Been using a citrus type

hi mate
gosh its been ages since we've seen you around the forum
have no idea about the best stripper for the kbs ....but smithy might have an idea ..as he has done a fair bit of research into the product ...and is very enthusiastic about the kbs stuff  . perhaps warren his brother might have a few ideas also  ...I believe he's bit of a techie with paint finishes et al ..
I need some of this fantastic stuff also

yes it would be fantastic to see the project nearing completion ...and could promote a long due trip south by quite a few folks I would recon .

so good to see you

Cheers  Charlie,  do you think you could asked them I don't know them they are post my time here. On the upside the frame pretty much everything else is still mint i don't want to touch the clear untill i have a plan of attack

Geez Halo, what a blow!

Keep at it mate as it'll look a million bucks when it's finished!

Blakey you legand thanks for the help so far with my bike for all the bits and the manual mate. Yes left for 3 years and now this.
Trying the stripper only touching this bit the stripper can is 100 years old but it was here
 Bits everywhere 

Nice Job!

Well done.
Is this a good beer ;-)

Cheers

Ha cheers a local brand from melbourne victoria where I live Carlton Draught for here it's an old school beer not a trendy beer

Drink local!
Support your community. I like that.

Cheers

Halo wrote:It all went bad, I have had corrosion come to play since and it's all under that KBS rock hard coating , should have oven baked parts first as there was still moister in the parts , I sprayed in dry warm area but parts where left in shed in winter between sand blasting and spraying and the moist air finish is causing corrosion under the clear coat. What to do ? , I have stripped back to the engine and found that citrus based paint stripper can lift it but its really slow. I just can't spray silver as it is growing 3D under the surface once the clear coat is lifted off the corrosion just wipes off fine.

sorry to hear man, please don't let that stop you, you're doing god's work! keep on with the photo's!

Hey KyleMB thanks mate it's because of your response to this old thread that just mybe it's started again, don't know how easy it's going to be due to the major f up but I will try again
Cheers
Halo

Might be just as easy to start again with fresh covers Jason. That is one of the big problems with the really tough coatings is that they are almost impossible to remove if they do get damaged.

Hey Rick G long time mate I know but its the tranny and swing arm and final drive and the throttle bodies all the above as well  :| sand blasting ?

Hmmm that makes it difficult. The citrus stripper may be best but it is a long process. Maybe some solvent to soften it to get a head start. Throttle bodies would be almost beyond worthwhile saving. I have a couple of sets you can have for the postage along with gearbox case and crank cover if you want them.

RicK G wrote:Hmmm that makes it difficult. The citrus stripper may be best but it is a long process. Maybe some solvent to soften it to get a head start. Throttle bodies would be almost beyond worthwhile saving. I have a couple of sets you can have for the postage along with gearbox case and crank cover if you want them.

You know I forgot all about this in the last 3 years guys like you Rick G that just help others out Charlie, Blakey and you and the rest it never stops amazing me very generous people. 
Don't know its all really bad, must be a way to lift it mybe I should ask KBS but they will probably just say if you followed the instructions it would have worked.
Problem is every part like the gearbox has been refurbished with new seal bearings etc.
I don't know really I don't

If you soften the Epoxy would it not be possible to ultrasound it in one of those units.

Yes that might be an option I shall investigate

Halo wrote:Hey KyleMB thanks mate it's because of your response to this old thread that just mybe it's started again, don't know how easy it's going to be due to the major f up but I will try again
Cheers
Halo

im glad youre in remission. this thread is a gd treasure trove of amazing information and great work. probably this little set back is going to result in an even better bike. ive spent a couple hours digesting it all already. keep it up!

Cheers I'll try

Just put it back together and ride it Jason. I have dogs here who can hardly remember sleeping with you.
Good to hear from you mate.
RT

Hey RT how are you mate yes I remember that very funny.
Whats with that pretty suzuki mate. I must admit that I too have partially turned to the darkside, I now have this as well
An FZR1000 exup 93 my childhood dream bike. This one has less than 49 thou k on it and spent 15 years in the shed as the guy had a badly broken ankle its mint needs no work and rides really well, however not comfortable so I need to get the old K up and running I really miss riding them I sold the 86 K100 to fund this so now no other destruction for the 84 K100. It took a couple of years to find an FZR 1000 in mint nick 

Halo wrote:Hi Charlie started this today again before finding out about Rossco, he was always a great advocate for this restore for me, he used to say I'm convincing the others your not some crazy obsessive restorer and a normal bloke come up for a ride to meet them so they know I'm right about you he would say to me, so I did.

I would love to resurrect this for him/me, I used to call Rossko several times a month when I was working on this , Rossko was always on my back to finish this instead of stuffing around with the K100/K1100 I did instead of this. I would like to make amends for him, my way to deal with his loss.
I was ready to put the fluids in and start the bike, Rossko suggested we should have a meet with other for the starting of the engine. I moved on to the other bike and never did start the engine with him, in retrospect it leaves a nasty lump in my throat.

