Hello all, my first post here - some may be angry with me, try not to beat on me too hard

My 1990 K75RT has been sitting for over 10 years, not always inside - for this I deserve grief, but life is complicated.

I'd like some suggestions about where to start. I'm guessing fuel system is #1, I realize all fluids should be changed, new tires etc...

Any ideas?

Thanks, Lorne

Welcome Lorne,

It's not how you store your bike that is important (well it is actually), but that you are getting her back on the road.
You won't get grief from anyone here for that.

Have a read of THIS

It is a link on the front page of the portal, but saves you trying to hunt it down.

As good a place as any to start.

rosskkko

Thanks Rosskko, I'll be looking at that link right now.

Kinda cool to get responses from all over the world - another forum I visit, 'Music Electronics' (to repair my amps) I have had help from Argentina, USA, Canada & Russia.

Cheers Mate

This link off the Portal page is required reading.
You just bought a used K100, so what now?

Welcome Lorne
don't be AFRAID to ask the gurus about anything, they are a pretty decent bunch. (there are a few I wouldn't share a hotel room with, but mostly nice).

I've been doing a lot of reading on this site - great info, thanks everyone.

Mentioned to lovely wife Joanie that I'd found a new forum to follow - her response 'guess I won't be seeing you much' - so glad she understands...

Looks like major fuel system issues, wondering where to get the rubber bits inside the tank? In Canada I would like to avoid USA sites (no predjudice, just crazy shipping & duties costs) Any good Canadian sources?

Thanks, Lorne

I usually get that from EME http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-K-Parts-s/60.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=60&show=20&page=1

But them being in US does make it difficult. Some of the Canuks in Vancouver have a US mailing address just across the border but depending where you are in Quebec that may not be a viable option.
You should check out the shipping costs to Australia but it helps that we have no import costs if the item is less than $1000, apparently it costs more to collect than they get.

Thanks Rick, I like that site. Anticipating having to renew all rubber bits in fuel system plus a few others... yikes

Haven't actually looked inside tank yet but expecting major crud...

Soon as I get up the courage to get in there (just finished a major electronic repair on my bass amp) I'll post some pics.

I had even considered selling the K75 & buying something new - but there's nothing out there I like. Plus the K75 is such a sweet ride...

Cheers, Lorne

Welcome Lorne from a fellow 1990 K75 owner. Don't even think of selling it - they are pretty special.

Mine had sat for 3-4 years in a wreckers before I got it but replaced all the fluids and the rubber bits in the tank and away it went. Have done 14,000 km on it since getting it on the road 18 months ago and love it. There have been minor repairs along the way and no doubt some more to come but that's all part of the rewarding ownership experience with help from the many knowledgeable people on here.

Cheers

Thanks all for your encouragement. Have been doing a lot of reading here & some other sites - big job ahead...

Update - dared to actually take the key & open tank (yay, it opened)

Kinda hard to see inside (bright sunshine & old eyes) but nice yellow varnish was there...

I'm going to pull the tank, remove filler cap on top & level sensor from bottom - then try to get pump, filter & hoses out & see how bad the rubber bits are. Not expecting joy...

On the interweb I've seen many suggestions about how to dissolve the crap (varnish, rubbergoop) - ranging from vinegar to lacquer thinner to acetone to muriatic acid to kerosene - it goes on & on.

OK, so I may be old but not completely stupid - I know vinegar & muriatic are well, acids- duh. These things can't be good for an aluminum tank, duh again. The acetone & lacquer thinner (which is part acetone I think) will do nasty things to paint on the tank if I get even one drop on it...

So, what's a good chemical that won't eat aluminum or paint? Or is that like wanting my cake but eat it too?

Waiting for wisdom... 

Hi Lorne,

Welcome to the forum too.

Lots of us have ended up with a K that has been stored similar to yours so lots of experience here. What I can say after a few years on the forum is that without fail everyone is very helpful and along the way made some very good friends from one side of the world to the other. So much so that for the last 4 years have been taking trips with some of them. More importantly is that the collective knowledge and shared information really keeps a K running no matter where you are.

