robmack wrote:Even though the other M/Cs might look worse on the exterior, they may be better operationally that the one with which you are currently struggling.  Maybe it would be prudent to swap over to one of the knattier ones to see if it performs better, rather than wasting more time on this one.

Easier said then done. It would be a 9 hr return trip to go and get one. At least one of them had the piston stuck in the bore, and most of them were showing nasty signs of corrosion - but your most likely right, one of them would have worked fine! Damn Murphy at work again......

Might have to hit up Rosskko, my local spare parts man

In hind sight Im spewing I bought the bloody rebuild kit. Not a great deal cheaper then an entire new m/c.

Rossskkkooo had trouble with a rear master cylinder too. I ended up with it just to see what was going on.

I'll have another look at it tonight. Do you want me to clean it up and send it to you?

Sorry to read you are having trouble Floyd , I too had problems with my rear m/c leaking fluid , my mech gave me prices for the kit vs a new one , very close , went with the new one

JR

floyd wrote:

RicK G wrote:The only reason I can come up with is that the tiny hole that lets the fluid through to the cylinder is blocked.
We have seen this here a couple of times and the latest was RossKo with a front M/C
There are 2 holes that go from the feeder hose into the M/C, one which is closest to the open end is about 2mm in size and the other about 1mm or less and the small one is very easily clogged when left sitting.
Big problem here is that while that non-removeable thing is in the top of the M/C where the hose attaches it is next to impossible to fix it.
You can see the larger hole by looking up the bore but the smaller hole which is about 9mm further in is almost invisible at best and totally invisible when it is clogged.
Try using a Primus prick (no that isn't the CEO of Primus internet) but a thin tin thing about the size of an ice-block stick with a tiny piece of high tensile wire attached at right angles which can get into the hole and clean it out.
A piece of 0.6 MIG welding wire and very thin long nosed pliers might do it.
If that hole is blocked then all you do is pump the fluid in and then suck it out of the caliper.
Give it a go you never know.

Maybe an ultrasonic clean?

Sure would be worth a try.
One thing that could do is to put your little finger over the bigger hole if it fits down the bore and then blow some compressed air in and it may dislodge something.
It is hard to get any pressure to it any other way. My brain is active today and one thing I just thought of.
You can get plugs that are used in brick walls and plaster board to attach a hook or the like. you may be able to get one to expand enough to block the hole and it would not damage the bore or something of soft rubber with a washer both sides and tighten it up with an allen key so it expands then the full pressure can be applied.

If you can get a new bung inlet thingy for it then just cut the old one out and the hole is right there. The things are like a barbed plug and don't come out unless you destroy them.

Update...

The offer of the master cylinder will have to be withdrawn, as Rooooossskkkkoooo informed me that it's not in working condition. Apparently there is a piece of  pin or needle broken off in the wee small hole.

Sorry floyd.

Yeah I remember I could just about see RossKo foaming when that happened 

blaKey wrote:Update...

The offer of the master cylinder will have to be withdrawn, as Rooooossskkkkoooo informed me that it's not in working condition. Apparently there is a piece of  pin or needle broken off in the wee small hole.

Sorry floyd.

No worries blaKey. Thanks for the kind offer non the less...

Will put mine through an ultrasonic clean and report back. Failing that, my spider senses tell me a trip to the farm may be in order....

The Mrs's helmet just turned up in the post....

she is such a dag in denial.....

a super urban, worldly Barcelonian....

and she demanded we have matching helmets....

'Cab Yellow' Nolans....

So now, not only do we have His & Hers matching Akubras, we also have His & Hers bright yellow helmets...

Well at least we three (Bob the Bike, Me and Mrs Me) can be Rastas in full harmonic colour. 

Come to think of it....8 years ago we both had matching dreadlocks. History just keeps repeating.

Back end off before work this morning....

The output shaft seal is kaput.

I reckon 3/4 of the gear box oil was in the swing arm. The other quarter is around the inner west.