Got any ideas on how to lift the KBS old mate.
:- sand blasting ?
:- talk to supplier of KBS ?
:- you can see where the stripper lifted the KBS in one photo but it took forever

Those are good thoughts, to finish the K and I am thinking maybe to have the meet up with the some of the Krew. Rosskko was a great ambassador for the forum and I have no doubt wherever he is riding Ks now he would be looking out to see your on back on the road.

Life will always leave us with things that give us the lump in the throat, truth is Rosskko was a family first guy despite his love for Ks and the forum and he would probably have done the same thing. What better way to keep his spirit with us.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:

Halo wrote:Hi Charlie started this today again before finding out about Rossco, he was always a great advocate for this restore for me, he used to say I'm convincing the others your not some crazy obsessive restorer and a normal bloke come up for a ride to meet them so they know I'm right about you he would say to me, so I did.

I would love to resurrect this for him/me, I used to call Rossko several times a month when I was working on this , Rossko was always on my back to finish this instead of stuffing around with the K100/K1100 I did instead of this. I would like to make amends for him, my way to deal with his loss.
I was ready to put the fluids in and start the bike, Rossko suggested we should have a meet with other for the starting of the engine. I moved on to the other bike and never did start the engine with him, in retrospect it leaves a nasty lump in my throat.

Got any ideas on how to lift the KBS old mate.
:- sand blasting ?
:- talk to supplier of KBS ?
:- you can see where the stripper lifted the KBS in one photo but it took forever

Those are good thoughts, to finish the K and I am thinking maybe to have the meet up with the some of the Krew. Rosskko was a great ambassador for the forum and I have no doubt wherever he is riding Ks now he would be looking out to see your on back on the road.

Life will always leave us with things that give us the lump in the throat, truth is Rosskko was a family first guy despite his love for Ks and the forum and he would probably have done the same thing. What better way to keep his spirit with us.

Yep I totaly agree Olaf
Halo

I cant help on the removal of the KBS though. I do some work with industrial paints and apart from abrasive cleaning and chemical cleaning sand blasting/grit blasting is one, another more gentle method is soda blasting but its not so very aggressive on hard to remove stuff. It does lovely stuff on alloy engine parts. But for a recoating you need some form of grip or key so it may not need to be super smooth polished surface. Thing is aluminium can be slightly porous and can retain moisture within, storage at the right temperature for a long enough period is important, if it is cold you can get condensation forming as you coat outside with material that will be at probably 70f if not more. You might even find it easier to get another set of engine covers and go at it again. The ones you take off will sell presumably for the same money and it will save you looking at a half stripped off engine for too long.
.

Thanks Olaf you are correct I tried the citrus stripper it does work but way too slow and some of the bits stick like RickG said its horrible to use and gives me a headache. 
Check this out here is one bit that escaped the KBS I must have just done before I stopped working on her. 
It was just prepped the same as the other parts that have gone bad. It still looks fantastic this part was on the bike for the three years also. I reckon that I might just leave the rest of it bare aluminum. 
I might just try the good old old reliable sand blaster up again havent started it up in years and try the coated KBS side cover if it turns up 1/2 as good as the part below thats bear I'll be happy 

Well I have pulled the bike further apart and now have decided to stick with the KBS clear. The engine block is fine the rest of the parts are being stripped of the KBS and re sand blasted and finished again in the KBS . This time I will dry in my industrial oven I have purchased before spraying. The KBS does lift with stripper look below.

Having it lift off with regular stripper will make it a bit easier than using the citrus.

Yer cheers Rick G, I was wondering if normal stripper would corrode the aluminium though. The buety of the citrus is that you can just leave it on for 24 plus hours, but I could easily be wrong.

I wouldn't leave the normal stripper on for 24 hours but for 3 hours it should be OK. I have found that any longer than 2-3 hours it tends to dry and then is difficult to remove the wrinkled mess.
I have done a few aluminium tanks with the normal stripper and haven't had any problems.

Ok shall buy some this weekend Cheers Rick

You can cover the goo with gladwrap, helps it stay sticky. Wear gloves and ventilate the area, that Methyl Chloride stripper is literally a killer.

RT wrote:You can cover the goo with gladwrap, helps it stay sticky. Wear gloves and ventilate the area, that Methyl Chloride stripper is literally a killer.

Thanks RT good advice , Luckily I'm having good success now with a non Methyl Chloride stripper it stays wet forever and just washes off with water, just smells like lemons etc.

Bits are being stripped and I will be ready to rebuild again again  .
Smithy had some good advice about the prep to do next time before I spray and that KBS have a stripper that I will get this week and try, cheers mate . 
Setup a rack to rebuild on, I am getting too old to lean down all the time. This is my poor mans solution to a bike lift, the only lifting this one will do is the blokes required
get it off when the whole bike is complete.
 
.

Luckily the block has very minimal corrosion under the KBS so I am leaving this, therefore all parts that can be put on that don't require stripping will be put on now.



First part stripped from KBS and ready for blasting




Injectors next, hey guys whats the go with the injector rework these days ?. I have two different types ones off my k100 16V the other off the K100 8V, any differences between them ?.

From what I can see, 4 have blue caps, 3 have yellow caps and one cap is missing.

