Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Hello to all the wise
I have a couple of question about a 2004 k1200 GT that for sale with 120,000km
What should i be looking for
These are the faults that i could see at a quick glance
1 is the gearbox meant to be very loud rattling sound at idle
2 is the ABS light all ways flashing ? About 3km ride and still flashing
3 just had aa 120 thou services and i rung the mechanic because i did not know they worked on BM but they had no services history no spline services history
4 plastic disconnects under tank
5 elec screen not working
6 rear disk thin
8 oil from somewhers on the gear shift ?
9 front left side disk warm right side dead cold
I have a K1200RS 2002, owned it from new and have covered 178,000 km's. I know this bike inside and out.
1 The gearbox rattle is affectionately known as the 'box-O-rocks'. It is the result of shim wear on the output shaft. It can be re shimmed and there is a member on I-BMW forum who has detailed this very well. Nearly all do it to varying degrees.
2 Integral ABS, I-ABS or 3rd gen ABS. This is what you have, and it is linked to a very complex and over engineered braking system that incorporates two servo assist pumps to dramatically increase calliper brake pad pressure. I love the system and have lived with it for nearly 16 years, but the system takes a heap of maintenance on a yearly basis to keep it running. Neglect through lack of use is the downfall of these braking systems. The I-ABS module is NOT rebuildable at this stage although Module Master in the USA has been promising for years that they are close...
So, starting sequence is important and if this has not been explained then issues can occur.
First, when you turn the ignition on, NO brakes are to be applied. NOT even lightly as the computer does a test sequence of the circuits. This first stage is complete when the ABS or Brake Failure light flashing reduces from a fast to a slow sequence. (If you have applied the brakes WHEN starting the motor, the computer cannot complete its first check and the flashing ABS light will not reset to the slower rate).
Once the ABS light has slowed its flashing rate you can start the engine and apply brakes (in either sequence) Note also that the general warning light will go out when the ABS flashing sequence goes from fast to slow. Once you start moving the computer will complete the final check and the ABS/Brake Failure light will go out. This happens at about 3 mph. Applying the brakes does NOT turn the flashing off as it does on earlier models.
So, one of the most common causes for continued fast flashing ABS light is simply a sensor in either the front or rear ABS reservoir is low. The two reservoirs are contained in a single unit just below the seat on the right hand side. Note, the fluid level in the front master cylinder at the brake lever does NOT change with pad wear. As I mentioned the system is totally over engineered with completely separate braking circuits. One circuit for the wheels and another for the ABS to front and bake brake levers. On top of all this, the front brake is linked to the back brake and varies from 50/50% to 95/05% depending on braking force and centre of effort on the bike. IE the harder the braking the more pressure is applied to the font and less to the rear. At a walking pace it is 50/50.
When you took it for a ride did the brakes seem strong with no apparent lack of brakes? Probably this is the case as you would have mentioned it. Again this points to low brake fluid. Another much more serious cause is failure of the module which leads to residual braking function. This means the power assist is inoperative and while the brakes will still work, they require a lot of squeeze to make it happen.
3 Splines are not as big an issue as they are in 100/1100's but still need to be looked after. Service history on these bike is everything and I would not consider a purchase of one of these bikes without it. The ABS module will set you back USD2800.00 plus freight and fitting.
4 Plastic QD's are a no no. Change them out for stainless asap as the the oem plastic items do fail which at best will leave a permanent fuel stain on the crank cover, and at worst....
5 Whatever, may not be hard or expensive to fix as there will be plenty of secondhand spares available now.
6 Noted for this happening over time. PO has not learned to use the gearbox instead of the brakes. Rear brake should only be used for trailing into corners if you've gone in a bit hot, or tight manoeuvring when parking etc, and when coming to a standstill at traffic lights etc.
8 This needs to be investigated carefully. There is no weep hole in the bottom of the bell housing as there is on earlier K's. Known leaks are the engine output seal and/or O-ring. The O-ring is a known failure on all K's as BMW used a shitty 1.50 O-ring instead of Viton. Also known to fail is the clutch slave cylinder on the back of the tranny. Both this and the O-ring/engine output seal if not attended to will eventually leak fluid onto the clutch. It's a dry clutch so the consequences are not good. Also check behind the lower rubber boot at the final drive. If there is oil in there, check to see if it has travelled down the swing arm - tranny output seal, or from the pinion seal in the FD. Tranny output seal is easier to fix.
9 Sounds like the front callipers need the pistons pulled and probably a seal kit. DO NOT split the callipers. This can be done on earlier K callipers but there is no seal kit available for these (as far a I know). Brake lines are a known fail and should be replaced with stainless. HEL brakes of the UK have an outlet in Aussie and a great online build your own web page. I used it for my K100RS although I went with Spieglers from the USA on my K12.
Matthew, these are a fantastic motorcycle and I've loved every moment of ownership, although we nearly parted company over suspension woes. At about 80,000km's the oem shocks will be toast and Ohlins or Wilbers are the go. I went with Ohlins and it was the single best upgrade I ever did.
So, a lot to consider and what I hope I've done is arm you with the knowledge to be able to pick a goodie. My bike has never let me down however it takes a fair amount of annual servicing, of which I have recorded EVERY cent spent and EVERY maintenance task from day one.
Good luck, and I am more than happy to help in any way I can should you need any advice.
K1200 GT questions Wed Feb 28, 2018 4:51 am
