also found "just the thing" for a fuel cooler

bargain



just about perfect for the job ,,heres a pic to get some perspective

not sure of the final position

Toto_jp wrote:OMG your gonna look like a disco queen in them or is that boy racer ??? Just need to dye them now to match gertie

lol ...thanks tony ....yeah lairy huh ?

hmm was thinking of looking for a colour similar to gerty too ...change the red to maddison ?

good score with the fuel / oil cooler is there room in front of the radiator to keep the cooler away from radiator
bigger gap be better insulator from heat transfer
Maybe be you better buy set of danaise leathers with a star on it to match your boots and your new found youth / bloody hoons

yeah its a 2 core radiator tony so have that 15-20 mm in front where there is a gap straight down from the radiator frame so with a couple of brackets should position up pretty well out front , (with gap ) but your right best to keep it away from the radiator , at 90 c or something like that .

was thinking a mount sideways , one end starting at the timing cover and going accross the engine front below the radiator propped out about 30 mm ...as long as i add a rubber front guard extension down a bit ...keep the stones and stuff from kicking up but still contemplating .

but by the look of the widdle radiator has all the right stuff ....as in correct inlet and outlet tube size ...plus the cores are separated by real metal rather than some i have seen made of rubber cushions between cores . looking for webbed metal armoured fuel hose for the connection out front .

but there are other plans for the through radiator air flow . air feed through throttle bodies and air filter including a largish air gap (100 mm or more) between motor and afm collector point -feed to tbs, basically a reduced size air box in height , with far less bends in the air induction through the inlet path ...we'll get to do wheelies i recon by the end .

the metal sheath for the hose used to be sold by Supercheap and Repco including the caps that go on the end BUT I can see it now every hose and exposed cable would end up with it

If you still get good air flow on the side might be better place for the cooler

have some ideas for a different radiator surround - splitter arangement with aluminium tony ...will see how it turns out .

Nice find Charlie, that cooler will help heaps. Wow dem are flash ridin boots you got there mate, you will be much faster now. Scrapin the pegs at every turn.Next you'll need some Oggy Knobs..........

glad i made your day ...grin

Can't wait to see the bike after you paint it to suit the boots. :afro:

found this stuff and going to give it a try



A moly non-soap grease for extremely high temperature applications.
MOLYBENTONE NON SOAP GREASE 2 is a high temperature grease made with a non-soap bentonite thickener, molybdenum disulphide, and a heavy paraffinic base oil. It is extremely resistant to softening at high temperatures and has a high load carrying capacity and resistance to ‘water wash-out’. It also has good pumpability characteristics when used in centralised lubricating systems.

Note:
Molybentone grease is not compatible with other greases. Former grease must be completely removed and cleaned from bearings before using Molybentone grease.

NZFSA Approved C 11



just a thought for the rear splines

Are you not able to get "Staburags" over there, I do have some which I bought from a visiting FB rider from Germany 2 years back, your only cost is the postage which cannot be much, the grease is packed into a 35mm camera film plastic tub.

Not sure of the weight, will check.

I believe one container will do approx 4 lubes Gearbox and FD

Your call

thanks ungas

this stuff comes in a 500-600 ml cartridge , so if it works it will certainly outlast my maintenace requirements and for only $17.00

additional information on the tube confirms that it acts as a dry lubricant , of corse mulibdimum disulphide being used in "extreeme presure " situations

just some 12 years ago we could buy moly in similar tubes for under $5.00 almost everywhere ...now days extreemly hard to find .

shaft pull down and back in now ...the stuff has a good feel to it and really sides nicely on the splines

just to put the back wheel on .

found a possible issue i have been noticing ...ive been getting a surge ...um drag affect over bumps just lately

found the shaft wasnt clicked home properly on the g/box output ...into the circlip holding position ...dont know what happened there but its fitted home properly now and has good resistance to remooval ...i guess the uni was mooving in relation to the output axis -pivot point ...lucky i found it before too much damage was done .

splines look good

took about an hour go to woe including cleanup

Good work.
That's an issue with the car rim on mine...relocating the rear rim by myself is a PITA..without any kind of locating dowels etc. It's heavy and difficult to line up with that spacer. I use a bit of grease to hold the spacer, but it's still hard yakka! Any tips?

you couldnt drill a pilot screw around the circumference of the adaptor seanii ie a bolt through the actual rim in line with the studs (would only have to be say 5 mm=small head ) into the adaptor plate ?

first thing that comes to mind mate

or do you mean the 2mm spacer ?

what about super gluing it in place ? just a drop would do

A pilot screw could be something to think about. Yes, the 2mm spacer. Grease holds that in place well enough to do the job, but it's the weight of the car rim while you're lying on the floor trying to hold it in place long enough to get two of the bolts located. Bike jacked up of course. Have also tried putting a chock under the wheel to achieve the right height etc.
Yes...some kind of pilot thingy. Otherwise it's really a two man job. One to locate, the other to insert.
So to speak.

yeah you would need arms like a weight lifter

the impossible we can do immediatly ....but miracles take longer mate

Saxon.........One solution could be,,,get a wheel bolt (or two) with the correct threads that is a bit longer.

