Hi I'm just wondering if anyone has some information on fitting a motoscope pro in conjunction with a maru labs bep3.0 unit? Is it possible at all?
From what I hear there's difficulty getting the speed etc to show?
If anyone has any details that would be great I'm struggling finding many answers I need. I see you can buy breakout box's for the motoscope but this doesn't cover all the inputs you need.
Many thanks

Following...

Yes, it's possible! I installed the BEP 3.0 and Motoscope Pro + Breakout Box B. I did this on my current 93 K1100 LT project. It might vary across K models though. For me, the speedo was the easy one. It was practially plug and play. It was then just a matter of calibrating the wheel circumference per the instructions. The speed readout was spot on as I was able to test with one illuminated speed signs that displays your current speed as you pass them on the road. I do plan on performing a total custom rewire of the bike at some point. I feel like the BEP might be just a kind of quick fix for now just to keep things going until I get to the rewire stage. It might not be needed at the end, but I'll figure that one out when I get there.

I had trouble with the tach. I purchased the Motogadget RPM sensor (https://motogadget.com/shop/en/accessories/sensors.html?___store=en/) in order to pickup a good signal. I'll eventually revisit to lessen the additional sensor and clean things up a bit. Another issue I'm experiencing is that it seems that it seems the coolant temp is reading far too high. I'm using the stock sensor at the moment. I'll be experimenting to verify.

As for the fuel gauge I needed to perform surgery. That is to say removal of the fuel sender assembly out of the tank, flip the board that is wrapped in a wire that a armature sweeps across and use fine grit sand paper to remove the coating. This process makes the stock fuel sensor compatible with modern digital fuel gauges. Trust me, it's a lot easier than it sounds. Here's the post on this forum: https://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender

But with the speedo, tach and fuel gauge working, I called it good enough to take on the road. The additional readouts I can add and adjust later.

Wow thanks for this info keep me updated I will be attempting this in the next few weeks myself

No problem! Happy to have a community such as this. I have gained a ton of knowledge through these forums, so I'm happy to return the favor. Trying not to hijack the topic, I'm actually in the midst of a another area of the project. Finished off the rear hoop with an inlaid LED taillight/turn signal combo. Putting the final touches on the custom fiberglass seat pan to hand it off to the upholster. Hopefully this week!

Mjones866, I'm hoping you are still reading these posts. I am converting a 1985 k100 and using the motoscope pro, bep 3.0 and breakoutbox b. How did you wire your fuel sensor? Did you hook the modified(post surgery fuel sensor) to the BAR on the BEP or to the "fuel" location on the breakout box? Similar question with oil and water temp.  Thankyou!

pwfree wrote:.Similar question with oil and water temp.  Thankyou!

 If you want oil pressure, then connect Brown/Green (Pin 11) from the OEM gauge to the Motoscope indicator you want to use to show too low oil pressure.  If you want oil temperature, then you'll have to buy and install an oil temperature sensor that fits in place of the oil pan drain plug.  You can then wire that directly to the Motoscope oil temperature input (if it has one).  

If you are after water temperature, then you;ll have to purchase a compatible water temperature sensor (BMW 62 16 1 459 270) which gets installed in the water pump.  You can then wire that sensor to your Motoscope water temp input (if it has one).  You'll have to ensure that the range of the sensor is compatible with the Motoscope input, and you'll have to ensure that the sensor is the correct physical size so that it does not interfere with the impeller in the pump.

Hey there @pwfree! I'm still here and working on my K project as I have time.

I actually ditched the BEP 3.0 early in my build since I didn't find it necessary. I found that the only reason I kept it on board was for the alternator exciter circuit which I wired a resistor in line and connected the exciter line to a +12v source on the M-Unit Blue. I have completely rewired the bike removed the bulk of the OEM electronics including the Motronic since the wiring of this post.


But to directly answer your question, you hook the fuel sensor signal (post the modification for digital gauges) to the Breakoutbox B's "FUEL" input. Check your model year's Clymer's for the following wiring colors. I'm not sure if '85 K100s came with a fuel switch or a variable sender. As I'm not as familiar with the wiring of the fuel sender (or switch) on a '85 K100. The below is based on my '93 K1100.