Hoping to be able to get the seal out without removing and dismantling the GB.

How far in does the seal go?

In the Haynes it says something like "until it rests on the locating shoulder" which to me sounds like "all the way"

Ive just done that....and started the engine....and the seal spins with the shaft......

I applied a thin coat of grease, as per manual.....

hmmmmmm

oooh gawd.....a few steps forward and a bloody giant leap back....!!!!!

Can you all cry a collective "PHHAAAAAARK!!" for my sake. cheers...


  




EDIT:  Cracked frame. top rear shock mount. pain in the proverbial. How to proceed?

Cracked frame?

floyd wrote:How far in does the seal go?

In the Haynes it says something like "until it rests on the locating shoulder" which to me sounds like "all the way"

Ive just done that....and started the engine....and the seal spins with the shaft......

I applied a thin coat of grease, as per manual.....

hmmmmmm

Was the seal a snug fit?  It sounds like its a little too small.

Al

AL-58 wrote:

floyd wrote:How far in does the seal go?

In the Haynes it says something like "until it rests on the locating shoulder" which to me sounds like "all the way"

Ive just done that....and started the engine....and the seal spins with the shaft......

I applied a thin coat of grease, as per manual.....

hmmmmmm

Was the seal a snug fit?  It sounds like its a little too small.

Al

Yeah drove it in, nice and snug. seemed to fit well. Although it did seem tighter when the seal was flush with the outer case, but then looser when driven in deeper.....

I figured the grease (I used a moly lube actually) was not a good idea so after I posted I went out and got some Gibbs wonder juice and sprayed it around the shaft and seal as it turned, and after all of 3 seconds the seal stopped turning. Cleaned it all up with paper towel and a few more squirts and it looks good....we'll see I guess...just glad I could replace it externally....

Then on reassembly I discovered the cracked top rear shock mount!!!! grrrrrr        


Can a crack like that be welded up with the frame in situ?

It looks like there is paint in the crack ?
i would say that if you ca. Get someone to TIG weld it then there should not be any problems ,just take care to remove anything flameable near the weld.
and strip the paint a few cm around the crack ,as the paint will catch fire .
Also take the battery off.

k-rider

k-rider wrote:It looks like there is paint in the crack ?
i would say that if you ca. Get someone to TIG weld it then there should not be any problems ,just take care to remove anything flameable near the weld.
and strip the paint a few cm around the crack ,as the paint will catch fire .
Also take the battery off.

k-rider

Frame was powder coated - but I take it you mean that the crack may have been pre existing? Good chance of it, I didnt check...doh

Wonder if its 'safe' to ride it a few kms to a welder.....?

Crack at the top of the shockie, welcome to the world of K bikes you have just discovered one of the dirty little tricks that they throw at you.
I recall some powder coating so you will need to be careful of fumes they contain cyanide gases.
Tig is the way after a good clean and some reinforcing. You are lucky I have discovered the K75 has been patched very badly and I need to fix the fix on both sides. I am actually considering grafting the K100 rear to the frame of the K75.

I wouldnt be too concerned about riding a few km. Since it is only the frame support for the back seat , so take it slow and it will hold up 

k-rider

$40 and about 30mins of my time and the crack is welded up. Far easier then I was anticipating at first. Thanks for the wise words ya'll.






He opened the crack up a bit with the grinder then filled it in with weld.

That number plate would confuse the speed cameras.

Al

I hope you didnt get any ironflake in the gold paint job  

good thing it was a speedy job though  

k-rider

AL-58 wrote:That number plate would confuse the speed cameras.

Al

Grand Theft Auto special edition.

The old man always mused about making a licence plate cover from welding goggle glass....


Thanks K-Rider. I sprayed the weld red again last night, will upload a picy soon. Im amazed how quick and cheap it was really. I freaked out when I discovered the crack. Thought Id have to take the bloody frame off! 44

I take it many of you readers of my rambles have had a similar problem? Between the top shock mount, the bottom shock bolt, and the handle bar risers - there are a few rather 'exciting' shall we say, potential points of failure.....

floyd wrote:

AL-58 wrote:That number plate would confuse the speed cameras.

