Jason,

I think you and Oldgoat are trying to make these bikes better than they were new.
The result looks very impressive.

CF

Thanks Bert for your approval its appreciated It's all for the good of the Kbikes I'm just wrapped I have been able to partake as well.

charlie99 wrote:i think the secret is not to buy the biggest but have a look at watts per dollar, amongst the lower power units i mean 5x 30 watt units a 20 each could be cheeper than 2 x 80 or 100 watt .....if you get my drift

CHARLIE IS RIGHT ON THE MONEY HERE. aLL THE UNITS i LOOKED AT HAD BANKS OF TRANSDUCERS IN THEM.

Yes got some quotes happening with Alibaba and the high watt units are very expensive but can get a 100watt unit for around 14USD each. will order some I have found I simple mosfet drive circuit just using square waves should be ok testing will tell freight 45USD I hope to get a 500watt version going for little coin

good research halo ....lets hope it all comes together for you ...

im guessing a few folks will be following your progress on this bit of hardware ...

cheers mate

First schematic will try a dead simple circuit type first some values require adjustment just the topography so far.

and a verry powerfull power supply ?!!!

whats the top volts for the resonators halo ....(i havent seen the spec sheet and cant read the mosfet numbers in this diagram ) or just retify and smooth the mains ??

Assuming the transducer rating is continuous then with 5 we have 500 watts with an impedence of 25 ohms @ 25 khz with 5 in parellel ends up at 5 ohms therefore using simple math Power = V2 * R with

p=500 & R = 5ohms Leaves V at 50 volts this is RMS though RMS =.707*peak this leaves us with the rail at 70V for a Hbridge type circuit therefore we need a 70V rail as P=i*r as well we have 500W = 70V * I
therefor the current will be 7.14 Amp so we need a regulated 70V DC power supply that can source a current of around 8 Amps with the H bridge we will get a peak to peak voltage of 140 volts however at any point in time the potentail differential will only be 70V

hmm regulated supply ....not likely ...

maybe + and - 35 volts ....so taking that back a little maybe a 27 odd ac volt tranni at 500 watts ....hoowee !!! and lots of micro farads to smooth it out some ....cool

that sounds kinda similar to what we make for our pa amp power supplies .....pity they are only 300 watt rated transformers about 120000 uf is what we do for smoothing

just some thoughts

Yes I keep forgetting about the amount of power we are using, agreed the power supply is the next challenge and it needs to be cheap I have found a a 200W drive circuit at 40Khz from the china transducer supplier, $70 for the driver $11 each for the 50W resonators, have ordered.

Halo

I have temporarily put the engine back together to soda blast it I have used high density foam and turned up PVC discs to stop any foreign media from entering the engine





I next set up a cheap soda blasting cabinet that I can use for the larger parts like the engine and frame etc. This was made from a $60 greenhouse from local hardware store and using a gravity feed blasting gun.





Result after 1/2 an hour gave up at dusk and will comtinue tommorrow.

Looking Good!!!

+1

Put another 4 hours in on the blasting today and this is the current state of the motor, boy did I get dirty even with the resperator and equipment I had 4 showers today :silent:





Its getting there however the wife has cracked the sads so it's off to paint the side of the house before I can continue and its 28 foot off the ground

Looking great so far, I cant wait to see how it is going to look once you have finished the clean and have washed it down.... I am now looking at investing in a compressor i think... I have an USC which is great but there are lots of parts that need a bit more effort.

I must find time on my next 4 days off to do some work on my K so dhe is closer to getting back on the road

Twincarb your bike looks great what does it need to get back on the road again ?

The main bulk of what i need to do is cleaning... The engine being the main one. The engine casing panels are the only bits i need to get re powdercoated and then bring the detailing back out again... The weather here would be ideal at the moment for commuting on the K again rather than the car....

I need to replace a some of the rubber parts but thats expected for bikes of our age, The main thing i need to do is send the driveshaft off to get the splines repaired... I think that i may make that phonecall now!

Take a bit of caution when powder coating. On a water cooled bike it is not as critical as on an air cooled but the powder coat is plastic and as such does not transfer heat very well at all. Most engines get cooling just from the air flow over the engine surface and the plastic won't transfer the heat so cooling can take effect.
I know of three engines that cooked because the things were powder coated and many more that used to overheat for the same reason.
Even powder coating the side cases and crankcases will cause overheating. I would not do it for any price even on a water cooled engine.

What would you suggest for the side cases and crankcase then K freak? A standard engine paint?

Yeah the high temp paint is fairly good but hard to get a gloss. I'm not sure what factory use but I dare say that someone will come along and tell us.
One other problem I have seen with the powder coating is the inside surface peeling if the surface isn't cleaned properly. The peelings got into the scavenge filter for the oilpump and caused problems like oil starvation. Some alloys oil impregnation can cause problems although I haven't seen that on any BMW alloy.
Good powder coating is very stable but I know here in Oz it is difficult to get a good job and they will all tell you they are the best.

Twincarb yes go do it get the splines repaired so you can get back on the road again the detailing like the engine covers can be taken off and blasted after, your bike looks to good to be sitting. You should take a few pictures and do a small post I would be very keen to watch and comment for inspiration and moral support

+ 1

my restoration is the thread below this one in the your own renovation section...