FUEL SENDER CONNECTOR FROM THE TANK:

Fuel Level Signal  ––– Yellow ---> Connect this to "FUEL" on the Breakoutbox B.
Low Fuel Indicator ––– White  ---> You could leave this wire floating or wire it to an external light. I have it floating.
+12v Power         ––– Black
Ground             ––– Brown


Keep in mind that you will need to calibrate the empty reading and the full reading manually in the Motoscope Pro settings per the manual.

Oil pressure input: The oil pressure switch which is located at the water pump and runs up through the channel from the HES sensor. This should be a single wire, connect this to the "OIL PRES." input at the BreakoutBox. 

Water Temp Sensor: I used the temp sensor at the water pump and ran the wire to "H20 TEMP." on the Breakoutbox B This is how it's set up OEM on the K lunchbox. The second H20 sensor at the top of the engine just under the radiator runs to the Motronic (I have this running to the Microsquirt). 

Then for the Motoscope Pro to get all these signals is the orange wire from the Motoscope to the "BUS" input at the Breakoutbox B.

H20 TEMP SIDE NOTE: I think that there might be a need to add a resistor(s) inline before the connection to the Motoscope Pro to adjust the temp reading accurately. But I haven't quite landed on if this is actually needed. Reason being, The temp sensor at the water pump gives a different reading than the water temp sensor that goes to the ECU (but accurate) from what I can tell viewing what the Microsquirt is reading. 

I don't know how far you are wanting to go in the wiring of your K, but I found that the BEP 3.0 was just taking up room for only for using the alternator charging circuit functionality. Since you are going with the Motoscope Pro, your gear indication is actually programmed once you are riding except for the neutral light. I've left my gear indicator/neutral switch wiring from the transmission floating until I build a logic circuit to detect ground when only in neutral. This isn't a priority for my project at the moment. 

I hope this helps! As robmack mentioned, you'll need to test to sure your sensors are compatible. I was lucky and everything seemed to work as expected.

Sorry if this was more info than you were expecting.

Thanks everyone for the inputs, I will let you know as I work it through!

Hello everyone,

I hope you will bé able to help me.

I have installés on m'y k1100 96's a motoscope pro with a blue m unit. 

Actually i have two issues :

The speedo and the neutral/Gear indicatif doesn t work.

I found a board for the neutral light but im not sûre it will resolve my Gear indicator.
About the speedo i don t want as possible, use the motoscope magnet.

Can you tell me what are my solutions ?

I understand the tgpi board is no long available and the BEP 3 IS toi expansive just to solve this 2 issues. 

One of the member on this thread succeed to dich the BEP.

I would like to know how please ?

Sorry about my english im french 

Thanks everyone

Hi,  I've resumed building the TGPI board so if you want one, please get in touch with me.

I actually did not have issues connecting the OEM speed sensor directly to the Motoscope Pro’s speed input. I believe it’s important that the Motoscope Pro and the OEM speed sensor share the same ground. But I’ll need to confirm this.

I haven’t come up with a good solution for the neutral indicator myself. I briefly thought about a simple transistor or relay circuit that switches to ground. Also, I think I have ran across an article of others dismantling the OEM lunchbox and extracted the board which provides the logic for the neutral switch.

Not sure if this an option for your build, but leon83 modified the gear indicator switch since he suspected it was already broken and only needed the neutral position, which is only what is needed for the Motoscope Pro. https://www.k100-forum.com/t12412-neutral-light-gear-position-switch-fix

Honestly I think I like the method of modifying the OEM neutral switch rather than adding an additional electronics appliance.

mjones866 wrote:I actually did not have issues connecting the OEM speed sensor directly to the Motoscope Pro’s speed input. I believe it’s important that the Motoscope Pro and the OEM speed sensor share the same ground. But I’ll need to confirm this.

I am quite surprised that you are having success directly connecting the OEM speed sensor to the gauge.  It is a variable reluctance sensor with two wires.  The output from the sensor is generally 1.5V - 2V. The Motoscope Pro manual specifically states: "Two wire hall sensors are not compatible with the motoscope PRO.".  Modern gauges like the Motoscope want at least +5V input which is why they supply a three wire sensor, one wire of which is connected to +12V to ensure that signal level. The OEM speed sensor board in the OEM cluster boosts the VR signal to +10V which is compatible.

I’ll take a hard look at the hardware that was send with my Motoscope Pro to verify if they sent a 3 wire speed sensor but I haven’t seen one. It may be an additional add on.  All I have are 2 wire and even in the Motoscope manuals they diagram a 2 wire sensor switching to ground it looks like.

