Hello, mu first post!
Have just bought a 91 K100RS with flashing ABS.
Have run through the forum posts (and Toshi site) trying to reset the brain with no luck.
The brain in the bike is an ABO2.5, does this mean its an ABS2?
I cannot find a hydro unit (whatever that is) and the flashing lights flash together not alternate. I have the ABS modules above the rear pegs.
http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html seems to point to ABS1 for me?

So in a nutshell, is ABO2.5 an ABS2 unit which has been fitted, when it should be an ABO1.5 (or for that matter is it possible to swap them around?) 

Appreciate any help

Craig

ABO1.5 is ABS1 on a 8V model.
ABO2.5 is ABS1 on a 16V model.

Have you checked the memory for fault codes?

The lights will flash together untill the selftest is finished (at a speed of 6-7 km/h).

Thanks Inge,
That clears that up.  I have read the blink code and get a 7.
Are the ABS and centre warning lights supposed to flash when ignition on until you are at 7kph or should they be solid until that speed is reached?
Have only tried moving a short distance on it and not at 7 to 8kph.

What bothers me is that I cannot clear the error code. Have tried numerous times and cannot get a steady 10v at pin 2 after attempting to clear.
When I do try to reset by earthing pin 2 and holding the ABS switch down for 10 secs, the lights go solid. Turn the ignition off and disconnect earth - when I turn ignition back on the are both flashing again. (Sorry, should say the centre warning light is solid until I apply the front and rear brakes, then starts flashing in unison with the ABS light)

Great site and forum

I was having intermittent fault codes due to a marginal clearance on a speed sensor and also having problems reseting even after Tosi fixed the brain. I found that if the battery was hooked up to a charger for an hour or so it would bring the voltage up to over 13v for some time (it will settle back to 12.6 after 5-6 hours) While the voltage was high I found the ABS would accept a reset far more readily than at 12.6v. These units are sensitive to voltage and low volts from a failing battery can upset their delicate nature.  A code 7 is what it shows when voltage is low.  Low voltage can show up as a code 7
They are a problem to reset I heard of one guy in USA who tried 305 times before it reset and it's been going great for 3-4 years now.

I would have tried to take the bike for a short trip so it goes through the full
self test before investigating further.
Try some various engine speed and use the brakes a few times.

About the reset, have seen on other forums that many have struggled with a
numerous attempts before succes.

RicK G wrote:  A code 7 is what it shows when voltage is low.

Been smoking again, Rick :smoke:  low voltage is 5, 7 is brain damage :geek: .

No smoking at all. If the brain throws a fault because of low volts I have found it often does show as a 7. My wife's K75 was doing it time and time again and stopped when I put a new battery in it.
It would reset if I turned the ignition off and then back on while travelling and often would not reset by itself and was consistently showing as an internal fault. I do know of one other that has done the same thing and the local bike shop owner who was a BMW tech for 20 years said he has also seen it.

Anyway it should normaly indicate a ABS ECU fault.

It is indicating an ABS controller fault that is caused by low volts. I worded my post very badly and it does look as if the low volt fault is a 7 which isn't right.

Good info, thank you

Will take for a drive this evening and see if it helps.

I do have a fully charged car battery available, would it be a good idea to hook that up to it for the reset, or would it be too much?

Also...a new rear disk was fitted by a bike shop for previous owner, how do you set the sensor distance, may be worth checking front and rear

For the reset itself I don't think it would make a difference unless you have a really bad battery.

The sensor distance you adjust with shims.

Didn't get chance to ride as home too late.
Put the bike back together and should be able to ride this evening.
Reading from battery is 12.22v with ignition off, ignition on is 11.5v, should this be enough to do the reset (if its going to work?)
Did a few more resets but still do not have the steady 10v at pin 2 :|

Just to clarify - if there is a fault, on a sensor for example, I should be able to clear that fault whilst the bike is stationary by earthing out pin 2 and holding the ABS switch in for 10 sec +.  I should then get a steady 10v at pin 2.  If I then ride the bike and the ABS does not stop flashing I should be able to read the blink code from pin 2 and get the sensor 1 or 2 error?

