Preparing to install a new clutch plate and do a valve clearance adjustment I bought these tools from Kenneth Lively (polepenhollow@yahoo.com). I paid $46.50 (included shipping) for all three. He also makes several other tools for various BMWs. I've seen post for him on the site but thought I'd provide an update.

https://2img.net/h/i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u675/d_manley/IMG_0636_zps8bdaa232.jpg

I used flomaster (marker) as clutch centering tool, last time. Result very good

I looked at several other things but $18.50 for an exact match was to good to pass.

nino wrote:I used flomaster (marker) as clutch centering tool, last time. Result very good

I used a 15mm socket and a 2B pencil.
Worked a treat.

A discussion with RT Halo and Mr K at the Robertson pub about the centering tool.
I thought it was only to align the splines so you could get the gearbox back on. As soon as the clutch lever is pulled the friction plate is free (attached to the gearbox spline) and will give itself any minor adjustments needed.

They had had too much beer and just sat there dribbling at the thought of stripping the rear end.

Discuss

rossco

I have actually aligned it by eye, it isn't that critical to just get the gearbox back on.

I'll have you know that the dribble was because I could see over your shoulder, the barmaid winking at me.

As if you could see anything at all;

Have you never savored the bouquet before sipping?.
On a return to the thread, I had a mate turn me up a centering tool out of wood. Hope it works.

have used a broom before....or a cutting thereof , of course.

rossco wrote:

nino wrote:I used flomaster (marker) as clutch centering tool, last time. Result very good

about the centering tool.
I thought it was only to align the splines so you could get the gearbox back on. As soon as the clutch lever is pulled the friction plate is free (attached to the gearbox spline) and will give itself any minor adjustments needed.rossco

Hi Rossco, happy new year.
That's exactly how I think it works, the plate will self center. The alignment tool is intended for a workshop doing the job many times and fast. I use the marker on the tool box.
Best regards
JAP

In my recent repairs I had my dad make these tools:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Tools.jpg

4 bolts are for gearbox assembly (but they were not needed since I could not get the starter off and we had to put gearbox on with little downward twist..) 1 bolt there is for that spring system on the cover of gearbox and one in the middle is the clutch alignment tool - worked for us. Big thing on right is for the main seal.

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/MS_Hammer.jpg

There is a little shoulder on it, so it leaves the seal about 1mm high. Which - I've been told - is the right place for new seals.

There is a little shoulder on it, so it leaves the seal about 1mm high. Which - I've been told - is the right place for new seals.

I understand the latest tool is machined to set the seal at 0.5mm proud of the casing.

Mike

Rick G wrote:I have actually aligned it by eye, it isn't that critical to just get the gearbox back on.

Same here, twice now I've not had to use a clutch arbor tool to centre them. Properly lubed (but not overly) it'll often slip right back where it needs to be. I reckon the trick is in centring the clutch disc as the bolts are being tightened down.

mike d wrote:

I understand the latest tool is machined to set the seal at 0.5mm proud of the casing.

Mike

OK, but I would be suprised if it really is that precise. I think that whatever from 0 - 1,5mm would do, but if you put it all the way to the bottom, it will leak. But thats just my opinion, not a fact. (Bottom is about 3-4mm off the casing and seal blocks (at least partially) one oil channel too - mine was installed like that and it leaked.

The seal I use is a commercialy available Viton seal that is 8mm wide as against 10mm for the OEM. The sealing lip is 2mm futher rearward than OEM and can be put in level and not go anywhere near blocking the return drain hole. I have not had any problems with them providing I use the Viton compound.

I meant that if you hammer seal all the way to the bottom it will be 3-4mm inside the casing and that causes problems. I dont think that any seal would be a problem if installed level or up to 1,5mm out of the casing.

Is there any chance of the clutch hub chewing out the gearbox input shaft spline if it isn't aligned properly?

Apparently that can happen to some R series...

It would be quite difficult to assemble with the clutch plate mis-aligned, unless you beat the gearbox in with a big hammer.
If all is correct the gearbox slides into position.
I use 2 threaded rods about 80 mm long screwed into the bell housing gearbox mounts, all you need then is slide the box on these 2 rods to align the friction plate.
You will of course need to leave the clutch assembly slightly loose for correct alignment and once it's aligned remove the box, tighten the 6 allen head screws, remount the box on the same 2 rods and then complete the assembly.
 

The problem with some of the R series was that some of the engineers did fell asleep when the clutch/gearbox was designed.

The clutch hub don't have full contact along the length of the outer end of the gearbox shaft......and the result is more rapid wear, especially the shaft.

Inge K. wrote:The problem with some of the R series was that some of the engineers did fell asleep when the clutch/gearbox was designed.

The clutch hub don't have full contact along the length of the outer end of the gearbox shaft......and the result is more rapid wear, especially the shaft.

Yup, always bothered me about my R1150RT.
i went and spent the big $$ on a Bruno's clutch that is designed to use the full length of input shaft splines.
being a mechanic and knowing this stuff you think about it when going down a lonely rd way away from home.....