duck wrote:If you change the filter every time you change the oil then there really is no need to ever remove the oil drain plug.
Good point but there is no leak from the drain plug.
Laitch wrote: The chance of two leaks is 50:50.
Ha, ha actually very funny. My life in a nutshell. You know Muphys law.
Laitch A crush washer is a washer that provides tension to prevent loosening of the bolt.
Ok that would be a lock ring in my part of the world but I get why it is called "crush" now I know what it is.
LaitchIf that oil pan bolt were on my bike and I thought it was loose, I'd just tighten it more. Clean the oil off all the surfaces then dust them all with baby powder—if there are any babies nearby. That might help locate the leak's source.
Well I didn't think it was loose until Olaf told me
I tightened it about 1/8-1/4 turn (and some of the other as well). A tourgue how ever would have "told" me if it was loose.
I have a two year old grandson, but he is passed baby powder (but nice point). How ever I don't think the leak is present when the bike is just parked. It "turns up after a hard ride". Which is guess would be common for many rider. So baby powder might fly of food before it will show the leak. But I'm open for any suggestions.
LaitchIf you have a minor o-ring or minor main seal oil leak, oil slowly will seep down the wall of the intermediate housing and exit from the weep hole. If a leak becomes a major leak, it might migrate to the clutch disk also, causing the clutch to slip. You have asserted that the oil level is appropriate so overfilling isn't causing a leak at this location.
I'm thinking I'm f..... and eventually will have to spend $1.000 our more at a shop
LaitchCruise in 4th or 5th gear then quickly give the bike full throttle. If ground speed doesn't increase for a moment but engine speed does, the clutch is probably starting to slip. An oil leak might cause that; a poorly adjusted clutch or severely worn clutch disc can also cause that.
I've always had the feeling that when I give full throttle in 5th gear the bike doesn't react promptly but always thought it was because a "shift down" was required.
So actually it might be due to a poorly adjusted clutch or oil in the clutch. Boy I need someone like you yo take my bike for at ride.
LaitchIf clutch adjustment and disc wear are ok but the clutch slips momentarily during the test conditions, it is likely that oil is starting to affect the friction disc's grip. You can ride for thousands of miles by accommodating your riding style to that. I wouldn't worry about it. Eventually, the o-ring, main seal or friction disc will be replaced but not necessarily all three. Some people replace all three in a bid for their bike's immortality.
I'm still not sure if it is clutch slipping or me just not down shifting before I want a fast pass of a car driving in front of me.
So I shouldn't worry until I can actually see oil use gets high??
Laitch Many of us accept and understand that particular condition is probably going to happen sooner or later. When replacing the o-ring or seal, replacing the clutch push rod boot is often done too, along with a few other housekeeping operations. Like Olaf indicates, some of us might pass main seal replacement to somebody else. You are not at that point yet.
Oh boy I sure don't hope. Will cost a million here.
LaitchRight now, enjoy riding the bike and leave fear behind.
And live with oil on my garage floor.
Seriously with all the great information you have given me I'm fearing I'm close to the point when I need the o-rings you mention, replaced.
PS thought I had the quoting cowered but somewhere I f..... up. Sorry but I'm sure you can tell where you end and start