My RAM shock, purchased from Realm Engineering, in the UK, failed on a recent ride. The seal failed, releasing fluid all over the brake, pannier FD etc. I have contacted RAM and they are going to send me out a seal kit.

When I first received the unit, 12 months ago, the black damping adjustment knob was v.tight and I had a lot of difficulty rotating the thing. One thing led to another...I loosened the black knob grub screw, and of course, sproing!! a tiny sping and ball and detent disc flew out. I managed to retrieve all the bits and get it all back together. While the black adj. knob was off, I turned the actual ¼" slotted adjustment shaft, not counting the number of turns in to a stop. So, I turned it out (ACW) 2 turns and then fitted the adjustment knob to give the 13 position damping adjustment.









Just now, I again loosened the grub screw whilst keeping constant downward pressure on the black knob, and turned the slotted adjustment shaft in... counted 2 and a bit turns. I then turned the shaft ACW to its original position. The curious thing to me was that as I screwed the shaft in, it did not actually screw into the body of the shock...the slotted end stayed flush with the top of the black knob. But, it did screw to a stop.

The question for me is...WHERE DO I SET THE ADJUSTMENT SHAFT BEFORE I TIGHTEN THE GRUB SCREW HOLDING THE ADJUSTMENT KNOB??

The 13 positions involve about 7/8 of a full turn of the shaft.

I would say that it is a question for the engineers at realm engineering.

yes agree rick ...send them the same details uli ...im sure they would be proactive with a detailed response

it might have a big impact on shock performance and your resultant break down

good luck mate

Hi Uli,
I can't upload pictures at the moment   so I'll try to describe the damper adjuster on a Spax damper that probably has a similar mechanism.

The adjuster has a threaded end shaft on which is a block with an internal thread and an external locating groove. As the adjuster is turned the block moves across a hole through which flows the damping oil, thereby altering the rate of flow.

As to the setting, failing advice from Realm, I would start at a mid point and if your local Roo population start looking jealous then add some extra damping.

Cheers,
Paul.

Pity I can't show a picture  of the damping adjuster, as I'd made a nice new shiny stainless steel assembly!

Well, today I've tried Google Chrome instead of Internet Explorer and the picture has loaded.

The block to the right is the thing that moves, on the threaded shaft, across the hole to vary the flow of oil.
The cross pin locates in a groove in the back of the mounting nut and, under spring pressure, provides the indexing 'click' ; I modified that nut to have a hexagon head.

So, you should be able to see why the adjusting screw doesn't move inwards or outwards when turned.




Clear as mud?

Paul.

I'm sure Ulli will be appreciative, just that he had an operation on his foot Monday and is probably only just getting around.

Update on the RAM shock syndrome...

Thanks a million for the pictures, SCP. As RT mentioned, I've been disabled for quite a while with my ankle fusion job. It's on the up and up and I am now able to put some weight on it and hobble around without crutches...the end is in sight!! (23rd Dec I get this cast off... but probably won't be on the K or the golf course for some time after.)

Anyway, re: RAM shock...I sent numerous emails and eventually a written/posted LETTER to the organisation to try and evoke a reply from them, re: the black knob adjustment business (see previous posts). The letter caused a response!! Apparently the manager is not a "techo" in this field, and the shocks are made in their machine shop in Bristol, away from their offices in Worcesteshire. The manager advised that he will visit the machine shop and speak with the head sherang machinist bloke and get me the required information asap.

Sure enough, the following week I received a response. They are in the process of making a video of all of the steps required to repair/replace seals, adjustment etc...an A - Z of RAM shock repair. In the meantime, they have sent me out (to my front door in Australia!!) a replacement unit, at no cost!! It arrived this morning!!

So, this is quite a spectacular outcome for me, and I really appreciate REALM's effort to get me back on the road again.

Chomping at the bit to get on the road again.


Rickmeister.

That is good news. Got any plans for breaking this one.
I was talking to a rep from Euclid/Volvo and he was saying they are putting together a new QC team so I mentioned you.

Great to see someone taking notice. Also good to see that you can cast off your cast before santa arrives. A mate had his arm in plaster a few years ago and heat and sweat got to him. Being an enterprising person he used a wire coat hanger to scratch that real itchy spot.....couldnt quite get the right place. He then drilled, very carefully, holes in his plaster to get the right spots. The doctor was confused...43 holes...termites was the response. Por bloke ende infecting the skin and was bandaged for a month. Whatever you do...do not scratch.

great to hear all the good news ulrick

take care mate ...thinking of you

Just blown mine... Oil everywhere...

Don't suppose you still have that seal kit??