Hi,

I had a City Case pannier work itself loose today.  It managed to hang on to the support bar by the lower latch until I stopped.  Luckily no damage to either the case or the bike.

I'd like to install a tether to act as a backup in case this happens again. Or maybe a deployable latch to prevent the pannier from trying to lift upwards.  I hope I can get some good ideas.

My idea for a tether is of a carabiner for clipping to the support bar, and attached to the back of the City Case using a short length of wire cable.  It's simple but I don't know if it is the best.  The idea of the latch would be to have a pin extend from inside the case just below the bar.  When the pannier is attached, I deploy the pin.

An old saying re BMWs in Australia:

"There are two types of BMW panniers; those that have fallen off and those that havent fallen off yet"

It certainly seems to be true of airheads and bricks.

Al

On my old R80GS PD, I fitted cheap ratchet tie-down straps around the pannier and the pannier frame. Nice and secure.

On the K's, I've heard of folks bolting their panniers to the "Z" frame.

My 2 cents worth.

i wonder if something simple like a 32mm single sided conduit (plastic pipe used by electricians ) saddle   could be bolted to the inner side of the case  externaly   so that the clip itself wraps around the z bracket and the panieer support /mount bracket .

the saddle could be fastened with a bolt through it and the case but longer than neccesary ....the exra length might retain a spring , giving some form of remoovablity of the saddle durring deployment ?

just a thought that comes to mind

good save rob

did you line the case mount surfaces with the neoprene type rubber to limit the moovement at all ?

just looking for feedback

If you have the newer round locks then if you lock it with the key then the lock can't jiggle open.

I've got a lot of miles on Ks and the only bag I've lost was a right city case.  BUT it had an old lock that I didn't bother to lock with the key.  I went over some NASTY pavement at about 60 and I figure if it has been locked on then I wouldn't have lost it.  (Been over the same stretch of pavement on many of my other Ks and no issue.)

Of course the other thing is to always make sure the case is properly seated on the Z rack.

"If you have the newer round locks then if you lock it with the key then the lock can't jiggle open."

That's what I reckon too!

Has anyone lost a pannier when it was definitely locked on?

Charlie's rubber pads work very well! After fitting them, there is no movement at all.

Thanks for the replies.

My City Cases are the Type I with the flat latches and covered key holes.  The case broke free over some bumps (like yours Duck) through my own fault of not making sure they were securely fastened to the Z rail.  Haste makes waste.

I like the simplicity of the bolt-through-the-Z-rail idea.  Bolts are cheap.  I wonder about the repeatability of lining up the bolt hole every time.

I haven't used the self-adhesive neoprene, Charlie.  I'll pick up some at the hardware store and put it on.

I also thought about a cam lock mounted inside the case.  A cam lock looks like this:

These locks illustrated are very small and would not interfere with the space inside the case. A slot can be cut into the back of the case right at the Z-rail and the lock installed on an "L" bracket inside towards the upper rear corner.  I would secure the case to the bike as normal and then lock the cam lock from inside.  The cam would rotate through the slot and rest against the lower part of the rail.  This serves two functions -- security against the case accidently jumping off the rail and security against theft.  The biggest problem with this idea is the hole would allow water in during a rainstorm unless I found a way to seal the opening.

I would not be too concerned about water getting in as they were never very water tight from new.
I leave my Givi paniers on the bike now and use liners to carry the contents up to a room. The Givi do attach in a much better way but they do detract from the lines of the bike but when it comes to the lines V loss then lines will suffer every day for me.

RE: Charlie 99, In an attempt to eliminate the excessive rattle/ bumps and squeks on an 88 K100 LT I had a piece of a rubber backed outdoor carpet welcome mat maybe 2' X 3' from home depot I bought for  5 or 6 dollars and cut it into strips and use gorilla glue to apply to side cases, top case and windscreen to top of dash. Any place that you can see wear marks from vibration/movement a strip glued on fills the gap and has eliminated most unwanted rattles. the latches hold firmly without undo force to operate. I also keep the catches locked whenever I am on the road. Next challenge is to eliminate the gap on the side cover halves, the old rubber? seal seems compressed, I have some Dollar Store vinly clothes line that is hollow and appears to be the correct size to fill the groove and it seams supple enough to cushion the two halves, I am thinking to use a few dabs of silicone to gently hold in place.I would prefer this approach to moving the latches and new rivets. So far I have been very happy with my rattle free campaign.

"I have some Dollar Store vinly clothes line that is hollow and appears to be the correct size to fill the groove and it seams supple enough to cushion the two halves, I am thinking to use a few dabs of silicone to gently hold in place."

Good idea Ray.

This thread is very coincidental to me, I too had my rt pannier fall off on some extremely rough pavement a couple of days ago. Only to be run over by the car following me.    I had taken it off to service the bike and I know I didn't lock it back on.  
Now I'm in the market for a serviceable rt side inner section that mounts to the z-frame.
You can bet that I will be installing some kind of a retainer.

Going out on a limb here...

If the pannier is locked to the Z frame, is there a need to have all of this tether-stuff attached to the pannier?

blaKey wrote:Going out on a limb here...

