51 Re: Engine oil for K100 Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:24 am
Rick G
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But the oil filter is same as quite a few cars [BMW and other makes] and can be bought cheaper. But, when you buy the filter for the K it comes with the o ring seal for the filter cover.
bikerboy wrote:Can you explain why you think diesel oil should be better than petrol oil?
Last edited by klamityboy on Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
K75cster wrote:Kyle10 thanks, I was going to use diesel oil to ensure the gum in my engine was removed by the extra level of detergent in the diesel oil, and now this wiki site data shows it may not work as I had believed, having less detergent rather than more. A best practice always Klamityboy, is to do just that, more over long rides are also best practice, as the short ones tend to dirty up the oil with condensation etc. I still want to degum my engine though
What is 'ATF' ?Kyle10 wrote:K75cster wrote:Kyle10 thanks, I was going to use diesel oil to ensure the gum in my engine was removed by the extra level of detergent in the diesel oil, and now this wiki site data shows it may not work as I had believed, having less detergent rather than more. A best practice always Klamityboy, is to do just that, more over long rides are also best practice, as the short ones tend to dirty up the oil with condensation etc. I still want to degum my engine though
You're welcome. An excellent cleaner for your oil passageways and 'top end' is to add a quart of quality ATF (be a quart low before adding) and let your engine idle for 10-15 minutes. Don't ride, just let it idle and give it a mild rev every two/three minutes.
When completed, drain oil and change filter.
I work for an engine manufacturer; this is a safe and effective way to 'de-gum' your engine. Far, far better than the 'motor flush' stuff auto parts stores offer. Never, ever use that stuff as they sometimes are too solvent-heavy and can remove the hard-earned and beneficial protective layers in the piston/cylinder, camshaft journal, bearings that you want to keep intact.
bikerboy wrote:"add a quart of quality ATF (be a quart low before adding) and let your engine idle for 10-15 minutes."
You will never get BMW to tell you that you can use ATF (or even diesel oil) in the bike. The thing that BMW will tell you never to do is to start the bike up and let it idle!
The latest EU spec for Diesel oil is a C2 or C3 full synthetic that is a 5W30 viscosity. You want to use that in your bike?
bikerboy wrote:Kyle, You are correct in that you don't need BMWs blessing to do anything you want with your own bike, but when advising others it is a different matter. No one is saying use bike specific oil, so the reference to a car engine is nothing to do with matters. But, I would like to know which French car engine that revs to 9000 rpm they used in this German bike.
What is important is that I can look at the shelves of oil that are for sale and in Europe, where the majority of cars are diesel, they offer Petrol or Diesel oil in equal amounts. They are made by Esso, BP, Total, Shell and about 10 other manufacturers. So about 15 different manufactures of oil are telling me that there is petrol and diesel oil and they are not the same, I would never tell them that they are all wrong and I am going to use Diesel oil in my petrol engine or the other way around.
Last edited by klamityboy on Wed Feb 12, 2014 2:44 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : clarity)
bikerboy wrote:Interesting links, but they all point out the fact that a Peugeot 104 engine was used to test the prototype, but an in house engine was used in the bike. Living in the land of Peugeot I can assure you that there is not and never was a car fitted with an engine that has anything in common with the 2v K engine.
I will not continue with any challenges about how clever you think you are or how clever I may be, because status does not matter one jot to me. Rest assured that I have spent my lifetime doing some very technical things for many years and still spend much of my time helping others with things that they do not understand.
+1k75RT Keith wrote:Personally, I think using oil is a good idea. Engines don't seem to run all that well without it. How often you change it is really just a matter of choice and should be based more on how you use your vehicle and the mileage one accumulates over that set period of time.
Lolk75RT Keith wrote:Personally, I think using oil is a good idea. Engines don't seem to run all that well without it. How often you change it is really just a matter of choice and should be based more on how you use your vehicle and the mileage one accumulates over that set period of time.
But they had bugger all to with the Mini all that way back. The bore spacing is just a coincidence.92KK K100LT 193214 wrote:BMW did in fact go back to an old engine! But not a Peugeot!