Al

Grand Theft Auto special edition.

The old man always mused about making a licence plate cover from welding goggle glass....


Thanks K-Rider. I sprayed the weld red again last night, will upload a picy soon. Im amazed how quick and cheap it was really. I freaked out when I discovered the crack. Thought Id have to take the bloody frame off! 44

I take it many of you readers of my rambles have had a similar problem? Between the top shock mount, the bottom shock bolt, and the handle bar risers - there are a few rather 'exciting' shall we say, potential points of failure.....

I've had all three!  Thankfully on different bikes.

Our frame repair (K75s) involved rear end disassembly on the shores of Lake Eucumbene, the use of a stick welder borrowed from work(500kms away) by a colleague I'd gone to visit.  One side of the frame (brocken through on both sides)was reinforced with a piece of rabbit trap.

Its good to see you got it sorted quickly.
Al

I've been there with that fix. I didn't notice the modification the PO did on my K75 frame until I went to install my RAM shock.  I found this:

I found a local welder who made up a new pair of plates and welded them on for $40.  Now I have the proper holes to mount my RAM.  The welding was done in-situ, like yours.

its to damn wet for me to take a photo of my mud caked Super K

Knocked off work early yesterday, strapped my first bundle of crap to the pillion and headed off into the sunset...

Geez I move my K! I does everything so well and easily. beautiful ride...


But wow am I glad I have the Hiedenau tyres on today.....did around 50kms last night, in the dark, on a freshly graded dirt road (no new material added, just graded over the top of the sham of a preexisting road).....the top 3 inches of road was just slopsville. total mudfest.

front and rear sliding everywhere. still cant believe i didnt drop it once. had to stand on the pegs the entire time and the back wheel barely had traction even just cruising along.....was fun but freaky. middle of nowhere at night in the rain.....mmmmm

made me remember this newspaper article about my old man...


Anyways, was hoping to ride out thrrough Sofala to Bathurst and go around the Mt a few times, then go and see some pals in Orange. but its pissing down and Im a softy. 

Bike looks cool caked in mud though.

So the bike is fit for purpose then.  I've woken to a lovely misty/drizzly mountains morning myself.

Have I got a ride for you if you're interested. End of August is the TTT Rally in that large green area behind Warragamba, north of Goulburn, south of Oberon-ish   Thrashers Terrifying Trek, 50 odd km of fire trails to camp with around 80 like-minded fools.  And you've got to carry everything in.  I've had both rain and snow going in and both make it hell basically  


Al

AL-58 wrote:So the bike is fit for purpose then.  I've woken to a lovely misty/drizzly mountains morning myself.

Have I got a ride for you if you're interested. End of August is the TTT Rally in that large green area behind Warragamba, north of Goulburn, south of Oberon-ish   Thrashers Terrifying Trek, 50 odd km of fire trails to camp with around 80 like-minded fools.  And you've got to carry everything in.  I've had both rain and snow going in and both make it hell basically  


Al

Sounds like I need to gear up and get out in the muck for some practice! 

Ahh the pleasure of pain aye.

great to hear Floyd ...
enjoy mate !

Turned out to be a lovely day for a ride....didnt go for the planned route though, just a round trip to Mudgee (about 100kms of dirt return)

Plenty of crossings, this was the lowest. Had 23mm of rain last night. 

Even just took the bike up into one of the paddocks....power slides all round







GPI is acting up for the first time. displaying wrong gear and 0 alot of the time. Will grab another one when I rummage through the spares shed later on.

Floyd,
Could be worth trying this;-

https://www.k100-forum.com/t6936-gear-position-switch?highlight=gear+position+indicator

Paul.

Another small step to having a finished bike...

- All valve clearances are now within spec (didnt have the right shims to do it before.)

