Hello, so you all know me from the introduction thread of Hallo! New owner here... located Here... 

Anyway, I got the bike, got it into the garage and started doing my dismantling. 

I noticed 2 lines were cracked and I was hoping you would help me identify them, along with some other Misc. pictures see if you can identify anything else that might be dead?

Cracked tubes:
(let me know if you have issues looking at these, Photobucket is currently offline)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeajVwUUtXODJvWjg/view?usp=sharing
Close up:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeYnpWc0pseVFETDQ/view?usp=sharing

also:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeTUJ3MzZwWGpEdnc/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeTTdIbmdjVnNfY3c/view?usp=sharing

General Album:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BebGZ2bk4xMm5hRUE&usp=sharing

Thanks. 

I dont know much about this but, im going to guess that was a fuel line...? Also what is under the seat above the battery?

The first pipe is some fuel hose, due to the bike being injection there is a lot more than that (goes down to a pressure regulator behind the throttle bodies, then round to the solid rail in front of the throttle bodies, then back up to the tank) and it all usually needs replacing. The stamps/marks on yours make them look like original BMW, cracking/spewing is not surprising. Dai reckons Halfords injection hose is up to the job, I am in the market myself as the cheap stuff I fitted a mere 18 months ago is now full of cracks..!

The second pipe is a crankcase breather pipe, these also suffer from rot - it must be the heat in there. It doesn't have to take pressure, just connect the holes.. Some say you can have an open breather/filter thing on the engine and block the hole up on the plenum chamber with success, others say just buy the tube from BMW. Again I am in the market, if you find a cheaper option let us all know.

The shiny silver box above the battery is.. Something. I thought it was ABS but if yours is an '85 I guess it's not

1. Fuel line. I believe that one is the outgoing (there is out/return lines) 

2. Crankcase vent. hose

Easy fix, as number one can be obtained at any respectable auto parts store. The second hose (crankcase ventilation) you need to order, as its 'Z' configuration is unique. Don't go forward without it, though, as your bike's idle will be impossible to smooth out. 

Meanwhile, go on eBay or the like and find/order a Clymer manual. They're the best and once you've read it over and over and over, etc. (as most people here have done) you'll feel a heluva lot of confidence with working on your steed. 

]

Welcome to the forum. The lines are fuel lines and your bike is pre mid 1985 as the low fuel light in the dash is activated by the large screw in item between the lines. The computer sits under the seat and above the battery. If needed I just take the ECU out of the case and leave it connected when I need to replace the battery. It would be a good idea to replace the hoses, including the small breather one... you need very small fingers and a large vocab for that one. Good luck.

The fuel lines are 8mm but 5/16" in the US will work. (7.94mm)

Make SURE you get fuel line rated for fuel injected systems. It will be marked as such on the exterior.

You'll need four feet of it to replace all three fuel lines. (Actually only 39.5" but since they sell it by the foot....)

Now should I empty the tank?
Do I need to remove the tank to get access to the lines?

I reckon you saw the pictures in the album that were taken inside of the tank? The inside of the tank looks to be in good shape...


Im guessing everything else looks good on the bike besides the lines?


Thanks

As Duck says the fuel line and the crank case breather vent pipe.

Anyone getting a K should do both of these. They crack and perish with age, heat etc

Over here BMW sell a metre long length of 8x13mm fuel hose quite cheap, the 8 being the inside diameter. For what its worth I have always gotten the BMW one but there are plenty of others.

When you are doing it the rear of the two pipes on the tank goes in behind the intake to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. First time round you need the air box off to get at it to undo the connection, 2 x 6mm? Allen bolts down to the top of the engine. Top part will hang there. When you are putting it back you can use a hose clamp with the screw angled so you can slip a long screwdriver in from the outside right to avoid taking off the airbox.

Make the new ones a bit longer and you can access under the tank without disconnecting the fuel lines at all.

Be careful getting the old ones off the tank, the spigots are reasonably strong but they can break.

Your K is virtually identical to mine, [84 RT Baja Red] its got the earlier tank too so watch the electrical plug between the two fuel connections, make sure it makes good electrical contact by squeezing up the female connectors a little, the ones inside the plug.