CraigNZ wrote:Reading from battery is 12.22v with ignition off, ignition on is 11.5v,

Hi, in my experience you are way to low, the minimum acceptable voltage for a sound battery is 12.6, below that it starts to degrade and my become unreliable.
Try and give it a slow recharge, until charging voltage reaches 15 volt and let it rest 12 hours, then check, should be 12.75 or more, if under 12.6 search for a new one, earlier than late will die.
With that voltage level the ABS 1 will not work properly.
Hope this helps
Best regards
JAP

12.2v is low enough to start causing ABS problems. I would say that the battery is on the way out.
Put the meter across the battery as you start it and see what the cranking voltage is. If it is below 10.5 then the battery is due to die any moment.
The ABS will only read out 1 error at a time i.e. if a 7 comes up you need to fix that then the next code will come up then you need to fix that.

Thanks Guys,

Am hopeful that it is the battery.  Have got a big battery which is charged, will remove the bike one and hook that up. Cross fingers for a reset !

CraigNZ wrote:Thanks Guys,

Am hopeful that it is the battery.  Have got a big battery which is charged, will remove the bike one and hook that up. Cross fingers for a reset !

Leave the bike battery in and just jump it with the big one.

Its got a 12v (obviously) 19ah battery.  Looks pretty new.

Would that be the correct one?

Giving the car battery a go just now.

Also  ... Seen on the download section that the pin 2 should be put to + first as part of the reset, haven't seen that anywhere else.

Cheers

CraigNZ wrote:Its got a 12v (obviously) 19ah battery.  Looks pretty new.

Would that be the correct one?

Giving the car battery a go just now.

Also  ... Seen on the download section that the pin 2 should be put to + first as part of the reset, haven't seen that anywhere else.

Cheers

Not as far as I know. Never heard of it.

No, haven't seen it anywhere else but is under the section ABS - Resetting the ABS Brain

Not a great technical evening, tried with big battery and still no joy..may be a Toshi job?

Also managed to snap the key in the ignition!  It got stuck and wouldn't budge, tried to gently waggle it and it snapped off...

Time to retire to the bar...  

CraigNZ wrote:Not a great technical evening, tried with big battery and still no joy..may be a Toshi job?

Sorry about the key, you have a bit of a puzzle the next day.
Don't forget what is earlier mentioned that it could be a numerious attempts needed before succes with the reset.

Updates...

Went to do some "resetting" this morning and was not not doing the usual thing, pressing the ABS button didn't make the light go solid with pin 2 grounded.  Last night took the bike battery out and used the car one. No battery connected overnight. Checked the voltage at pin 2 and got 10v constant !   Tried to get a blink code reading and got nothing.
ABS light still blinking so took out for a run, still blinking when I got back (did a bump start down a hill nearby, no joy).

Had to leave for rest of day, got back to it now and got a code error 3.

This must be progress...

Interested to see how you go with code 3. Mine has the same error.

Front sensor.

Yes,  not sure where to start, probably check gap first.  BUT, that fork seal is leaking and quite a bit of oil has got on\around caliper (over time), won't be helping?

What have you done to try and sort yours?

First check the sensor gap. If OK, check the connector for corrosion.
The connector you find under the tank, blue connector housing.
If OK, check the resistance through the sensor, should be ~135 ohms.
Also check the sensor wire for connection to ground, should be open.

Cheers Inge,
OK with the first couple of checks, "sensor to ground should be open" don't understand?  How do I test?

Many thanks

When checking, you should not have any connection to ground.

Set your test meter to resistance, one test pin in the connector to the sensor
the other to the main ground at the frame under the tank.

Thank you..will check out tomorrow.

Don't know how the brain retains its codes, but would disconnecting the battery for a period of time not reset it?

No it will stay stored there till you clear it. Same sort of way that a USB stick keeps the data.

 not a very bright question !
Guess would have been told to disconnect battery in the first place if it was that easy..

The sensor shims, are they only available from BMW?  My front one was way way too close, have set at 20" with a home made one..

After setting the sensor gap yesterday, and trying to reset, I ended getting all sorts of readings from nothing to code 7 again. Then the reset switch on the dash wouldn't make the blinking ABS light go solid with pin 2 grounded. Used another switch which would only make the light go solid if I pressed then released ?
Decided to use the big battery again and after many attempts at resetting in various ways I got the steady 10v at pin 2.
Also the ABS light blinked 5 times then went solid, there was an audible clunk from under the relay tray. Charged the bike battery overnight, fitted this morning and tested, ABS went out just about straight away, tested the Antilock on some gravel and all seems to be working.

Thanks to all for suggestions

Now to get it ready for compliance !