....lol yeah its still got 3 or 4 mm of centre groove ... good for another 5000 huh ?

not bad for a <$90.00 tyre methinks

Bags look great mate! How did you remove the old paint?


OG

um here is some work i did last night

just to compare lids

dont forget they were k1 yellow and im wondering what else i can do, to make it um different from every other beast on the road with panieers

i' m playing with the idea of a quarter of the bmw roundell ,,,to kinda match up with the wheel arch ...on the front half of the lid outer ... can these stickers / transfers be obtained ?

i think i like the lighter colour of the paint rather than the black of the plastic

Looking great well done for a great job. Just seeing your photo at the top of this page reminded me I wrote a piece on holding down a K for transport on a ferry or indeed anywhere else that is the best way to avoid any damage. In general with bikes it is best to avoid attaching to the bars regardless of what the transport staff say they are not meant to take those forces. here is the link http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t107-how-to-tie-down-your-bike-on-a-ferry?highlight=ferry+trip
Regards,
K-BIKE

thanks k-bike ....yeah i was wondering about the best way to tie down a fairinged beast ... i think i got it right in the rear end ....but eager to get going ...i fell into bad practices of tieing off to the handle bars ..

cheers mate

Lighter color looks good on your bike charlie.

I really like those bags mate! They would be the perfect size for commuting. I might need to look into getting a pair...
The custom logo might be very cool as well. If' you've got an airbrush kit it wouldn't be hard at all.

I like the colour matched one best.
I have found that with the Ks when tying them down at the front cross over the ties. Put the tie for the left round the fork and tripple clamp of the right fork and vise versa this way you can tie down without the ties touching the fairing. I have tied many Ks like that and all survived the trip and also did the same on a Honda ST1100 recently.
I use a short length of nylon rope with a loop spliced at each end to go round the fork and then a D shackle to attach the tiedown as I have had the hooks on the tiedowns break at the bends where they are bent at more than 90deg.

hmm now theres a thought .... a really pale silver portion of a bmw roundell ...just to take the edge off

i think i have some help ...one of my workmates will help me do some arty stuff with the pic ...might take a while though .....then to make a patern i guess then transfer it..... hmm i can see a weekend of painting really small dots ...giggles

Charlie..if you have the picture try using one of THESE. I had considered someting similar but have yet to build the pantograph.

Yep, the lighter colour suits the bike.

thanks alby...good idea ....im thinking we can print the picture off one of the a3 laser printers, directly at work ...then just a matter of carbon paper and copy through the design .

i guess the play around is just to get an artist impression before work starts ....to show you guys as well .

thanks for your opinions guys ,,,it does help, this old silly bugga

When I worked at Imperial College in London I remember the workshop had a pantograph mill which one could set the ratio so one could to mill a copy bigger or same size or smaller. Impressive bit of kit.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Look up images under ME110 and copy the black and white cross onto them mmmmmm that,ll make you stand out.
Good job Charles

giggles ...im sure it would rt ...

but hey, i dont need a target on the side .....dont we have enough problems dodging motorcyle blind drivers ....lol

guys ...if any body has a set of rt lower fairings ...id be interested ....of corse the price has to be right

thinking of a little cut and remanufacture of the lower fairings to get the line of the bottoms of the fairings to line up along the engine crank cases ....like the rs versions ...along with a little work on the venting the engine area ...of corse new brackets will be needed ...but i recon i can make some

charlie99 wrote:..thinking of a little cut and remanufacture of the lower fairings to get the line of the bottoms of the fairings to line up along the engine crank cases ....like the rs versions ...

Why not use some RS Panels, I much prefer the grille in them to the LT/RT shape??

For what it's worth I prefer the lighter colour on the panniers too!

