Hello all, I have a problem with ignition lock. From time to time when try to start K 100, switch loose full contact and engine doesnt start.
My question is: Did anyone tried to fix ignition lock? Is it possible?

If you mean the ignition switch, operated by the key, yes. I had a similar problem a few years ago.

Disconnect battery first, remove tank so you can get to the wiring underneath.

When you take the ring with the labels (off, on etc.) off, you can see where to put the screwdriver down to release the clips that hold the key and switch mechanisms in.

When you have removed that and disconnected it from the wiring loom, you can separate the key part from the switch part. There is a very small screw from the side to release it.

You can then dismantle the switch part, but be very careful to see where things are, and to not lose small springs and other parts. Some people dismantle inside a plastic bag.

Mostly, you can clean and reassemble it, and all will be fine, but you never know for sure until you open it.

Bill

This may help:

http://www.kforum-tech.com/electrical/Cleaning_ignition_switch/Cleaning_switch.htm

Thanks, I cleaned it. Works perfectly.

nino wrote:Thanks, I cleaned it. Works perfectly.

Good to hear.
It was the same for me.

Bill

Have no key with my bike .. it was a police auction bike. Title is clean and I have registered it. Am now dealing with no key issue. Supposedly there is a 4 digit key code on the lock somewhere I can take to a locksmith and have them cut a new key. Will be digging it out tomorrow as I have no desire to replace the ignition, tank and helmet lock unnecessarily. Hopefully I will have no issue, just wondered if anyone here might know for sure where the code is? Will most likely clean lock as was indicated here, was thinking I might lubricate as well ... maybe with 3-in-one oil.

PS Thanks for any input

I would remove the switch and take it to a locksmith to have the key made.  That way you know it works before you leave their shop.  While you have it out, it will be an excellent time to clean it as well.

If you do end up replacing ignition key part, you can rekey the other locks to match. Gas tank lock is very easy to do.

Recommend you drill the Sidecar Paul hole in the gas tank cap.

I think I've read somewhere that you can get a key cut from the Vin number. Assuming it's still the original original, a safe bet I think.

I've had a few cut, under $10 each, much cheaper than some of these modern set ups.

Thanks, it was not ignition lock problem. I lost the contact under the tank in left big white connector. Better option

Hi nino,BMW no longer offer this key replacement service.Your best avenue is a good locksmith,not cheap i'm sure but still the best option.

Called my local BMW motorcycle dealer to see if I could get keys with VIN and they were not too helpful. I have a 66 Pontiac Star Chief that still has original keys with the key code stamped in them and was curious how the whole deal goes. Dealer did give me PN of the correct key blank but not key code. Emailed them my license registration and copy of my plate and had discussed issue with them as after conversation with a locksmith, he said he would need the key code not the VIN to cut the key. They said they would get back to me about the key code ten days ago. Watched a youtube video that demonstrated how to get a key made from the key code which is supposedly visible on the lock body somewhere. You pay 10/mo for an membership to an internet outfit and just punch in year make model and print out complete key cutting directions including correct blank. Dont know about chip keys, mine is not one. Seems a little cloak and dagger but I understand a possible desire to keep this below "common knowledge" threshold. Going down soon to did out lock. I just want to ride before summer's over. Locksmith said 50-60$ ... new ignition lock alone 250.00 from my dealer not including tank and helmet.

OEM key blanks are hardened steel.  You will have a hell of a time finding a locksmith who can cut a key from them.  Get a hardware store key blank from Ilco or one of the other guys.  There are threads here and at Motobrick.com that list the blank numbers that will work.

As I mentioned earlier, get the switch off the bike and take it to the locksmith.  It will be a lot less trouble in the long run.

The ignition key should/might also work for the tank, helmet and steering lock. If you're real lucky the key might be in the steering lock.

I spose $60 is a fair price without a key to cut from,  I'll guess it might be $70 for two keys.

Still waiting for my Clymer's on the bike, was supposed to be be here yesterday. Did not know there was a another steering lock will now go back and see if I can find to see if key in it THANKS. Managed to get mini-dash off and cup off back of ignition switch covering terminations without breaking it  Yay! looks like there is another circular thread-on maybe collar holding ignition switch in. Figured I better get other end disconnected so will wait for manual to help me get everything off without breaking things to access it. Got tank off partially looks like it might be fiberglass. Tried to get my avatar picture off Iphone but I am awful at trying to get pictures from phone to computer.

I've got an RT with two side bags and a top case, have a guess how many locks are on it.

keithnh wrote: Got tank off partially looks like it might be fiberglass.

It's aluminum. You're probably looking at insulation used to lessen engine heat transfer to the tank.

You want to join the AAA and get an RV+ membership.  I don't know if it will work in your situation, but they covered getting me a new key for my car a few years back when the original was stolen.

BTW, the ILCO blank is a V06.  Might be hard to find in a hardware store, but I think most locksmiths should have it.  I got mine at a real locksmith.

