My left indicator works fine but my right one has started flashing like it is on crack! At least twice as fast as the left. Are there separate flasher control units?

It's called "hyperflash."  It's a built-in safety feature of the flasher relay to tell you that one of your turn signal bulbs is bad/going bad. Try cleaning the contacts of the bulbs.  If that doesn't work then get some new 1156 bulbs.

Thanks Duck, I will get on to it now.  Man I love this forum!

You've got a bulb going or gone bad.  1156 bulbs are inexpensive and replacement is simple.   Buy some new lamps and clean the connections.  Problem will be solved.

It also happens when you put the wrong (incorrect resistance) bulb. 
Best regards
JAP

21 watt globes ...flash too slow .....
18 watt ...just about right

Bigsax wrote:Right again!


I had previously (haha, I just misspelled that and was suggested perversely instead, probably rightly so!) swapped out my rear lights and front driving lights with LED's. I had some spare so swapped out an indicator as well. They work, IE light up okay but the resistance must be wrong and set off the hyperflash.

You can disable the hyperflash to run LEDs: 
http://classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ledoemflrelay/ledoemflrelay.htm

duck wrote:

Bigsax wrote:Right again!


I had previously (haha, I just misspelled that and was suggested perversely instead, probably rightly so!) swapped out my rear lights and front driving lights with LED's. I had some spare so swapped out an indicator as well. They work, IE light up okay but the resistance must be wrong and set off the hyperflash.

You can disable the hyperflash to run LEDs: 
http://classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ledoemflrelay/ledoemflrelay.htm

This guy is brilliant! However I suspect he may have too much time on his hands. (not you Duck, I really appreciate the advice)
I will leave the indicators with incandescent bulbs. I only changed them because I had some that I had not used on another project. I only really put leds on the driving lights because I am using a small tractor battery in place of the oem one. I suspect it may have lower amp hours so I wanted to drop the lighting load. 
FYI the tractor battery is the same dimensions but $60 to buy. This is the second I have used. The first lasted two and a half years.

"This guy" is me. I own the domain classickbikes.com.

As far as battery size goes, the only real requirement is that it has enough cranking amps to start the bike.  Once the bike is running, the alternator is what powers the bike's electronics, not the battery. "Extra" volts/amps from the alternator are what keep the battery charged.

For example, my K100 has a smaller battery to save on both weight and cost.  Since I have a 100W high beam and 2 55W driving lights I upgraded from the original 32A alternator to a 50A alternator.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218288

The link above to the Adventure Rider forum thread on a solution to indicator flashing too fast after LED upgrades is interesting. I haven't studied it yet, but it may be a good solution.



PS

After reading that thread more carefully, I don't like the solution of cutting leads on the board. I think there's a better solution for upgrading to LEDs and keeping all the systems functioning correctly. But, I haven't found it yet.

Regards

What I usually do on my bikes is replace the OEM flasher relay with a Kisan SignalMinder SM-6.

This has several advantages:

1 - It's LED "friendly" right out of the box.

2 - The auto-cancel is timed (I have it set to 45 sec) which I prefer to the way the OEM auto-cancel works.  When the brakes are applied (like at a stop  light) it pauses the timing of the auto-cancel.

3 - The turn signal paddles work as on and off switches.  Hit a signal once, it comes on.  Hit it again, it turns off. So, although the regular cancel button works if you want to use it, you don't need to.

duck wrote:What I usually do on my bikes is replace the OEM flasher relay with a Kisan SignalMinder SM-6.

Duck, is this the one?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171234570586?lpid=82

Kyle10 wrote:

duck wrote:What I usually do on my bikes is replace the OEM flasher relay with a Kisan SignalMinder SM-6.

Duck, is this the one?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171234570586?lpid=82

Yes.

Word of caution:  Wrap the aluminum case of it with electrical tape prior to installation.  If, when you're putzing around in the relay box, it accidentally hits the hot starter relay terminal then it will emit magic smoke.  DAMHIK

Thank, Duck. Generally like to keep fireworks displays separate from my bike...

duck wrote:"This guy" is me. I own the domain classickbikes.com.

As far as battery size goes, the only real requirement is that it has enough cranking amps to start the bike.  Once the bike is running, the alternator is what powers the bike's electronics, not the battery. "Extra" volts/amps from the alternator are what keep the battery charged.

For example, my K100 has a smaller battery to save on both weight and cost.  Since I have a 100W high beam and 2 55W driving lights I upgraded from the original 32A alternator to a 50A alternator.

No offence intended Duck.

Interesting about the alternator upgrade. I have a problem that my clock keeps resetting itself. I had assumed that it may be because of a voltage drop at sometime from the battery. As this happens with my car when the battery voltage drops.

I have however recently changed two things. One I now ride with the lights on and two I swapped my instrument cluster with one that had the odometer working. I was standing next to the bike the other day (gazing lovingly at it, probably on Valentines day) when the clock just reset itself, then faded out and did it again. So I guess it is just a faulty clock.

Bigsax, here's a little dodge that may help with your clock.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t4319-clock-repair

Paul.

Thanks Sidecar Paul,

I don't think it will help as the lcd is not missing any segments, it just resets. I will start a new thread and see if anyone has an answer. Probably Duck, he knows everything about these bikes and the electrics.

probably just a dicky loom to instruments cluster pin - socket issue

but wouldn't hurt to go in there and clean up all the metal connects along the way ?

I have had a problem where the feed pins to the clock join the printed circuit strip. They're riveted in place and can become intermittent. Soldering a wire between the pin and circuit gets round the joint.

Paul.

+1, usually caused by galvanic reaction between the two different metals.

A really bad example:

that's been sitting In water inge ...seen all too often in my area of electronics

that's a really good example of a bad un

Yes Charlie...it was to show a really bad example, which I had on the hard disk.

They don't have to look this bad before the connection between the conductive film
and the pins is lost.

I will check, it is a little unlikely for me as we don't see much rain here. In fact has not rained since November. I do not know about the provenance of the replacement cluster though. It could have spent some time in the tropics.

charlie99 wrote:probably just a dicky loom to instruments cluster pin - socket issue

but wouldn't hurt to go in there and clean up all the metal connects along the way ?

Spot on Charlie!

Cleaned all the contacts and no more problems to date. Thanks!!