as promised ..here are some pics of "what rocks my sox " at the moment ....its been a long wait !!!
pickup day ....way out in the country .

after a little investigation ...note the corrosion .....my poor baby needs some tlc












so finishes stage one


since ive clocked up a few miles ,,,learning all the time ...

and now saving for the rest of the service things needed doing .

blasted fuel pump died ....i blame myself for useing ethanol laced fuel ....crikey the rubber in the tank just crumbled away ....

oh well!!!! ...all learning experiences


still to come , leaky rear suspension unit ...rear end drive assembly bearings and stuff ,,,fix the speedo ,,,
clean out the air passages (i found a couple of air vent locations through the frame to the tank area that have become blocked with cables and stuff )...because these things run so warm ...should i say hot !!! out here looking to get all those air paths sorted

i wonder why they put the air cleaner and stuff behind the radiator .... i guess in cold climates thats a bonus ... but out here its just another super heated area .. the hair on my legs is already showing burn marks ....
but the journey continues ...shes a great beast

Hi Charlie,

Nice job on the fairing, she looks a clean beast with lots of potential.

Regards

BIG D

You're off to a good start and you can make it whatever you want.

Well done.

thanks guys .....your thoughts really do make a difference ....

i thought to make life easier and decided to paint the wheels and hubs stuff around the disks .....soo much better than corroding aluminium and easy to clean ..... yeah its not an original idea, but to me looks way better , wht do you think ?.....its epoxy paint covered with a couple of coats of clear

Yep, makes it look a bit meaner...

I see the "replacement pin" on your side cover. I broke mine sitting on the bike when the seat was removed.

Hi Charlie,
Nice work you have done on it! As commented on in another thread keep an eye on that centre stand, that version is prone to secret rust and sudden failure resulting in falling over and damaged fairing. The favoured solution is fitting the later stand off a scrapped later bike.
Regards,
K-BIKE

oh ? !!!! maybe i duded myself ....looked again on the compliance badge .....its a 6-86 version ....doh !!!!!

but thanks for the heads up kbike ......ill look at strengthening it before too long .....maybe do a little welding huh ?....and i guess the fish oil etc up the primary suport tubes to protect a little ?!!!

this weekend ....after rebuilding the fuel pump ...(with a substitute from my most favorite reliable vehicle ,a toyota corolla ,,the denso electric parts are fantastic ) i took an extra good look at the ignition parts .......oops didnt check that before ....well properly !!!

i found my plugs were finished off with screw thread about 3 mm in diameter of it ...where it should have been terminated with the ferule that takes it out to 6mm .....crikey the inside of the caps was all corroded from the ignition spark bouncing off the sides ........good greif ...... even the thread of the plug tops was corroding away ... honestly the first 3 mm of thread was gone .

after finding some ngk d7ae plugs ...the hard thing to find was the ferules to fit .........6 places visited and none found ..

at last i found some .....i used some judicious rubbing with steel wool in the plugtops to clean out as best i could ...and some recently acquired "deoxit " to attempt to restore conductivity ..

that seems to work and a snug fitt was acheived ....whats to do ?but .....a test ride ....woohooo

after reading some notes i had found a thread regarding the insulation of the fuel return pipe to the tank ....i aquired some of the stuff and installed it where i thought it would not interfere with the fan and other bits ...basically all but 2 inches (50 mm ) was insulated ...so i was interested to see the affect .....

hot and humid here ...so a bayside cruise was in order ....fish n chips and a paddle by the bay at "wellington point" seemed a winner idea

about an hour of travel through suburbia and the tank was more coolish to the touch .....nice .

performance was definatly enhansed ....idle now was more consistant after warming up ...to hot idling in traffic the idle didnt seem to increase as much as before hand ....looks like im starting to get things "right "

still concerned about tank temperature so will seek to open up the underside of the tank insulation and investigate a few options i have thought of ....involving a ram air collector / splitter at the junction of the radiator and feed to the under through frame air feed .


it looks to me as if the insulation applied to the under tank as an overall insulation solution is prohibiting the air from flowing any further than the electrics box at the back of under the tank ......in sure there should be some flow through there ...will let you know how it goes .....i am taking temps to validate my work ...

this weekend i decided to replace the temp and fuel guages ....and the inner liner of the fairing that houses them,,, mine had been damaged durring the fall and the fairing split incident .