Mine's a Silca, NE 44, works well but it's a bit of a flat top (the bit you hold)

Found the steering lock THANKS AGAIN. Alas no key  Will wait for my Clymer's to hopefully help me disassemble front fairings and find other end of ignition cable. Is it just one plug or does it sprout wings?  I am member of AAA Plus ... will try to do without calling them, might use as last resort. Now I wonder if my R65 has a steering lock .. it has locking geeky beamer bags. Ilco V06 ... will remember, I have 2 blanks from Ebay already in route with correct beamer number. Yes was probably looking at insulation. This bike is straight with good rubber and inspection sticker 6/30/19 .. anxious to hear/learn the "brick" sound. R65 has a pleasant but not overbearing sound when its feeling its oats and you whack it. Not sure bike hasnt been repainted tank and rear section might be slightly different. Factory sticker edges under seat were done perfectly if so. Will repaint this color cause I really like it.

Ignition plug is under tank, right hand side. Four wires; red, green, grey and grey/blue.

Check the coverage on your AAA+.  I had to go to the RV+ in order to cover my bikes.  Definitely worthwhile.  It not only covers you, but if you are touring with others, some of the features covers them as well. 

I like the 200 mile towing when I am far from home.  It's comforting to know I can get me someplace where I should be able to work on the bike.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:If you do end up replacing ignition key part, you can rekey the other locks to match. Gas tank lock is very easy to do.

Recommend you drill the Sidecar Paul hole in the gas tank cap.

Take out the ignition and separate the key part from the other part, you can then use a screwdriver to then operate the ignition.

Have the little mini-dash off and tank loose but hadnt drained tank and removed fuel lines yet. Got the plastic 2 tooth cover off ignition switch but there appears to be a collar still holding ignition switch securely. There are numbers on the collar I dont believe are the key code, dont know whether collar twists or pops off was waiting for Clymers, it may not have this information, might need real service manual. Just dont want to destroy anything, everything seems tight and serviceable. Will have to wait for next week as am back to work today .. 2 weeks vacation starts next Sun so maybe I can get her cookin during that time. Will have key blanks and front blinkers as they have both been shipped for several days, Clymers for 12 days.

Got my complete rear section a few days ago, a slightly different style with 4 holes through fiberglass top vs 2 on mine. Same shape and perfect bottom section with signals, perfect taillight .. tho my tailight was not broken. Has a small sissy with seat pad and cargo rack, pad appears glued to sissy. Pad is black still soft, well worn but not ripped. Sissy is chrome but rusty, was thinking of blasting and either paint or powder black if I use it. Actually like the look of the low-profile black mini-cargo rack only on my broken rear section. Wondered if this is possible difference between RS and RT or something .. maybe just an option.

I might take out key section and operate, try to start bike to see if it clank-clank-clanks or purrs. Will wait for clymers to learn how to check all fluid levels and condition correctly. Make sure no meeces in the air box  Run a small amount of Mechanic in a Bottle in the first tank of super I put through it. I should order new plugs .. will do that right now. Oil and fuel filter too.

This is how you service the ignition switch. 

https://www.kforum-tech.com/electrical/Cleaning_ignition_switch/Cleaning_switch.htm

The switch itself is held in place with a set screw that appears to be installed with BMW's goddam red Loctite.  Clean out the head of the screw as much as possible, spotless is what you are aiming at, and then use a perfectly sized mini screwdriver that fits snugly in the slot to back the screw out. 

The goddam Loctite(Can you tell I've done this job before?) holds it so securely that you have to be careful not to F*** up the screw.  Once you have removed the switch, you can take the lock to a locksmith to have the key made. 

While you have the switch apart, clean the contacts.

And reassemble it with a small allen bolt (caphead) and not that goddam red loctite and grub screw.

Saw the little set screw ... I think that holds the switch to the "barrel", the lock is separate ... appears I can drop the switch out and plastic bag it without disconnecting other end of harness.

There were digits on the "barrel" bottom which I thought was a collar. They may include the key code as it appears the barrel, switch and lock are one complete assy most likely. Not sure how to separate the barrel from the mini-dash .. looks like 2 toothed legs (like the termination dust cover cap) play a part but seems like too tight and sealed for that to be all securing it. Maybe just take the whole mini-dash to locksmith minus switch part.

 I can check switch for continuity as I am ex-electronics tech. Just bought a parts Beckman DVM to replace the LCD on my back-in-the-day HD100. A Milwaukee inspection camera too .. was going to try and find code on switch without taking it out. Now Im broke  Pretty sure I can clean and get back together ok THANKS SO MUCH for the diagram. Trying to locate a source for "The Abyss" an incredibly good Russian style stout, Modelo Negra a pretty good second if you like dark beer Ill fix you up if we ever meet

Got my blanks and blinkers today, still no Clymers. Wondered about oil filters and plugs .. now that Im broke. I usually spoil my machines. See E3 plugs appear available K+N filters and Mobil 1 V-twin possibly as my HD sport project will be using it.

keithnh wrote:.. looks like 2 toothed legs (like the termination dust cover cap) play a part but seems like too tight and sealed for that to be all securing it.

Squeeze them toward each other gently then push the assembly downward from the top of the dash.