If the pannier is locked to the Z frame, is there a need to have all of this tether-stuff attached to the pannier?

Probably not, after all it stayed on the last 24 yrs. But after all the hassle & expense I'm going to have to go through to get a replacement I think I will just feel better with a little extra insurance knowing I might forget to lock it. 

it apears to me that the lock to the frame is at a diagonal to the z bracket horizontal section  which is a long radius .....what i see happening is that there is slight moovement in the upwards direction of the panieer and eventually off the horizontal section of the frame   i would imagine that inertia of the contents would assist with this whilst travelling , to lift the panieer after a pothole rebound ?  the lock really only assists in holding the panieer to the frame in the in out direction ...and just about all the locks in that position have loads of moovement ...that i have seen anyhow

rse ....i found some similar clothesline stuff....that we use at work ...about the right size for the seal around the panieer  the 5mm version anyhow ...called "vidaflex"       in any case its a silicony hollow tube that does compress but doesnt stay compressed ....for many years ... unlike some versions of plastic which hardens quite quickly (couple of years maybe )

all good ideas and contribution

blaKey wrote:On my old R80GS PD, I fitted cheap ratchet tie-down straps around the pannier and the pannier frame. Nice and secure.

On the K's, I've heard of folks bolting their panniers to the "Z" frame.

My 2 cents worth.

I've done the same with mine. just be sure to carry a screwdriver with you to remove the bolt when necessary.
I've located the bolt in the triangle just above the product serial number/ date stamp.



on the other hand, following a successful shopping spree at my local recycle / re use centre today ,I was able to acquire a new set of panniers ,
 I can almost safely say , " she'll be right mate , just use a bit of duct tape, they'll stay there".
a short anxious trip home in the wind and rain was endured. thinking all the way home , is this going to be one of those suicide moments. luckily not.



good luck with the final result Robmack . I know there are many other owners on here who have experienced the same.

Quote "I also thought about a cam lock mounted inside the case.  A cam lock looks like this:

These locks illustrated are very small and would not interfere with the space inside the case. A slot can be cut into the back of the case right at the Z-rail and the lock installed on an "L" bracket inside towards the upper rear corner.  I would secure the case to the bike as normal and then lock the cam lock from inside.  The cam would rotate through the slot and rest against the lower part of the rail.  This serves two functions -- security against the case accidently jumping off the rail and security against theft.  The biggest problem with this idea is the hole would allow water in during a rainstorm unless I found a way to seal the opening."

nothing wrong with the concept, I have recently installed some on my trailer for the lid and they are easy to use.
 but just beware that these will rust out , as they are not stainless steel.
they do take a bit more effort to install than a single bolt.
 and also the hindrance of additional keys to carry around ,as each lock is independently keyed. or are they , mine have normal keyed barrels.


too right Blakey. 
the sad part was , I contemplated hitching the trailer up for the 15min run down , on the off chance I would need it, and decided not to , how wrong was I .

4 panniers!
Imagine the crap you can carry!

I don't think it'll catch on...

charlie99 wrote:i wonder if something simple like a 32mm single sided conduit (plastic pipe used by electricians ) saddle   could be bolted to the inner side of the case  externaly   so that the clip itself wraps around the z bracket and the panieer support /mount bracket .

the saddle could be fastened with a bolt through it and the case but longer than neccesary ....the exra length might retain a spring , giving some form of remoovablity of the saddle durring deployment ?

just a thought that comes to mind

good save rob

did you line the case mount surfaces with the neoprene type rubber to limit the moovement at all ?

just looking for feedback

OK, I know this thread is a few months old and I have been ravenously devouring the information on this forum at a pretty rapid rate, so my appologies if I'm a day late and dollar short with this, but...
 
...Wondering if substituting heavy duty adhesive-backed Velcro in place of the rubber cushioning in the picture here from Charlie99 would eliminate movement between the pannier and bracket to the extent needed? Content inertia aside.

Or there could be even less if the velcro was located along the top edge of the Z-bracket and inner lip where the top seats eliminating any up-down movement.

In either case I do not believe there would not be anything tougher or anything added to removing them except "breaking" the velcro attachment to remove the pannier as opposed to unbolting or unstrapping.

Am I "under-thinking" this??

mtndv8

My K100LT came with Krauser K2 panniers. 42 litre ones. Got used to them. Then got a K100RT with BMW panniers. So many risks, they leak, bad locks on type 1 and they fall off. Sourced a set of Krauser K2s on line. Cannot beat them.

mtndv8 wrote:

charlie99 wrote:i wonder if something simple like a 32mm single sided conduit (plastic pipe used by electricians ) saddle   could be bolted to the inner side of the case  externaly   so that the clip itself wraps around the z bracket and the panieer support /mount bracket .

the saddle could be fastened with a bolt through it and the case but longer than neccesary ....the exra length might retain a spring , giving some form of remoovablity of the saddle durring deployment ?

just a thought that comes to mind

good save rob

did you line the case mount surfaces with the neoprene type rubber to limit the moovement at all ?

just looking for feedback

OK, I know this thread is a few months old and I have been ravenously devouring the information on this forum at a pretty rapid rate, so my appologies if I'm a day late and dollar short with this, but...
 
