Heres a description of what i have been fooling around with during the winter .
last yer my engine developed a rather loud knocking sound,  so i thought i better get it fixed before summer .
Out came the engine ,and soon it was clear where the sound came from .
the fibre washer behind the clutch basket was mising, and the bearing outerrace was clearly turning in the casing.
i ordered new bearings and rubber dampers and offcourse a new spring for the idle gear.
just got it all assembled couple of weeks ago, the noise was gone, only to make room for another one   .i asked about this in another thread an wil have to look at it again.

on the possitive side i also decided to respray the bike , i was a bit tired with the matt black and decided to go for a glossy black , and two coats of clear.

i will try to upload some pictures when im on the computer later , i think its a bit difficult from the phone

k-rider

G'Day K-rider how many coats of black are you using?. I'm presently painting mine metiorite grey, a ford colour, used 2 coats of 1 to 1 followed by 2 coats of 2 to 1 and at present am wetrubbing back before the 3 to 1 coats go on, light wetrub with 1200 and followed by 2000 wetrub. I was wondering because at 1 to 1 it didnt seem to flow but at 2 to 1 it seemed to flow on beautifully, when the weather clears here the 3 to 1 will go on. 3 to 1 is 3 parts thinners to 1 part paint, when its on I'll wetrub it back with 2000grid, then 2 coats of 2pac clear, are doing anything simmilar?

Hi k75cster
 
What i did was to visit the local spraycan pusher , bought 5*400ml. Gloss black, and 5*gasoline proof clearcoat.
since i allready did most of the sanding when i painted it matt black a couple of years ago, i just needed to rub down the surface till it was smooth.
then Aplieed 2coats of black and left it to dry untill next weekend. 
Then 2coats of clear with 15min. Flash time between them.
let it dry untill the weekend, and finally the sanding of the clearcoat , first a1000 grid , then the 2000grid.
and finally i polished it with a cheap poishing compound ,that wasnt quite as good as i hopped , but it will do for now.

k-rider

http://www.motorcykelgalleri.dk/fotoalbum/stylingprojekter/25333-ny_maling


hope the link is working, these are a few pictures of the paint job 

k-rider

k-rider wrote:http://www.motorcykelgalleri.dk/fotoalbum/stylingprojekter/25333-ny_maling


hope the link is working, these are a few pictures of the paint job 

k-rider

Of course i know it is nothing like a professional paintjob , but hey i had fun doing it , and it only cost 1/10of a pro job 

k-rider

I also replaced the input shaft seal in final drive.
i have to admit that i had to use both hands and a lot of heat to loosen first the big nut and secondly the threaded ring that is holding the seal and also is holding the bearing in place .respectively 140nm/for the ring and200nm for the nut

http://www.motorcykelgalleri.dk/fotoalbum/diverse_mc/25334-renovering_af_absorbergear_og_bagtoej_


K-rider

i think its glossy allright 

Do tell me a bit about that fuel cap, like where you got it and how the fitting job was done and any other vital information on converting my current and outdated type of cap.
I sure do like it and the paint as well.
Are you planning a trip to Oz any time soon you can paint my bike when you are here.

RicK G wrote:Do tell me a bit about that fuel cap, like where you got it and how the fitting job was done ther vital information on converting my current and outdated type of cap.
I sure do like it and the paint as well.
Are you planning a trip to Oz any time soon you can paint my bike when you are here.

Rick 
i will make you a deal :if you pay for the tickets ill do  the paint job.   
about the fuel cap,wel i think it shows in the picture how it works, about the fitting: the aluminium flange is attached to another 3mm thin aluminium flange with 6pc. 4mm countersunk allenhead screws.it has a very thin paper like gasket that i gave a thin coat of liquid sealer.
the intermediate flange is attacheched to the tank with only 4countersunk screws about 10mm long, this one uses the original rubber gasket i think, it has a cutout for the waterdrain hole , i also gave this one the liquid sealer and thereby closing the waterdrain hole, since it is no longer needed.
now the part you have been waiting for: where did i get it???
It was on the bike when i bought it  .and i have tried to find one for a friend of mine with no succes, so im sorry cant help you with that

Thanks sounds simple enough.
Looks like I'll have to get the squirrel gun and go hunting for a cap.
I have made a few 10mm risers for the standard fuel cap (like Sidecar Paul made) for the guys here, it sounds like the same sort of adapter.

yep a nice fuel cap ...

is that like the ones on the k1200 units ?

thats a fine paint job shinny enough for most of us I believe good job

K75cster wrote:thats a fine paint job shinny enough for most of us I believe good job

Thanks
i am looking forward to see the result of your own paint project
sounds like you are very thorough ,wich is important when painting a bike .

k-rider

RicK G wrote:Thanks sounds simple enough.
Looks like I'll have to get the squirrel gun and go hunting for a cap.
I have made a few 10mm risers for the standard fuel cap (like Sidecar Paul made) for the guys here, it sounds like the same sort of adapter.

Yep, looks very much like the one sidecar poul posted a picture of, only thinner.
this spacer has two purposes ,to raise the cap a litlle , and because the holes in the cap dosnt fit directly in the tank

ps.whats a squirrelgun 

k-rider

I am a complete idiot with paint but have managed to get my RS quite shiny with spray cans. If I could put a clear coat over the top I would, but if I tried I am sure that it would react with the black and make a mess if I tried.
One thing that I did the other day was to paint the front indicators with a paint that makes them look black when off but they flash amber when working. The finish looks good.
I also bought some black reflective tape from ebay, it is so black that it cannot be seen during the day, but if you take a photo with flash it shows white reflective.

k-rider wrote:

RicK G wrote:Thanks sounds simple enough.
Looks like I'll have to get the squirrel gun and go hunting for a cap.
I have made a few 10mm risers for the standard fuel cap (like Sidecar Paul made) for the guys here, it sounds like the same sort of adapter.

Yep, looks very much like the one sidecar poul posted a picture of, only thinner.
this spacer has two purposes ,to raise the cap a litlle , and because the holes in the cap dosnt fit directly in the tank

ps.whats a squirrelgun 

k-rider

Its a small bore rifle that is used for hunting small game i.e. squirrels and rodents.
I had a hunt around for a cap and the closest I could find is from a Suzuki like a Hayabusa  or any of the larger Suzukis but couldn't fins a locking only a race type.

Its not Quite the same as the K1200 caps they have the lock under the flap.