- New seal in timing cover is fitted correctly and is not leaking! yay

- Most likely its in my head, but it seemed to be the smoothest yet on my test ride yesterday. 


Had a minor off while being a dickhead in some mud last weekend....was doing a big ass power slide and it gripped and highsided me. Was poor technique.  

Broke right side indicators and cracked the front fairing    



Robmac - that shock mount is very agricultural indeed. Although your $40 fix it was a great deal. 



Paul - Thanks mate, will get to it later I reckon. I will need to get the swing arm off again soon to re-re-replace the outputshaft seal. Ive mucked it up twice, although this time around the leak is only a few drops here and there (rather then there being essentially no seal at all like earlier) so it can wait. Couldnt be arsed right now....




Saw a K1100 yesterday with what looked a factory rear case on it. Was big enough to fit a helmet in. Are they any good?

yay!

My bike is now German and not British. No more oil on the drive way. Got the GB output shaft seal in the way it should go and thus far its holding.

Bike is running wonderfully.


Only complaint at this stage is it seems to suffer from significant surging under hard acceleration when the tank is only about half full. The full obviously rushes to the back of the tank and starves the pump. 

Is this common or have I got something amiss inside the tank? I (lazily) have not installed a new fuel filter yet. Will dig around in there this arvo. 

Oh, and there is a veeeery minor leak in my radiator. Like a tiny pin prick. Not enough for a drip to ocur, but a veerrry slo and slight week from one specific point. Is there a liquid sealer type of thing I can add to seal it? Or should I just pop on another rad?

Might get one of these. Will give me digital radio, FM radio, can plug in a USB stick full of music and podcasts etc etc. 

Has a 'dash' mounted controller.

Plug in headphones and away ya go. 

And it plays ABBA




There is also this more simple unit, but it lacks the USB input function, which is pretty cool





The more I read and think about it, the more the first one seems like a bloody awesome idea (for me and my tastes). Having a usb port mounted in the dash that I can just plug a USB stick into, or listen to digital/FM radio and control it all from the dash seems bloody marvellous.

a great idea Floyd

the usb connectivity is just a real good idea ...and cheap too ....perhaps you have gathered the idea that im all good for functional but CHEEP on addons and cost of addons  

usb can give you an awesome functionality and taste of taste in music in nearly a flash !!

and if the usb drive gets wet ,broken  etc, wont cost the earth to replace .....old school saying- quizzical  " the new cheep floppy disk ?"  grin

good luck !

floyd wrote:yay!

My bike is now German and not British. No more oil on the drive way. Got the GB output shaft seal in the way it should go and thus far its holding.

Bike is running wonderfully.


Only complaint at this stage is it seems to suffer from significant surging under hard acceleration when the tank is only about half full. The full obviously rushes to the back of the tank and starves the pump. 

Is this common or have I got something amiss inside the tank? I (lazily) have not installed a new fuel filter yet. Will dig around in there this arvo. 

Oh, and there is a veeeery minor leak in my radiator. Like a tiny pin prick. Not enough for a drip to ocur, but a veerrry slo and slight week from one specific point. Is there a liquid sealer type of thing I can add to seal it? Or should I just pop on another rad?

perhaps lower the pump in the rubber mount ....it might seem that the pump sits in the right place on first attempt ...but have a look to see if it can sit lower in the rubber (and the entry area closer to the bottom ) there is a cutout for the pump retaining rubber and  in the outer of the housing that positions it In the mount to the right depth
I would imagine that some pumps ( not original ) may also have the locator ring ...but positioned differently in depth ?

mine suffers the same at levels lower than the last quarter ..( but I have a different pump and may have not got it as low as it could be )

EDITED SEVERAL TIMES

Ebay Link for above radio/USB unit.    <----- Not so suitable I have come to realise, as the dash mounted control is of course not water proof....


