Hello to everyone on the forum.  I was just given an 85 K100 RS and before you think how lucky i am, I will add that I don't believe its been ridden since 1999 and has spent a lot of that time outside...

I spent a weekend troubleshooting it with a friend and after changing the oil, the bad gas, and hooking up a new battery, we actually got it started!  
Now I'm in the process of deconstructing so I can build it back up to being a safe, reliable bike.

After taking off the fairing, I decided it wouldn't be going back on again anytime soon since I'll probably have to tinker with the bike frequently before I have it running smoothly and I want easy access to the engine. So I'm taking some inspiration from Cafe bikes and going naked, at least until I have time to fix up the fairing. 

I'm keeping a blog here to track my progress.  http://k100cafe.tumblr.com/

I'm not a mechanic and I've only been riding for about 3 years.  My first and only other bike is a 1979 BMW R65 which has been easy to work on. I'm slightly over my head with this one and will be looking for advice from you all (other than get a new bike!).

welcome aboard

the k bike lends itself very well to no lower fairings on whilst doing all the fixes

personally the upper fairing is a must have thing ...have done far too many miles without one not to appreciate the bubble it creates for the rider .

good luck !

A nice blog there Vashon.  The screen fitted to the RS looks like that of an RT, so looks a little odd.  The K100RS shape is one of the classic all time great looking bikes, period.  And I don't own one, but I do have a RS fairing put aside for a future project. 

You will enjoy the forum experience as you renovate, and a word of advice, keep the R65.  They are a fun bike. 

Cheers, Dave.

G'day Vashon , good battery the PC680 , got one myself in my KRS , as far as the pin holes in the tank go , very common problem with K100's , I sealed mine up with epoxy putty specially made to fix fuel tanks , clean the area where the holes are , enlarge the holes slightly with a drill bit then push the putty firmly into the hole from the outside , did mine 10 years ago , no leaks so far , those metzelers must be like blocks of wood by now , get new tyres before you ride it ! , would have been good to see another RS on the road but I'll settle for a rescued K100 , keep at it

JR

Thanks for the tips on the gas tank, I think that's what I'm going to try.  I may throw some Red Kote over the epoxy as well to offer more protection from the fuel. 

Still battling with my forks!  Think I may just get a used pair from a friend and move on.

Welcome to the Knuthaus. What's the drama with the forks?
If replacing them as an assembly, see if you can source a set of 'S' forks. They're denoted by a small s inscribed in the top cap nut and work a charm; firmer, better damping, but you might need a two-piece front mudguard as they have a built-in fork brace, which you could leave off, and then continue to use your one-piece mudguard, or locate the later type.
Cheers.

I can't get the Allen bolts out of the bottom of the forks. One is spinning freely and on the other it's torqued too tight (I'm worried about stripping it). I need to get a deep 6mm hex socket to reach in there with an electric impact driver which I've been told should work.

When I removed one of the springs it came out in pieces (rusted) and there's something on the inside wall of one of the stanchions, a divot or some kind of build up that prevents me from getting a new spring in or a few remaining pieces of the old one out. Trying to come up with a way to clean it up or sand it down.

Aside from that I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the old fork seals out to replace them.

I've got a new set of progressive springs I'm hoping to get in but buying a new set of forks is starting to sound good!

Welcome to the madhouse, soon someone come and guide you to your room.


To the screw at the bottom of the fork you should use a allen key like this,
it won't slip that easily....

Inge, that is indeed what I need.

- john

VashonK100 wrote:Inge, that is indeed what I need.

- john

Buy a set. They are an invaluable addition to the tool box if you own a K.

Welcome aboard Vashon

Kaptain Holister wrote: Buy a set. They are an invaluable addition to the tool box if you own a K.

A set isn't necessary, as it's only two different screws that uses this kind of
allen key on the whole bike....both on the fork.

VashonK100 wrote:Inge, that is indeed what I need.

- john

Stahlwille 03070006.

The key is a little bit to short/wide....depends on which way you look at it,
so you must grind away some material between the red lines.

Yep, figured that out the hard way. Bought the set, tried it and realized it doesn't fit. So now I'm considering burning the forks and buying a Vespa. But before I do, I may give it one more try.

I found the deep hex is available on Amazon.com for about what I paid for the set.

On my bike I would need two sizes, I think 5 and 6 mm (Triple clamps), but just noted they are 25$ a piece!!!

ReneZ wrote:On my bike I would need two sizes, I think 5 and 6 mm (Triple clamps),

8mm, lower triple only...............and as vashon fork bottom, 6mm.

Happy to report, I didn't buy a scooter!  The forks are on with new springs and seals!  This bike may see the road again after all... at least thats the attitude I need to keep when I hit the next headache... sealing up the pinholes in the gas tank, or will it be the braided brake lines?  Or maybe updating the throttle cable... customizing a new battery mount... recovering the seat... oh, then there's the electrical... [fade out]

- john