I hope that helps...

We'll get BlaKey back in his cage as soon as possible Jason
The K100 injector will have 280 50 705 on the plastic top part they are the correct ones for an 8v
Correction 210 is 8V and 705 is 16V
I was going on some I took from a K100 I have here and apparently the incorect injectors were put in there before I got to it Sorry about that folks.

At least Blakey is not colour blind.

Cheers Rick thanks for the numbers I will check, does Alby still referb these I remember he was good enough to do a set for me once for a good price (just parts and postage if I remember ).
Ainsjac your right if I remeber red was BlaKeys color , maybe Rick we get him a red cage..

I did have a set of refurbished ones (new cap, new seals, new filter) and they where cleaned using an ultrasound thingy. I packaged them up in plastic.

I sent them to someone here on the forum (I forgot who) and he said that one or two of them weren't working. He sent them to a guy to get them cleaned, but apparently they couldn't be bought back to life.

So I don't really know if you can successfully clean them and store them for later use.

Hopefully someone here will explain the correct way to clean and store them.

Interesting, I had some that had been cleaned and stored and one of them wouldn't work when I tried them, maybe they need something like CRC or just oil put in there to stop the pintle valve rusting shut. That carb cleaner leaves nothing on the faces so it would be easy for rusty the home wrecker to take hold.

Another nights work added more good bits again

RicK G wrote:Interesting, I had some that had been cleaned and stored and one of them wouldn't work when I tried them, maybe they need something like CRC or just oil put in there to stop the pintle valve rusting shut. That carb cleaner leaves nothing on the faces so it would be easy for rusty the home wrecker to take hold.

I had 2 sets cleaned ultrasonically and the local firm (Petroject) that did the job said that if I was not going to use them soonish to spray WD40 in them and store in a sealed plastic bag

Halo! Youre back! Fanbloodytastic!

Also, I too have had injectors ultrasonically cleaned and tested - only to have one fail completely by the time I used them. Couldnt be saved by the bloke who cleaned it.

Hi Floyd how are you man, great ride and stay at dinner plains that time with you.
I have been looking at your thread as well good work dude.
Back onto the K100 84 now and to be honest I didn't know where to start after the corrosion but I am back with a plan now.
Rosskko was always on my back to finish her so here I am.
Thinking the injectors might be best new then based on the comments here mate, cheers Packo Rick and Blakey  as well.
Whats the go with the multi spray injectors again guys ?.
Are they better ?

Injectors.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-K1-K100-K100RS-K100RT-K100LT-BOSCH-Upgrade-/122007055164?hash=item1c682feb3c:g:sK4AAOSwLnBXVIAZ

Cheers Olaf yes thats the ones it's all coming back to me now.
Definitely think for that kind of money well worth the investment.  
I like the balanced set idea as well.
Trying to fit the horns but forget where they mount and the Hayes manual doesn't show me. Andys still got the Clymers manual that Blakey lent me.
Time to call Andy

RicK G wrote:We'll get BlaKey back in his cage as soon as possible Jason
The K100 injector will have 280 50 705 on the plastic top part they are the correct ones for an 8v

hi rick just reading halos resto and wondering what the correct injectors for the 16 v motor are [ as i ended up buying it from him ] for my project bike hope all is well your end of the woods  cheers woodcutter 

RicK G wrote:We'll get BlaKey back in his cage as soon as possible Jason
The K100 injector will have 280 50 705 on the plastic top part they are the correct ones for an 8v

210s are for the 2V Ks.

705s are for 4V.

duck wrote:

RicK G wrote:We'll get BlaKey back in his cage as soon as possible Jason
The K100 injector will have 280 50 705 on the plastic top part they are the correct ones for an 8v

210s are for the 2V Ks.

705s are for 4V.

thanks for the confirmation duck thats what i thought as i checked the numbers on the injectors and they were marked 280-150-705 and i had previously bought a set of those 4 pintle upgrade injectors from martin diaz from ebay [ dimarmotorsports ] out of canoga park CA and he said that the upgrade ones will be fine in the 4v motor as they had the same specs ie ohms and flow rates its all new to me as im a old carby man lol so i might give them a go in the 4v and see how they perform , if no go i'll get the original single pintle ones reco'd and shove them in , have picked up a 1992 k100 rs frame from sydney ,so progress will be made once that arrives here , i did not want to get a complete 16 valve bike and dismantle it to build a custom from it and take another good complete bike off the road , so im building this one up from parts bin items i have parts ive sourced from australia , germany , austria , USA - wisconsin  fort lauderdale FL , UK , to coin a phrase  , " a multiKultural bike lmao , the motor was the one halo bought for his '86  RS SE that got sold off for the FIZZER 1000 he rides now   thanks again for the confirmation on the injectors  keep in touch cheers and best regards woodcutter

Hey everyone, I happen to have my injectors from my '91 8V K1 on the bench so checked the numbers - 0280 150 716. These don't match with anything mentioned so could someone enlighten me as to what I have, other than the obvious being they are different. No idea the history of this motor but maybe the K1 came with slightly higher flow injectors...