Ebay - Cheap Chinese versions (they all seem to do SD card, FM radio)    <---- Cant remote locate USB/SD cards to weather proof them. Also, navigation of large USB/SD drives might be a pain. No AM radio


Ebay - Generic mid-range Marine UBS/AM/FM player      <---- this one is looking interesting. Feature packed, completely sealed, high quality, allows remote location of USB stick for weather proofing, AM and FM radio, reasonable price. Only draw back is that it might not be able to navigate USB/SD drives well. You might not get the track/artist info displayed and may not be able to navigate into subfolders....


Jensen MS30 Marine MP3/AM FM Radio     <----For a tad more $ this may be the pick of the bunch thus far as it does it all plus it lets you navigate USB/SD drives easily. Only one here with backlit controls! Plus its got 4 channel output so it can be wired toe either 2 sets of headphones or headphones and speakers via a switch. Sounding pretty sweet.

Lovely ride today. had a marvelous time. first time for some of the roads for me.

Went from home - accross the Harbour Bridge - old Pacific Hwy - Had a pie/coffee/caramel slice @ Pie in the Sky - Peats Ridge Road - Wisemans Ferry Road - Dural - Home.

Took a few detours on side roads and dirt where ever possible.

Bike performed absolutely flawlessly. Tyres as well. Cant wait til rear master cylinder arrives from germany. 






I do intend on painting/fixing the side covers and fitting them too. One day. Next up is sorting the luggage. Going to eliminate the ducktail and weld a rack to the subframe ala r80gs. Also considering giving my LT nose section a whirl.

you will notice it sits (the rt fairing ) way higher than the rs fairing Floyd

good to hear your having fun on the beast ....congrats !

My life is growing ever more Komplete.....

1100 rear m/c arrived yesterday and for the first time in a long time the postie found it in his heart to actually deliver the package instead of slipping me a collection card.

Fitted and bled in about 20mins, riding with large grin after about 30mins. 

Lane splitting and cornering just got that much faster safer. 

Have not dug around in the tank yet re: the fuel pump placement(re: surging when fuel is lowish), but I strongly suspect Charlie is onto it in the post above. 


Hey Charlie, when you say the RT fairing is way higher - do you actually look through the screen when riding, or over it? 

What I would really like to get is one of those huge aftermarket screens from the USA that fit the RS fairing but make it of a similar size to the RT fairing. but they are about $350 or something and I have already spent enough money. Having said that, I dont plan on ever selling the beast, so I may as well have it exactly how I want it. 
Whats that saying about the bitterness of poor quality/bad choices lingers longer then the sweetness of a cheap price. (or something like that...) 

And as luck would have it, forecast to piss down this weekend. yay.

theres a mob down in Victoria Floyd, that does lots of windscreen plastics ...from the feedback in the forum here , they might be worth looking up

I seem to recall 220 or something like that ....but I am thinking that was for the extended rt type shield ...my memory on such things is not as good as it should be .

I meant that the rt lt fairing actually sits higher ....if you get an rs lowers and try to fit them up to an rt fairing ...there is some gap to the engine crankcases etc    plus the side is wider and thicker 11 inches for the rt  7 inches for the rs ...requiring higher bars in any case to clear the top section ...just some of the differences I note, is all

at just under 6 foot ..no I don't look through the screen ...but there are versions that some do .....I really don't like (personal opinion ) the tall screens   the curve of the rt looks great to me

New bling (practical bling)




Also....nearly had an off the other day.....came around a right hander fairly hard and the back end slid out about 700mm! luckily when it grabbed again its was very smooth and I just kept on cruising and didnt high side into incoming traffic....


got home and found this....




Closer inspection...





Removed and stripped caliper. Turns out I didnt install one of the 2 Orings between the caliper halves. But if my weed adled brain isnt to mistaken there was only 1 in the pack....Regardless, found another brand new one of a similar size (a bit bigger) and installed it. Might order the correct one, might not.

While the caliper was apart I gave the (new) pads etc a very good clean as they were completely mucked up with gearbox oil, brake fluid and road grime. Nice.