You don't have to remove the tank to do the lines, but the front one will p**s out petrol when you take it off as its the return line. I did mine without taking it off but the front one, when you get it off have a very short offcut of line that is bunged at the end to stop it draining. I did mine outside for ventilation. In the end I struggled with manouvering the line from the FPR into place and had to unbolt the tank, only the one bolt under the front of the seat, 10mm hex. Easier to do it with tank off because........while you have it off you are going to clean up all your electrical connections and plug connectors under the tank like all good new K owners.

Lay the tank on its right hand side on soft stuff. If the tank is very full some fuel will come out the overflow pipe under the centre middle of the tank. I had about 18 litres in mine when I did it.

Yes, I would recommend siphoning the gas out of the tank and removing it just to have it out of the way,

You'll need to get some parts out of the way.

Remove MAF:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/maf/maf.htm

Note that you won't need to remove the MAF from the air box but you will want to be able to get the top half of the air box out of the way.

Probably would not be a bad idea to replace the vacuum line from the throttle bodies to the FPR. (It has the coiled wire around it.) You can use generic vacuum line for this and do not need a BMW part.  Take the old one to an auto parts store and buy a foot a vacuum line of similar diameter. Then take the coiled wired from the old one and slide it onto the new one.

It looks pretty good but trailering with the tie downs across the fairing won't have helped the fairing. The crack or split can be repaired from inside, will be concealed by the fairing inners afterwards.

Tyres are kaput. Tyre discussion likely but anything new will be better than what you have on it now.

As for removing the tank you have done the hard bits, one bolt in photo 50 is all that's keeping it in place, unbolt and slide it back. If you disconnect the electrical, remove or cut he rear fuel line as it will only dribble because no pump, get the front one loose and you can pull the tank back with the right hand and at the last moment take off the front pipe and put your finger over the tank spigot. No need to take off the seat, it will then lift clear and that's when you realise you forgot to put something big and soft on the floor to lay the tank on its right side.

The tank will only pee if the fuel pump non-return valve is in any way iffy. It's probably screwed after all this time . As for the MAF/AFM/whatever you want to call it, it earned my undying hatred about three years ago.  My advice for that piece of poo is to identify the cable that comes out of it, then put a pair of wire cutters right through the middle... after which you'll need to put a four-way plug and socket on. It makes working round the airbox SO much easier when you can just take the whole thing off.

20160128_234424.jpg - that doesn't look good either. If the radiator was dry when you got the bike, suspect a split core. Good s/h radiators are relatively cheap on ebay.

Small question.....was the early K fitted with this non return valve? I came across that before. I do have a brand new unused old stock in the box fuel pump because its one of those things that does eventually die...maybe time to swap it out.

I do recall the LT didn't leak the fuel like that when I took its tank off.

The idea of the MAF out of the way is good too.....I like that.

My other thought on the dry radiator...yes the core splits but could have been a long slow leak at the water pump. Open coolant drain plug and see if you get anything out of it. If you do then maybe radiator, if not then more likely water/oil pump but easy to fill it and check.

One other thing, yours I think is a CA model, looking at the sticker under the seat. Some extra pipes from the gas tank for emission controls, evaporation from the gas tank is routed to the crank case.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Small question.....was the early K fitted with this non return valve?

This non return valve you find only on the early models (-83 -85)......on later models
the return line ends up very close the top inside the tank.

WTF is a "non return valve?" Is it that weird idle shit on an early K100?

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Small question.....was the early K fitted with this non return valve? I came across that before. I do have a brand new unused old stock in the box fuel pump because its one of those things that does eventually die...maybe time to swap it out.

I do recall the LT didn't leak the fuel like that when I took its tank off.

The idea of the MAF out of the way is good too.....I like that.

My other thought on the dry radiator...yes the core splits but could have been a long slow leak at the water pump. Open coolant drain plug and see if you get anything out of it. If you do then maybe radiator, if not then more likely water/oil pump but easy to fill it and check.

One other thing, yours I think is a CA model, looking at the sticker under the seat. Some extra pipes from the gas tank for emission controls, evaporation from the gas tank is routed to the crank case.

It might have been the CA model but it also says 49 states... so Im not sure.

I dont know of this return valve. I know that some vehicles have fuel injection- where the return line is back to the tank...

