Recently acquired a slightly neglected K100RS (1984) with 70k miles. Being new to K100s I am giving it a full overhaul including spline lube and trying to fix the heavy clutch action. As suspected the clutch arm bearings are completely shot. My question is regarding the clutch pushrod; the Haynes bible states that the pushrod can be withdrawn backwards on the K100 but mine is stuck fast. Is the book correct? Look forward to hearing from someone.
Cheers, Robert

Hi Robert. Yes, the book is correct, however the K100 and the K75 gearboxes are the same except for the pushrod arrangement. You can remove it from the rear on the K100, but not on the K75. I don't know if someone might have fitted a gearbox with K75 pushrod on your K100??
I have the same bike ('84 & 70K), but haven't removed the rod yet so don't know how easy it should be, but an original K100 setup should allow for removal of the rod.

Rene, Many thanks for the quick reply. Looks like need to remove the gearbox to investigate further. Cheers, Robert

How does it feel when you try to pull the rod back? There is a seal in the box that might have created a rim on the shaft. How much force did you use? As they used to say when I was still sailing: "It's not your mother!"

On a K100, you can easily remove the push rod from the back of the gearbox.
The K75 has a step on the front of the rod preventing it to be pulled from the back.
The bush (#14) is mounted press fit on the rod, and after removing the bearing (#2) you have to use a hammer and soft punch to push the rod toward the front of the gearbox. On a K75, this operation can only be done when the gearbox is off the bike.

A K75 push rod has a lot of longitudinal play before hitting the front step or the back bush. When the bearing (#2) is removed, you should be able to grab the rod with a pair of pliers and freely move it.

Hi, Many thanks for all the advice. The pushrod is stuck fast and refuses to move backwards at all. It will probably make the gearbox interseting to remove, which I hope to try next weekend. Will let you know how it goes. Cheers.

The end of the push rod goes into a brass bushing at the end of the output shaft.
This bushing may be bad. I saw once one totally worn.

Changed the clutch operating arm bearings and replaced the clutch cable as the old one was damaged. Question is what is the correct routing for the cable. The old one went to the right of the steering head and through a hole in the plastic trim at the headstock and down between the airbox and airfilter housing befor arriving at the cable retainer in the gearbox. This does not look correct to me as the cable arrives at the gearbox at on odd angle and the clutch lever is heavy. Please can someone advise the correct routing for the clutch cable. Cheers, Robert.

Hi Robert,

Coincidentally I replaced mine on the weekend and what you did sounds about right and mine is nice and smooth but it does not have any weird angles in it.
I have some pictures I sent to Rene at some stage when the same question was asked so I will see if I can dig them up.
Just checked what I have and none show the gearbox end of the cable properly so I try and get some additional pictures.







Not sure if these help any but it basically has a smooth path over the top of the air box down to the clutch arm so the whole cable has nice smooth bends although it is a fairly severe effort around the headstock.

Yeah, I did it as per picturs, but it still 'feels' crampted somehow. Still haven't figured out a better way though.