I just tested my 93’ K1100. Now my OEM sensor might be going bad, so it’s not giving me a signal on the Motoscope when spinning the rear wheel. But when I remove it and touch a flat head screw driver to the magnet, I’m seeing a MPH speed reading on the Motoscope. And I can confirm that withy OEM 93 K1000 the OEM speed sensor is wired such that the OEM brown wire is grounded while the OEM yellow (signal) from the speed sensor wire is going straight to the Motoscope pro speed input.

Maybe there’s a speed sensor difference between the 96 and 93 I’m just not aware of. My apologies if the equipment has changed between these years.

mjones866 wrote:I actually did not have issues connecting the OEM speed sensor directly to the Motoscope Pro’s speed input. I believe it’s important that the Motoscope Pro and the OEM speed sensor share the same ground. But I’ll need to confirm this.

 I try connecting directly the oem speed sensor to the motoscope pro and also with the oem moto meter on the lauchbox (Ref : 62111459921) to amplify the signal sending 6 pulses per rotation at 5V.

Any of these 2 options worked...

Maybe you succeed with differents settings on the motoscope pro ?
In my case i set the rear tire circumference and the pulses per rotation (6) but maybe i need to try the "teach speed" option ?

robmack wrote:Hi,  I've resumed building the TGPI board so if you want one, please get in touch with me.

Hello,

The TGPI will fix the speed and gear indicator / Neutral light right ?

Correct.  It will do all that.
Features

• Reads the Transmission Gear Position Indicator switch on the back of the transmissionand displays the currently selected gear in a display
  
• Interface to several types of displays
  
• Senses neutral gear and enables the start circuit on the bike
  
• Active-low Neutral light is switched through an on-board transistor
  
• Reads the OEM road speed sensor and conditions the signal for use with an aftermarketspeedometer
  
• Auto cancels the turn signal indicators after the motorcycle has travelled a distance ofapproximately 200 meters.
  
• Accepts engine RPM input and conditions the signal to be compatible with aftermarketgauges that have a built-in tachometer
  

mjones866 wrote:Oil pressure input: The oil pressure switch which is located at the water pump and runs up through the channel from the HES sensor. This should be a single wire, connect this to the "OIL PRES." input at the BreakoutBox. 

 Hi @mjones866

About the oil pressure i have also an issue.

I connect the single wire to the oil pressure input of the breakout box but still have the red light blinking.

Any Idea ? Thanks

Is it blinking without the bike running? If this is the case, it will blink until it reads the operating pressure of the engine when it's started and running then the light will turn off. 

Also this single light will read warnings from the other sensors connected to the BreakoutBox. It's a global warning light indicator from the multiple sensor inputs.

To troubleshoot, if you have other sensors connected, disconnect all of them except for the sensor to the OIL PRES input. Then start the bike and the light should turn off once the pressure increases. If it still is throwing a warning, you may have a faulty oil pressure sensor or may need to clean the connections. It can get very grubby down below at the water/oil pump.

Assieron wrote:Hello everyone,

I hope you will bé able to help me.

I have installés on m'y k1100 96's a motoscope pro with a blue m unit. 

Actually i have two issues :

The speedo and the neutral/Gear indicatif doesn t work.

I found a board for the neutral light but im not sûre it will resolve my Gear indicator.
About the speedo i don t want as possible, use the motoscope magnet.

Can you tell me what are my solutions ?

I understand the tgpi board is no long available and the BEP 3 IS toi expansive just to solve this 2 issues. 

One of the member on this thread succeed to dich the BEP.

I would like to know how please ?

Sorry about my english im french 

Thanks everyone

Just verified that the OEM speed sensor at the final drive of my 93' K1100 registers a MPH signal back to the Motoscope Pro seen here: https://youtu.be/lul4cuB6tik

You will need a break out box for the motogadget pro you've got a choice of 2 the basic one is all you need for our bikes. I removed the existing gear indicator switch and replaced it with a ip rated microswitch mounted to a alloy plate neutral was all I wanted and as for the speedo I used the Reed switch supplied with the pro all worked out for me

mjones866 wrote:Is it blinking without the bike running? If this is the case, it will blink until it reads the operating pressure of the engine when it's started and running then the light will turn off. 