88KE

hmm a good thought 88 ...but the top part of the fairing is much different to the rs ..as it come back way further and a slightly different angle ...well in my mind it looks that way

i would like to tip the fairing body slightly also ....the angle of the horizontal line from the front to the rear follows a downwood angle rather than a flat angle ....or even upward ...it kinda gives me the impression of a little dory type row boat ....rather than a sleek chetah type look ...i laugh quite often when i think of og's "bismark" that name gets me going ...in a good way ... but he has the rs . a sleeker meaner, sportier design ...i should have got a rs ...but love the air dam of the rt ...behind that screen ...i cant change what i have ...but with a little modification ...ill have something that is unique ..maybe

I've never seen two side by side Charlie, I can see from googling some images what you mean about it coming farther back. What was on my mind was that it would be cheaper and easier to modify a pair of RT/LT fairing inners (the knee panel) than the outer one.

What about offering up an RS side panel aligned with the back edge of the RT upper fairing and seeing if an insert could be made to fill between the front of the RS panel and the Radiator cowling.

.....Ah feck it!...just cut the RT one:geek:

As a matter of interest what did you polish out all the aluminium oxidation with (from your early phot's on back of brake discs, gearbox case etc.) I have loads of that on my machine and it really makes it look neglected.

88KE

just lots of elbow grease and various abrasives 88 ....i used two different wire brush attachments on an electric drill for the most part and followed up with those green dishwashing scratchies ...(which wore out quickly) a stainless steel pot scrubber , some fine wet and dry where needed and after the bulk of the gunge was removed ....all in dishwashing fluid and water only took a while to do ...but all worth it

Be careful Charlie. Remember those ads on TV about dishwashing liquids, "You're soaking in it." You only cleaned up your bike so you could have softer hands.

ok here it is a friend ....well more an aquiantance through the forum here, who we tried to help ....offered me a rear shockie for a verry reasonable price .....it arrived today ...a bit of clean up required ...and probably a new seal kit also .....but looking good

Nice score mate! Is it tough to get rebuild parts in your neck of the woods?

OG

yes og.. it seems after a bit of web searching im finding it hard .. i havent actually talked to anybody about where i might get a rebuild kit yet and after doing a little more research , fox have droped spares and support ...i did find a reference in the states that would do a rebuild ..parts as required for about 75 us ....

i did a partial dissasembly last night ...well spring off any how and a bit of external clean up ,,,so i was able to test the damping action ...which was most effective both in rebound and compression .....but i did notice that familiar smear of oil along the shaft , although it is holding some gas presure i recon that it is only a portion of what it should be and im sure once put in action that that would soon disapate .

i figure that the neoprene o rings have probably dried out hard ...with the inevitable time thing ...i have a purdy good bearings place who sell all those types of seals ,,,i have the rebuild manual ....so ill give it a try ...but it would have been far sweeter to have "the kit"

there is local shock rebuilder close by as well ..so ill visit him and see if hes done one before

fingers crossed



my main impetus has been to replace mine (borrowed from twb with much gratitude ) with some sort of urgency as i have left it a good while between searching and finding something suitable ,,,there have been a few reports of shocks that i thought would be great ...but on reflection were kinda dissapointing to hear of failures ...so when the fox presented it self (rebuildable ) i was all ..oh goodie !!!! yes please !!!

Charlie, if you find a Canadian or US supplier that doesn't know where Oz is, let me know and I'll middle the deal...

Yeah Charlie keep us posted. I've been talking with several top flight suspension shops here for the front end and I could find out about sourcing a rebuild kit for the twin clicker if you can't find anything on your end.

OG

aww gee thanks clubbie and og ...nice thoughts friends ...

ill do some homework around here in the next couple of days....(always unpredictable because of my work demands )



cheers guys !!!

might have found a supplier .....

also visited the shock guy .. he wanted a motza for a rebuild ...nearly $200...

Yeah mate those top flight suspension goodies aren't cheap! Does it have the compression and rebound adjustment?

OG

charlie99 wrote:might have found a supplier .....

also visited the shock guy .. he wanted a motza for a rebuild ...nearly $200...