I guess the fuel tank will keep you busy for a small bit as you may also have some corrosion inside which you should address. Main thing is get yourself up and running and go from there. There will be a few one off tasks that should be done as catch up maintenance, things like spline lubes and if you have the skills for that go for it. You will also see posts about tyres an d old tyres, if yours was in storage for 10 years the tyres will be shot due to being hard. Polish your fork stanchions well before riding it to make sure there are no surface imperfections to damage the fork seals....

Do you know much about the history of the bike before you put it in storage?

If you are stuck for getting parts over it is possible to get some mailed to us here in Ireland or I am sure in UK and we can mail them over to you.

Thanks 92KK

I'm aware that the tires (or do you call them tyres) are toast. I bought my 1990 brand new at the end of riding season here in the fall of '91. That got me a bike with a sticker price of CDN$ 14,000 for CDN$ 9200 - sweet deal.

 I put a Corbin seat on right away, 'cuz the stock one was crap - every time I braked hard my ba**s got jammed into the tank   

It came with Michelen tires which I thought were good until I switched to Metzeler - that rear end wiggle on one particular curve/bump was gone.

So, I'm the only one who has ridden it. Life being what it is I never put a lot of miles on it - then there was the divorce... life is much better now but the poor K75 has been sitting for a long time. It's going to take a lot more than cleaning the fuel system - & by cleaning I mean maybe new fuel pump, fuel sender, hoses & filter. We shall see if injectors need work. Fork seals were already leaking back then, don't suppose they have gotten any better with time...

Then I guess there will be issues with cooling system, brakes, seals & etc.

Never mind that small rodents have trashed the seat  

Never mind, what else does an old fart have to do with his time (and measly Govm't pension) to do?

Cheers Lorne 

Just make sure any gooey stuff is removed and when you are using the bike run some injector cleaner and that will slowly get rid of the varnish build up.

Lorne

The K75 will be good therapy and maybe a wise move holding onto it.

Definitely replace the outside fuel lines too, with a few on/off tank jobs and old pipes...The fuel hoses go hard and wriggling causes them to crack and leak. Making them slightly longer so you can access the stuff under the tank just by raising it at the rear or by sliding it back a little is useful but don't overdo the extra bit so you don't put a big pressure on the tank spigots. The pipe is 8/13mm but I have used the BMW one as it was quite cheap. The narrow vacuum hose and crank case breather vent probably well perished...how do I know!

Quite a few things may well sort themselves out with use. Injector cleaner is good too.

I am sure you will pick up a Corbin seat but if not have a look for a 'Comfort' seat. Its not leather and may be a little less attractive to those furry little creatures but its very comfortable. As far as I know its the same as on the K100 [86 onwards].

I suspect if you are in doing fork seals then maybe take a look at head bearings and the damper. 88KE has just done the head bearings and damper on his K75 that's now in France.

The brakes may frustrate you, with those pins in the calipers. I have a feeling they will give you trouble when you try to get them out and you should get your hands on some spare pins. My son's car uses the same system, German 'engineering' and when I saw it last weekend after he did a disc/pad replacement there were little slots cut in the calipers to get the pins out....the independent specialists way of getting over it. But the K calipers wont take that so you will sweat to get the pins out. Having read up more on this recently there is a big case for backing these pins out ever year and cleaning and refitting them.

Cooling system should not be bad, a good flush, cleaning radiator pressure cap  etc etc. Fan bearings may be toast though, but with management you can ride without it for a while.

May be a case of get yourself running for now for enjoyment and over next winter do some of the other tasks.

A pity you are not over this way.....we might get to meet up.


Music electronics sounds interesting.......ESL63s tucked away somewhere? A fan of Linn Audio here.....

Hi all, thanks for the responses.

Still waiting for opinions on best solvent to use for cleaning up varnish & goop in tank... 

The carby and throttle body cleaner is the best, it removes it instantly but it isn't cheap.

My favorite fuel system cleaner is Seafoam. 

I have a Honda generator that had not been run for about 5 years.  Would not start.   It appeared that the fuel system was heavily varnished.  I dumped the old gas and put in fresh with 8oz of Seafoam per gallon.  Pulled the starter a few times each day to pump the new gas through the system. 