i already had the liner but undrilled for the instruments ,,,,no worries ...out with the hole saw and a nice cut presented them with a snugg fit to the mount...

cool..... i can now monitor the temp as i travel ...(besides having my multimeter and remote temp sensor strapped to the inside of the fairing ....(dont laugh too loud please ...keep it to a dull roar) but i will still need it for some other testing ....hmm where to put it .

i still hadnt researched the tank connection failure properly and after some screwing around and some probing ...found the real main issue fo r a lot of my issues about fuel supply ....the indicator was the fuel guage , as i couldnt get it to operate at all....dang blast ... has that rotten wire come back to haunt me ?

a carefull inspection of the plug and socket (female ) showed that there seemed to be a difference between connector sizes ..... i wonder if there are different connections for different models as the male connector (plug) has 2.1mm pins (approx) and the female socket has what looks like 2.7 .. sockets .....has anybody seen this before ?

i ask because i know the tank has been resprayed and there is a "stayintune" muffler on the bike,,,l these things lead me to think that the old beast had been in a reasonably heavy "landing " at some earlier stage of her life ....(besides the bent front axle etc )

in any case i had thought earlier that i had an issue with the positive cable feed after the fuel pump siezure issue a little while ago .

i could wiggle the male pin on the positive wire and onnection to the pump was intermittent ...my histoy tells me that it was some form of wire high resitance .....but after noting the difference in connector sizes ...things now seem more evident.
i have crushed the socket connections untill i can find a suitable plug socket combination as a replacement .
magically the fuel guage works and the fuel pump is humming away .

whist playing around i stepped the tps back a bit so as to be "non effective " what a joy the beast is now .......even backoff from speed down through gears ...popping seems less of an issue ....i think ima have to go and find some twistys to really test it out .

grin

have fun folks ....good riding to you all !!!!
thanks ajs and everybody ....that was good advice

this week.... what a surprise ..........i have been working long hours ..like a dog ...but finally got round to changing the tires ....WOW ...what a difference

i removed the old dunlop bags and put on some "pirelli sport demons" on the front ...and an odd named but really sticky rear .."shinko" brand "tour master"



no more tramrailing , lumpy vibrations when leaning round a corner and braking slightly , washout seems gone completly ...restoration of controllable turning and leaning , confidence restoring is an understatement .

i nearly have to relearn all that i have absorbed over the last few months of riding ......this definatly feels more like what i learned many years ago.

just have to brake these loverlys in some more.... then off to the hills

did i say i have a big smile on my face.

cheers blokes ...good riding to you all

Well done Charlie.
I recently shod my bike with Michelin Pilot Activ (no "e") front and back. The difference between the old Dunlops was noticed immediately when moving the bike around in the shed! My 60-80kph wobble has also been eliminated with the new tyres.
I'd like to know how your tyres wear.

The bike is looking good!

Hi Charlie. Just noticed in your photos that your fuel cap may be ass about face. I had mine the wrong way, like, I suspect, a few others and it means the drain notch in the fuel cap is blocked.
Takes five minutes to reverse it.
I think many people put it back this way after changing the fuel filter because it looks more 'right' the wrong way round.
See you have fitted a pair of fork gaiters to protect the seals and staunchions. I have just installed some and found that they are pretty airtight on compression. Sometimes you see bikes with 'baggy' gaiters and I think its down to them being blown up everytime the forks are compressed.
I used a wood drill to drill a few 1/4" holes around the top of the gaiters, in under the fairing, to allow the pressure to equalise.
The Honda 500-4 I had in the 70's had tiny holes moulded in the gaiters for the same purpose.
Of course, in those days we couldn't wait to remove them!

Nice looking tires I just installed a new front on my bike and was remined of the last time I had someone install a tire for me. I purchased a tire from our local independent mc dealer and told him to mount and balance the tire for the bike. My Bad for not checking, they charged 75.00 to mount and balance and install the tire. I pitched a fit but it was my fault for not checking first. On this tire I pulled out my old tire tools from when I was in the biz and 40 minutes later had the old tire off , the new one on and balanced. 75.00 indeed!!

thanks guys .....
blakey....will do mate ....i better write this down some where
changed at 165400 .