I bet that was a shock

But it isn't all that bad for a rebuild.

Be careful K Feak, he may rebound with an answer !

Charlie, you remind me of the nick name for the Czech Republic national basketball team..the bouncing Czechs.

after rebuilding the puter ....bl!!!y viruses and 100 restarts and another 6 hours of my life ill never get back .



thought to take a pic of the work on that new rear wheel ...starting to look nice just a few layers of clear to go ....

this is zonenfeile Bike conversion and I think it is the cats whisker and want to make mine like it. A winter project.

Wow, mate that rear looks sexy! Reminds me of the cookie cutters on an old Porsche RS. Nice!! Did you go paint or powder before the clear?


OG

thanks og ....yeah its epoxy paint mate ive left it about a week for the black to harden up befire hitting the "aluminium" colour to the edges ...itll be dried proper i guess tommorrow sometime , but illl leave it a few days before starting to clear coat it ....

yep ajays that is one sexy machine ....and has all the right bits ....mmm-mmm

thanks for the pic

Sounds good mate... I'm really looking forward to seeing those on the bike!

a couple of weeks ago i was able to get a k100 16 valve centre stand and side stand combo ...it had been left out in the weather for some of its life and was really cruddy

yesterday i got it sandblasted all down to bare metal

a bit of a fiddle around with some primer and ready for the first color coat to be applied ...black of corse

Really turned out nice mate! Keep us posted on the install...


OG

hmmmm maybe im doing something wrong ....but the 16 valve centre stand doesnt sit any further to the left than the 8 valve one .....in fact its closer to the tyre than ever before .

i got no hope of fitting an aditional 20 - 30 mm of tyre in there at all







i think i can see a chop job comming up ...

Yeah, mate that's why I asked about the install...I got a loaner second gen. stand that I did a quick dry fit on, and just as you said there was less room than the original 8V one... :-( I will be very interested in the modifications you end up having to make to create clearance!?

OG

i can think to extend the cross bar ...and a little heat treatment on the left leg to extend it out about 20mm i guess og ....

sits nice in the stand carrier of the muffler though

it has all the grease nipples fitted too

but there is a pivot bolt at the top of the stand which is undoable i wonder should i look at extending that part (as well as the widening of the center bar ) to acheive that magic 20mm ...i think im going to hit the foot with the angle grider and get back at least 5mm clearance though .......right about now ....





ahhh thats a little better



ima thinking ill need some help from someone with welding skills ...the tools ...and a widdle bit of pipe the same size

Charlie, Could you try to fit the rear tire without the hub spacer and see if that gives you the room for the centre stand?

Sounds good mate...please keep us posted with pics!?

Just saw that first set. Nice mate! Keep em coming...

Charlie ,
can you contact TWB for advice on this ? , he managed the fit up without too much modification only the left foot needed a fillet buzzed off if I recall .

JR

Melbourne Australia

robmack wrote:Charlie, Could you try to fit the rear tire without the hub spacer and see if that gives you the room for the centre stand?

yep that would work rob .....but im going to fit a k1 rear rim 18 x 4.5 which equates to 160 x 18 or about 30 mm wider than my current tyre and an extra off set of about 15 mm to the centre of the rim ......im guesssing its going to go round right hand corners real nice ...but might be a battle heading round leftys .....grin

JR_K100RS wrote:Charlie ,
can you contact TWB for advice on this ? , he managed the fit up without too much modification only the left foot needed a fillet buzzed off if I recall .

JR

Melbourne Australia

yeah thanks jr ....he doesnt live far from me ,,,so ill head over to check out and take some closer detailed pics

with weight on the bike the clearence is ok ....but forever the pesamist i worry about topping out over a hill and the weight going off ...and metal digging into that tyre, dont sound like a good outcome .

have a look at my mod

yes there is a fillet of sorts heading back from that left side ...and as you can see im getting into it a bit now ....



cheers guys thanks for the thoughts