All back together, test ride with hard braking complete, no leaks and the best rear brake feel Ive have yet on the beast. Not to bad a result, and no crash (although a damn near miss). 

yay

 :flower:

yay !!!

A quick snap from a ride yesterday arvo...lovely day for a ride....no cops, little traffic, lovely skies etc....

good onya Floyd

whats you verdict about riding without the lower fairings ...I guess you need a good hot summers day to appreciate it  ...eh?

having said that ...I find that I get wet just about under the knees for a couple of inches ...but with the big rt fairing little else whilst travelling forward, except possibly the shoulders and neck at times

keep riding mate

Cheers Charlie!

Still very undecided on fairing options.

I do like the current setup but at speed it doesnt give me the wind noise protection I want around the helmet. My shins and shoulders get wet in the rain. 

Its going to be waaay to expensive to get a Aeroflow screen for the RS which is a shame coz it looks ideal. ($350 +$250 shipping!)

Trying to strike a balance between protection from the elements and having as minimal fairing bits as possible to get damaged in falls, which im counting on happening alot on my trip (offroad, slow speed) and has happened twice now.

Will get my RT fairing from QLD sometime in the future and try out its top section without the lowers. Or maybe ill borrow one off a local member and try it out. My only reluctance is that its an even chunkier/larger surface area available to break in a fall. But it does have the integrated indicators which are less likely to break, which is a big advantage as I have broken both my right hand indicators twice now (being a dick head in the dirt)

The other option floating around is a more enduro/GS style with a big single or twin headlight setup with a tallish generic screen. But thats more money, and I already have an RT fairing...

hmmmm

good fun tho! 

And the bike is running beautifully. Torque everywhere, responsive everywhere, turbine like smoothness and feel, total dependability (so far), very comfortable single and two up, more angle then I was expecting and alot more fun and capable off road then I was expecting too. Just need to get my big bore off road skills up to scratch.

Discovered I had a warped rear rotor of the floating kind. It the type with round holes drilled all over it. (oy the saga of the rear break!) but have swapped it out with another on hand. This type has slots rather then holes, leaned over on an angle around the disc. I dont think this is the early type prone to cracking. The nice floating one may be able to get that shave/grind thing done on it, dunno.

Next on the list for those that may be interested...

This doesnt included a miriad of small things Im doing constantly (you know how it is, the small things take the most effort and time) this is just some bigish things still to come:

- Get the Jensen MS30 marine stereo.
- Make an aluminum box/mount to act as dash panel. this will house stereo, ignition switch, hazard switch, USB ports (for charging)
- Make aluminium bash plate
- repair and paint side covers
- repair damage to paint work in assembly etc
- mount driving lights
- wire up all the accessory charging stuff ill need.
- fabricate/acquire a large rear rack that bolts to the subframe. 
- recondition panniers
- consider fuel tank expansion

now the fun bit

- rebuild/recondition a spare head. make that baby shine a breath better then new (maybe)
- install new head onto current engine with the new head gasket that came in my seals kit.

That will do for now....

perhaps we should work a little on for fairing protection bars ?...due to dropsies

shouldn't be to hard really ...just awkward I guess

the alternative of riding without a fairing is very different and not one I want to do again ...if I can help it ,,,the k can keep it going long after the wrists and neck need a break from the wind pressure constantly present ...especially  on a long ..medium paced ride  (90-120 )

cheers

Maybe you can put sliders where the RS mirrors used to be.  Reinforce the fibreglass in that region to dissipate  the impact over a greater area.

robmack wrote:Maybe you can put sliders where the RS mirrors used to be.  Reinforce the fibreglass in that region to dissipate  the impact over a greater area.

Exactly what Ive been thinking. Just some aluminium sheeting I guess.

hey floyd, et. al., just had to join because - well - of my rebuild - and to give thanks to all you gents for the wealth of information that you've all provided floyd - thanks all and I hope to reflect upon this pool of wisdom for my rebuild..

KUDOS!!