I should start a build thread, or un-build. I am not using this as a daily commuter so I am going for more of a custom stripped down look. 
Although I want to keep the option of taking passengers. 

It is spring here and I will be riding most weekends, so if I take something apart it will be back together before the weekend. 
Next winter I will be doing a full strip down, re-paint and re-condition of anything that needs it. 


Here are some before shots. 

I was told this is a ex USA police bike but I cant find any signs of anything that would have been mounted to it. It has about 70,000 miles on it. The body is in good condition, there is some rust on the frame and usuall corrosion on all the parts.










Ordered some parts, headlight, brackets, handle bars, mitrrors, indicators new tire. I was still deciding on what sort of speedo to buy but could not wait so I got stuck in and fitted the parts. I made a bracket so I could lower the speedo and mounted it to the existing mount on the clamps. All the fairing was removed and will be sold so someone else can restore a K100.













This is what it was looking like, I also had to touch up the missing paint on the engine to tidy it up a bit. 





More to follow but I am out of time. 
I have installed a Acewell speedo, gear position indicator, relocated the key, tided up the rear shock, replaced the gear position sensor, modified the indicator relay, painted the forks, brakes, polished some bolts, cleaned up the front wheel. 


Here is a preview of the front brake and forks after the restoration.

You're doing a great job with the bike, I haven't seen that colour before, what is it?

that front looks nice ....good work

rapt wrote:I was told this is a ex USA police bike but I cant find any signs of anything that would have been mounted to it.

Post the last seven digits of the VIN and I'll tell you what BMWNA's Great Computer says it started life as...

Post the last seven digits of the VIN and I'll tell you what BMWNA's Great Computer says it started life as...

Ok

The Digits are 0053852

Acewell Speedo install

I drilled in to the top fork clamp and used a self taping screw to mount the speedo. 



The wires were run in to the box that holds all the relays etc so I did not have to install a new box under the tank.
I also installed a Gear position indicator although I am only using it for the start enable function at the moment. 
https://www.k100-forum.com/t8674-aftermarket-gear-indicator-neutral-indicator-board-3-circuit-fuse-block

For the wiring I followed one of the wiring diagrams on here. The only change I made was the alternator light. As there is an led in the acewell it was not drawing enough current to kick the alternator in to life so I installed a standard halogen 3W bulb behind the fuse holder so I can check it if I feel the need. Also the fuel gauge seems to be incompatible with the one on the Acewell, it shows empty apart from when the fuel light usually comes on then it shows full. 

I made a simple bracket to hold the sensor using some Aluminium sheet, The Acelwell sensor was cut to make room for the bolt. 


 


It was then painted mounted along with a small Aluminium L bracket to hold the magnet. 

Nice work.
Your front wheel cleaned up well. Looks like fresh powdercoat job in photo.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-808164285.htm

I noticed this earlier. I have a muffler now but this pair would do the trick. Use the new rt side one un-rivet the end, revolve it 180 and invert the Yoshi label.

Mossy1200 wrote:http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-808164285.htm

I noticed this earlier. I have a muffler now but this pair would do the trick. Use the new rt side one un-rivet the end, revolve it 180 and invert the Yoshi label.

Nice one thanks, I have added to my watch list. 

I want an exhaust that will be mounted flat as I am keeping the passenger pegs, do you think that this will do the job with out the stand hitting it  if I use Malcom's 4-1 combiner?

rapt wrote:

Mossy1200 wrote:http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-808164285.htm

I noticed this earlier. I have a muffler now but this pair would do the trick. Use the new rt side one un-rivet the end, revolve it 180 and invert the Yoshi label.

Nice one thanks, I have added to my watch list. 

I want an exhaust that will be mounted flat as I am keeping the passenger pegs, do you think that this wi.ll do the job with out the stand hitting it  if I use Malcom's 4-1 combiner?

Yes he will do a straight end. Its a 3 bolt end but if you send the damaged front end to me ill take it 2 him and get him to add a flange to suit before he sends it 2 you. Shouldn't add much onto the cost.
Idd get a slight up curve before the flange after your passenger peg.
You may want shorten the end can a bit but that's very easy to do. I shortened mine 40mm.

So it is winter here, I have put a few thousand km on the bike over summer this is how the bike was looking at the end of Autumn





Now it is time to strip it down, replace any leaky seals & worn parts,  re-paint, clean up and recondition any old looking parts. As well as a new seat and some other mods. I will be selling all the old bodywork to restore another deserving K. 


Oil Leaks.

1. Timing case. No gasket here? Just gasket goo?




2. Not 100% sure with this one, crank case gasket?




3. Oil pump, I am pretty sure it is all coming from the seep hole. 
Looks like I need to replace the seals + Impella as I have the old version.

no 2 ...likely to be the rubbers under the bolts ...they compress and go hard ...letting the rubber seal around the crank cover weep   but looks as if the oil is coming from the front of the engine ,,,rather than the crank cover


no 3    careful how you go on that ...you have the nut type ...rather than the bolt type ....the stud that the nut screws onto ...often break off at first undo force

hope that helps

Works a charm where no gasket is specified, or anything like it: Fuji Bond, Three Bond, Honda Bond, Yama Bond, etc. Anything that is Type 1209 for flanges, though other 1200 types work as well.