After a week or so, the Seafoam had cleaned the passages and the engine started.  Ran like crap, but after a couple more days of running a couple minutes a day it started to run better and after 4-5 days it ran perfectly.  Total time was a little over two weeks.

I am hooked on Seafoam now.

Looked up Seafoam on the interweb - looks like it's a mix of diesel/naptha/alcohol...

Guess I can get these at the hardware/drugstore for a lot cheaper 

Well, some progress here - tank is off & I only scratched it a bit   

Discovered about 27 spider nests, was bitten 9 times by mosquitoes - but no bloodshed  

What were they thinking about those fuel lines - like they will never need replacing? Sheesh

There would be a pic here if I could figure out the 'hosting site' gobblygook... any help with that?

Trying again...



I think it worked...

Now that you've got over that hurdle Lorne there'll be no stopping you. We'll expect to see wall to wall pictures!

Some parts arrived today, & I went on a shopping spree for tank cleaning chemicals...

Will now try to attach pics





Let's see if it worked - so exciting...

So, only got the pics up thanks to Joanie's help - kinda embarassing considering I spent 15 years in IT, but that was a long time ago... anyone remember 'Mainframes' ?

Of the 3 chemicals shown, which one to start with? Or which one is a no-no?

Or would a mix of them be good? Don't want to melt any of the tank internals, pump & everything else are still in there...

Waiting for wisdom...

Let's see if it worked - so exciting...

I'm waiting in BC to hear the loud booooommmm when you mix all those together!

Well T3, all 3 are 'petroleum distillates', diesel conditioner also has isopropyl alcohol - so methinks no 'boom'  

A couple of hours got the fuel filler cap off, of course 1 of the 4 screws was unhappy about moving...

Some pics...

Inside tank

https://i.servimg.com/u/f18/19/26/39/70/img_0343.jpg

More pics when I can get the dumbass servimg to work...

Another try...

Inside tank...

[/ur



fuel cap...



tools (after 1 screw wouldn't budge, more WD40, pause for dinner, get bigger hammer)



glad I didn't have to use these (cuz looking at the dealer site, this is unubtainium)

https://i.servimg.com/u/f18/19/26/39/70/img_0351.jpg

Crazy, crazy image hosting

Hey Lorne. After you've uploaded your pic to serving.com just click and copy (CTRL+C) the middle link and paste (CTRL+V) into your post. That's all I do.

Following your project with interest.
Cheers

Hey Kaptain

You realize I'm on a Mac...

Servimg is taking more time than acuallly working on the bike

All sorts of kids & grandkids arriving soon (summer here) that should distract me.

Like the pics of my tank? Looks like I need a new vib damper...

Wondering if I should remove everything (sender etc) before chemicals go in... a little out of my depth here...

Cheers, Lorne

Most of the keyboard commands are the same for the mac, you just have replace the CTRL key with the Command key... but you probably knew that anyway.
Cheers

1990k75 wrote:

Wondering if I should remove everything (sender etc) before chemicals go in... a little out of my depth here...

Cheers, Lorne  

Lorne, Do what you think you need to do to get the bike right.
Do not worry about skills or lack of.

A digital camera is your best friend.
A ziploc bag (plastic bag you run your fingers along to close) and a good pen to mark it with the contents is your second best friend.

The forum comes in third when you realise you have an extra screw or washer you just can't remember where it went.

There are many on here who have zero experience fixing anything let alone a motorcycle. /puts hand up
Be methodical. Photo it (download the photos and save them, idiot tip but you would be surprised), strip it, bag it, reverse it.

If in doubt, do a forum search with 'where does this go' and see if any parts cannot be identified.

go on. you know you want to

Take it all out Lorne and like RossKo said a camera and zip lock bags are great. I have been doing this stuff since I could pick up a spanner (over 60 years) and I still use the bags sometimes.

Lorne - before you go wasting money on expensive chemicals get some pure acetone from your local Chemist/Drugist/Pharmacy sluice the tank out with it and if you can, agitate it with a brush or scrubbing pad (Kitchen type)do this a couple of times then rinse with petrol.