Also this single light will read warnings from the other sensors connected to the BreakoutBox. It's a global warning light indicator from the multiple sensor inputs.

I need to check if the blinking begins once the ignition on. But the other sensors connected might be the issue. I need to check if the oil temperature wire is connected. Thanks for the tips.

Jibe wrote:You will need a break out box for the motogadget pro you've got a choice of 2 the basic one is all you need for our bikes. I removed the existing gear indicator switch and replaced it with a ip rated microswitch mounted to a alloy plate neutral was all I wanted and as for the speedo I used the Reed switch supplied with the pro all worked out for me

You re talking about the magnet supplied with the motoscope pro Right ? I ll prefer not to use it cause i want to avoid to add more wires. But if it this the cheaper way i may do a compromise. Also what kind of microswitch are you talking about ? Do you have extra informations ?

mjones866 wrote:
Just verified that the OEM speed sensor at the final drive of my 93' K1100 registers a MPH signal back to the Motoscope Pro seen here: https://youtu.be/lul4cuB6tik

 Realy surprise !!!

Have you done the teach speed ? or use the IMpE ?

That speedo is all over the place. I've put the Reed switch to the front wheel and ran the cable along the brake line and it looks OK bearing in mind I'm very fussy. As for the microswitch any ip/ waterproof miniature switch work, good old ebay is place to look

Hello It is me again with my motogadget pro issues. I decided to install the motoscope magnet in ordre to have a functionnal speedometer.

The problem i got is when i try to teach the speed i have an error. is there any process to teach the speed ? what could be wrong ?

I also have the same message with the teach gear. Do you have any ideas ?

thanks for your support.

You can teach the speed sensor 2 ways, the best way is to input the the wheel/tyre size in the parameters, can can find the size by looking in the back of the book you got with the equipment. I didn't bother with the teach gear as it seems pointless.
https://youtu.be/cKZuhv2BBR4 watch this if you haven't all ready it's all very straightforward.

Thanks you for tour answer. I have already done all this settings. Just to be sure the motogadget oem speed sensor has 2 wires one to the white motoscope pro and the other to the earth ? No polarity needed ?

I don t understand why i have this error.

Perhaps the Reed switch is faulty or the gap between the switch and magnet is to big. I would check it out with a meter

Also the magnet must be mount on the disk or on the wheel ? Or both work ?

Jibe wrote:Perhaps the Reed switch is faulty or the gap between the switch and magnet is to big. I would check it out with a meter

I will check with a meter but i should have 2 mm top between the magnet and thé sensor.

The space between the magnet and the sensor must be as small as possible without the risk of having the sensor hit the magnet.  One good option is to drill a hole in the head of one of the disk mounting bolts and epoxy the magnet into the head of the bolt.  You can add as many magnets as possible.  More magnets means greater speed accuracy and consistency.  On my motorcycle I have replaced 6 bolts with magnetic ones.   Then place the sensor on the ABS bracket if space allows.  As for magnet placement (rim or brake), it doesn't matter from a functional perspective.  However leave thought to how you're going to secure the sensor from movement, wind, accidents bumps, etc. so that it doesn't move.

If the speedo is not reliably reading the sensor, it could be that the sensor is supposed to be mounted so that the side of the case gets swept by the magnet rather than the end of the sensor.  Ask Motogadet that question.  Most reed switches are meant to work that way.

You should program the Motogadget Pro variables:
- CIRC
- ImpW

If you have only one magnet installed, then ImpW = 1.  CIRC should be the circumference in cm, which in the neighbourhood of 2000 cm.  Those should get you into the ballpark.

robmack wrote:

If the speedo is not reliably reading the sensor, it could be that the sensor is supposed to be mounted so that the side of the case gets swept by the magnet rather than the end of the sensor.  Ask Motogadet that question.  Most reed switches are meant to work that way.

Robmack sorry but i don't understand this sentence for sure because of my english level sorry.

I tried again and it still doesn't work.

Please find a photo about my install of this magnet. We can see the sensor is not parallel with the magnet. Could it be wrong ?



What kind of test can i run for found what it is wrong ? Thanks for your help.

Below a photo of my bike  

by the way i have also setup the Impw and the circ as the manual ask.

The Reed switch is mounted OK and the magnets provided are strong. Use a meter on continuity, failing that a resistance test is the only true way to see if the Reed is working. Personally I would make sure the magnet and tip of the switch is equal to each other this is my set up on the front wheel notice I've drilled out the disc bolt and pressed the magnet in place.

