Hey Guys,

I was really curious if this would be possible because I want to increase the width of my rear rim and tyre. I have seen that the BMW Gatermann K101 achieved it however I don't know if its a direct fit or if it is too complicated. I also know there is enough room to fit a larger tyre and rim anyway but I want to increase it further, for example I know that a rim from a BMW r1150gs would fit.

Thanks,
DBRMN

If you want to fit a paralever rear end you would need the matching gearbox as it has the casting to carry the actual paralever lower link arm.
I think I'm correct in saying that an R series rear wheel doesn't fit because it has the wrong offset. If I'm wrong on this I'm sure I'll get jumped upon!

I could probably help you out with the parts as I'm scaling down my collection of K spares because they don't go wrong. Famous last words.

Thank you for your reply, so are you saying that it would be too much effort and money for not enough reward? 

Also I'm not entirely sure but if you look at the 'BMW Gatermann k100' they  fitted a r1150gs rear rim, however I believe they had to but a k1100 gearbox and swingarm on:

http://impuls.xyz/portfolio/k101-gatermann/

Is this too expensive or hard? Would the k1100 gearbox fit straight onto my k100 engine block?

Thanks,
Alex

Bolt up replacement from the bell housing back.  See:

http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/2013/09/paralever-conversion.html


R1100GS wheels are a bit more work but quite possible:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua2OaaCFhkk

Classic K1200 transmission and drivetrain is also possible with even more work (6-speed, hydraulic clutch).

As the man said wearing the orthopedic shoes "I stand corrected" about the wheel but I'm sure that the cast R1100 rears don't fit.

16 valve gearboxes bolt straight on. PM me and I'll be glad to sort you out for a reasonable cost

The first article you attached is amazing I love how detailed it is. I need to have a thorough read through it before I make a decision.

But if I do that second video is so helpful! Thank you so much!

robmack wrote:
Classic K1200 transmission and drivetrain is also possible with even more work (6-speed, hydraulic clutch).

I'm working my way round to this mod, I'm just struggling to find time with many other projects on the go.

Thank you so much I'll have to think about it but I'll get back to you if I need any parts!

Motorbike Mike wrote:

robmack wrote:
Classic K1200 transmission and drivetrain is also possible with even more work (6-speed, hydraulic clutch).

I'm working my way round to this mod, I'm just struggling to find time with many other projects on the go.

I've seen it in the flesh on a K75 engine, working.

robmack wrote:

Motorbike Mike wrote:

robmack wrote:
Classic K1200 transmission and drivetrain is also possible with even more work (6-speed, hydraulic clutch).

I'm working my way round to this mod, I'm just struggling to find time with many other projects on the go.

I've seen it in the flesh on a K75 engine, working.

STOP!  I don't have the time right now.

You're a bad influence.

Here's some more info on switching from mono to paralever:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/mono2para/mono2para.htm

Thank you so much, got a lot of reading and thinking to do!

I put an R1150 rear wheel in (on a Paralever) after cutting off the disk mounts from the Spokes and machining 13mm of the centre to correct the offset. Only because the wheel had cost me nothing.

Al

Keep in mind the Monolever to Paralever conversion will increase your wheelbase about 50mm, which may be why the engineers 'flattened' the triple clamps as compared to the K75/K100-8V triple tree. This made the wheelbase just about equal. My Big Block uses Paralever, and a K1200RS 5" wheel with a 170/60ZR17 tyre. The only 'mod' was to remove the 2mm thick shim. The tyre rides about dead centre.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Keep in mind the Monolever to Paralever conversion will increase your wheelbase about 50mm, which may be why the engineers 'flattened' the triple clamps as compared to the K75/K100-8V triple tree. This made the wheelbase just about equal. My Big Block uses Paralever, and a K1200RS 5" wheel with a 170/60ZR17 tyre. The only 'mod' was to remove the 2mm thick shim. The tyre rides about dead centre.

That's correct and the reason why I don't use the paralever set on this. I wanted it as short as possible.

I have a desire to try the 'flatter' triple clamps from a K11/K100-16V on a bog stock K100 without fitting the Paralever, and its accompanying length, to see how the steering increases in sharpness and agility, steering damper included, of course. I recall several years ago we had a know-all-naysayer on the forum from So Cal who warned it'd cause a tankslapper of North Korea v. America proportions.

Two Wheels Better wrote:I have a desire to try the 'flatter' triple clamps from a K11/K100-16V on a bog stock K100 without fitting the Paralever, and its accompanying length, to see how the steering increases in sharpness and agility, steering damper included, of course. I recall several years ago we had a know-all-naysayer on the forum from So Cal who warned it'd cause a tankslapper of North Korea v. America proportions.

Mine never tank slaps even though I've dropped the forks through the clamps and run a longer paralever Wilbers shock.
It sounds to me like you need to give it a go.