Laitch wrote:

keithnh wrote:.. looks like 2 toothed legs (like the termination dust cover cap) play a part but seems like too tight and sealed for that to be all securing it.

Squeeze them toward each other gently then push the assembly downward from the top of the dash.

I release them with small flat blade screwdrivers.  Stick them in as far as they will easily go and press the lock down in the dash pad.

If you are short on cash, Walmart has Quaker State Ultimate Durability 10w30 full synthetic oil in a 5qt jug for 18 bucks.  For film strength and high temperature stability this is one of the very best oils available.  It's an amazing value.  Carquest has an excellent filter #85348 for about $8.

Have you looked at the links on cleaning the switch that I posted?   It's an important preventive service item on a 30 year old bike.

Yes I did look at links THANK YOU again!! Just seemed like that switch was in dash very tightly so those 2 little legs securing it did not seem plausible. I will try myself on Monday or Tue. Is there a certain grease to use ? conductive or non? distributor lobe grease maybe. I will be cleaning and lubing before reassembly. Once I get apart straight to locksmith.

Dont know history of bike, was going to drain and if anything fishy looking fill crankcase with new flushing oil and spin for oil pressure with no plugs ... see if any chunks come out, check magnetic drain plug if it has one. Drain and scrutinize the flush oil. CarQuest sounds good for oil and filter. Is there a place for an oil pressure gage?

You can use the anti-corrosion stuff they sell for bulbs to lube the switch contacts.  Just a tiny bit is all you need.

Bought Mobil Polyrex EM grease for switch, a tube of it enough for 10 lifetimes in my case  Will just put on with a q-tip. Got ignition switch out without breaking legs off top or bottom cap. Found numbers on "black barrel" that houses lock and switch but locksmith said its not those for key code. Joined InstaCodes online to double check but am still trying to work their website. Had been trying to squeeze legs from the bottom with 2 small screwdrivers up the side channels but then switched over to top after I kept thinking "That whole things not going through the little dash" and got top cover off luckily without breaking it. Will try to remove grub screw today and bag switch. Any good source recommendations for a better "grub" screw?
Will take lock and barrel to locksmith, along with helmet lock .. tired of dealing with this. Unhappy with my treatment from local Beamer shop parts dept .. will be going there to see the individual in person shortly as I will be getting parts there. Hoping all 4 locks on bike will work with same key. Was hoping to get off gas tank lock and just take as well but unsure about drilling it. Hoping new key will just work it. My R65 has a different key for bags, no fork or gas tank lock and ignition and helmet are the same. The Neimann blanks I got work uncut in R65 ignition to only one position tho, didnt realize there are 5 positions in ignition switch until I read about it dealing with this issue, I only went all the way left or right driving R65. Supposedly the blanks working is so another Beamer driver can turn your lights off if you leave them on, quaint .

Got grub screw out and separated lock and switch .. nothing fell out but switch is in plastic bag now. Lock part to locksmith tomorrow. Managed to get gas tank lid off .. it was not locked .. had not realized you push the button to open. It goes to locksmith as well. Ordered a set of allen grub screws online m3-m8, hope for easier removal next time. Will clean switch before reassembly. Bike started right up and ran smoothly using screwdriver . Have not tried to ride yet. Will get key done, oil changed and all fluid levels verified before I do, then inspection sticker. Have to fix signals and possibly change fiber glass rear section .. it will look like a rat .. red and green till I get to painting replacement rear. Sounds healthy 

That's great news!  Getting the lock cylinder from the tank should make cutting a key a lot easier.  I was able to cut my own key with a couple of files using the tank lock.  Kind of ugly, but it workes.

Key coming from Germany (causing delay I had been upset over .. got over it) it will go in my safe as I have just had 2 made by locksmith. Wanted to add to this thread that I had no trouble with grub screw once I scraped most of red stuff out of hole and used my Milwaukee jewelers screwdriver the right size ... it has a little spinner on top .. about 4 inches long, as I anticipated a problem, once the tip was properly engaged I kept very firm downward hand pressure on it and first turned towards tightening (to possibly break seal) then the loosening direction always with firm downward force. Maybe I was lucky , maybe that will help somebody else I dont know, went to hardware store to find a better screw but didnt like what I found, none had shank on end so just reused the original.

Finally got my Clymers too though I dont see a dash indicator explanation. Are 7L and 1L lights in dash lower left an indication of fuel level?

Speedo seemed to be vastly incorrect as it was showing 20-25 mph I think I when doing 50-60 on Rt 28 judging from cars. Drove a curvy road for a few miles and speedo seemed to jump and start indicating correctly, I think problem possibly coming and going .. maybe something stuck from sitting?

Have you cleaned the speed pickup in the final drive.  They can get metal particles on the face which will interfere with the operation.

Going to take her on a shakedown cruise once I get her legal (inspection) and the fluids changed. Probably up I93 to Franconia notch .. 200 mi round trip .. I think she may just need to run some. Maybe see if I can put a sleeping bag, shelter half on the back and camp out for an evening for kicks. Would like to get my fuel system redone on my R65 and have a friend ride, she needs to be run too.