Hi all...  

My K1 is going back together, and as I had the front cover off, and hall sensor assembly out, figure when I get to running it, need to check and reset the timing, now reading the Clymer manual it talks of special tools, a box with light, a rod to find TDC on the piston ect, so I don't have those tools, do have a automotive timing light though...
So is there a way to set the timing without the BMW tools...?

Also, how does one get the Ignition switch off the bottom of the barrel...?  Talking of the white plastic switch part here,  And how do we get the key barrel out..?

Cheers Jeremy

just did the ignition switch on the weekend Jeremy

have a look here

https://www.k100-forum.com/t1833p1050-85-rt-resto-my-attempt-hey-im-not-into-making-a-show-bike#116849

the switch assembly is best probed from the riders ide of the dashpad with 2 jewelers screwdrivers after removeing the surround

maybe this pic will help



the switch then falls out the back side of the pad

so removal of the pad is essential

good luck and have fun

There are no 'timing marks' so one must locate TDC and sort out degrees from there. Search ignition timing in the forum search window for how others have overcome the issue. Once sorted, mark the plate and the case for next time (pun intended).

On a K1, like K100-16V & K11, the lock cylinder is fitted into the upper triple clamp. Look at the RH base of this stem for the slotted 3mm grub screw. The electrical portion wiggles out after removal of the too-easily-lost screw.

A few years ago I made an adaptor to fit a timing disc to a K engine. Searching 'timing disc' finds the post, but the pictures have disappeared so here they are again.

13mm bar, 110mm long, turned down to 10mm x 50mm long and threaded M10 x 1mm pitch (note fine thread) for about 20mm. Tap end M6 to attach disc and cross drill a hole to use a tommy bar for tightening.





Paul.

There's some useful info HERE
Its for oilheads but there are instructions on making a timing box to determine TDC etc which should be useable on our Ks.

Cheers for the help to all...

Got the grub screw out and the white plastic switch module on the bottom of the ignition barrel out, not found how to get the key barrel out yet though...

Ignition timing, need to do a search and find out more info, the home made LED light tester looks good, but they don't really tell me how to use it...
See what I can dig up in the search on here... All else fails, it will be into the dealer for setting, but maybe a couple weeks away from being at that point...
Looking forward to getting to ride this beast, rode her home 9 months ago, pulled her apart, and sat looking at a lot of bits for months, Amazed at how many bits came off, and how heavy each part is, Sure built them solid back in the day... 

Cheers Jeremy

If you're talking about the actual lock cylinder: You place the key in the lock and a sturdy paperclip or suitable probe into a small hole on the body of the flange, put sideways and upwards tension on the key and poke around in that small orifice 'til the cylinder comes free. Keep the key in the lock cylinder or the tumblers will escape and scatter.

Drilling the one-time use screws out so that the assembly is in your hands and clear of the upper triple clamp makes life a lot easier.