Assieron wrote: We can see the sensor is not parallel with the magnet. Could it be wrong ?

You should place it parallel like the Motoscope drawing and discover if it will work after you do that.

According to the Motoscope documentation, the road speed sensor is a reed switch.  Normally a reed switch requires the magnet N-S poles to be parallel with the vanes in the switch, as shown in this diagram.


But Motoscope supplies a sensor that seems to need to be mounted 90° to that orientation. The Motoscope instructions specifically state: "The sensor tip has to be fastened parallel to the magnet. The distance between magnet and sensor should not exceed 4 mm and the sensor should not touch the magnet or any other moving parts.".  According to your picture this seems to be correct as @Jibe points out.

One way to test was suggested by @Jibe.  Put a continuity tester across  the two leads of the switch and rotate the front wheel so that the magnet passes back and forth across the sensor.  Each time the magnet is directly inline with the end of the sensor, you should get continuity.  It should be very reliable.  If not, then maybe the magnet is not strong enough or the orientation of the sensor with the magnet is wrong (it seems slightly askew according to the picture.

Where did you connect the sensor to ground?  Was it the ground wire on the Motoscope Pro itself or a ground on the frame. If it wasn't to the gauge ground, then maybe do that. I'm thinking that maybe there isn't good continuity between the sensor ground wire and the ground on the gauge.

thank you for all your answer

I run somes tests yesterday and finaly succeed to have a speed. I try with extra sensor i had directly connected to the ground and the motoscope pro. to be honest i don't know what was wrong but i move the bike pushing it, i have a speed.

I need to try running it and i let you know if it is ok.

About the teach gear option, it looks like a speed is needed to teach the gear. when the speed was displayed on the motoscope i saw 3 litles points, which is, i suppose the gear indicator.

Now the last think to test is the fuel indication, that i need to tech an check if everything is ok.

Well it is still not working. I try to put the reed the most parallel way with the magnet and no result.

I don't understand. i succeed to get a speed but only pushing the bike slowly. Once i try with more speed i got nothing.

It is not the magnet and not the reed. I try both. i have made a fixing lug for the reed.

When i try with the reed free it work's. I get 93km/h. But when a install it on the fixing lug and pushthe bike it doesn't work.

The ground is the same of the motoscope pro since i gathered all the ground of the bike below the fuel tank. DO you have any idea please ?

I am posting in french too because my english is not so well.

Voila cela ne fonctionne toujours pas. J'ai donc tordu un peu la patte de fixation afin que la sonde soit la plus parallèle possible à l'aimant et je n'ai rien. J'ai bien de la continuité quand je teste avec mon testeur mais le motoscope pro n'affiche rien. J'arrive à avoir de la vitesse seulement dans ces 2 cas la :

Quand je libère (retire la sonde de la patte) et que je teste avec un aimant (jarrive à monter à 93km/h)
Quand je pousse doucement la moto mais au dessus de 5 km/h je n'ai plus rien.

J'ai testé l'aimant et la sonde. Les deux fonctionnent.

Je ne comprends pas ce qui ne va pas sachant que c'est censé être simple comme installation.

Avez vous une idée svp ?

No one can help me ?

I try raising the bike to be able to spin the wheel manualy.

I can have a speed when i spin the wheel slowly but once i go faster the motoscope can't display a speed.

I try another speed sensor and is the same.

Another point my bmw K1100 Oem speed sensor is a 2 wires sensor. The motogadget manual say i can use the aux 2 input for the signal wire and the other one to the ground. but on the motoscope pro manual it says a 2 wires oem speed sensors is not compatible with the motoscope pro. Can i use my oem speed sensor ?

Thanks

Hello Everyone,

It is me again  

I finaly suceed to have a speedometer working. I have to install the oem speedo at the front of the bike. It's not the prettiest but it's work well now.

The last thing to config is the Fuel gauge. the motoscope read as a fuel level 127 empty or full. But when i test with a ohmmeter i have as empty fuel 0.5 ohm and 128 ohm when full.

Can you tell me why the motoscope is not able to read the good value ?

FYI i plug the yellow wire to the fuel pin to the breakout box. Also i returned the bord og the fuel sender as told on this topic : https://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender

thanks for your help