Cut the head(s) off, make the outer end(s) conical and grind a grove...so they could can be dismantled with a flat blade screwdriver.
Then the spacer would be in the correct position, and these bolt(s) would act as a guide when putting the wheel on.

About the need to lift the wheel:,,,,a (homemade) heigth adjustable wheel dolly, would make this a bit easier.

I don`t know if you got enough space available for this solution, since you probably got different rear wheel (I`ll guess) than a solo.

Hmm......some good ideas and food for thought.
Yes Inge, its a car full rim. 15".
Thanks for those replies!
The idea of a removal pilot locator is a good one I think. Two to line up and then I can use the proper bolts.

great idea inge ....!!

BTW. the size of the genuine bolts is M12 x 1,5 x 60.

trialling a little "under fairing vent system "

it seems hot enough round here at the moment to give it a try and appreciate the differences (today well into the 30 degree c area and sunshine ..hot as hell )

i thought the Bingara run would give it a good distance to confirm its benefits .

the idea being to push some air in behind the fairing where there is usually just a low presure still air bubble

i made a boo boo with the measurements and bent it too wide on the center section by about 20 mm ...oh well !.. if it works could be worth revisiting and improoving.

the design starts off at 20mm plus the fairing relief and decresses to about 10mm difference at the rear of the front fairing lower ...and then a 40mm kick up of about 30 degrees in a nice curve ...still gives fork gaiter clearance and all that stuff ..

what do you think ?

Mate i reckon that looks the goods. Be interested to hear the results from the trip to bingara.

the vent is a "keeper "

havent measured much at all about flow and stuff ...but it did keep air mooving through the fairing . and a much cooler atmoshere for the rider in that air bubble behind the screen .

I might have to bash one of those up for me. just so happens I knocked up a small sheet brake today. (bert2.0 look away now) It works quite well. bends up to 2mm alloy sheet.

cool !!!

Now all you need do is make another and use it to duct air over the radiator and under the tank for complete comfort hay mate

Hey Alby so long as it works mate. I built one of those once,worked a treat. Better than hammer and vise hey. I'm not going to criticise your welding skills( where is that pelican...Just joking). Wish my elektrickity skills were on par with your welding.

Gotta get up your way to see this wheelbarrow thing you have bought to strap to the side of your bike. Good excuse for a ride any ride. If this other zorst turns out I'll put it on for the ride.

K75cster wrote:Now all you need do is make another and use it to duct air over the radiator and under the tank for complete comfort hay mate

already in the planning stages keith ...grin

ive given up the fiberglass mould project for under the tank and pushing air up under the tank (its just so frigging messy to build and play with) ...back to metal mate .

thanks to rick g i got a part of an altenator to play with, on our recent bingara meet

what has me interested is thet there are now different types of avelanche diodes in the rectifier circuit .(well different from 20 something years ago ) these days .

heres the diode packs of the original



and the connections under the assembly



seems ill have to do a little drilling of the rivets that holds it all together before i can access the electronics and connection points ....but looks easy enough

my hope is that the newer style diodes and just the fact of replacing them will restore the output current abilities of the altenator to some where near the 30 odd amps that it is rated for .

some folks will have noted that there is a significant voltage drop as the altenator approaches about 25 amps (fullish load on the old girl ) and cant maintain the nice 12.8 volts + to keep the battery charging and in good state whilst riding with all the neccesary electrics and headlamps on.

alby has replaced his regulator ,,,but notes that the voltage is boiling off some electrolyte pretty quick .

i seem to remember that there are 2 types of regulator (just by naming convention in the trade out here) , a "country style" --made for folks that travel significnt distances regularly and standard design , and the "city style" which is over the standard voltages maybe 14.2 or so ....(for all those short trips around town ... )



trying to pull those diodes out get a good measurement of the physical characteristics ready for some newer versions to press in ....of corse relative costings are a concideration (i might be cheep but i do expect a good result in the end )

still waiting for our workplace to start pc board manufacture again with some simple tools so i can implement the new pcboard for the led display gear indicator (hopefully the auto dimming for night time will work ok with the concept i have ) but i will have to build it to test it .

again thanks rick ....really appreciated ...cheers !

started the radiator shroud mod









still some work to do



of corse lady luck had something to say whilst pulling bits off

At this point in time you are allowed to say "bugga". Or if you are really angry I will allow you to use the good old Aussie saying.....may your chooks turn into emus and kick your dunny down. I am not sure how this will translate into other languages.

Looking good there Charlie, bit of a bumma about the bracket. Give me a yell if you need that welded up mate.

new bracket made out of some 3- 4 mm steel x 25 mm or something ....really quite strong actually ...i better make one for the other side as well

still a hole or two to drill 16mm? for the rubber mounting to fairing and a little clean up and some paint

Good old Aussie ingenuity. Now you need some number 8 wire.....just in case. Most of the stuff I make involves an angle grinder, a vice and two different size/weight hammers. An electric drill finishes off the job.