The top end of the K engine 8v or 16v is used as a twin cam conversion on the Mini. You need to watch The Italian Job with Michaell Caine to see what these are. Motorworks sell the kits. Obviously the engine bores and crankshafts are at same centres. BMW own Mini!!
Put it through a filter and tip it into your diesel fuel. It runs okay up to about a 50/50 mix - stinks a bit though.Two Wheels Better wrote:Did I once read about a mad bastard who swore the old oil from the fish 'n' chippy was the best...something about the potato particles...even better after a busy Saturday night.
bikerboy wrote:The Mini engine that the K100 head can be fitted to is known as a British Leyland A series engine. It can be traced back to the Morris Minor in the late 1940s. The Mini that is made now does not have anything at all to do with the old BL Mini apart from the fact that they were both made at Cowley in Oxford. Even the factory is a different one on the same site.
Strange that you mention the A series engine as it had the gearbox in the sump running on standard engine oil, just like most Jap bikes.
Did you remove the deep fried shrimps or did you leave that to the oil filterk100virgin wrote:Years ago I had An FSO (Polish Fiat) And ran that on used cooking oil in the sump, yes the sump, believe it or not it never gave any trouble. Ignorance is bliss. John
K75cster wrote:Changing your filter when you change your oil is a good practice. Kyle10 I was going to use diesel oil to flush my engine as I thought it only dealt with the gum left over. However what would happen if the engine seemed alittle noisey or high milaged, would the diesel oil;s extra zinc help stave off its untimely end? I've got 230k km's on mine and am just wondering if it might be prudent to switch over some time later on when she gets alittle tired.
Something that we agree on! Thinner oil is the answer to a long lasting engine as engine life should be measured in the number of start ups more than mileage. With an old fashioned 20W50 the engine will run for quite a while before the oil has the chance to get around the whole engine. With a 5W30 or a 5W40 it will save most of that time when the engine is grinding away waiting for the thick oil to circulate.Kyle10 wrote:K75cster wrote:Changing your filter when you change your oil is a good practice. Kyle10 I was going to use diesel oil to flush my engine as I thought it only dealt with the gum left over. However what would happen if the engine seemed alittle noisey or high milaged, would the diesel oil;s extra zinc help stave off its untimely end? I've got 230k km's on mine and am just wondering if it might be prudent to switch over some time later on when she gets alittle tired.
Many people believe that higher-mileage engines benefit from thicker/heavier oils, which is not really true. Contrary to popular belief, thinner oils work far better in that they lubricate better on startup and continue to lube smaller passageways better throughout the heat cycle. I use a 5-30 weight, personally.
Lastly, choice of gas/petrol is also to be considered seriously. Petrol quality is not what it used to be; it is by and large been degraded. Buck up for quality gas and stick with it.
bikerboy wrote:Kyle10 wrote:
Many people believe that higher-mileage engines benefit from thicker/heavier oils, which is not really true. Contrary to popular belief, thinner oils work far better in that they lubricate better on startup and continue to lube smaller passageways better throughout the heat cycle.
That being said K75cster, would a thicker oil leave a heavier deposit on worn parts in an older motor for the next start up? Also as the engine wears wouldn't a thicker oil leave a thicker film around the worn parts thus reducing vibrations caused by the greater tolerances? I have added Morey's engine oil conditioner to my old Honda car and it noticeably quietened the engine noise and it is very slippery,sticky stuff! My old Beemer has over 60,000 miles and always wondered about additives in old motors to thicken the oil slightly, at the same time leaving a thick oil deposit on all surfaces for start up?
bikerboy wrote:Put it through a filter and tip it into your diesel fuel. It runs okay up to about a 50/50 mix - stinks a bit though.Two Wheels Better wrote:Did I once read about a mad bastard who swore the old oil from the fish 'n' chippy was the best...something about the potato particles...even better after a busy Saturday night.
Last edited by 92KK K100LT 193214 on Sat Mar 01, 2014 5:26 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Bikerboy edit.!!)
K-BIKE wrote: the recommendation of sealed for life on the auto trans was just plain wrong and high mileage severe service usage users were killing off their sealed for life gearboxes very frequently with very bad publicity with the result MB had to rush out a change to recommend60,000oil changes.
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