Working on it  

It's my old K75S, finally found time to check things out.
Has problems with starting, but when it runs, too much fuel.
Did a lot of things, been there done that....even got a new tempsensor.
Here's the trick (hope get it) measuring the wires gives broken wires to the sensor  
Damn, now remove all the hardware to acces the sensor and check the loom.
Will get pics, and updates too



By the way, friend has a K75 too, ran bad, no spark on middle cilinder.
Got a new coil, new cable, checked the correct connections....all good, even got spark, but no running on middle cilinder.
Stop guessing, ignitionbox from a K100 fits too Bugger....
Placed a K75 ignitionbox and now running like new

Zero from pin 10 to tempconnector, zero from temprelais to tempconnector. Think have the bugger

Got a spare loom from a friend, this one is good, all connections are perfect

Zero equals open circuit, not much fun, good job you have a friend with a spare.

Actually, Zero equals CLOSED circuit indicating continuity

If Wheeldigger is actually measuring 0.0 ohms on both of those wires then I would say they are ok.
If he is just using the term zero to mean he's getting nothing on those circuits then its a little confusing.

Continutity/closed circuit/conductivity = no or very tiny resistance. DMM displays 0.0 or <0.5 ohms (depends which scale you use).

No continuity/open circuit/no conductivity = infinite resistance. DMM displays 1

I was thinks Zero Volts nige

Keith, volts yes, but WD's second photo shows he's measuring between the FICU plug and the sensor connector. No Vs there as its all disconnected from the system. The test is for continuity and the measurement is ohms.

Wheeldigger, I think you would be better to reinstall and reconnect the temp sensor and measure the resistance on the 200 kilohm range between pin #10 on the FICU plug and earth. But first clean the threaded connection on the sensor and the engine block.  You should be measuring around 2.5 kilohms (at 20^oC). This tells you firstly that the sensor is functioning as it should plus you have continuity between the sensor and the FICU plug connections.

The sensor earths thru the threaded body to the engine. A lot of issues come from corrosion here due to disimilar metals. The FICU thinks it high resistance and pumps in too much fuel at startup.

Another thing to consider is that the new sensor is kaput. A member here had this happen just recently. To test the new sensor Out-Of-The-Box, measure kilohms between the top connection (there are 2) and the threaded base (about 2.5 kilohms). This saves a lot of trouble and frustration if it turns out to be a dud sensor.

Cheers

Thanks all, had a long journey to find the problem.
Altough it was in my mind that it must be the loom, not in the hands, didn't have time to work on the bike.
Temp sensor is new, and good. Just like lots of other parts.... Bugger kept me busy
In between EFI conn - temp conn, and temp conn - relais conn is no connection anymore, endless resistance, broken wires.
The new loom/part feels soft and easy to bend, the old one is hard, feels like willing to break, Guess our new fuel (not much choice) and being old made the crap complete.

Bad loom replaced, some other things fixed.
Now waiting for some parts to come, and next saturday buy some parts.
Should be running on sunday

Good news Wheeldigger, we await the first report on your ride.

New battery, new coolant, some new connectors....
Some little electrical problems left, but going....been sitting too long without running
Fan gets a new manual override, and upgrade with daylight running lights.
Have to find a way to disable +12V to the clock, because replaced the clock with LED Volt-meter, drains the battery.
Tomorrow will get my old parts from my old shed, get the bike together

Wheeldigger wrote:
Have to find a way to disable +12V to the clock, because replaced the clock with LED Volt-meter, drains the battery.

Remove the Red/White wire on Pin 1 of the cluster connector and re-wire that pin up to the Green/Black wire on Pin 6.

Rob what will that do? Is pin 6 switched?
Wheeldigger I hope you can take a pic of that LED Voltmeter for us, sounds like a great use for the clock space.

K75ster, that's the intention. Switched 12V gets applied to the voltmeter instead of constant 12V.

Ok Good to know makes it just like the others then. (bikes that have standard volt meters That is)

If there is no clock in the cluster, a black plastic cover is on the inside wich fits like the clock.
I used that one asplaceholder for the Voltmeter, got range 3-30 Volts, 2 wire fit.
The LED in the middle and the strange switch is the manual override for the fan, that one will get an update.

That looks nice, but I must say its ten past one, you sure stay up late
Certainly give us an option when our fails It does look "the go" ace

I live on the other side ofthe world, the Netherlands
You read in local time.


It's now 10:30 AM now here, saturday.

Pics from minutes ago;



Had the new battery charged, looks like the bugger is smiling to me



The headlight of the S is the same (ordernr) as the early F650. Mine came from America, has no lightswitch=lights always on. The BMW-joke; take that switch + his loom out, replace 1 on 1 with loom+lightswitch, and it works, it's plug-and-play

Even my Yamaha Diversion (Seca) 600 has the Voltmeter;

the ten past one comment was due to the 11.0 volts showing on the clock, its ok I thought it was funny,
13.1 volts showing now is much improved, full charge is a good thing

Missed that one, but now I get it  

The 11 Volts was with new batt last year, after lots of fail starts, by then it was still good.
Have been sitting for a year, and died

The Yam, even on 10.5 Volts, it starts!
Not to bug you all, bought the Yam as cheapo to ride till the K is running again.
And the credits, the Yam never failed....