Ooops sorry twincarb Great advice K freak about the powder coating that what makes this forum so good informed advice rather than just speculation. I am very excited about the clear & black coat I purchased from my local automotive paint shop it's just out on the market and it is suppost to be much better than a two pack solution in a single pack (I know sounds too good to be true). Infomation below





As stated its SUPPOSED to be extremely durable, flexable etc the section in black marker shows battery acid left on for 7 days then washed off not leaving a mark I think this would be good for petrol spills etc, as my early girl only has black on sump all the rest will be sprayed on with this guff, that way I am hopping the current blasting and cleaning will be a once off event. I also read an interesting artical in Classic bike yesterday that mentioned on the old air cooled triumph engines that even polishing the cases can cause heating issues instead of leaving the original rough finish which gives better heat dissapation so I'm not surprised by K freaks concerns with powder coating.

First time through the blaster & wash one more set still to do

wow ....nice work !!!

i seem to recall that anodising maintaines the surface area to air contact volume ,,,better than other alternatives where as paint kinda fills up the gaps and decreases the actual metal to air contact area ...

the satin black seen on a few later models of the "k" on closer inspection ...could well be anodised on rather than paint ....

just food for thought

Will be interested to see how you like the KBS Halo. I've used it on my center stand and other projects with mixed results...


OG

Just finished the second blasting and wash session now ready for the soapy water and wire brush clean then the KBS clear.

absolutly stunning job halo ....fantastic work

Simply brilliant..cant wait to see what happens when you get up to full steam!!!

Thanks guys appreciated

I'm totally astonished about the work you're doing but, I was wondering if there wouldn't be any trouble blasting the engine without dismounting, I mean, I think that despite covering all possible holes, the possibility of having tiny amounts of soda into some critical part is pretty high and if that would happen you may have a serious damage in you engine.

This's just my personal point of view.

Good luck:P

Amazing result Halo,
Are you sure you haven't bought a new engine without telling us?

Looking forward to the rest of this thread.
Cheers.
Paul.

Thanks side car Paul that's the exact effect I am hoping to achieve with this restore .
Domingo your concern is shared by me and no doubt many others as well, it was the most common concern with the research I did into this task. The engine is only temporally put back together for clear coating after a week of drying I will be stripping the engine down yet again for inspection, flushing and the mechanical restoration.
Halo

Halo_player wrote:Thanks side car Paul that's the exact effect I am hoping to achieve with this restore .
Domingo your concern is shared by me and no doubt many others as well, it was the most common concern with the research I did into this task. The engine is only temporally put back together for clear coating after a week of drying I will be stripping the engine down yet again for inspection, flushing and the mechanical restoration.
Halo

Seems to me that you wouldn't dare to star the engine in that condition. Stripping down is the right think to do once you're reached that level of restoration.

Good luck, I'll follow you while restoring.

I'm amazed at the result of the soda blasting. That engine is a thing of beauty!

I am tottally torn now as to whether or not to put the engine in the car and see if the compressor we have in work is powerfull enough to clean my engine up back to how it should be.... The only nag is that a lot of it is hidden away from site......

Damn I am jealous lol

Finally finished the third clear coat photos not the best as my good camera has gone belly up for now.

Congratulations, you've done an amazing job. Seems better than new. Have you covered it with any kind of varnish? It shines like if it was.

Thanks Domingo I used the KBS system this one was their clear coat diamond finish which is a tough acid resistant flexible clear coat that goes on like a two pack but only requires single pack to spray so it's says in the speel anyway. I did lash out and buy a fairly good gravity feed spray gun with a oil/water seperator attatched and thinned the paint to the manufactures recommendations. I will be using this approach for all the exposed aluminium parts, the photos and description of the paint is higher up my forum page. THE FUN REALLY STARTS NOW as I get to use the KBS black on the sump , engine lower and oil pump I'm hoping it really contrasts well against the clear thanks for your positive comments.

magic !!!

Bellissima Halo player!

88

I've never heard about such magical treatment but, the result is stunning.

I'll be looking forward the next pictures.

I like it Halo. What Brand of gun did you buy as I'm thinking that was part of the problem with my mixed results... might be time to pony up for some proper spray equipment?

OG

OG the gun is a gravity feed $150 job which is fairly cheep compared to the professional guns.It seems to work very well, I added a water/oil filter also and the compressor I have is decent.

WHAT A FANTASTIC RESULT!!!!!!!

(just happen to have a spare engine lying around........if your not too busy building a new bike.)

Alby thanks for the praise I have a long hose reel type line I am very interested in what a Compressor hose line dryer is that you mentioned in your response that somehow now has disappeared.
Halo

I have 6 100W transducers comming that cost me only $40 from china but $60 to land as weight 3 kg still way cheap. Just for now at work we have a 2000W H bridge type amplifier that can be wound up to the desired volatage I need that we use to vibrate grain out of wheat silos that I can take home and use. I am going to purchase an laundry sink cheap from ebay and install transducers and hope this cleans well. The reason I mention this is I found the 100W cleaner at work that cost them $400 from Jaycar and tried tonight on the TB that I have previously sodablasted and was dissapointed with the result.

i have been doing some thinking ...( yes dangerous stuff ) and the cheapest power supply i can think of ....might be atx "pc" type power supply ....yes just about 12 volts ...but in the area of 30 odd amps .....hmm serious numbers there ...a second handy might cost $20 ...what is it ....5volt standby (always on ....to "power good signal" or something to turn it on ...to ground to turn it off ? ....i better look it up)

nice gun there halo .....pics tell more than specs sometimes ...i guess its all to do with "tecnique" , ability and persistance ...

i think the real benefit of the ultrasonic is to vibrate the little holes and crevices with an active cleaner ..where we cant normaly get at .....injectors, bypass air cavities and such ?