Thanks for your help, I have sprayed the nut with some wd40 and will let is soak for a few days before removing. 

The first thing I did was built a wooden stand, I have jacked the bike up from the sump and constructed the stand around the jack so the back and front wheels are off the ground. The jack was then removed and put back in the wife's car to keep hep happy.




Every part that is removed will get painted or polished and the years of grease removed. 
Some of the nut heads are rusty as the nickle plating has worn off or been sanded off so I will get these plated again, I priced it up and it is about $30. 

Here are some before and afters. 
The Aluminium is being cleaned up with copper plated wire brushes and WD40. 




My Box of parts is growing..




Rear Diff, 
I am unsure If I am going to paint the rear drive a similar colour to the Aluminium or leave it as it is. 
The Black paint has protected the Aluminium so it is in good condition under that paint.


















My box of bits is now almost full. All the Nuts and bolts have been cleaned up bagged (in the kids lunch angry bird bags) and labelled ready for re-assembly. 




More to follow, but this is how it looks at the moment. I am going back to the garage.....

Could you post the picture for the acewell speed sensor bracket in big format, I am going to use the same one for my bike.

sj2000 wrote:Could you post the picture for the acewell speed sensor bracket in big format, I am going to use the same one for my bike.

Hi, If you click on the images or click enlarge it will enlarge the images. 

The bracket it just a small tab of Aluminium with two holes drilled in it. Then cut half of the sensor mount off so the bolt fits in place with out crushing the sensor. 
The magnet mount is also the same, one hole for the magnet and one for the wheel bolt. make it long enough so you can bend it to be in the correct place to activate the sensor.

I did mine differently from everyone else.
I reversed the disk mount bolts and got stronger rare earth magnets that overcame the magnetising the bolts. I put the magnets in 2 layers of shrink sleeve to stop metal on magnet contact and set then in with non pick silicon. Used 2 magnets not one for more accuracy but might even change to 4.
I then made my bracket to suit the location.

Removed the stand, this is how it came off. Notice one of the bushes has come out, I am sure if I had used it a few more times it would have come out and the bike fallen over. 


At this stage I am not going to re-install the center stand so I have stripped back the side stand and mount, removed the rust and re-painted it. 




The carbs have been removed and cleaned up. 

Moving on to the Tank. Although it looks nice in the green, I have decided to polish it. 
I brought a three stage polishing kit. After doing a couple of trial runs I found that it needed allot more sanding to remove the pitting from when it has been sand blasted. 




After doing some research on polishing, all it needed was a sand down with 320 grit went and dry, followed by 400 grit. Then the three stages of polishing with grey, brown and white bars






Really happy with the result, it looks even better under natural light. The top is also a mirror finish you are just seeing the reflection of the ceiling. Worth the 8 hours of sanding and polishing and $70 worth of materials.

On to the engine.

Nice. I started doing mine then found a historic bogged dent in it so painted was the solution.

Thanks Mossy, I had my fingers crossed there were no dents.


To clean up the engine, I used paint stripper on painted parts (make sure you read the safety info, use in a well ventilated area), WD40 and a wire brush, Wire brush for the drill. 





The engine covers will get a bit more of a touch up when they are removed. 




Back to the oil pump, I got the impeller off with out any issues. There is some minor wear marks in the shaft. 

So from what I have been reading my options are 
1. Clean up the shaft (if possible), buy the old type seal see if it bolts back up with out snapping. 
Thoughts on this option?

2. Order a new shaft etc and seals, over $200 NZD for just the shaft.. Ouch
3. See if I can find a complete second hand pump off a newer bike and do the seals if they need it. 

Been trying to sell mine on trademe but no luck. Gotta find a 2 seat bike or the wife will want on the Agusta. Let me know if any of your mates down south are after one.

some very nice work going on there 

keep at it ...it will look stunning when finished
cheers

Spring is on it's way here so I have been busy in the garage so I have plenty of time to ride this spring and summer. 

The engine cover was black, I cleaned it off using paint stripper, and a steel brush mounted on a drill with some WD40, I don't like the wear mark form the fearing but there is not much I can do about it, unless I get the whole thing sand blasted.







Taped up the parts I don't want shiny, Hit it with 300 grit wet and dry followed by 600 grit then polished with with the buffing wheel using the brown, followed by white stick. Then painted using high temp paint



Ahh that looks better. 

The BMW logo on the other side of the engine got the same treatment. 




I have fitted a new (second hand) oil pump as the old one has the old style impeller so it was less than half the price to get a second hand new style pump from a K1100LT one locally rather than buy a new shaft. The sellter said there was no leaks but I am prepared to buy a new seal for it if needed as it is easy enough to do.
Old pump





Ordered new rubbers on the engine covers as some were cracked and cleaned up the bolts. 