I would remove the pump, float and other components first.

Thanks guys, I need all the help I can get

Today got my hands in the tank trying to get things apart, struggling a bit - then noticed the label on the box of nitrile gloves I'm using - XL - no wonder I'm having a problem.

Seriously, how many of you have had their hands in there to get the pump out? I got 3 screws out & just can't figure how my ham-hands will get the others out...

Is there a tool I never heard about? Are these things assembled by small children? I'm discouraged, nothing I can do about the size of my hands. OK, on a positive note wife Joanie has offered her somewhat smaller hands for the job... hmm...
For a woman she has large hands - I think I need a small child to do this...

So, any tricks from those who have had hands in the tank?

On another note, I see BMW wants US$100 for the vib damper (fuel pump) other sites maybe US$50 + 25 shipping - that's one expensive little piece of rubber... Can dollar around 80 cents now...

Not the best day of this process, #1 child said 'when is it not worth it'...

You dont need to get those screws out. The white plastic holder has a push in part on front and back, if you press them in at the same time the pump, plastic thingy and rubber bit or what is left of it will lift straight up.  It can take a bit of jiggling but it heaps easier than those screws.  Don't feed dumb most here have been caught with that including me.

Rick, you are my saviour - was about to give up on this...

If it wasn't 4AM here now I'd go out & try that

Stand by for updates tomorrow...

Thanks, Lorne

And the prize goes to Rick G





Clipped my little 1 amp charger on - nothing. guess I'm in the market for a new pump... :pale:

Euro Moto Electric the best source for me?

How come that trick rick gave is nowhere in Clymer's?

You will need to buy a new damper rubber and the support ring (the old ones do break up easily).  Get the ring and damper for the K1100, the 43mm pump, there is no difference to the volume and pressure ratings. By doing this a new 43mm pump is much cheaper from ebay or auto shops and much easier to replace if you are on the road and need a new pump.
EME is the best plae for the ring and damper and has the 43mm pumps for $129 but you should be able to get one from an auto shop or online for less than half that.  Most pumps are interchangeable just make sure of the diameter, the outlet is 8mm and the inlet where the filter goes will fit, you may have to change the wire terminals.
The filter may be a long thin one, what I do is double them over and put a zip tie round it to hold it in place but not tight so as to restrict the full surface of the filter.
The K1100 up till sept 93 had the 52mm pump then changed to the 43mm pump.

Hey Rick

Damper rubber is no longer rubber, more like tar

Support ring seems OK...

Now a new problem, the sender unit seems frozen - can't find any parts for that, maybe a good soaking will revive it... or I'll live without it.

Local auto supply shops look at me like a deer in the headlights when I mention BMW bike...

Fleabay is a bit scary, most stuff comes from USA - Can$ is about 80 cents now and shipping is crazy - $10 part costs $20 to ship.

Right now, after seeing the condition of the tank & pump is frozen, I have to consider that there are a few more bits between the tank & engine - the pressure regulator, fuel rail & injectors. They are all probably nasty...

Wondering now if the best bet is to get new pump/rubber from EME - is the Bosch pump worth the extra $$ ? And should I just forget about cleaning injectors & buy new/refurbed ? and that pressure reg?

Turning out to be a lot more than 'rinse out the tank'

Trying to keep a positive attitude, with help from Stella Artois & Jose Cuervo...

Cheers, Lorne

Been running into the same Cdn $$$ issue, I've been buying most of my parts from MotoBins UK as the pricing works out less than from the US and Canada and the shipping is very reasonable and fast. I was lucky, I only had a 1.5 mm hole in my tank I guess, no black goo. I'm still replacing all the rubber from pump to injector and back as it's all 30 yrs old.

Was just paining all the parts that I prep'd using POR-15 metal clean and metal prep. Stuff works great, soak in one, rinse, soak in the second Zinc Phosphate solution and the part comes out zinc coated (same as parkerizing for any gun nuts) ready for painting or oiling. Parts look new.

Have you pulled your throttle bodies off yet? Mine were black and gummed up, a can of carb cleaner later they are sparkling clean now.