Two Wheels Better wrote:I have a desire to try the 'flatter' triple clamps from a K11/K100-16V on a bog stock K100 without fitting the Paralever, and its accompanying length, to see how the steering increases in sharpness and agility, steering damper included, of course. I recall several years ago we had a know-all-naysayer on the forum from So Cal who warned it'd cause a tankslapper of North Korea v. America proportions.

The steering damper used on the early 4Vs (K100RS4V and K1) was eliminated when the K1100s came out even though the K1100RS essentially has the same geometry as the K100RS4V.  (But the mounts are still there on a K1100RS so one can retrofit a damper to the K1100RS if one is so inclined.)

I've puts lots and lots of miles on every K model and the only tankslapper I've ever had was on a stock 90 K75RT.  Never had one at any other time so that one instance must have been a "perfect storm" of unfriendly physics.

duck wrote:The steering damper used on the early 4Vs (K100RS4V and K1) was eliminated when the K1100s came out even though the K1100RS essentially has the same geometry as the K100RS4V.  (But the mounts are still there on a K1100RS so one can retrofit a damper to the K1100RS if one is so inclined.)

The trouble with the stock damper when you rig up a 'naked' K is that one of the mounts is gone when you remove the fairing. I'm sorting out an alternate bracket with my machinist mate now.

Motorbike Mike wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:Keep in mind the Monolever to Paralever conversion will increase your wheelbase about 50mm, which may be why the engineers 'flattened' the triple clamps as compared to the K75/K100-8V triple tree. This made the wheelbase just about equal. My Big Block uses Paralever, and a K1200RS 5" wheel with a 170/60ZR17 tyre. The only 'mod' was to remove the 2mm thick shim. The tyre rides about dead centre.

That's correct and the reason why I don't use the paralever set on this. I wanted it as short as possible.

On this machine, are you using the later Marzocchi forks?

Yep, since the front mount is on the RS main fairing bracket.

I really don't think it's necessary and is just extra weight (just IMHO) as evidenced by the fact that they got rid of it on the K1100RS and I've never heard of anyone getting tankslapped on one of those.

My K75 Frankenbrick has a K1100 front end.  Since the K11 steering stem diameter is narrower than a K75's the fluid block damper is just unused dead weight.  The only issue that has caused me was that the front end used to be a little wobbly at really low speeds. (Like creeping up at a stop sign behind other cars.)  However, that went away when I switched the bike to radials.  Since it's got a K1100RS fairing I could install a one of the steering dampers I have on hand from parts bikes but I've ridden that bike pretty hard and have yet to see the need for one.

Two Wheels Better wrote:

Motorbike Mike wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:Keep in mind the Monolever to Paralever conversion will increase your wheelbase about 50mm, which may be why the engineers 'flattened' the triple clamps as compared to the K75/K100-8V triple tree. This made the wheelbase just about equal. My Big Block uses Paralever, and a K1200RS 5" wheel with a 170/60ZR17 tyre. The only 'mod' was to remove the 2mm thick shim. The tyre rides about dead centre.

That's correct and the reason why I don't use the paralever set on this. I wanted it as short as possible.

On this machine, are you using the later Marzocchi forks?

Yes, they’re off a K100 16v and have Racetech internals.

duck wrote:My K75 Frankenbrick has a K1100 front end.  Since the K11 steering stem diameter is narrower than a K75's the fluid block damper is just unused dead weight.  The only issue that has caused me was that the front end used to be a little wobbly at really low speeds. (Like creeping up at a stop sign behind other cars.)  However, that went away when I switched the bike to radials.  Since it's got a K1100RS fairing I could install a one of the steering dampers I have on hand from parts bikes but I've ridden that bike pretty hard and have yet to see the need for one.

Agree with Duck on this. I've fitted a K1004V front end to my 87 K75. I also lost the fluid block damper but never missed it since the steering is stable at all speeds, including low speed maneuvering. I run T30 radials front and back which probably accounts for the stable front end like Duck espouses upon.

My Big Block has Marzocchi forks from a K100-16V on it, with Paralever, but with a 120/60ZR17 front tyre. It matters little whether I push the forks tubes a little bit up or a smidge down in the trees, what length I set my HyperPro rear shockie to (of 15mm adjustment), or whether I do or don't death grip the wide ProTaper 'bars, it's a bit skittish. The sticky front Pirelli's tyre pressure has been set from between 32 to 40 PSI, the fork oil I've tried has been 5W & 10W - settled on the former.

The 'nervousness' might be a measure of seriously reduced weight over the front end as compared to a more planted, due to weight, 'stock' machine. My machinist mate and I had a good squiz at the damper and potential mount points this arvo and there's not much room for the original equipment unit due to access to a sturdy frame point. I might adapt a Scotts or GPR tension unit under the handlebars.

Ha ha, I'd better say it before someone else does...maybe it's because I've got over 40 years under me of primarily riding bikes with up to and over a 150cm (57-60+") wheelbase! When they handle like they're s'posed to, they feel funny.