 

The sump was up the sump and re-sprayed in high temperature spray paint.  
I ended up using locktight red high temp gasket maker for the sump, engine covers and oil pump. 
The surfaces were cleaned of the old silicone, de-greased and then I used paint thinners as the final wipe down before applying the gasket maker. 




I spent about 2 hours grinding the parts off the frame that I don't want there any more. Including the center stand lever. I hope I don't regret this part.....
Used a wire brush on a drill to remove the loose paint and rust. Treated the rust with rust kill, primed the metal and painted with Saturn black spray paint, a few coats followed by a light sand with 800 grit wet and dry and another couple of coats. This method is great for avoiding the orange peel look when using spray cans. Another tip is to run the can uner hot water to warm it up to about 30deg if you are in a cold climate like NZ winter. 

before




After



Now it is back on my wooden stand and starting to be re-assembled. 







Things to do;
Re-assemble bike!
Cut rear frame
Make a base for the seat
Buy a Lithium battery
Buy a rear brake light

Ok, so the bike is done. 

Some more progress photos below. 

Engine and frame back together, Header pipes cut to fit the combiner on. 




I found an old Inverter in a scrap metal bin and constructed a Aluminium case out of it to house the Lithium Ion battery. 
Also New brake reservoir for the brake.












Relocated the radiator overflow to the front using a metal drink bottle, drilled a hole in the cap for the hose and a tiny hole so it can breathe. 







More to follow

That bike is coming along nicely! Good job.

I admit I'm not the best at housekeeping when it comes to keeping my bikes clean (I mainly ride them and do the prescribed maintenance) but they look pretty bloody good when they're all cleaned up fresh, almost like new!

The tail hoop was a bit of a pain. 
I could not get the same size tubing so I got slightly over side tubing bent up to match the frame. 

I then cut out a slot for the led strip tail/indicator light that I got from fleabay.






Filled with epoxy to give the light something to sit against and inserted the tail/strip light. 




Testing


Taped on for testing. 




Then I used parts of the smaller section of the old tail hoop to go inside the frame to act as supports and had a friend weld it on. 
Works well and is very bright.

looking good ...unique even !

cheers

Needs to chase backward and forward to be a Xylon or a KITT. 

Looks good. 

Bill

Thanks for the comments. 

For the exhaust I cut the headers just in front of the gear level and fitted the combiner. 





The exhaust seemed a bit long so I cut it down and riveted the end back on. I figured if it was too loud I could always put the longer bit back on. 



I wanted the center of the back wheel visible, I had a spare BMW carbon logo as I used 2 on the tank so I stuck one on here. 
The finish on the exhaust was rough so I sanded it down in one direction with some wet and dry to give it a similar look to the rest of the Aluminium on the bike




I know you think this would be very loud but it is not bad at all. I have friends that have sports bikes that are much louder from factory. 
The exhaust was a LeoVince with removable baffle, I opted to keep the baffle in there to provide a bit more back pressure and to keep the noise down a bit. 


Next up Seat... Then finished photos.

Because the seat is so long and I wanted to keep it a 2 seater, I decided to make a 2 level seat with a cafe racer style hump on the back. 

I got some Aluminium and shaped it to the frame. This stuff is terrible to work with when you don't have a sheet metal bender. I ended up cutting a slot in my work bench and fed the sheet through it while bending it with another bit of wood. Then cut it to shape. 





I ended up cutting the riser part that would have touched the tank off as I didn't want it to rub, figured that the foam from inside the seat would be fine. 


The Aluminium is sitting on small rubber stoppers that rest on the Frame and are riveted to the seat base. 

To bolt the seat down I made an aluminium mount that would also hold the number plate at the back and drilled a hole to match with the cross support.

How to stop the bolts from spinning after the seat is covered..... Well I drilled a hole in a bit of scrap aluminium, used a dremel to get it to a similar shape and then smashed the head of the bolt through it. This was then riveted it on to the seat base so the bolt can't spin when the nut is done up.









Finally got it off the wooden stand and back on it's wheels. Started it up and let it idle for a while and get to temperature, then fixed a leak in the one of the radiator hoses.
Rode it to the local place that does custom seats with a sketch of how I wanted it and he made it happen. 

It was running really rough backfiring and not revving out, I also found a crack in the breather hose that connects back to the air box. After this was repaired with some rubber tape it was running fine. 

Next up some finished shots.

Finally got around to taking some finished photos. 

very shiney

good work ol mate

charlie99 wrote:very shiney

good work ol mate

Thanks, and for the advice earlier

Me likey!

Love the tank!

Nice job!

Well done!
Shining:-)

Cheers

Sorry to mention it, but your petrol tank cap is fitted the wrong way round.
 The water drain is blocked in that position, unless you've modified the cap?

Paul.

Well spotted Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:Sorry to mention it, but your petrol tank cap is fitted the wrong way round.
 The water drain is blocked in that position, unless you've modified the cap?

Paul.

Thanks, I had better spin that around

Great job, the tank looks awesome and the work cleaning the engine was well worth while .