I'm still tryin to figure out what I did before those 1mm cut off discs were invented.
Agreed ainsjac, but I will add Tig welder to that and 7" sander/polisher for buffing stainless.

We may as well throw in an air compressor as well.....oh hell,, what about a good set of sockets.Amazing what we do to keep things going. I like the good/bad news jobs. My ute lost 5th gear last weekend.....good news ..it is a circlip which has "fallen" off...cost $4.80. The bad news is that the transfer case comes off, gearbox to be stripped completely and of course other worn things will be found as the ute has covered a lot in it's 10 years.
I am about the size of Alby and cannot work that well fiddling with the gearbox on car stands.....We all need a hoist!

Wouldn't happen to be a landcruiser would it? Normal for 5th to go. While you have trans case off do the bearings and seals. Particularly the output bearing. I have had to do one that failed, did it on jack stands. Had to run weld around the cup to shrink it enough to get it out. Cant get a puller in behind it.
Good luck with it ainsjac. A 4 post hoist would be handy hey.

a little away trip to see friends in need and kinda feeling poorly ....to drop of some ebay winnings and to ....visit the "family "

i hope all you guys "near and far" have a fantastic new year... full of surprises and good things

back home soonish ... i hope,,,,feeling well and trully "out of the loop "...

Did notice that you weren't around...I hope all is ok in your world.

Best wishes Chas , hope all goes ok .


Update: Tassie is burning , way south of me (i"m still in south aus ) feel for those affected , what a harsh land of contrasts we live in .

yeah saw that gordo ...sucha loss for all those folks ....nature can be verry crewl.

best wishes to all down there ....

thinking similar to you ol mate ...if there was just something i could contribute ...!

got a couple of things done before the heat of the day set in

did "nino's" fix to the steel brake tube through the tripple clamps ....it just seems to get noisier and noisier over time .

layered up the bottom and top sections of the rod with electrical tape ....not many turns requiresd as its a close fitt .should be able to test it today sometime .

bought myself a vice ..(yeah ok i do have several vices ) but the tool this time , first one i have actually owned over many years ...so made up those brackets for under fairing ...and they hold up really well ,restoring a solid feel to the whole fairing and little moovement at speed




this heat makes it so difficult to get motivated to finish off the work i had planned durring my break from work

...just 4 days left.

hmmm the tape fix to the brake tube ...was way better but not a full solve ,,,so released it again and wound more tape in there ....Plus a littl silicon sealant to tie it all together ....sounds ok so far

some more mods to the radiator area ....

the little wings on the side of the radiator creates a bit of a dam and seems to push more air through the radiator

i also installed a high side splitter ...to push some air up into the under tank area and to catch the air comming in to the radiator



stilll some work to do with the lines at the back of the mod , some integration with the fairing portion interface ..and some other things . like a grill material to finish off the look .fuel cooler etc ..total weight is but a mere few ounces (well less than a 1/4 killo )



a ride up to albys tommorrow for a test ...before the "karuah river rally"

and to drop off a loaned wheel for the sidecar ...care of our mate seanii

let me know when you leave!! Got to 41 here today!!!

That looks pretty good!
Does it hold the top fairing piece in place better?

charlie99 wrote:dang ......this morning i had trouble starting the beast ....well not actually starting... but a rough idle ....it seems to be getting worse, over the last few weeks .....quite disconcerting as it sounds like there is something wrong in the bottom end ....but i remember when a plug top fell off, same sort of sound ...
funny enough as the bike warms the effect seems to dissapear .(or not so noticeable ).

well i took the spark leads and plugs all apart to check if it was missing something .
i was thinking lucky i bought some coils off fleabay (they should arrive soon)

sure enough i cant get any measurement between no #1 plug to coil

Ohh really? I have said noise, was hoping its the timing chain, worried it might be bottom end. Going out now to measure the coils!

just an update fitted the lower fairing isolators (between top fairing and tank) with some nice big washers ...some 3/16 gutter bolts and chome dome nuts









did a bit of a cut and spray to the fairing ....yay !!! no more knee piercing fairing in the way ...good for us long legged fellas eh ! stan ?





lets see how it all goes



phew !!!...lost a few killos today in the humidity and heat

time to replace some fluids

Rendrag wrote:Ohh really? I have said noise, was hoping its the timing chain, worried it might be bottom end. Going out now to measure the coils!

Thankyou, maybe I don't need to do the timing chain afterall - seems the 2&3 coil is high resistance (at least > 20MOhm, which the meter I took out to test with will go to..). I assume it's still been firing as I'm sure it'd run like crap if it was only on cylinders 1&4?!

Looking good Charlie, fits in well with the overall look.
Cheers
Dave

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:That looks pretty good!
Does it hold the top fairing piece in place better?

the brackets that i made work really good seanii ...verry little moovement there ol mate (more moovement comming on the fairing tree at the front ) if thats a guide .

the things i made have full isolation from the fairing