The engine has now been all torqued up as per the manual with the the various locktite compounds along the way so I am ready for the TBS and hoses etc to go on.

Crap.
I am going to stop posting pictures now. Between you and Alex I am just happy my bike is clean(er).
Nice work Halo

hi mate ... i have a 16 spline shaft pinion bevel box to rebuild ....and it kinda sceares me ....but i think i have nothing to lose as its been moving fore and aft ...from before i got it ... the actuall bmw service handbook goes a long way to explain how and why ...whilst the haines just says ... steer clear

about the gear box ...i definatly would be putting in the seals at a minimum

i have noticed that the input shaft bearings seem to take a real load as the clutch plate does its job ... judging from others work..

Hey Halo,

Good to see that the weather is now allowing you the time to work on the bike... Have a peek in the How to section and you will see my photo thread on the gearbox. I replaced all of the seals apart from one They are easy to do. and you know what sod's law says especially as you have the kit in your hands!

Twincarb

Thanks Charlie & twin carb for your advice well as usual with this forum good advice is always present. Yes as a minimum l will do the seals, really good to know twin carb you have tackled this I will check out your thread today. Yes the weather has been really cold here this winter and the shed has been anything but warm but I am working on that. Charlie I better check out that bearing as well, and thanks for the heads up with the BMW manual will look and advise twincarb have you touched the final drive pinion gear?.
Rossco your doing a great job keep it up
Halo

I haven't had to do any work on the pinion gear, I stripped it down for a visual but everything looked good to me

Twin carb hood write up on the gearbox great work that should make it easier for me to do on Saturday. I will strip the box down first so it's easier to soda blast the cases
Halo

It doesn't take to long to put it all back together, I seem to recall it was a little over an hour and that was with taking all the photo's as well....

I had my gearbox cleaned but wasn't happy with the final result so I have since painted it black!

Hope you get some heating sorted in your workshop soon...

Yes twincarb the initial warmth was found in a bottle of Jameson and I pick up a reverse cycle inverter airconditioner this weekend. I have prept the final drive for soda blasting tom (first clean) and I pulled the gearbox apart tonight after the general consenses was to open her up. Had some real trouble with the idler saft as she wouldnt let go, I heated it up in the end and she came out. Now the cases are ready for soda tom as well then seals

I am trying to remember if I popped the Black breather cap off of my final drive before I cleaned it all up! as otherwise you end up with soda caught under it....

I stripped it apart and dropped the whole unit into a hot bowl of water and washing up liquid to clean it up after. before giving it a good dry with compressed air...

Well twincarb I did block the FD breather hole thanks, the cleaning took about 6 hours and ended up being a combination of degreaser first soda blasting second, stealwool, brass brush and soapy water then paint prep.







Now its KBS clear spray time 2 days to dry then seals and complete drive train assy on the bench during the week with a bit of luck
Halo

Um...guys.

I can see a problem coming up.

When Halo comes on rides with us, will he be forced to ride a few kilometers behind, because his bike will make ours look like rat bikes?

I didn't read anywhere that Halo was going to intend riding the bike hehe

blakey wrote:Um...guys.

I can see a problem coming up.

When Halo comes on rides with us, will he be forced to ride a few kilometers behind, because his bike will make ours look like rat bikes?

oh crap ....ill have to fake a heart attack fuel shortage again ...thus holding him up a little ....cant have these bl00dy rs things leading out front huh ? oops did i just say that ? giggles

You guys seriously what do you mean ride it, l thought this was a 1:1 model kit that after you build you put on the shelf With the other ones.
With respect to Charlies comment about rs & rt all l will say is if you look at the forum header which k100 bike type is able to lean over further hey hey

It aint leanin over it's fallin over.

its all good halo ,,,,

btw they all lean the same amount, till the crankcases grind ....

done that on the way down the hill to areluen

Yep Charlie all good, I would like to have one as well. Did the second spray in my den, leave it for at least two days.

That's just clear spray???????????? man that's good work

super cool look halo ...drools ...

Thanks K75 its a KBS paint that's more like 2 pack l have a speel about it a couple of thread pages back
Halo

Lookin good Halo !

Thanks 88KE & Charlie can't wait for it to dry and connect all these parts to the engine on the bench next week. Then it's onto the frame which is in the sand blaster booth at present.



Halo

such a shame really ...just spent a couple of hours trying to wash off about 4000 ks of road grime ...ya get that .on the big jobs !

Yes I know Charlie you get road grime and my bike in bits gets shed dust it's almost the same thing isn't it

Halo

Replaced the seals in the gearbox tonight and damaged the seal on the shaft to the clutch housing, stupid really I wasn't thinking. Will get one from BMW shop tomorrow, the backing of the neutral switch fell apart in my hands what's the go there? .
Halo

I had one do that on the K75 and ended up covering the back of the thing in sika flex and two years down the track it still works.