a little story surrounds the tyre mechanic .....although never advetised all the bike owners know of him , so its a first in first served basis ,...folks start turning up at 7.00 am to get in line although "work " starts at 8.00am
he really is a crackpot ...in a special way ...lots of passion, if you get my drift .
in any case both tyres fitted by 2.30pm (i hapened to be 5th in line and i got there at 7.15am)
all up cost $240 so it was worth the wait ....other prices were around the $300 mark ...not counting fitting charges

comber ...yes i found the breather hole whilst doing research on my fuel pump ...not that long ago and switched the seal around to match up .....and yes the gaiters do make lots of pumping noises when going over speed bumps ...i planned to Punch a couple of holes rather than drill ....im surprised that they are still there actually ...after reading all the mods pages i thought they were recommended for removal with the heat fix mods to the fairing catch cups etc ....oh well i guess i keep my seals a bit longer ...grin

sad news chris ...i really think some of those dealers should advertise what their like ....maybe the forum will sponsor a cheep "pirates flag " so we can identify the reapers huh ?

finally got round to doing the relay mods that i had promised myself /

i have seen the pics of the eastern beaver kit and im impressed ...but thought to do my own thing .

i have made a bracket which mounts on the left hand horn mounting (attached to the fairing suport structure)
this does 2 things ....in case i nee to access the wiring or relays just lift out the side pocket ...cabling follows a suport structure so not much if any movement is to be expected .


i have duplicated the standard headlight wiring with a meaty 3mm copper conductor cable feed ...which in turn supplies high and low beams now .......an additional cable feeds my accessory "driving lamps " both fused before leaving the electrics box .

the way i have wired it is so that the switch cabling is active when the parkers are on , an additional switch on the instument panelwith indicator (had to cut it in to the rubber)
the purpose is to able to turn on the lights when either parker or full running modes are selected...and using the load shed protection durring starts .

the duplication of the main light or switching is by pluging into the old headlight connector as a signal feed . giving me the option of useing that connector as an emergency , in case of socket melting or other such emergencies .

the lights i fitted were ones that came with the bike as i bought it .....nice too

not really a spotlight but more "light fill"

the underside of the fairing proper seems a convienient location ... i mounted them about below the horn cavities

Looks great Charlie! I really like the switch setup you used.

OG

It'll be nice to see her in the flesh this weekend, Charlie! Great job. As for me I'm sticking with the Pirelli Sport Demons front and back despite the tyre tread life out back - the fronts last ages though, for a sticky tyre. I'm whacking a new one on the back this week for the weekend ride. But I'll have a squiz at that Shinko. Chinese, yes, but they've been round a while.

this weekend i attacked the leaking bevel drive output shaft seal .

i had done a change over a few weeks ago , but something went wrong and i had this persistent weep .

oil on tyres and all that sort of stuff .

this time i tried a different aproach and split the bevel box .

which made it much easier to work the seal into place over the actual shaft





nice to see that the gears were in top shape

and after a bit of a clean up and removal of the accumulated gunk in all the little nooks and cranies was ready for re-assembly

the seal now mounted in the output half of the housing squeezed nicely over the drive shaft ,, with a little tapping with a hunk of 2 x 4 on the outer of the housing the bearing located back in its place

i had linished the output shaft

so its back on and after a run up the road .....no leaks ...yahoooo

did a little repairs to the paniers before the big meet.

the inner ridge of the inner halves was badly damaged ....i guess time and bad handling caused this .


i have bent up some 25 mm strip aluminium and riped out the corrogated plastic and replaced it .

a few rivets in the right places , and some vidiflex ...(trade name for round rubber tubing ) was fitted as a seal round the new inner bracket and rest of the inner .


still have to do the elastic inner straps ..and find some new buckles ..but thats for another time .

im chuffed ...no water leaks even durring torential rain on the way home from our meet at urunga .

Hooray for fixing the leak! Now you can go faster around right hand corners!

Good work on the panniers as well.

did a little ride today ...brissy ...boonah ...moroon dam ....rathdownie ....beaudesert ....canungra...tamborine ...yatla...springwood then home ..
about 280 ks ....
lots and lots of bikes on the road ....and beat the rain home .......
and not a drop of oil ....wooohoooo

We went up into the Glasshouse Mtns and Mt Beerburrum for a picnic today and didn't fall victim to the raindrops. In fact, we missed the rain entirely, even though it hung round just offshore and a bit inland for the whole of the day. It's now 8.30pm and it still hasn't hit us. Your ride was a fantastic route! How about that Maroon Dam region? Beautiful! Glad to hear your final drive didn't drop any oil too. Cheers.

