is blue, and the neutral light is green.
Button:
The SET button on the left and the SEL button on the right.
- Short press SET button to switch display total mileage, subtotal mileage, backlight setting (B-L)
- Changan SET button, the speed of the car flashes. Short press the SEL button, but change the display kilometers and miles.
- Short press the SET button and the hour flashes. Short press the SEL button to set the hour value.
- Short press the SET button, the minute flashes, and the SEL button can be pressed to set the minute.
- The system clock is 12 hours.
- In the subtotal mileage interface, long press the SET button to clear the subtotal mileage.
- In the backlight setting interface, press the SEL button momentarily to adjust the backlight color.
- Press and hold the SET, SEL button at the same time to display the gear circumference.
- Short press the SET button to switch the adjustment bit, short press the SEL button to adjust the parameter.
- In the setting interface, if there is no button press for 3 seconds, the setting interface will be exited and the setting parameters will be saved.

Pretty lame stuff if you ask me.  If the gauge is not working for you, then I'd suggest contacting the seller from whom you bought the gauge or the manufacturer directly.

Thanks again, i have already contacted the seller, but i dont think his english is that good. The answer he gave certainly gave me that impression..
Just have to try different settings, and test drive between each adjustment.

Hi
I have read through this thread as I am also trying to connect up an Acewell to a BEP 3.0. My Acewell is the 2853S.
I really do have zero electrical knowledge so please excuse my ignorance! I have wired mine up as per the posts in this thread. I am left with a combined blue and black wire, a double yellow wire and a black wire from the Acewell and I don't know what to do with them. I appreciate you have pretty much described what to do with these but I don't understand it!
Is there any chance someone could explain in an extremely dumbed-down manner what I do with these last wires please?

My k100 cafe build was working fine before the winter months.
I had an issue or 2 with the trickle charger and now the bike will not start.

Question
I  read better than 12volts at the BAT location but not at the SWP location(only 2Vs)
When the switch is on, should that also be the same as the BAT or is it reduced?
Thanks
Peter

SWP (switched power) should be the same as BAT (unswitched power).   It should not be as low as 2V.