Pulling the injectors are not bad. Tested them with carb cleaner and a 9 volt battery (bought and extra injector connector on-line just for testing) to see if they worked. All were good, left cleaner in them over night, blew them out and they seem good. Put new o-rings top and bottom, a bit of silicone grease and re-installed.

Keep slogging away, it will run again, hope mine will, starting to put the hundreds of pieces back on now!

Glad I didn't hear a big boom, was only joking.

Hi all, an update here...

Searching for parts all over the world it occured to me I should try harder locally - went to Kijiji & found a 1995 K75RT for sale in the next town down the road, 66000 km & clean. Turns out I used to work with the seller, he had bought it for the wife who found it a little tall (tiptoes at stops). So I bought it CDN$ 2750.

I've put 140 km on so far, all seems well except low idle speed & some backfires on decel...

No previous owner history, but the fact that it has side bags, rear topcase, & a shiteload of bungee attaching points suggests to me this bike was carrying a lot of luggage & was probably well maintained...

The 'splines' thing has me a bit worried though...

I see evidence of changed rad hose clips, maybe hoses were changed?

Anyway, I haven't given up on 'old blue', new fuel pump on the way - I will try to get her to run...
But after that I'm considering parting her out at really cheap prices, she only has 15000 km on her...
Crazy prices being asked everywhere I look -$1000 tanks etc.

I would offer honest prices to all here, what you people think?

Cheers, Lorne

Would be a damn shame to part it out

I hear you Kaptain, the reasons I jumped on the 1995 K75RT were - first it was 15 mins away from me, 2nd I knew the seller, 3rd it was clean & only 66K kms... but lastly, at the speed I work & the shameful condition 'old blue' is in it might have taken years & many $$$ to get it going, and I wanted to ride...

Right now both bikes are in the driveway, haven't managed to clear out garage yet, it's still full of all the results of moving 2 houses into a tiny house & tons of renos... I must make space for them before winter (not far away here in the frozen north)

I will reconsider the parting out, was just a Tequila fueled thought.

I just thought, after seeing the crazy prices for parts that maybe I could help others out with really cheap parts, kinda a 'pay it forward' thing....

We shall see - I'm 67 now & energy is not what it was

Cheers, Lorne

Hi Lorne

Sad about the original K75 but when I think of the time we have it seems to make sense to stick with the 'new' one.

The 'old' one will take time and that's not something we all have in huge abundance. The time spent doing a restoration could instead be spent riding the 'new' one with some enjoyment and the winter spent sorting the storage for one running K but also with a pile of spares that you would have. Its not an easy decision but sounds like there are a lot of other things you want to be doing too.

That's my thought.......

Hi 92kk

Yes, Ive been enjoying riding the 'new' bike

But haven't given up on 'old blue' - fuel pump on the way, & just treated myself to a new pressure washer which may help with cleaning the old tank...

Gosh it's good to be riding again...

Cheers, Lorne

RicK G wrote:You will need to buy a new damper rubber and the support ring (the old ones do break up easily).  Get the ring and damper for the K1100, the 43mm pump, there is no difference to the volume and pressure ratings. By doing this a new 43mm pump is much cheaper from ebay or auto shops and much easier to replace if you are on the road and need a new pump.
EME is the best plae for the ring and damper and has the 43mm pumps for $129 but you should be able to get one from an auto shop or online for less than half that.  Most pumps are interchangeable just make sure of the diameter, the outlet is 8mm and the inlet where the filter goes will fit, you may have to change the wire terminals.
The filter may be a long thin one, what I do is double them over and put a zip tie round it to hold it in place but not tight so as to restrict the full surface of the filter.
The K1100 up till sept 93 had the 52mm pump then changed to the 43mm pump.

Rick, does that zip tie like living in fuel?

I've never had a problem and AFAIK nobody else has.

Thanks Rick...

Just got new pump in the mail from China (I know) $37 & free shipping...

Still have to get the rubber bit & adapter for 37mm, I guess from EME - Canadian dollar is killing me here

In the meantime new (to me) 1995 K75RT is wonderful, I'm riding again

Cheers, Lorne

Second try at an update with pics...

3rd try, servimage driving me nuts...