Nice work on the FD Charlie! I've got to do the seal on mine and it will be nice to have an expert to consult with. ;-)

OG

Hey Charlie,
What did you end up using as a drift to put the seal in with?
Thanks Mate,
OG

hey og ....seeing i had the crown wheel in my hand and the old seal dug out ...( if you are going to use this technique leave the seal inplace untill extraction has happened .)
fortunatly for me the housing -bearing mooved without heating up....i noticed this while i was inspecting it . so a few taps on the side of the bearing retainer and drive shaft , (2x4 pine ) and the thing mooved more...till i got it out ..

i used some soft wood (pine) to form a platform for the inner face on the ground ...and another larger piece to drift the seal back in place across the whole face . and even that way its kinda tricky as the whole thing wants to disapear through that huge hole .

i spent some time making sure that the outter seal face had a consistent depth in relation to the housing ...as when the crown wheel is out, so are the spacer shims which could act as a depth guage.
in fact i had damaged them slightly with the previous removal and installation.
i ended up sitting the inner part of the seal about 1/2 a mill outside these shims to allow clearance .

reassembly looked as though it was going to be a problem ...because the fit of the main output bearing to the housing was incredibly acurate ,,,pushing the things back together didnt seem to be the appropriate option as i could see that any missalignment was going to be a issue...

i sat the beaing in the housing ...absoutely straight and got about 3mm odd of bearing into the shell ...then using the banging technique against the housing under the crown wheel ... you know that old rule things with weight want to stay in the same place ... i held the housing rather than the crown wheel .

anyhow the bearing went in a few mm each set of raps to the underside of the housing around its circumfrence .

i had lubricated the faces of the seal and output drive with that 80-90 diff oil ...and re-linished the seal area of the shaft before hand ...

and the whole thing slid perfectly into place .

dang ......this morning i had trouble starting the beast ....well not actually starting... but a rough idle ....it seems to be getting worse, over the last few weeks .....quite disconcerting as it sounds like there is something wrong in the bottom end ....but i remember when a plug top fell off, same sort of sound ...
funny enough as the bike warms the effect seems to dissapear .(or not so noticeable ).

well i took the spark leads and plugs all apart to check if it was missing something .
i was thinking lucky i bought some coils off fleabay (they should arrive soon)

sure enough i cant get any measurement between no #1 plug to coil

whilst there i checked secondarys and primarys of the coils ....2.2 on both primarys and 10k on secondarys

im heading out to pick up some bits from our friend twb today , and possibly a cruise up to blakeys place some 100 odd ks away (probably via backroads ..woohoo)

Yep, Charlie I think a great many of these original coils are just at the end of their service life as I have talked with a great many folks who have had to replace them lately.

OG

new cable bought (just a cheepie $6.00) but idle restored.

i must get a whole new set ....but not this week ...

yes indeed og ......i thought to get some whilst still available ....im intending to cook them up a little and then seal them with the right stuff as there comming out of england .

Nice Charlie! Let me know how the cookin goes?

OG

Charlie, I don't know how I missed this thread for so long but just noticed it tonight for the 1st time when I logged on.
I ran into the same problem with my panniers and then p/u a set of almost new ones on craigslist (thanks to Robmac) and the problem was solved.
I have to go back and read the whole thread, talk to you later.
Chris

thanks chris .....for me things are never easy .....but hey! ive learned to live with it ...besides i love the sence of accomplishment ..after even a minor fix ...a famous politician out here ..said "life wasnt meant to be easy "....and at times, that has been so true .....(and im not on my own with that statement im sure..we all have our little demons ....grin )

i have to say that the vidiflex solution i found for the paniers is awesome ...this stuff doesnt stay crushed .....and to date from all the times ii have used it (over a period of 15 years ) i havent seen any distortion of the product that remains after releasing it from its confines .....nice stuff.

Nice work on the bags mate! I'm going to have to start getting mine sorted out shortly and this info is going to be very helpful. Luv the vidiflex solution!!

OG

coils are in ......

a couple of issues though

high volt terminals both have corrosion ,,,well at one end anyhow

just working that through and cleaning them up before taking measurements to see if i bought a goodun



rats !!!! i got "suckered in"
primarys are good 2.2 ohms
secondarys not so good
coil 1-4 12k and going higher ....coil 2-3 open circuit ....hmm

ill have a dig aound in these one day soon ,,,,
i guess i could set up a multivibrator circuit and pump them with some juice and try and see where they are arcing over
might just be a close to terminal weld issue

D**n, Charlie too bad. I would luv to see it if you decide to open them up and do some experimenting.