Yes I read of a study here on Australia where they found the Yamaha's were the most reliable of bikes.
Don't know by how much they were ahead of us though, cheers

Picked up my stock, let the wrench-party begin

The big checkup; all electrics are functioning.
Even the instrument cluster is working, altough it has seen water, and some parts came off  
Will replace the cluster, got a spare, with a working clock

Alive and running

The next problems; Tank is leaking, left side.
And think 1 hall-sensor is bad. Cold ok, warm not ok.
Lucky me got spare parts

Spares do come in handy, a bummer with the tank leak, have you got a spare

Today exchanged the HESplate and the tank.
Still running on too much fuel
Gonna replace the PR soon, got the old one from an old K75, but works well.
21:25 here, end of day, time to relax

Ran out of time to proceed, continue later....

I've bought the bugger from Wheeldigger. Pity the pictures are gone but this topic helps me to understand the way Wheeldigger was thinking and what he has exchanged.
For a start i'm gonna try the bike on a new proven Jetronic.
I'm gonna exhange the Airflow sensor as well with one I know is working OK.
I've tested the pressure regulator, it opens between 2,5 and 3 bar. Next step is the temp sensor and pin 10. I know Wheeldigger has installed a new sensor and a replacement loom, but I can not take anything for granted, have to check all te options. If the problem was obvious Wheeldigger would have found it in the first try..... I will put a soldering iron between the sensor and the camchain cover, if everything works the resistance should drop.
Next, somewhere later this week I will check the valve timing and ignition timing.

It must be something simple. Something is telling the Jetronic is is freezing or there are massive amounts of air coming in.

Ah, there you are

Welcome to the best K-forum in the world

Still have Red Sonja, the K1100RS/LT
And Nicole von Bayern has arrived, the R1200RT.
She's a K26, they can't kick me out

The red K75S is Lucille, from the song from Normaal     (Normaal = a Dutch rock & Roll band)

Sorry, I don't name bikes, t is just the red K75. The only names I give to bikes are commonly associated with some kind of illness.

Holister wrote:Actually, Zero equals CLOSED circuit indicating continuity

If Wheeldigger is actually measuring 0.0 ohms on both of those wires then I would say they are ok.
If he is just using the term zero to mean he's getting nothing on those circuits then its a little confusing.

Continutity/closed circuit/conductivity = no or very tiny resistance. DMM displays 0.0 or <0.5 ohms (depends which scale you use).

No continuity/open circuit/no conductivity = infinite resistance. DMM displays 1

I can't reproduce what Wheeldigger was measuring.
I'm very much an electrics dombo, but I think I can grasp this.
Scale to 2000Ohm. Two pins in the air and the display shows 1
Pin on the engine/ground other pin in 10 of multiplug, the display shows 1
Pin on the engine/ground other pin in some random other pins of the multiplug, measuring resistance.
Pin on the engine/ground other pin somewhere else on a bolt/casting, measuring a low resistance about 0.05.

To me that sounds as no connection between the temp switch and pin 10. 
Next steps: am I measuring between the right points? Where is the open connection?

Next step would be to disconnect the temp sensor, and measure between pin 10 and the sensor connector (the other connector of the two goes to the fan relay).

If still no conductivity, the problem is in the wiring.
If you have conductivity, the problem is the sensor itself or corrosion in the threads.

That's my thought also Inge.
I've disconnected the plug at the sensor side. It contains two purple/green wires. One has continuity to pin 10, the other one is open. I presume the other one is to the fan/lamp switch. As long as pin 10 gets ground it should be OK.
Measuring the sensor is very hard, it is almost unreachable. Sometimes I get a flash of resistance on one of the pins, but most of the time not. I will find a suitable container and drain the cooling system, remove the radiator and proceed.

@Wheeldigger, did  you install a brand new sensor or a used one? You did not install it using Teflon tape did you?

This k got a new sensor, about 3 years ago.
Nope, no teflontape involved

I think I found the problem. After all a malfunctioning Temp switch
After removal of the fairing and the radiator removing the temp switch was peanuts. One pin of the switch made connection to the housing, Sorry I didn't record the values. The other one didn't. There was no connection between the two pins.
Remember, the wiring was fine. Connecting the wiring and measuring between pin 10 and the switch housing showed there was an open connection.
So I pulled an other switch from an engine wich was running fine. Both pins had a high resistance towards the housing. I boiled some water, poured it in a mug, connected the "new" switch to the wiring and dropped it in the water. Indeed, the resistance on pin ten dropped gradually.
So I fitted the "new" switch connected the rest of the wiring dropped in a battery and started the engine. No black clouds, good gas response, I think I solved it.

I think the first temp switch was defect, or the wrong kind. There are similar looking switches, but working differently. Most of them variate the resistance between the two pins.
@Wheeldigger, do you want the temp switch back to throw it through someones front window?

Off course the bike is running, but not 100%, there is more work to do. Somehow it runs high idle, Adjusting the idle at normal values works fine. but after a minute or five the revs suddenly drop and the engine stalls. Restarting the engine is no problem and the idle is normal again.
I suspect it is in the fuel pressure system, but still have to make a test run to see what the current status of the complaints is.

Happy you found it
Can throw away the old sensor, be careful with your window

Did I leave fuel in the tank?
Better replace all the fuel, our crappy fuel can't last 3 months....
Got that shit in the K1100