Still looking for seat lock and pin that attaches to seat

Also rear brake lense - red cover,

Also switch from crash pad (same as the fan on and off on K1100 dash

All parts for K100 1984

Thanks

Guy

i got my pin and mount for the seat  from motorworks  guy , not too dear at all

I gave away the new seat lock, but I might have a spare rear light down in the garage if you get stuck, but be aware that the postage from France will cost a fortune! 
I might have a switch too but as far as I know there was never a fan on/off switch because that fan was designed by BMW to work automatically, it will be either a heated grips, or a hazard light switch.

Hi Guy, like Charlie I got a second hand seat lock  from Motorworks when I did my K75 project. For second hand parts its best to ring them (on Skype) to see what they have - they were very helpful for me. I got the piece that mounts on the seat (pin/prong) from one of the forum guys up here.

On the seat pin piece that I got the pin was loose in the rubber so I dug out all the rubber and taped the pin in place with masking tape then filled it with Permatex black silicon - left it for a week then fitted it up. Has now been in service for 3 years and 45,000km.

I modified the seat lock to work with the bike ignition key.

Cheers

BobT wrote:I gave away the new seat lock, but I might have a spare rear light down in the garage if you get stuck, but be aware that the postage from France will cost a fortune! 
I might have a switch too but as far as I know there was never a fan on/off switch because that fan was designed by BMW to work automatically, it will be either a heated grips, or a hazard light switch.

indeed bob . there never was
but for some of us out here  in the heat of aussie , and of corse many other places , an override  to the temperature relay has sorted many " in traffic " heating incidents

its not a direct switch to fan but a low resistance  parallel circuit that parallels from the temperature sensor  to drive the temperature relay on to drive the fan .
for me its a purposeful feature to exercise the fan , before heading off into the unknown , to be assured that the system is working properly , without having to wait for near boiling point activation from the automatic system .

cheers

charlie99 wrote:

BobT wrote:I gave away the new seat lock, but I might have a spare rear light down in the garage if you get stuck, but be aware that the postage from France will cost a fortune! 
I might have a switch too but as far as I know there was never a fan on/off switch because that fan was designed by BMW to work automatically, it will be either a heated grips, or a hazard light switch.

indeed bob . there never was
but for some of us out here  in the heat of aussie , and of corse many other places , an override  to the temperature relay has sorted many " in traffic " heating incidents

its not a direct switch to fan but a low resistance  parallel circuit that parallels from the temperature sensor  to drive the temperature relay on to drive the fan .
for me its a purposeful feature to exercise the fan , before heading off into the unknown , to be assured that the system is working properly , without having to wait for near boiling point activation from the automatic system .

cheers

Here in the heat of the south of France, days and days of low 40c at times, I have never had a heat incident and the K has performed exactly as BMW designed it to.
Now my Ducati is a different thing. The engine is fine in the hot town traffic, but the heat that emanates from the rear header makes the insides of my legs cook. The is no switch against that.

The whole fan issue is one in cooler climates. Hot climate its run on virtually every outing, even slow moving traffic in 35c so it gets regular use and plenty of it. Been there.

But back here in more temperate climates a K can go for weeks without the fan running, even going to town. I am using a different base in town now that involves a different route and the fan comes on at the exact same location, whether on the K100RT or the K1100LT. Previous location it never came on. Other than that the fan sees very little use.......which causes them to seize.

So for here a switch is definitely good. My K100LT had the manual over ride. It worked. My K10RT didn't have the over ride......result fan seized through lack of use. Replaced it when I did the clutch/rear main seal. The K1100LT will get a manual override too.

The Ducati does have a switch for the over heating rear header. A Kill switch. But it should never be used.

Thanks for replies Gentlemen.

Have taken the seat parts off the RT for now. But will need to locate the parts soon (will give motowerks a call).

(K100RS naked) Bike passed rego today and went for its first real outing (with me).

Was pleased with most things - bike revved out well and got some straighter road to check higher speeds. The usual vibrations around 4000rpm (will check throttle body balance soon) ... felt strong up to 6500.

Issues: on way home revs at idle started climbing to 1500rpm.

Will check for any snagging of throttle cable and action, use the propane around the inlet rubbers for leaks in case mixture is leaning out from air leak once the engine gets hot (one of the reasons fan belts used to squeal once rubber had expanded with heat).

Might be related but I am getting some backfiring through the (staintune) exhaust on heavy de-acceleration ... but it does sound sorta good.

At one stage I thought I could smell fuel - and starting wondering if regulator might not be working and over pressuring the fuel pressure in the fuel rail??

Any other suggestions?

Side covers came loose at around 130km/h - rubbers are old and tatty! Down the front of the jacket with them.

Good to have a bike on the road. Mind you the RT motor is on the bench gutted waiting for my attentions.

Guy

GF Wollongong wrote:
Side covers came loose at around 130km/h - rubbers are old and tatty! Down the front of the jacket with them.

Good to have a bike on the road. Mind you the RT motor is on the bench gutted waiting for my attentions.

Guy

Must be a misprint. Speed limits around there top out at 100km/h. 

Good to hear the K is on the road. I must do the same to a certain 1100. 

Bill

Reasons for backfiring, not fully closing throttle on overrun, incorrect setting of TPS, inlet air leaks, exhaust leaks, air/fuel mixture incorrect, dirty fuel injectors.
Regards Martin.

Thanks Martin...

Lots of things there to drag me away from the family and keep me occupied.
Some days I question the damage this forum must be doing to families and innocent children.

Injectors have been serviced, crankcase ventilation tube new, idle set to 950rpm, exhaust recently tightened, TPS not touched, but throttle definately not closed on overrun, inlet leaks to be checked.

Bill, not surprisingly, not it's not the K100 you are thinking of. Since I started pulling the green RT apart, another 1.5 K100s came into my life... one parted up and the other is the one that just go rego'd. You know what it's like - they follow you home like strays. And (as Bullwinkle said) there's always room for one more - something I have increasing difficulty justifying to myself. The shed is past saturation point and I might have to recruit my father in law (an ex-motorcycle nutter and owner of very large garage - home to a LE Velocette I sold him in '98) who was party to the subterfuge behind the latest bike (along with my wife's brother). There might be some prolonged silent treatment coming my way if she found out. You are all swore to secrecy.

Have a good day, it's raining here and unfortunately I've got essays to mark...maybe around 70 by 4.30pm. Joy oh joy

Guy

To check if the mixture is correct. Set your idle to 1000rpm ( test doesn't work at lower Rpm), press the green starter button. If the mixture is correct the idle speed should either stay the same or rise just slightly. If the Rpm's drop or rise significantly the mixture is incorrect and needs to be adjusted. The adjustment screw is under a rubber plug situated on the top right hand corner of the airbox and is adjusted by inserting a 5mm allen key. There are a couple of ways of adjusting A/ Using a exhaust gas analyzer (I bought a Gunson about 15 years ago) B/ Using the lean drop method , type in lean drop method in search it should come up. With either of these methods patience is required and adjustments should be in small increments. After making any adjustment you need to wait for the system to adjust to the correction. An incorrectly adjusted mixture can contribute to backfiring.
Regards Martin.

Thanks for that Martin

I seem to remember reading that one once. But thanks and will give it a go tomorrow (after and before a ride).

Cheers

Guy