OG

Corrosion? From a spare part obtained from Ol' Blighty? You're joking. It musta been the long and arduous sea voyage what done that to 'em, mate.

too good twb ....

"off a good running machine " was the sales pitch

i could think of a few 500 cc twins that might have that left that poor old burbler in the gutter ....oh well,,,!!! we live and learn


og ...just you wait and see what destruction we can do here ..... ill get some two pack 3m epoxy (high insulation ) mix and plasticine a mould round those critters after i finish "minning " those cores

i better get a dremmel tool for cutting into that epoxy "carefull" like

btw i borrowed the "work place" dremmel tool today ....and cut a new flat slot groove into that master cylinder brake resevoir retaining screw (brass)that stripped the phillips head socket on top ..found it to "loc-tighted" in ........sweet.... i can now recharge the brakes on the front ..

also allowed me to cut a furrow into the outer of the right hand mirror housing to accomodate the outer shell.... which had a drop event the other day ....the plastic i had glued together durring the repair of the mirrors ..split apart at the first sign of contact with the ground ........hmmm tethers ...yes please


i used my gas powered soldering iron to reweld the thermo plastic housing ...with an old computer fan as donor for the filling material ...seems strong ....pics to come

Oh, I'm lookin forward to this mate! And haven't we all had our experiences with bits from the mythical "good running machine", lol!!

OG

Charlie, first off, I'd have used stronger language. Second off, "a spare computer fan"? what else have you got lying around there. Lol. Hope you get it all together soon. Cheers from NZ ;-)

cheers geord....!!

hey guys ,

i have liked what i have seen of all the bikes ...with that extra black on the cranckcase and head , and after seeing lots of pics now decided to tart the engine covers up a bit , to sort of personalise my lady .



first to lay down the black





then to rub back the paint to expose the metal again





i had an issue with the clear coat after the rub back ....hit it too hard with paint and crinkle resulted .....bugga


still to do the tricky bits on the head proper , but thats all the time i had on saturday ....had an urgent road trip on the sunday






thoughts ?

I like it mate! It's gonna go well with your wheels.

OG

finally got some money together so ordered the top tb rubbers , camchain kit ,waterpump kit , master cylinder (hb) refurbish kit , oh ! and the real keyed panieer locks to the frame and the fork dust boots in case i strip back to "no gaitors" look

Were the panieer locks spendy mate? I'm going to need to go thru my old flea-bay bags soon...

OG

not too bad og ....25 quid (pounds ) for the frame lock and cylinder (each side) ill get mine keyed up to the ignition key , by a local locksmith i know , decided to leave the flappy paddle locks on the top and back as their easy to get at .....just the frame locks are a bugga to get right on a dark and windy night ....upside down and without me specs on ...more like rubics cube .......giggle

that's just what I was thinking mate as I want them keyed to the ignition as I hate having a bunch of keys on the fob to fumble thru in the dark, lol! Looking forward to you doing yours first!

lol ...its not the key thats the issue ....but the lock keyway tends to rotate away from the home position so first you have to find the slot ...then rotate it to where the key can go in properly ...then try to remember which way is locked or unlocked ....releive the presure on the cam before you can actually acheive an unlock ....frigg its magicians territory ..

but all the bmw owners know this .....

Never would have thought there would be so many different ways for a 25+ year old machine to school me, lol!

wow...that was fast

just got my parcel from "the bins " today and i only ordered it friday night ....cam chain kit , water pump kit , lugage locks, new clutch lever and master cylinder refurbish kit

Sweet mate! Keep me posted on how the m/c rebuild goes. I've still got a small weep at the joint so back to diagnosis...

OG

sure will og ....just got busy with the monkey nuts, the old ones werent bad at all ...???

but i put some antisieze on the altenator bolts so should be easyier to do it again sometime .l...dang i hit a couple of tight ones ....about to start her up just now .



no clunks or bumps ....i quess i did good .



well ill be ....i didnt think that so little difference in the rubbers would make such a difference in the noises from the alternator area.....amazing !!



but did notice some oil vapour residue from alll the likely places (well for a beast this old anyhow) sump breather ...slight , starter drive and alternator drive seals ....but did a bit of a clean up while there so should be able to notice anything new ..