...Wondering if substituting heavy duty adhesive-backed Velcro in place of the rubber cushioning in the picture here from Charlie99 would eliminate movement between the pannier and bracket to the extent needed? Content inertia aside.

Or there could be even less if the velcro was located along the top edge of the Z-bracket and inner lip where the top seats eliminating any up-down movement.

In either case I do not believe there would not be anything tougher or anything added to removing them except "breaking" the velcro attachment to remove the pannier as opposed to unbolting or unstrapping.

Am I "under-thinking" this??

mtndv8

a good thought ...worth experimenting with I recon

go for it ............ and send us the feedback ?

charlie99 wrote:

a good thought ...worth experimenting with I recon

go for it ............ and send us the feedback ?

 
Roger that, 99.

OP It's not really a "tether" idea per say and If I'm wrong in thinking this is the correct place and thread to add my pictures of this pannier Velcro mod please let me know and I'll edit them out and start my own and post the link...


So I found that by grabbing a hold of my panniers and jiggling there is play at the top hanger. Somewhere around 3-4mm. Doesn't seem like enough to allow the case to un-attach itself but if over time and use the mating surfaces get really worn I could see it happening. 

Removing the pannier I located the witness marks on the top of the Z bracket where the pannier hangs. From the witness marks I'd say it jiggles around quite a bit...




I have a bunch of 3/4" black Velcro I used for a Corvette mod I did last winter sitting on my shelf and as the Z-bracket is just under 3/4" it fits the project well as it wraps slightly around the minor radius' of the bracket when applied lengthwise...






Not too noticeable at a distance with pannier removed...




Then added the "hooky" Velcro side to the pannier. I had to trim it down to 1/2" with a straight edge and razor knife to fit into the ledge and tried to keep it aligned straight when applying it...





As an aside I was concerned the Velcro would latch together and not let me move the pannier at all when locating it to latch so an old trick I've learned is to lay a thin piece of nylon string (with finger loops tied in the ends) between the Velcro pieces before attaching so I can "saw" the string back and forth to easily unlatch the Velcro. It won't hurt the Velcro at all. I ended up not needing it as I could lift it just enough to slide it forward when I engaged the front latch(s).
 

Close-up of the Velcro connection from the rear...





Panniers are much more secure and don't jiggle at all now. Only time will tell if this is enough to secure the case for the problem stated. However I like it and as it only takes a little longer for me to mount the pannier in place, which I simply attribute to the fact that I'm a newb at doing that.

Installation wise the only other thing I did was to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the pannier and Z-bracket to give the Velcro a good mating surface. I hate when the Velcro overpowers the adhesive!
I'll report back if this doesn't work out over time...

Thanks,
mtndv8

Now that's thinking outside the box! I'm going to follow you lead, as I hate losing panniers on the road   
Thanks for the idea.

Hi folks. I have a problem which seems to be the exact opposite of the OP. I can't get my panniers off. They are the original BMW panniers with one lock on top of the door, one on the side of the door and another which locks the pannier to the frame. When I unlock this last one and release the catch, I can lift the pannier up towards me, but it won't slide in any direction or release itself from the frame. There is a recess into which the rear indicators fit and that seems to be stopping it moving toward the back of the bike. A part of the case, which protrudes out of the back of the box, prevents it sliding toward the front. 

I have wrestled with them for ages and shown it to my mechanic and various other bikers but nobody can figure out how to get them off the bike.

Is there a secret lever or manoeuvre I have to pull or perform to get these things to 'fall off'. One reason I want to get the right hand one off is it is preventing the seat from lifting all the way up to allow access to the stuff under there.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I faced a similar challenge when I first bought my K100RS.  Here's what I did: release the latch on the forward side of the pannier; rotate the pannier out such that the paw of the latch clears the frame/mounting bracket; with the heel of your hand, give the pannier a sharp rap to drive it back toward the rear of the motorcycle.  That procedure freed mine.  Maybe it'll do the same with yours.  Good luck.

Thanks for that info Brickrider, I'll try that when I get home tonight (rain here today, so left bike at home and took jeep instead). I DID try moving it towards the rear but the indicator seems to be preventing it moving that direction as it sits into a recess in the case (the last picture from mtndv8 shows that, if you look long and hard at it), but I'll try giving it a sharp knock rather than a steady pressure and see if that does the trick. I'll let you know how I get on with that.

Have a look here.

Buy some Givis

Just want to say a big "THANKYOU" brickrider, your information was spot on. I can't believe how many folk have tried to help me release them and failed - one simple dunt in the rearward direction and it seemed to unlock a grip of some sort, and they then lifted off without any further effort. I suppose the restriction, if that's what I can call it, is probably designed to prevent them falling off as others on here have encountered?

I would have thanked you earlier, but I was so excited that I was now able to remove them when required, I went for a long run on my brick (I'm sure you'll understand - I'm just a kid at heart)

Anyway, thanks again for your invaluable advice.