Hi,
After an upgrade of the instrument cluster with LED, I noticed something weird with the warning light.
Turning on the ingnition key and the kill swith off (ready to start) gives a steady warning light. Applying the front and rear brakes makes this light go out. So far so good, this is normal behaviour.
After that when I apply the front or the rear brakes, the warning light briefly lights up just at the moment the brake switch is closed. The warning light also briefly lights up when the brakes are released, just at the moment the brake switch is opened.
Can someone explain this phenomenom.

Luk

probably the low current that leds draw ...and the fast reaction ....(well faster than incansescent globes any how )

normally the bmu warning lamp does a little dance with brightness as the switches are engaged ..in any case ...(one of my test cases to see that everything is working right is to see the flash as either brake switch is activated ...before heading out )

by my theory ...the slight change in voltage ..reacts with the alternator as it tries to maintain the correct volts as the brake light is illuminated ,,,just for a second or so it over compensates ..(flashing the bulb display of the bmu )

leds just work faster and display the change brighter and more quickly

does that make sense ?

Charlie,
This makes sense to me. I think I'll do the retro-fit, back to incandescent bulb for the BMU warning light.
Can't stand this bright red light  flashing each time I brake.
Thanks for your input.
Luk

ABS warning lights don't like LED too. Normally both ABS warning lights flash. They go out when the ABS self test is completed after you drive away (just after the Koink-Kloink-Kloink noice underneath the seat). None of these lights would work. Checked polarity, seems OK to me. LED light up when I apply +12V on pin # 8 (ABS light on the left side of the cluster) and #12 (ABS light on the right side of the cluster
On a K1100 there is no second fuel low warning light, there is ABS light instead.
I turned these LED 180°  (to reverse polartiy), but no cigar. When I re-insert the incandescent bulbs it works fine. I'm puzzled now because no one complained about this behaviour after a LED conversion.
Did someone had problems after Instrument cluster LED conversion?

Luk

in general

any thing to do with illumination of the instruments is fair game

but be wary of anything to do with control circuitry ...indication of warnings ...charge indicator etc

unless you have read the warnings ..updates of previous experiences  leds are leds and often work slightly differently
 to their incandescent brothers in certain situations .

I spent 35€ on LED bulbs, just to conclude that the upgrade of the Instrument cluster to LED isn't satisfactory.
Buggers. I'll keep the LED on the cluster illumination, turn indicators, high beam, neutral light, low fuel indication and throw the rest out. Replacing them with conventional bulbs, of course.

Luk

Using Duck's LED kit in my K100RS, the only issue I have had is that the charge indicator light now needs a 3000 RPM rev before going out, due to reduced resistance, is my thinking. The system still charges effectively with or without an LED in that slot once it reaches a high enough rev. You only have to get used to the delayed alternator light. I had zero issues with the turn indicator.

LEDs are much clearer and far brighter than incandescent bulbs. I reckon Duck did his homework on the various kits he sells.

(kbikeparts seattle)

I did the Duck upgrade but I kept the indicators ( tried and they went epileptic) and BMU and charge as I didn't want the distraction. I will say that the LEDS for backlighting are brighter, I had one out hence the reason for the upgrade.
Cheers
Mike
Perth
WA

I replaced my instrument cluster bulbs with LED's from Super Bright LED's.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-4-led-wedge-base/198/#/tab/Specifications

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/#/tab/Specifications

I had to use the single LED model in the high beam, low fuel and neutral indicators to keep from being blinded by them at night.  The four LED models work great as general illumination and warning lights as they are easily seen in daylight. 

I kept the original alternator and turn signal bulbs.  The alternator bulb is needed to keep the charging system working properly, and I didn't want to mess up the operation of the turn signal flasher.

As far as quick response, it took me a bit of time to get used to the green flash I got from the neutral indicator as I shifted 1st to 2nd.

This is a simple fix. Outsmarting BMW K Bike Turn Signals to run LEDs

I installed Duck's LED instrument upgrade, too, and as TWB states, he's done his homework. 
Read 'CAUTIONARY NOTE...' at the bottom of page.

His K's are festooned with LEDs, to great effect. Duck's K-mods options are straightforward. Illuminating, even. Find 'Lighting' in the menu.

Kyle10 wrote:This is a simple fix. Outsmarting BMW K Bike Turn Signals to run LEDs

An easier metod to stop the hyperflash is to disconnect leg #7 at IC U243B
inside the relay.

Kyle10 wrote:This is a simple fix. Outsmarting BMW K Bike Turn Signals to run LEDs

I installed Duck's LED instrument upgrade, too, and as TWB states, he's done his homework. 
Read 'CAUTIONARY NOTE...' at the bottom of page.

His K's are festooned with LEDs, to great effect. Duck's K-mods options are straightforward. Illuminating, even. Find 'Lighting' in the menu.

The turn/hazard flasher outsmart looks like too much hassle to me.  Especially since the bulbs don't draw that much and have such a long life.

I have to add that I did do LED's and found them to be too bright at night with the four LED unit, and I didn't want to have to take a chance on flasher operation with the single LED model.

All these references to Mr. Duck have me wondering (again).  Where did he go?   I found his many contributions to this forum very enlightening.  There must be some sort of back story regarding his disappearance.  Or, is it impolitic to ask?

Oddly enough, I went to LEDs and then removed them, not because of any bad lighting behaviour but because they aren't as bombproof as they're supposed to be. I had three die inside six months. The fuel level lights are still LEDs but that's only because I modified the circuit board to allow me to dim them at night. I don't like fried eyeballs, especially when it's raining.

Like Duck (and Charlie) I also fitted LEDs for improved sidelights. I used short strips and a handful of Cree LEDs for brightness. So far, in about eight months I've had to change two of the Cree LEDs. 

All in all, not a good record.

Dai wrote:Oddly enough, I went to LEDs and then removed them, not because of any bad lighting behaviour but because they aren't as bombproof as they're supposed to be. I had three die inside six months. The fuel level lights are still LEDs but that's only because I modified the circuit board to allow me to dim them at night. I don't like fried eyeballs, especially when it's raining.

Like Duck (and Charlie) I also fitted LEDs for improved sidelights. I used short strips and a handful of Cree LEDs for brightness. So far, in about eight months I've had to change two of the Cree LEDs. 

All in all, not a good record.

How long ago did you install them?  I put them on my bike last spring and rode all summer, about 6 months and 8,500 miles with no problem.  Manufacturing processes are improving all the time.

BTW, anyone know where the Duck went?  He is not on another forum I frequent either.  And recent inquiries into his parts have gone unanswered.

Early last year. I'm clocking 1000-1500 miles a month on the daily commute/weekend runs.