These two hookups at the bottom of the tank didnt have anything plugged into them... what do they do?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9Bed0xlUEIyc0ZWTnM/view?usp=sharing

Anyway I put a new album up. I noticed when I put it on the center stand, it started leaking a bit of oil from a hole?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeaUhIS0p6ZmVmdHM/view?usp=sharing

I am trying to figure out why their is so much grease/dirt on the bottom of the engine...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeQV9oQmZrTzBsX0E/view?usp=sharing

I think the fuel pump seal is starting to go bad?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeeWRra3ViUEdkMXc/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeZk13dEo1bDd1NGc/view?usp=sharing

As far as the radiator goes, I dont think I have a split core but I did notice this. Might be nothing...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeSTlJTVVpYmd1WHM/view?usp=sharing

Album:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeTUNsQXdpUVFlRTg&usp=sharing


Is the airbox easy to remove? I think I need to look at that Hanes manual...

You've got some issues with oil / coolant leaks.  Also fuel pump surround, fuel lines, crankcase vent and maybe other stuff

- oil on the sump bottom is probably a leaking water / oil pump seal.  You'll need a new seal kit or find a replacement pump (second option might be easier)
- oil coming out the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing indicates one of two possible problems.  Pick up a drop on your finger and smell it.  if it smells sulphur-like or is very pungent, you have a leaking input shaft seal on the transmission.  If it is mostly odor-free or smells like motor oil, it's a leaking O-ring on the main output shaft most probably. Either problem means you're going to have to tear into the transmission / clutch area to fix.
- crankcase vent pipe is the Z-shaped rubber hose going from the air box to the crankcase. It needs to be replaced as other have pointed out.
- fuel lines have to be replaced as others have pointed out
- The fuel pump surround may be degraded by the evidence of rubber bits lying in the bottom of the tank.  There are two clips that hold the pump in position.  Squeeze the clips to extract the pump and examine the rubber surround for deterioration.
- The staining of the temperature sensor connector and the timing chain cover might be a coolant leak coming from deteriorated rad hoses, not necessarily a broken rad core..  Examine all of them and replace those that are bad.

On the base of the fuel tank the 2 pipes that were joined are: the one that has a rightangle bend is the outlet for the water drain around the fuel cap the straight pipe is the overflow/vent for the fuel tank itself. They should both be connected to separate drain tubes that go to a position below the right pillion footpeg and not joined under any circumstances as it would drain the water from around the filler cap into the tank.
The oil on the engine around the exhaust pipe area could be from the head gasket not sealing well at the oildrain from the head to crankcase when the engine is cold. It stops as soon as the engine warms up. I doubt it would be from the oil/water pump but is possible.
The oil coming from the hole is as Rob has said. I think it is engine oil as the drops look wrong for a heavy grade gear oil but check all the same.

robmack wrote:You've got some issues with oil / coolant leaks.  Also fuel pump surround, fuel lines, crankcase vent and maybe other stuff

- oil on the sump bottom is probably a leaking water / oil pump seal.  You'll need a new seal kit or find a replacement pump (second option might be easier)
- oil coming out the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing indicates one of two possible problems.  Pick up a drop on your finger and smell it.  if it smells sulphur-like or is very pungent, you have a leaking input shaft seal on the transmission.  If it is mostly odor-free or smells like motor oil, it's a leaking O-ring on the main output shaft most probably. Either problem means you're going to have to tear into the transmission / clutch area to fix.
- crankcase vent pipe is the Z-shaped rubber hose going from the air box to the crankcase. It needs to be replaced as other have pointed out.
- fuel lines have to be replaced as others have pointed out
- The fuel pump surround may be degraded by the evidence of rubber bits lying in the bottom of the tank.  There are two clips that hold the pump in position.  Squeeze the clips to extract the pump and examine the rubber surround for deterioration.
- The staining of the temperature sensor connector and the timing chain cover might be a coolant leak coming from deteriorated rad hoses, not necessarily a broken rad core..  Examine all of them and replace those that are bad.

Thanks Robmack! Rick G!

That's a mighty to-do list!

Concerning the dealer (of course they are more xpensive) wanted $400 to lube just the two spline areas (wheel and input?) seems like it would be cheaper to do all the work myself.

$400 for a dealer spline lube is pretty cheap. Most dealers charge standard hours and will run you up near $1,000.

Yes, it is much more cost effective to DIY it.

While you're at it on an 85, it also makes sense to replace the clutch nut O-ring.