I am slowly turning the corner on the tear down and reconstruction of my lovely K100 and I have a few questions for you all.  I don't quite know how I got so lucky but I managed to get an engine and transmission for $100.  I spent slightly more on gas to run out and get it.  It was built in the fall of 1984, a few months before mine.  Were the black covers an option?  My own K came with the unpainted covers and I have swapped them.


The red O-ring came out of the engine in two places.  The black O-ring is from the gasket and seal kit I purchased from Moto-Bins.  Are they the same?  And finally, the grommet also came in the gasket kit but I haven't found it yet on the engine.  Where should it go?

Thankfully it snowed a little here again this morning so I don't feel so terrible about not being back on the road.  I really underestimated how much time would be spent cleaning parts......

First K With black covers was the SE model in -86.

Red o-rings (silicone rubber) is used in coolant passages,
if the black is the same...you must ask motobins.

The grommet looks familiar......
What first drops in to my mind ...is where the brake hose
and pipe is connected together at the swingarm.

Thanks Inge!  The covers were either swapped out after the fact or were painted then.  I think you might be right about the grommet.  I'll check it against my existing brake line one.  If that is the case then I suspect it found its way into the kit unintentionally 

Can't' tell the size, but it could be for the cable from the transmission gear position indicator switch where it comes up through the transmission case.

Point-Seven-five wrote:it could be for the cable from the transmission gear position indicator switch where it comes up through the transmission case.

That grommet have a much smaller inner dia relative to the outer dia.

The black O-ring is for the coolant seal - I repaired the pump on a K1100LT about eighteen months back and the O-ring for that was black. The overhaul kit and bits came from Motorworks.

As usual Inge is right about the grommet. It fits over the rear brake hose and pushes into the cast 'fork' just forward of the bevel drive.

Well unfortunately the answer so far is "none of the above".  



For the first time ever I have been fairly methodical in bagging and documenting everything that I have removed and I can't see where I may have missed installing this grommet.  I think there is every possibility that it is just an extra, possibly non-K, part that made its way into the Moto-Bins kit.  Pity it wasn't a something that I really need.

Rear of the gas tank grommet? (Not applicable to an 85 though.)

well maybe not so far off Duck

could it be the tank to sidecover retainer grommet

its really hard to judge without a dimensional comparison  for size internal and external diameters

cheers

Both the grommet for the fuel tank and the sidecovers have a much more
narrow distance between the flanges.
And the inner flange have a smaller dia which is more rounded than the
outer flange.

I finally got round to measuring that grommet last night.  It is:  25mm diameter overall; the grooved part is 18mm; the center hole is 12mm and it is about 10mm thick.  It may or may not belong on the bike but I was just curious about it.

I have a ground wire about 26" long that I labelled 'ICU ground' and I can't for the life of me figure out where it goes back on.  I had taken tons of photos on my phone, most of which I then emailed to myself.  There were a bunch that I hadn't sent thinking they were all safe on the iCloud anyway and, come January 1, my phone reset itself and ditched the photos and hadn't been storing them (well they might be there but I'm too dense to have figured that out yet).

Could it be the ground wire that goes from the front brake master cylinder to the ground point under the tank?

That wire will be the ground wire and the grommet could be from one of the fairing mounts

robmack wrote:Could it be the ground wire that goes from the front brake master cylinder to the ground point under the tank?

That's my guess too.

I have seen a wire like that connecting the ground point on the frame to the ground point on the transmission.  It ties the frame directly to the battery negative by way of the battery ground cable that is connected at the transmission.

Point-Seven-five wrote:I have seen a wire like that connecting the ground point on the frame to the ground point on the transmission.  It ties the frame directly to the battery negative by way of the battery ground cable that is connected at the transmission.

Somebody may have added that. I've taken a bunch of these bikes apart and never seen that so I don't think the factory ever did that.

The wire to the master cylinder was the subject of a recall about 85 I think where the switch block could develop a fault situation and would earth through the throttle cable and heat up the Teflon liner and make the throttle very stiff and in some cases freeze it completely so that wire was added to give a better earth path and save the throttle cable. I don't know what the fault condition was or if it was rectified.

I may be wrong but I think it had something to do with grounding the throttle perch on K100s since the handlebars are rubber mounted.  Since they're so smooth, K75 handlebars aren't rubber mounted and the perch is grounded through the handlebars so the same wire wasn't needed on K75s.

Easy check: measure the ID of the ring terminal. If it's 4mm, it belongs to the throttle block.

5mm dia. on the small end 7mm dia. on the larger end.  The white cloth tape has 3 303 023 printed on it.  There may be more numbers and the '0' of the 023 could be a 6 but it is too hard to make out.  When I removed it I specifically marked it 'ICU ground' though I just don't recall where or what it attached to.

If it isn't readily identifiable and locatable would it be safe to leave it off?

Thanks all..

RealOEM is your best friend:

Part 11 = 61122303023
Wire between right hand switch cluster and under tank frame ground

Thanks Rob - just beat me to it!

Yep, I do agree.  I have been looking at some of the photos I still have and the couple that show the main ground on the frame were taken at an angle that only showed the brown wires.  I had one from a different angle and there in behind was the black casing.  