Yes Rick G it sounds like the go for me as well the switch still looks ok however I will test I think some sika flex will work but l will build a bit of a mold around it first.
Halo

Finished off the gearbox tonight after going to my local BMW bike shop and getting another seal, It was then that I stripped the last bolt on the gearbox reco the one for the neutral switch that holds the ball & spring. I checked the torque setting in the manual several times and made sure I was refering to the correct part as it felt tight and stripped it, any ideas please guys?.

The final drive, gearbox & swing arm assy came up not too shabby





Halo

Either a helicoil ot tap it out to 10mm and get a 10mm bolt the correct length.

Halo wrote:.... made sure I was refering to the correct part as it felt tight and stripped it, any ideas please guys?.

Here's my technique:
Curse, swear, Shake your fist at it....threathen it with a box of matches and a gallon of petrol, walk away, breathe deeply and repeat, calm down...walk back in, reassess. Await someone's advice more technical than mine

Seiously tho' the best success I've had with stripped threads have been with an epxoy putty Called Devcon, It's a chemical steel and can be drilled, machined and tapped once hardened. I've redone an exhaust stud socket with it and clamped up tight not to mention numerous other repairs. Rick G told me he repaired a crankcase the had been pierced by a conrod with the same stuff. It's expensive but very good.

The FD and all cleaned up beauty, how do you get them so clean? REALLY impressive work Halo.

88

Ammendment to post: Rick G's been typing at the same time as me! just seen the picture again..tap it out to the larger size looks easiest. - Make sure it's properly centered.

Thanks Rick G & 88KE I have never used helicolls etc I was hoping I didn't have to open the case again but anyway. 88KE it's all just patients and elbo grease, thanks for the complement though keeps me going.

Halo

Cleaned the shed up for the old girls reassembly


The frame needs a good clean, I'll sandblast next

wow what a sight halo



onya mate !

Fired up the outside sand blaster cabinet for the bigger parts and started on the frame alot more to do





Will spray the plastic parts around the engine next, abit of wet and dry and apply the sprays

Hmmmm That bumper spray should work on my givi panniers. Worth a try

Yes Rick G worth a shot I will update photos during the week, I never marked the clutch plates up any ideas ?

Halo

Just put them back in. I have done it a few times without any problem. I can not make any real sense out of the ballance marks and drill holes to remove metal.
My theory is that they are all ballance individually and then asembled and checked and if by chance the margins add up to a slight out of ballance then they change it.
You don't need to buy them as a set

Yes my thoughts exactly why would they have individual balance marks if they were not balanced individually? Still should have marked it.

if there are any marks at all ....i think i read a bulletin that says , assemble any marks 120 degrees apart ..

good luck halo mate !!!

Yes 120 degrees all marks were sans blasted off just don't know when to stop with that machine

ill send you a cold chisel then ???? throw that brush away ....giggles

Each of the clutch parts is marked at their heaviest spot.
By mounting them 120 degree apart, they all pointing in different directions.

A metod I did read about somewhere, was to put a tennis ball or similar at the center and place it on a table.
Then move the different parts around, to find the best balance point.

Newer tested this............

Inge K sounds worth trying I will tell you how it goes, I ordered the helicoil M10 kit on ebay comming from England.

Awesome work, Halo. The blasting + clear coat looks stunning. I have an airhead on the side, where I painted the engine with Bill Hersch engine enamel. Would the fact that the K100 engine is water cooled eliminate the need for using paints and clear coats suited to better dissipate heat?

I was wondering if you have a picture of the crankcase from the right? Eventually, I need to take this off and put new sealant in, and a fresh pic would certainly help. Also, what are you using for sealant between case parts (apart from the obvious ready-made gaskets)?

Thanks
Erman

Hi Erman, they tell me that the spray paints do affect the heat dissapation as even though it's water cooled they rely on the radial fins on the sump to dissapate heat as well the power coating process being the worst, you could use acrylic black or clear, I use a KBS system as explained in few pages back. Heres the picture you wanted I hope this helps.



The case sealent I use is this one, purchased from motobins in the UK but no doubt you could source locally

I was keen to try spraying the plastic parts now that I'm starting to put the old girl back together. I found some deep marks were the TBS airbox was siting under the fairing, I sanded these out with water and detergent with 300 wet & dry onwards.



Then applied the bumper primer 2 coats



Then the top coat bumper spray 2 coats. It came out more diffused than to my liking but looks better than before. Will do the airbox next.





Halo

Wow I can feel a panier painting comming on here.

Yes I must buy a scratched up set and try that would be a good project

Yes I must buy a scratched up set and try that would be a good project
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