I doubt that I would have made the connection between the cable in the drawing and the one I have though.  The difference in terminations and the difference in apparent length would have thrown me off, so thank you everyone for sharing what you know.

As much as I regret not being on the road at the moment I am really happy with learning as much as I am.

Cheers, Andrew

Revel in the fact you are getting your bike into better condition than it has been in for many years.  Time spent now is good karma that will serve you well when you're far from home.

Thanks!  That's the plan in the end - 'to chase horizons'.  Now just into my second year of ownership/Kpox I believe I have discovered what many of you have figured out already, owning a fully insured and licensed second 'parts' bike.  Still thinking about selling from the fleet Point-Seven-Five?  I may have to look into vehicle importing if you are....

The fleet has been reduced to a manageable number with the recent sale of Moby Brick to a friend.

So I've got the center/side stand assembly reinstalled but I'm having a hell of a time getting the spring on the side stand back in properly.

#8 here in this image.  Is there a trick?  Is partial disassembly required?  I don't mind this feature but I'm thinking it may often get left off because it is such a pain.  

And lets be honest, I haven't even be able to, nor taken the time, to figure out how to insert photos properly so it should come as no surprise that the spring is giving me grief.  

Pull the bottom of 1 to the rear.

Put the spring on.

Push the bottom of 1 forward and put the special nut on.

Woodie wrote:And lets be honest, I haven't even be able to, nor taken the time, to figure out how to insert photos properly so it should come as no surprise that the spring is giving me grief. 

Don't be so hard on yourself. Your photo of the giant millipede in post #11 is exemplary!

"Pull the bottom of 1 to the rear.

Put the spring on.

Push the bottom of 1 forward and put the special nut on."




Well that was !@#$%^&*(())%%$#$#ing easy!!  That just wasn't going to happen at 11 pm last night.  Thanks Duck!


And thanks Laitch for supporting my photographic art.  You've inspired me to call it 'art' when it is bad and incomprehensible....(says the father of an artist who is actually really good).


And now off to the shop again to put more parts back on my wonderful early K....

Finally, finally, finally I have a rideable bike again.  When it came time to fire it up I held my breath, prayed for the best and hit the start button three times to pressurise the system.  On the third pulse I heard it fire and on the fourth it started and ran.  Last year I always had to use the throttle advance to get it started from cold.  Nothing fell off while out on the first ride (something my wife didn't think possible) and no, I don't have a bunch of unexplained extra parts sitting in a pile.  I was even able to figure out that the extra grommet I was shipped was for the front brake line.  I'll be syncing the throttle bodies tomorrow and then trying to pound on some miles to try and recover the lost two months of riding.

I just wanted to thank everyone on this forum for being such a phenomenal knowledge base.  Without this I'd still be scratching my head and trying to muddle my way through 63 bags of parts 

Need some help, again.....

For two weeks I had been riding the bike and everything was great except for a really small oil leak that showed up only when it was on the side stand.  Without getting under the bike and looking closely I figured that it was the water/oil pump that I had removed but reinstalled without doing anything to it.  I had a rebuild kit so I popped the pump off and put in new seals.  At the same time I also discovered that the tiny leak was a gap in the RTV gasket sealing the timing chain cover.

Rebuilt pump duly back on the bike, I now had a major coolant leak out of the weep hole. I attributed this to a botched first time install of the spring seal.  Paid through the nose for a new seal from a dealer and got this installed much more carefully and with a different procedure.  Pump went back on and still I have the coolant leak out of the weep hole.  I've removed the pump again and popped out the shaft and can't for the life of me see what is wrong with the spring seal.

Could it be the seal is not seated properly?  Anything else?

Thanks, Woodie

Did you press the seal in using a tube to fit on the flange, any other way and it could well be damaged.
Are you using the old cast impeller because that will break the ceramic part of the seal when you tighten the bolt.

I used a smaller diameter socket to to press the higher part of the seal down the shaft until the flange met the housing.  Then I switched to a larger diameter socket to seat the flange. I have the new stainless impeller.

One other thing is have you removed all of the old seal as it can often be easily overlooked and is not seen too readily that it is still is there.

Do the oil seal first then seat the coolant seal before you draw the shaft through. Draw the shaft through by using a long bolt and heavy washer then change to a shorter bolt then finally use the impeller and alloy spacer and OEM bolt to get it to the correct position. It should be easy to turn but not able to spin it by hand. If it is tight the ceramic part will be destroyed as soon as you start the engine.

I removed the spring seal again and will get ready to get another and put it in.  If I were buying it in jolly olde England it would cost me about $20 CDN.  Here in the colonies I get billed $47.    If the third time proves to be a charm then I guess it will still have been cheaper than getting a shop to do it.

Two questions though:  what is the purpose of the spring and how does the stainless collar actually seal against the shaft?  It isn't all that apparent to me how the coolant is prevented from moving into the space between the seals and then on down the weep hole.

Thanks!

The spring gives tension to the two ceramic surfaces to make the seal and the shaft to seal seal is due to the press fit